Quoted from amkoepfer:I just had an hour long game! Major villians twice with all escape, minor villians all 3 seasons 3 times. Jist had to hit bat cave for final minor multiball and then what? Wizard mode? 11 billion score!
[quoted image]
Good Stuff!!! Feels good to blow that thing up
Is there an end wizard mode on this? Just wonder what would have happened if i got that last gas attack multi
Quoted from amkoepfer:I just had an hour long game! Major villians twice with all escape, minor villians all 3 seasons 3 times. Jist had to hit bat cave for final minor multiball and then what? Wizard mode? 11 billion score!
[quoted image]
Nothing after all that. No final mode. Not that I'm complaining. It's jam packed. My highest so far was 24 Billion and change. Villain Escape twice. All 3 minor multiballs and played Holy MB twice in that game as well. Had 2 EBs during that run.
Quick question from a new owner: Is it common practice to change the green shooter spring that I believe came stock in my BM66 to a stronger one? It seems really weak.
Do these games (either original or catwoman) have any pooling? What are the playfields like on this? If I bought a new one should I be worried? It seems like nobody has complained about this in regards to batman 66.
Quoted from Doctor6:Do these games (either original or catwoman) have any pooling? What are the playfields like on this? If I bought a new one should I be worried? It seems like nobody has complained about this in regards to batman 66.
Yes, they have it. I just ironed out the blisters/pooling on the 6 slingshot posts this morning of my BM66 which was made in April of 2019. I've seen it on Catwoman editions as well.
Quoted from Rum-Z:Yes, they have it. I just ironed out the blisters/pooling on the 6 slingshot posts this morning of my BM66 which was made in April of 2019. I've seen it on Catwoman editions as well.
Well fuck. Okay thank you.
Quoted from Doctor6:Do these games (either original or catwoman) have any pooling? What are the playfields like on this? If I bought a new one should I be worried? It seems like nobody has complained about this in regards to batman 66.
I’m not interested in playing playfield roulette. Both my Batman and Elvira NIB games got a playfield protector early on. That said, beginning with Elvira there was a noticeable improvement in pooling (probably because there is less clear). Older Batman games are less likely to have pooling issues, but more likely to have playfields with softer wood.
Quoted from jfh:I’m not interested in playing playfield roulette. Both my Batman and Elvira NIB games got a playfield protector early on. That said, beginning with Elvira there was a noticeable improvement in pooling (probably because there is less clear). Older Batman games are less likely to have pooling issues, but more likely to have playfields with softer wood.
Do note a Playfield protector will actually do Nothing for post or pooling issues... I haven’t seen issues personally but I also haven’t played many of the Cat Women models.
Quoted from Yelobird:Do note a Playfield protector will actually do Nothing for post or pooling issues...
True. I probably should have worded the post better.
Quoted from Doctor6:What are the playfields like on this? If I bought a new one should I be worried? It seems like nobody has complained about this in regards to batman 66.
They are the typical low quality that Stern has been producing for years. After seeing early photos of BM66 playfields with Deep dimples, almost crater like, I put a protector on before the first ball hit. It still looks brand new.
Quoted from Rum-Z:Quick question from a new owner: Is it common practice to change the green shooter spring that I believe came stock in my BM66 to a stronger one? It seems really weak.
Yes. Stern put really weak springs on the shooter rod. You can barely get the ball around the orbit. Day 1 I changed mine to orange. Heres a handy list courtesy of Pinball Life...
Spring tension from lowest to highest:
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Gray/Silver (266-5001-14)
Red (10-148-2)
Quoted from Doctor6:Do these games (either original or catwoman) have any pooling? What are the playfields like on this? If I bought a new one should I be worried? It seems like nobody has complained about this in regards to batman 66.
I believe release games where fine so the initial runs where free of pooling.
I have an LE no pooling, no playfield protector and barely any dimples in the playfield, magnet is dimpled to shit but the playfield still looks amazing.
