(Topic ID: 167576)

Batman 66 - Official Club Thread

By TigerLaw

5 years ago


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There are 16856 posts in this topic. You are on page 336 of 338.
#16751 74 days ago

I finally feel comfortable with the minor villians, and have entered the Billionaire club

IMG_20210602_210416737~2 (resized).jpg
#16752 74 days ago

Just read up in the thread. I posted a video about it on post #16695

Quoted from rai:

I’m hopefully getting BM66 in the near future.

Just been reading the rules. Have a question about the minor villain modes. What is the most valuable/important?

It seems like Egg is the least important because it only gives points.

Bookworm seems like the best if you are able to complete a few it’s best to have bonus carry over from ball to ball.

Tut and Hatter both important work together. Not sure what is more important I think Tut (save progress also more points during modes).

Iceman very powerful

Shame good but not as iceman or bookworm.

Do you guys have a specific plan for maximum points?

Does it seem like Egg is too underpowered considering it gives nothing but points where Tut gives two bonus. But it does seem like Egghead is fairly easy to complete.

#16753 73 days ago
Quoted from rai:

I’m hopefully getting BM66 in the near future.
Just been reading the rules. Have a question about the minor villain modes. What is the most valuable/important?
It seems like Egg is the least important because it only gives points.

The standard strategy for points is Bookworm, Mr Freeze and then King Tuts. Don't dismiss Egghead though, it's quite possible to get billions in bonus and carry it over to the next ball. At some point when you have a bunch of multipliers in place and the timer frozen you're going to want to play a frenzy mode combined with a multiball.

#16754 73 days ago

Curious if any other club members have upgraded their Premium's backbox speakers to the Kenwood 1366S. If so, did you also pick up a pinnovators adapter and use an external amp, or was there a decent sound improvement with just replacing the speakers?

Quoted from rai:

I’m hopefully getting BM66 in the near future.
Just been reading the rules. Have a question about the minor villain modes. What is the most valuable/important?
It seems like Egg is the least important because it only gives points.
Bookworm seems like the best if you are able to complete a few it’s best to have bonus carry over from ball to ball.
Tut and Hatter both important work together. Not sure what is more important I think Tut (save progress also more points during modes).
Iceman very powerful
Shame good but not as iceman or bookworm.
Do you guys have a specific plan for maximum points?
Does it seem like Egg is too underpowered considering it gives nothing but points where Tut gives two bonus. But it does seem like Egghead is fairly easy to complete.

Egg modes require very few shots to complete, so sometimes they’re good choices if you’re trying to complete a “season” and light a mini-wizard mode. Otherwise I think you’re right, they don’t have much value.

I think bookworm, freeze, tut tut tut is usually a powerful route to go. Having unlimited timers for a whole game is an insane bonus; makes things like Bat Turn incredibly lucrative.

I like the Shame modes for building up bat gadgets, since it tends to lead to lots of hits on the GADGET standups. It’s really satisfying to go into Villain Escape wizard mode with a bunch of bat gadgets to unload.

I’m not a big-brain strategy guy though, so there’s probably better strategies out there. I will say those mini wizard modes (minor villain completion awards) are a TON of fun though; especially “Holy Multiball.” Crank the volume up for that one, haha.

Edit: also, iirc the Tut mode reward for season 1 is different from the tut modes in season 2/3. The latter add “active channel multipliers.”

#16755 73 days ago

First Tut is save minor villain progress and it’s even retrospective to minor Villians you have already played. (According to Tilt rules). But you need Hatter to replay villains you have started before.

#16756 73 days ago

Don't discount Egghead, especially Season 1. My largest cash out was a little over 17 billion on that mode.

#16757 73 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Don't discount Egghead, especially Season 1. My largest cash out was a little over 17 billion on that mode.

Wow, that's mighty impressive. I must look into this.

#16758 73 days ago
Quoted from JStoltz:

Edit: also, iirc the Tut mode reward for season 1 is different from the tut modes in season 2/3. The latter add “active channel multipliers.”

Quoted from rai:

First Tut is save minor villain progress and it’s even retrospective to minor Villians you have already played. (According to Tilt rules). But you need Hatter to replay villains you have started before.

