(Topic ID: 167576)

Batman 66 - Official Club Thread


By TigerLaw

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 14,886 posts
  • 557 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by thundergod76
  • Topic is favorited by 217 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 3,200 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_9939 (resized).jpg
20191112_182335.jpg
20191111_134000.jpg
20191112_182335 (resized).jpg
Batman NIB (resized).jpg
batman setup (resized).jpg
bm (resized).JPG
IMG_20191108_154810 (resized).jpg
IMG_4232 (resized).JPG
bitmoji-20180726020815 (resized).png
20191107_000815 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191101_182927 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191101_182831 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191101_182937 (resized).jpg
281E2867-5CB3-40C4-84EC-E3F303FD9D4C (resized).jpeg
DF7C65B3-A8FC-4D7E-9AC6-9D18A716E1F6 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

47 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 14886 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 298.
#1451 2 years ago

Love those Mondo prints! I have Mondo's Frankenstein, The Mummy, The War of the Worlds, Forbidden Planet and The Day the Earth Stood Still matted and framed in my game room.

#1452 2 years ago

Anyone know what scale the Batmobile on the turntable is?

#1453 2 years ago

I tightened a few screws and waxed up the old Batman yesterday and it's holding up just fine. I got lucky, no problems with mine. The amount people are playing it should season up that playfield real good by the time the code is done.

#1454 2 years ago

Did you guys notice in the latest walk through video they picked up and showed the bottom of the batmobile mounted to the pink plastic disc. It didnt look like just two plain screws that our early games have shipped with.

Maybe they have improved this for newer games going out now and there will be less launching cars

IMG_0794 (resized).JPG

#1455 2 years ago

With the new code, the magnet looks to be very active.

Not sure what others think, but I think Mylar around it is needed.

I bought the Iron Man VE magnet Mylar. Put it on the magnet, trimmed the top at the edge and around the magnet.

It's a shame it isn't already installed on the game.

#1456 2 years ago
Quoted from txstargazer3:

Love those Mondo prints! I have Mondo's Frankenstein, The Mummy, The War of the Worlds, Forbidden Planet and The Day the Earth Stood Still matted and framed in my game room.

I'll bet those are awesome - can you post a pic when you get a chance?

16
#1457 2 years ago

Catwoman mod install details for those that want to try it. Much thanks to PiperPinball for getting me started. Couldn't have done it without his help

Catwoman is a Hallmark Christmas ornament- try Ebay
LED is from Model Train Software.com
Get the 1.8MM blue one (or whatever color you want) and select 3volt and then 14" leads

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/flickering-led.html

You'll also need a resistor in 200ohms (although I used 150ohms and it is still working)
I order a lot of wire for mods from Jameco and they also have resistors

http://www.jameco.com/z/CF1-4W201JRC-Resistor-Carbon-Film-200-Ohm-1-4-Watt-5-_690697.html

You'll need some piano wire (or stiff wire of some type)

I order my piano wire from Pinrestore

Get the thin kind (0.047)

http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

Steps:

ADDING THE LED
Put the LED and its associated (very thin) wiring along the Catwomans body
Place the 1.8MM LED directly behind the existing "jewel" she is holding in her right hand
Go along the back of her raised arm, behind her head, down the middle of her back and then down her right leg
Strap tie along the way (I think I used about 5 of them)
Use a black sharpie to "black out" the red lead wire
Use your E6000 adhesive to put a thin bead of E600 along the entire wire length
Let it dry and hour or so
Cut the strap ties EXCEPT the one at her ankle (you cut that one later in order to add the piano wire captive in the same spot BUT leave it for now as all your tugging and moving things might pull the wire away from her ankle and then yank it off her entire back)

HEAT SHRINKING
Slide the appropriate diameter heat shrink tube onto the wire all the way UP TO her ankle
Use your heat gun to shrink and protect this thin wire