Quoted from thundergod76:Yes. Stern put really weak springs on the shooter rod. You can barely get the ball around the orbit. Day 1 I changed mine to orange. Heres a handy list courtesy of Pinball Life...
Cool! Thanks Thundergod76.
Quoted from thundergod76:Yes. Stern put really weak springs on the shooter rod. You can barely get the ball around the orbit. Day 1 I changed mine to orange. Heres a handy list courtesy of Pinball Life...
Spring tension from lowest to highest:
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Gray/Silver (266-5001-14)
Red (10-148-2)
Where can I order a replacement spring...?
Quoted from JMCFAN:Where can I order a replacement spring...?
I just ordered an orange one from Pinball Life. I also borrowed the orange spring from my Metallica in the meantime and can verify it sends the ball all the way around the loop on the plunge for the super skill shot.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-inner-spring-orange.html
Quoted from Rum-Z:I just ordered an orange one from Pinball Life. I also borrowed the orange spring from my Metallica in the meantime and can verify it sends the ball all the way around the loop on the plunge for the super skill shot.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-inner-spring-orange.html
Thanks!
Wanted to check in with the club and see if anyone has experienced this... I recently noticed that the "Turntable Arrow" RGB LED (the arrow above Batman's head) that leads the way to the turntable targets has lost the color Red. Blue and Green still work fine.
Annotation 2020-06-14 211426 (resized).png
I tried the "Single LED Test" in the service menu, and sure enough, when set to "R", the arrow itself is not lit up. When I proceeded to the "G" test, the arrow lit green, and the arrow lit blue for the "B" test.
Annotation 2020-06-14 211501 (resized).png
Tracing this back, it looks like this arrow is lit by one of the RGB LED's on the "Node board LED left upper Stern SPIKE II" with a SPN of 520-7028-00. I looked at the board, and it's all SMT, so that rules out me being able to fix it on my own right now.
My game is 9 months old, and I'm a bit surprised this single portion of a LED would "go out" so soon. Has anyone else experienced anything similar and are the LED node boards susceptible to failure? If so, what's the general consensus on how to guard against this (have spare boards on hand??...that's an expensive endeavor) or is there someone (outside of Stern) who does node board repair?
I've contacted Stern support to see what my options are and I'll report back here as to progress in case anyone runs into this in the future.
Thanks for any insight (and/or moral support).
Regards,
Whitney
If you purchased the machine brand new and it's only 9 months old, Stern should send you out a new board for free. If you plan to keep your machine for years, keeping spare node boards is probably a good idea. But your LED issue seems to be an isolated one.
Quoted from thundergod76:If you purchased the machine brand new and it's only 9 months old, Stern should send you out a new board for free. If you plan to keep your machine for years, keeping spare node boards is probably a good idea. But your LED issue seems to be an isolated one.
Yes, NIB purchase, so it should be covered. Just waiting to hear back from Chas @ Stern at this point.
This is my first pinball machine (loving it!) and no regrets with how it plays (and looks). Wondering everyone’s preference on replacement pinballs (which ones and where to buy?) and how often to replace them?
Was told I wouldn’t be able to stop with one machine (thought one is enough) but this new TMNT machine would look great next to BM66
Curious on flipper alignment. I’ve noticed my left flipper is a hair below the alignment hole. Is it worth adjusting?
I read someone mention the left flipper should be slightly low to make the orbit easier so don’t want to mess with this if it was intentional.
3D0BF6BD-5313-4D57-ADE9-8A7AEF2C3BE4 (resized).jpegQuoted from GoodOmens:Curious on flipper alignment. I’ve noticed my left flipper is a hair below the alignment hole. Is it worth adjusting?
I read someone mention the left flipper should be slightly low to make the orbit easier so don’t want to mess with this if it was intentional.
[quoted image]
Maybe its just me but flippers on games should be aligned so they are straight with the rail and the same on all games. You don't manipulate the flippers to make shots you practice/learn to aim better. Technically you can raise the left flipper 10 degrees and backhand the left loop all day but thats not how it was designed. Just my opinion.