Actually, all of the Tut modes behave the same; save minor villain progress AND add multipliers. I've had situations where I missed Bookworm, then completed Hatter season 2, then one of the Tuts from season 3, then would go back to Bookworm, where I picked up where I left off in order to complete the seasons for one of the Wizard Modes.

#16759 73 days ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

Actually, all of the Tut modes behave the same; save minor villain progress AND add multipliers. I've had situations where I missed Bookworm, then completed Hatter season 2, then one of the Tuts from season 3, then would go back to Bookworm, where I picked up where I left off in order to complete the seasons for one of the Wizard Modes.

It’s actually very clever how it all fits together and builds on each other.

I did say first Tut but mean the first one you complete not referring to the first season Tut. After you complete any Tut you have the ability to save progress.

#16760 73 days ago
Quoted from rai:

It’s actually very clever how it all fits together and builds on each other.
I did say first Tut but mean the first one you complete not referring to the first season Tut. After you complete any Tut you have the ability to save progress.

Ah, OK. I stand corrected. (I wear orthopedic shoes...)

#16761 73 days ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

Actually, all of the Tut modes behave the same; save minor villain progress AND add multipliers.

Are you sure about that? I was positive that the first one only gave you the minor villain progress and then the subsequent ones gave you a multiplier on whatever was on the main screen.

#16762 73 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Are you sure about that? I was positive that the first one only gave you the minor villain progress and then the subsequent ones gave you a multiplier on whatever was on the main screen.

That's how mine works.

#16763 73 days ago
Quoted from Rum-Z:

That's how mine works.

Interesting. Even the Tilt forum says otherwise. Are you guys running an older version of the code?

From Tilt;

The first Tut completion awards “save minor villain progress” for the rest of the game. This power even works retroactively, so if you made a number of shots toward bookworm on ball 1, then complete Tut on ball 2 and play bookworm again, your ball 1 progress is applied to your second attempt. (Provided you have a way to play the same minor villain again)

Subsequent completions of King Tut award a +1X main channel multiplier (starts at 2X) until the end of your ball. This award multiplies all scoring in the mode that is running on the main channel.

#16764 73 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Interesting. Even the Tilt forum says otherwise. Are you guys running an older version of the code?

I'm sorry, when I wrote "That's how mine works", I meant that I'm agreeing with you. Apologies for not being clear. First Tut saves minor villain progress, and all subsequent Tuts add +1X channel multipliers (starting at 2X as you noted). That makes it very lucrative for me to keep stacking Tuts.

#16765 72 days ago

Yes; the TILT rules are correct. Initially @JStolz mentioned that Tut first season behaved differently from seasons 2 & 3, but rai clarified that he meant the first Tut that was COMPLETED saved other minor's progress, and that subsequent completed Tuts were channel multipliers, which I acknowledged. So Spyderturbo007 and Rum-Z are correct.

Sorry for the confusion.

#16766 72 days ago

For a pure max points approach, I usually go with Bookworm, Freeze, Tut, Mad Hatter, then max out Tut to 5X. Max out all Major Villains with 3x the play field running for a bonkers villain escape. I was hitting 4-5 billion point single spinner shots in the beginning of villain escape. Was able to get a 132 Billion game
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1089811846

#16767 71 days ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

For a pure max points approach, I usually go with Bookworm, Freeze, Tut, Mad Hatter, then max out Tut to 5X. Max out all Major Villains with 3x the play field running for a bonkers villain escape. I was hitting 4-5 billion point single spinner shots in the beginning of villain escape. Was able to get a 132 Billion game
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1089811846

Well, I think you win then.

#16768 71 days ago

Hello - I hope you can help me. I saw in a thread an overview about the villains- there were the major and the minor villains
according to the rules of the game. Does someone remeber this picture?

I looked for it but couldn‘t find it.

Best regards

Ralf

#16769 71 days ago
Quoted from flipper73:

Hello - I hope you can help me. I saw in a thread an overview about the villains- there were the major and the minor villains
according to the rules of the game. Does someone remeber this picture?
I looked for it but couldn‘t find it.
Best regards
Ralf

Is this what you're referring to?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/334#post-6287146

#16770 71 days ago

Perfect - thank you. That was it!

#16771 71 days ago

Nice thunder! That’s perfect I never saw that b4

#16772 70 days ago

hopefully I can join the club from the August build. Two dealers have told me they might get one more than they have fully confirmed. IOW example one has 4 confirmed but another note said 5. But they’re not 110% sure about the 5th.