PIANO WIRE MOUNTING
Drill a small hole using a 1/16th bit into the base of her head (see pic)
Bend your piano wire so it conforms to the back of her body
Insert the piano wire into the hole in the base of her head, the wire should now fit nicely into her head and bend right at her ankles
Cut the existing strap tie at her ankle and add a new one in the SAME spot but capture the piano wire this time
Wish I had the measurements for what length wire to start with BUT the easiest way is to get the wire bent properly around her then inserted into her head, then make the final rough bend toward the mounting bolt/nut.
Then you can estimate length and cut the wire LONGER than you need by say 1". Fiddle with it until she appears right, straight and her foot is just touching the plastic behind the cat on the ramp.
Finally, make a half loop that will be placed below the nut of the plastic for mounting

ADD RESISTOR
Solder in your 200ohm resistor on the positive leg side of the led feed
Add more shrink tubing and extended wiring to reach your tapping point for power (as needed)
I added about 12" of extra wire just to make sure I had enough to work with once I settled on my exact tap location

FEED WIRE
Feed the finished wiring down the same hole used for the left habitrail switch
When you lift the playfield you'll see that (to the right) are several GI bulbs
I tapped into the green and green/yellow wires below there using quick taps
This LED was either polarity sensitive or maybe I had a bad contact on my quick tap because I had to reverse my taps after install (pain in the butt so you might want to simply touch the end of your bare wires to the feeder wires you will be using to ensure you are getting the LED to light properly)
Clip on your quick taps and slide in your wires
I then used a Scotch mounting square under her foot - I just cut it to size
Holy too many steps Batman - you're done!

amazon.com link »

20170204_200348 (resized).jpg
20170204_200147_Ink_LI (resized).jpg20170204_200245_Ink_LI (resized).jpg20170204_200303_Ink_Ink_LI (resized).jpg20170204_200139 (resized).jpg20170204_200231_Ink_LI (resized).jpg20170204_200311_Ink_LI (resized).jpg

#1458 2 years ago

The Catwoman mod is awesome - great job. I especially like the detail of blacking out the red wire.

For anyone willing to make one for those of us who have absolutely no dexterity or skill to make this mod, I'll be your first customer ...

#1459 2 years ago
Quoted from ngg:

But at least with TWD there seemed to be better, more interesting shots even at first
I really hope Im wrong.....

That wasn't what people were saying on initial release though. People were saying the shot layout on TWD was awful and clunky and not satisfying and in the pops too often and no code could save it...now everyone says the shot layout is awesome for TWD.

#1460 2 years ago

I see in another thread the bat shark repelant went out of the US. Has the real batmobile turned up yet?