Quoted from Yelobird:Maybe its just me but flippers on games should be aligned so they are straight with the rail and the same on all games. You don't manipulate the flippers to make shots you practice/learn to aim better. Technically you can raise the left flipper 10 degrees and backhand the left loop all day but thats not how it was designed. Just my opinion.
That's what I was thinking as it's not perfect with the rail.
Unrelated I noticed plunging usually awards points (anywhere from 50 to 100k), anywhere to start checking for what switch is causing it?
Quoted from GoodOmens:That's what I was thinking as it's not perfect with the rail.
Unrelated I noticed plunging usually awards points (anywhere from 50 to 100k), anywhere to start checking for what switch is causing it?
For that I would but the game into All switch test and Lightly hit your hand on the playfield. See which switch is triggering and adjust as needed.
Quoted from Yelobird:Maybe its just me but flippers on games should be aligned so they are straight with the rail and the same on all games. You don't manipulate the flippers to make shots you practice/learn to aim better. Technically you can raise the left flipper 10 degrees and backhand the left loop all day but thats not how it was designed. Just my opinion.
I used to think this (straight with rail always), but it's incorrect. Flippers should be aligned with the alignment holes (center pointed directly at the hole, unless the designer specifies otherwise, ie JP upper flipper). Most of the time, this will align perfectly with the rail, but some designers (George Gomez especially) design for slightly "flopped" flippers. BM66 is one such game. As for left and right being different, that I have never heard. They should both be aligned with the holes. That said...like everything else, it's your game and if it makes you happy a different way, go for it. But if you want to play it as-designed, alignment holes are important. And the tiniest fraction off can make a big difference in some shots.
When I got my BM66 one of the first things I did was align the flippers to the rails, thinking the alignment holes were wrong. It shot like crap. Put them back where they were designed, and all the shots feel great. When people complain about this game being clunky, I often wonder if their flippers are aligned wrong. Both my orbits are perfectly smooth as long as hit cleanly. I can even hit the right over and over super fast and smooth if I get the rhythm right.
Quoted from Jediturtle:I used to think this (straight with rail always), but it's incorrect. Flippers should be aligned with the alignment holes (center pointed directly at the hole, unless the designer specifies otherwise, ie JP upper flipper). Most of the time, this will align perfectly with the rail, but some designers (George Gomez especially) design for slightly "flopped" flippers. BM66 is one such game. As for left and right being different, that I have never heard. They should both be aligned with the holes. That said...like everything else, it's your game and if it makes you happy a different way, go for it. But if you want to play it as-designed, alignment holes are important. And the tiniest fraction off can make a big difference in some shots.
When I got my BM66 one of the first things I did was align the flippers to the rails, thinking the alignment holes were wrong. It shot like crap. Put them back where they were designed, and all the shots feel great. When people complain about this game being clunky, I often wonder if their flippers are aligned wrong. Both my orbits are perfectly smooth as long as hit cleanly. I can even hit the right over and over super fast and smooth if I get the rhythm right.
Strange- my right flipper is perfectly aligned with the hole and seems to be aligned with the rail. My left flipper is "floppy?," not aligned with the hole (maybe a MM or two below the hole), and is not aligned with the rail, ball ever so slightly bounces when it transitions from the rail to the flipper.
I guess I should have taken a better photo that showed the rails.
Am I missing something? When I talk about the alignment to the hole I think I'm looking at the plastic bat tip and not the rubber, so I think I'm looking right.
Quoted from GoodOmens:Strange- my right flipper is perfectly aligned with the hole and seems to be aligned with the rail. My left flipper is "floppy?," not aligned with the hole (maybe a MM or two below the hole), and is not aligned with the rail, ball ever so slightly bounces when it transitions from the rail to the flipper.
I guess I should have taken a better photo that showed the rails.
Am I missing something? When I talk about the alignment to the hole I think I'm looking at the plastic bat tip and not the rubber, so I think I'm looking right.