Hopefully one of them is correct about the extra unit. However they both made clear to me it’s not certain.

I contacted ever dealer and they were all sold out or in one case wanted $10k for the prem.

Used prices are through the roof.

Hopefully Stern can see they still have strong demand and make more.

#16773 69 days ago
Quoted from rai:

hopefully I can join the club from the August build. Two dealers have told me they might get one more than they have fully confirmed. IOW example one has 4 confirmed but another note said 5. But they’re not 110% sure about the 5th.
Hopefully one of them is correct about the extra unit. However they both made clear to me it’s not certain.
I contacted ever dealer and they were all sold out or in one case wanted $10k for the prem.
Used prices are through the roof.
Hopefully Stern can see they still have strong demand and make more.

Fingers crossed for you-- especially after all the deliberating that led to you deciding what machine was next.

Clearly biased, but I think you made the right call. Hope you can get one!

#16774 68 days ago
Quoted from JStoltz:

Fingers crossed for you-- especially after all the deliberating that led to you deciding what machine was next.
Clearly biased, but I think you made the right call. Hope you can get one!

I was slow to warm up to BM66 was almost about to buy it a few times but other pins got in the way.

I really don’t like to rotate my pins so I’m getting very particular before I buy anything new.

#16775 66 days ago

Rai, check automated services in Conn. Check pinball.com they are listing August build for Batman66. Mike is great and if you get on his order list you should have no issues.

#16776 66 days ago
Quoted from JJG8591:

Rai, check automated services in Conn. Check pinball.com they are listing August build for Batman66. Mike is great and if you get on his order list you should have no issues.

Thanks

#16777 64 days ago

Have a friend looking for a B66 Premium or Catwoman in the Denver area...does anyone know a good dealer I could point him to if they are doing a new run as rumored?

#16778 64 days ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

Have a friend looking for a B66 Premium or Catwoman in the Denver area...does anyone know a good dealer I could point him to if they are doing a new run as rumored?

I bought mine from JJ at Gexchange (Game Exchange).

#16779 64 days ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

Have a friend looking for a B66 Premium or Catwoman in the Denver area...does anyone know a good dealer I could point him to if they are doing a new run as rumored?

Game Exchange is your best bet. Last I heard they were all spoken for, but they had the most slots of any distributor I checked with. Maybe they have an extra, or a cancelation.

1 week later
#16780 56 days ago

If I'm coming up on multi-ball, or even better, multi-ball and Bat-turn, I choose Egghead -- those points rocket up pretty quickly.

Quoted from rai:

I’m hopefully getting BM66 in the near future.
Just been reading the rules. Have a question about the minor villain modes. What is the most valuable/important?
It seems like Egg is the least important because it only gives points.
Bookworm seems like the best if you are able to complete a few it’s best to have bonus carry over from ball to ball.
Tut and Hatter both important work together. Not sure what is more important I think Tut (save progress also more points during modes).
Iceman very powerful
Shame good but not as iceman or bookworm.
Do you guys have a specific plan for maximum points?
Does it seem like Egg is too underpowered considering it gives nothing but points where Tut gives two bonus. But it does seem like Egghead is fairly easy to complete.

#16781 55 days ago

so i have a batman 66 premium where the TV lcd on turn table is washed out and almost just pure raster. was curious if anyone has an idea on what I might be able to replace it with? couldn't find a schematic for the video pcb running the lcd. any help us appreciated, thanks.

#16782 55 days ago
Quoted from GoldenOreos:

so i have a batman 66 premium where the TV lcd on turn table is washed out and almost just pure raster. was curious if anyone has an idea on what I might be able to replace it with? couldn't find a schematic for the video pcb running the lcd. any help us appreciated, thanks.

You might wish to check this out:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/319#post-5717911

While I have never had an issue with my VillianVision, I did buy a couple of the $15 replacement screens, just in case.