#1461 2 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Catwoman mod install details for those that want to try it. Much thanks to PiperPinball for getting me started. Couldn't have done it without his help
Catwoman is a Hallmark Christmas ornament- try Ebay
LED is from Model Train Software.com
Get the 1.8MM blue one (or whatever color you want) and select 3volt and then 14" leads
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/flickering-led.html
You'll also need a resistor in 200ohms (although I used 150ohms and it is still working)
I order a lot of wire for mods from Jameco and they also have resistors
http://www.jameco.com/z/CF1-4W201JRC-Resistor-Carbon-Film-200-Ohm-1-4-Watt-5-_690697.html
You'll need some piano wire (or stiff wire of some type)
I order my piano wire from Pinrestore
Get the thin kind (0.047)
http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
Steps:
ADDING THE LED
Put the LED and its associated (very thin) wiring along the Catwomans body
Place the 1.8MM LED directly behind the existing "jewel" she is holding in her right hand
Go along the back of her raised arm, behind her head, down the middle of her back and then down her right leg
Strap tie along the way (I think I used about 5 of them)
Use a black sharpie to "black out" the red lead wire
Use your E6000 adhesive to put a thin bead of E600 along the entire wire length
Let it dry and hour or so
Cut the strap ties EXCEPT the one at her ankle (you cut that one later in order to add the piano wire captive in the same spot BUT leave it for now as all your tugging and moving things might pull the wire away from her ankle and then yank it off her entire back)
HEAT SHRINKING
Slide the appropriate diameter heat shrink tube onto the wire all the way UP TO her ankle
Use your heat gun to shrink and protect this thin wire
PIANO WIRE MOUNTING
Drill a small hole using a 1/16th bit into the base of her head (see pic)
Bend your piano wire so it conforms to the back of her body
Insert the piano wire into the hole in the base of her head, the wire should now fit nicely into her head and bend right at her ankles
Cut the existing strap tie at her ankle and add a new one in the SAME spot but capture the piano wire this time
Wish I had the measurements for what length wire to start with BUT the easiest way is to get the wire bent properly around her then inserted into her head, then make the final rough bend toward the mounting bolt/nut.
Then you can estimate length and cut the wire LONGER than you need by say 1". Fiddle with it until she appears right, straight and her foot is just touching the plastic behind the cat on the ramp.
Finally, make a half loop that will be placed below the nut of the plastic for mounting
ADD RESISTOR
Solder in your 200ohm resistor on the positive leg side of the led feed
Add more shrink tubing and extended wiring to reach your tapping point for power (as needed)
I added about 12" of extra wire just to make sure I had enough to work with once I settled on my exact tap location
FEED WIRE
Feed the finished wiring down the same hole used for the left habitrail switch
When you lift the playfield you'll see that (to the right) are several GI bulbs
I tapped into the green and green/yellow wires below there using quick taps
This LED was either polarity sensitive or maybe I had a bad contact on my quick tap because I had to reverse my taps after install (pain in the butt so you might want to simply touch the end of your bare wires to the feeder wires you will be using to ensure you are getting the LED to light properly)
Clip on your quick taps and slide in your wires
I then used a Scotch mounting square under her foot - I just cut it to size
Holy too many steps Batman - you're done!
amazon.com link »

Nice writeup i think i might try this on mine since i already have the hallmark ornament.

#1462 2 years ago

I'll pass on this one till somebody with more dexterity and understanding makes one for sale.I'll be customer #2!!!

#1463 2 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I see in another thread the bat shark repelant went out of the US. Has the real batmobile turned up yet?

I'd be surprised if #1 went into the general population. I'd think stern would reserve it for a VIP or charge a premium for it at least. Maybe Lyman gets it, I think someone said he gets a copy of all of his games.

This is the closest gadget to the real batmobile you can get I think. Although it was inflatable, it still looked good enough to fool false face in his episode.

There could be some other batmobile based gadgets out there: bat ray, emergency bat turn mechanism, batmobile ejector seat, batmobile anti theft system, batmobile automatic tire inflation device, remote batcave batcomputer link, batmobile batphone, etc.

20170113_114237 (resized).jpg

#1464 2 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

That wasn't what people were saying on initial release though. People were saying the shot layout on TWD was awful and clunky and not satisfying and in the pops too often and no code could save it...now everyone says the shot layout is awesome for TWD.

Respectfully disagree. I don't think everyone says that the shots are awesome. It still has the annoying issues that existed from day one, but the code has greatly salvaged the game. Everyone talks about what Lyman did, which is only code and rules; he didn't change the geometry or layout.

So credit where due. TWD is awesome *now* because of Lyman. Put any other coder on this game and I strongly suspect it would get repeatedly trashed.

#1465 2 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

That wasn't what people were saying on initial release though. People were saying the shot layout on TWD was awful and clunky and not satisfying and in the pops too often and no code could save it...now everyone says the shot layout is awesome for TWD.

Quoted from pinballcorpse:

Respectfully disagree. I don't think everyone says that the shots are awesome. It still has the annoying issues that existed from day one, but the code has greatly salvaged the game. Everyone talks about what Lyman did, which is only code and rules; he didn't change the geometry or layout.
So credit where due. TWD is awesome *now* because of Lyman. Put any other coder on this game and I strongly suspect it would get repeatedly trashed.