To clarify, there should be a nice transition from the rail to the flipper, but the flipper will not necessarily follow the same "line" at the rail. If you are getting a hop, try adjusting the rail itself a bit. You should be able to loosen the rail screws, shift it a bit to be even with that end of the flipper, and tighten back down. It might be tough to get perfect, but you should be able to minimize any hop.
As for the alignment, imagine a center line down the middle of the flipper bat. That should point straight at the tiny alignment hole. Batman 66 should have slightly "flopped" flippers...meaning if you put a straight edge on the rail, the flippers would point sightly downwards. Many machines would be perfectly straight from rail to flipper.
Quoted from Jediturtle:To clarify, there should be a nice transition from the rail to the flipper, but the flipper will not necessarily follow the same "line" at the rail. If you are getting a hop, try adjusting the rail itself a bit. You should be able to loosen the rail screws, shift it a bit to be even with that end of the flipper, and tighten back down. It might be tough to get perfect, but you should be able to minimize any hop.
As for the alignment, imagine a center line down the middle of the flipper bat. That should point straight at the tiny alignment hole. Batman 66 should have slightly "flopped" flippers...meaning if you put a straight edge on the rail, the flippers would point sightly downwards. Many machines would be perfectly straight from rail to flipper.
Yup. Thanks for the clarity. I see the droop in the correct flipper now. The other is def off by a hair. Thanks for the in depth info. Pinside is wonderful.
Quoted from JMCFAN:Where can I order a replacement spring...?
Installed Orange....perfect!!
Just posted my 3D flipper toppers for BM66. If interested in purchasing, please PM me.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-3d-flipper-toppers#post-5705760
BM66-1.jpgBM66-2.jpgThanks Mr_Tantrum they look fantastic! I can't believe the detail for people looking you can't tell by the pic but the white disc is 3d and even the little bats are 3d great job! Well recommended
20200619_190205 (resized).jpgThis has probably been answered before. My apologies. I tried a search. My BM66 started recently having the diverted open into the rotisserie at startup. Anybody know what’s causing it?
Busy fitting my speaker lights on me Le to look like the Sle.
Gone red on the rings but soon will have orange to swap out to if I fancy a change.
Bought the Sle speaker plates so I could use the 5.25' speakers which sit lower giving more space above for the lager bat logo.
Really happy how they look.
By any chance does anyone have a decent source for a new rule card, baseball card and plastic cover for the apron? I did a playfield swap earlier this year (Stern was *great* throughout the entire process), but the replacement playfield did not come with replacement apron cards.
Thanks!
Quoted from Rozeks:By any chance does anyone have a decent source for a new rule card, baseball card and plastic cover for the apron? I did a playfield swap earlier this year (Stern was *great* throughout the entire process), but the replacement playfield did not come with replacement apron cards.
Thanks!
I would ask them for yours back if possible, or to replace them. They should accommodate you assuming they didn't tell you to remove yours before you sent it back.
I'm have at least one ball reject from the right ramp on every game on my BM66 and it's getting old. It appears to me that the rejected balls get airborne at the bottom of the ramp and then hit the leading corner of the clear plastic ramp lid (which the CAT standup with the 2 LEDs mounts to).
It seems as if someone just made a 1/4" to 1/2" longer lid that the ball would slide underneath it instead of hitting the corner and bouncing back at me.
My apologies if this has been covered in the last 3 years. Being a new owner I'm unfamiliar with everything discussed over the last 318 pages.
I lifted the lid by putting a couple of washers underneath it thinking that making it higher would be better, and it did help. I'd just like to eliminate the problem all together. I might throw an extra set of washer under it to make it higher yet in the meantime.
Thank you in advance for any help.
Quoted from Rum-Z:I'm have at least one ball reject from the right ramp on every game on my BM66 and it's getting old. It appears to me that the rejected balls get airborne at the bottom of the ramp and then hit the leading corner of the clear plastic ramp lid (which the CAT standup with the 2 LEDs mounts to).