#16783 55 days ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Right! My crane had got less sensitive, and had pretty much stopped registering up the top left side. So I decided to get to the bottom of it, and give you guys the tip on how to do it ... as most of the BM66 I play, the crane doesn’t work as it should.
Firstly - it is a very simple mechanism.
The way it works -
- one switch wire attaches to the spring via the 1/4 bolt at the top of the spring.
- one wire attaches to the housing that surrounds the spring. The one that is held on with 4x Allen bolts
[quoted image]
Here is the underside of the crane - you can see the wire and the bolt that holds the spring in.
[quoted image]
The way it works is simple.
You hit the ball.
Ball moves spring
Spring touches surrounding bracket
Circuit is completed
Crane hit registers
Simple huh?
Basically the same as how the tilt bob works in every pin. Tilt bob touches the surrounding ring, makes a circuit, tilt is registered.
FIRSTLY!! Before you start working on your crane, move it to the centre. DONT MOVE IT BY HAND. Go into the service menu. Then DIAG - GAME - PEN. This brings up this menu - use the red buttons to move the crane to the centre. Test all the positions while you’re there.
[quoted image]
Try not to move the crane around while working on it! To do these fixes, you only need to remove the 4x Allen bolts and remove the housing. I suggest putting a rag under the crane lest you drop something on your PF.
So, back to the repair. I see a few potential issues that can cause “no hits”
1/ loose switch wires
My bottom one was tight, but top one was a little loose. Crane vibration could very well cause the bolts to loosen over time.
SOLUTION - tighten bolts up tight!
2/ Bad connection.
Metal tarnished on the switch wire tabs, not making good electrical contact.
SOLUTION - remove bolts, get some sandpaper and brighten up the metal on both the wire tab, and the housing itself. Then tighten the bolts up tightly.
[quoted image]
3/ tarnished spring - poor electrical contact
You can see in the photo below, my spring is a little second hand looking. I ran some fine sandpaper around it and brightened it back up. You want good metal-metal contact for this switch to work properly.
[quoted image]
I did all 3 things, and my crane is back to “better than new!”
So simple.
Hopefully that helps some of you guys to make your crane nice and snappy again.
rd

Added over 2 years ago: ** SEE FURTHER POST BELOW **

I started loosing sensitivity on my crane - direct hits were only registering occasionally. Now fixed! Thanks rotordave!

#16784 55 days ago

Does anybody have confirmation from their distributor that August is still the month in which the final build will happen? Last I heard was late August.

#16785 55 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I started loosing sensitivity on my crane

Me too - and this really helped. I was resorting to using Gadgets to complete the shots!

#16786 55 days ago

Anyone have tips for shooting the L ramp. That thing is my nemesis, I can backhand it with some reasonable percentage but from the R flipper its low percentage AND risky because bricks tend to head to the slings. The L flipper can't be adjusted correct? that would maybe help cause few of my shots just peter out before reaching the L ramp switch.

Such a critical shot for the majority of modes

#16787 55 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Anyone have tips for shooting the L ramp. That thing is my nemesis, I can backhand it with some reasonable percentage but from the R flipper its low percentage AND risky because bricks tend to head to the slings. The L flipper can't be adjusted correct? that would maybe help cause few of my shots just peter out before reaching the L ramp switch.
Such a critical shot for the majority of modes

Show a pic of your flippers alignment. Left ramp is pretty easy shot from right flipper on mine but backhanding from the left flipper to left ramp is much harder and can only do it on a good rollout on the flipper.

#16788 54 days ago

There is no way I can backhand the left ramp on my game...

Rob

#16789 51 days ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Show a pic of your flippers alignment. Left ramp is pretty easy shot from right flipper on mine but backhanding from the left flipper to left ramp is much harder and can only do it on a good rollout on the flipper.

Hadn't thought of that at all. My flipper bats (ha!) are aligned above the dots. I know how to adjust them but with my overall inexperience with pinball I'm not clear how that affects the shot accuracy at the L ramp.

Thanks
D

IMG_8448 (resized).JPG
#16790 51 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Hadn't thought of that at all. My flipper bats (ha!) are aligned above the dots. I know how to adjust them but with my overall inexperience with pinball I'm not clear how that affects the shot accuracy at the L ramp.
Thanks
D
[quoted image]

Your flippers arent lined up like mine. The games are designed by the designers to have the flipper placement in a certain spot to match the design of placement of everything on the playfield. Sometimes there very droppy like Ghostbusters but usually they all are similar on Sterns.