It seems as if someone just made a 1/4" to 1/2" longer lid that the ball would slide underneath it instead of hitting the corner and bouncing back at me.
My apologies if this has been covered in the last 3 years. Being a new owner I'm unfamiliar with everything discussed over the last 318 pages.
I lifted the lid by putting a couple of washers underneath it thinking that making it higher would be better, and it did help. I'd just like to eliminate the problem all together. I might throw an extra set of washer under it to make it higher yet in the meantime.
Thank you in advance for any help.
I’ve never experienced that... is the ramp sitting flush with the play field?
Quoted from airplanequartet:I’ve never experienced that... is the ramp sitting flush with the play field?
Yes, both ramp flaps are nice and as flush with the playfield as can be. I just set it up and waxed it recently. Maybe it will settle down after more plays. Maybe I should reduce flipper power as well.
Quoted from Rum-Z:Yes, both ramp flaps are nice and as flush with the playfield as can be. I just set it up and waxed it recently. Maybe it will settle down after more plays. Maybe I should reduce flipper power as well.
I'm not aware of a flipper power adjustment on BM66. But if you just waxed its probably wicked fast. That could be the issue. What's your pitch at?
Quoted from thundergod76:I'm not aware of a flipper power adjustment on BM66. But if you just waxed its probably wicked fast. That could be the issue. What's your pitch at?
The pitch is currently set at 6.5 degrees.
Quoted from Rum-Z:The pitch is currently set at 6.5 degrees.
Could your ramp be overtightened to the playfield, causing a bumpy transition from the flap to the ramp itself? Not sure if that is possible with the ramp design, but I have seen that on ramps where they screw directly into the playfield from above. Might be something to play with at least. Or on the opposite end of that, could the ramp be loose?
Also, are your blue nubs installed correctly on each side of the ramp? If those are on wrong or tapered the opposite way, maybe they could be creating a bit of a ramp if you hit them on the way to the ramp? Again just a thought. That's a weird one. Mine can be blazing fast, but I've never seen the ball jump, much less reject.
Quoted from Jediturtle:Could your ramp be overtightened to the playfield, causing a bumpy transition from the flap to the ramp itself? Not sure if that is possible with the ramp design, but I have seen that on ramps where they screw directly into the playfield from above. Might be something to play with at least. Or on the opposite end of that, could the ramp be loose?
Also, are your blue nubs installed correctly on each side of the ramp? If those are on wrong or tapered the opposite way, maybe they could be creating a bit of a ramp if you hit them on the way to the ramp? Again just a thought. That's a weird one. Mine can be blazing fast, but I've never seen the ball jump, much less reject.
Thanks for those ideas Jediturtle. I'll take a closer look later today.
BIG thanks to docquest for giving up his LE Topper. Went above & beyond being helpful, even making me a wire harness to make my stand alone projector compatible with the topper.
Smooth transaction, arrived from US in 3 days! (UPS $500 shipping )
There is a Serious amount that goes into this topper.... I was going to take it apart and look to recreate a few.. but with all the work that needs doing, you would have to be Bruce Wayne to afford it!
055C336C-3CD1-47EA-A953-31D8B7445913 (resized).jpeg04A1943D-E2E3-48BF-9DB5-71D87AA08330 (resized).jpeg3A984A94-C1D1-424F-BFEE-5ACA990EBAE0 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinhead1982:BIG thanks to docquest for giving up his LE Topper. Went above & beyond being helpful, even making me a wire harness to make my stand alone projector compatible with the topper.
Smooth transaction, arrived from US in 3 days! (UPS $500 shipping )
There is a Serious amount that goes into this topper.... I was going to take it apart and look to recreate a few.. but with all the work that needs doing, you would have to be Bruce Wayne to afford it! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
WOW, Congrats really amazed #Docquest opted to part it out but your offer Was tempting!! As for breaking it down to replicate Trust me it is a complicated mess!! lol A fun challenge though! And NO, I am NOT making anymore!!!! Just wanted to see if I could do it!!
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