20210807_175532 (resized).jpg
#16791 51 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Hadn't thought of that at all. My flipper bats (ha!) are aligned above the dots. I know how to adjust them but with my overall inexperience with pinball I'm not clear how that affects the shot accuracy at the L ramp.
Thanks
D
[quoted image]

Yep, my understanding is that if the tip of the flipper shot a laser beam straight outward, that beam should go straight through those marker holes. Or put differently, the tip of the flipper should line up with the dot.

Gomez talks about this on one of his recent podcast appearances— I think the point he made was that certain designers (maybe Steve Ritchie?) like the upper edge of the flipper to align with the ball guide so that it forms a straight line, so they design for it. But that *doesn’t* mean that’s how you should align flippers on all games. Hence the little marker holes to show you what the designer intended.

#16792 51 days ago

Any word on the May, errrrr, July, errrrr, August builds? I know a bunch of JP's went out this week.

#16793 49 days ago

Should I fit flipper button protectors (thinking about the clear type)? Is BM66 susceptible to decal wear if I don't fit them?

#16794 49 days ago
Quoted from insx:

Should I fit flipper button protectors (thinking about the clear type)? Is BM66 susceptible to decal wear if I don't fit them?

Not any more wear than any other pinball. Id look into some lollipop siderails or maybe some bat fin ones if you wanna protect the cabinet.

#16795 49 days ago
Quoted from GoldenOreos:

so i have a batman 66 premium where the TV lcd on turn table is washed out and almost just pure raster. was curious if anyone has an idea on what I might be able to replace it with? couldn't find a schematic for the video pcb running the lcd. any help us appreciated, thanks.

As mentioned previously I'd inspect the ribbon cable on the LCD screen to see for any obvious tears. I had one that severed the power rendering the display black. A tear elsewhere could probably cause some funky colors. If the node board is fine the display is cheap - might be worth a shot even if the old screen looks fine. Either DisplayTech DT028BTFT or DT028ATFT (original) are a drop in replacement.

Another idea would be to unseat and -reseat the CAT 5 cable going to the node board, or even the ribbon cable itself. If you look at my original photos the black part of the connector pops to the outside of the board that should then let you unseat the ribbon cable and free the LCD screen.

Good luck and let us know your results!

#16796 49 days ago
Quoted from GoodOmens:

As mentioned previously I'd inspect the ribbon cable on the LCD screen to see for any obvious tears. I had one that severed the power rendering the display black. A tear elsewhere could probably cause some funky colors. If the node board is fine the display is cheap - might be worth a shot even if the old screen looks fine. Either DisplayTech DT028BTFT or DT028ATFT (original) are a drop in replacement.
Another idea would be to unseat and -reseat the CAT 5 cable going to the node board, or even the ribbon cable itself. If you look at my original photos the black part of the connector pops to the outside of the board that should then let you unseat the ribbon cable and free the LCD screen.
Good luck and let us know your results!

I ordered a display to try to swap in. the screen that's currently in there works fine, idk if you know about arcade monitors but it looks like the fly back is turned up to high causing raster to fold over colors. that's the only way I know how to describe it. hopefully when the screen arrives it should be a quick swap out.

#16797 49 days ago

Just got word the ‘August’ build had been pushed back to Q4.

#16798 49 days ago
Quoted from JStoltz:

Yep, my understanding is that if the tip of the flipper shot a laser beam straight outward, that beam should go straight through those marker holes. Or put differently, the tip of the flipper should line up with the dot.
Gomez talks about this on one of his recent podcast appearances— I think the point he made was that certain designers (maybe Steve Ritchie?) like the upper edge of the flipper to align with the ball guide so that it forms a straight line, so they design for it. But that *doesn’t* mean that’s how you should align flippers on all games. Hence the little marker holes to show you what the designer intended.

Re-aligned my flippers and so far I think my L ramp percentage is better. Still finding all the shots now with the new flipper position. Thanks for the tips everyone

#16799 49 days ago
Quoted from rai:

Just got word the ‘August’ build had been pushed back to Q4.

Bummer. That is a vague timetable.

#16800 49 days ago
Quoted from gorditas:

Bummer. That is a vague timetable.

I wanted to hear something like it’s going to ship in 2-3 weeks or so. Instead I got sometime in the late fall/winter.

There are 16856 posts in this topic. You are on page 336 of 338.

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