Your both right, I posted this video in TWD thread (it's Lyman talking about all aspects of TWD, specifically code, why he coded certain features the way he did - even mentions due to the design and complaints more than once) which is why I thought it would be worth re-posting here as some of his thought process from TWD will surely flow into BM66, specifically if there is a design/shot issue he can program round like he mentions and did in TWD.

It's an awesome video and well worth watching Lyman play and listening to his ideas behind coding etc

#1466 2 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

I'll bet those are awesome - can you post a pic when you get a chance?

Here are some rough shots of the MONDO posters.

IMG_0750 (resized).JPG

IMG_0753 (resized).JPG

IMG_0752 (resized).JPG

IMG_0754 (resized).JPG

IMG_0755 (resized).JPG

#1467 2 years ago
Quoted from txstargazer3:

Here are some rough shots of the MONDO posters.

That War of the Worlds poster is dope af. As the kids say...

#1468 2 years ago
Quoted from txstargazer3:

Here are some rough shots of the MONDO posters.

That is super cool! Find them on EBay?

#1469 2 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

The Catwoman mod is awesome - great job. I especially like the detail of blacking out the red wire.
For anyone willing to make one for those of us who have absolutely no dexterity or skill to make this mod, I'll be your first customer ...

Im making a few today during the game.

Plus some other cool new Batmods!

#1470 2 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Catwoman mod install details for those that want to try it. Much thanks to PiperPinball for getting me started. Couldn't have done it without his help
Catwoman is a Hallmark Christmas ornament- try Ebay
LED is from Model Train Software.com
Get the 1.8MM blue one (or whatever color you want) and select 3volt and then 14" leads
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/flickering-led.html
You'll also need a resistor in 200ohms (although I used 150ohms and it is still working)
I order a lot of wire for mods from Jameco and they also have resistors
http://www.jameco.com/z/CF1-4W201JRC-Resistor-Carbon-Film-200-Ohm-1-4-Watt-5-_690697.html
You'll need some piano wire (or stiff wire of some type)
I order my piano wire from Pinrestore
Get the thin kind (0.047)
http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html
Steps:
ADDING THE LED
Put the LED and its associated (very thin) wiring along the Catwomans body
Place the 1.8MM LED directly behind the existing "jewel" she is holding in her right hand
Go along the back of her raised arm, behind her head, down the middle of her back and then down her right leg
Strap tie along the way (I think I used about 5 of them)
Use a black sharpie to "black out" the red lead wire
Use your E6000 adhesive to put a thin bead of E600 along the entire wire length
Let it dry and hour or so
Cut the strap ties EXCEPT the one at her ankle (you cut that one later in order to add the piano wire captive in the same spot BUT leave it for now as all your tugging and moving things might pull the wire away from her ankle and then yank it off her entire back)
HEAT SHRINKING
Slide the appropriate diameter heat shrink tube onto the wire all the way UP TO her ankle
Use your heat gun to shrink and protect this thin wire
PIANO WIRE MOUNTING
Drill a small hole using a 1/16th bit into the base of her head (see pic)
Bend your piano wire so it conforms to the back of her body
Insert the piano wire into the hole in the base of her head, the wire should now fit nicely into her head and bend right at her ankles
Cut the existing strap tie at her ankle and add a new one in the SAME spot but capture the piano wire this time
Wish I had the measurements for what length wire to start with BUT the easiest way is to get the wire bent properly around her then inserted into her head, then make the final rough bend toward the mounting bolt/nut.
Then you can estimate length and cut the wire LONGER than you need by say 1". Fiddle with it until she appears right, straight and her foot is just touching the plastic behind the cat on the ramp.
Finally, make a half loop that will be placed below the nut of the plastic for mounting
ADD RESISTOR
Solder in your 200ohm resistor on the positive leg side of the led feed
Add more shrink tubing and extended wiring to reach your tapping point for power (as needed)
I added about 12" of extra wire just to make sure I had enough to work with once I settled on my exact tap location
FEED WIRE
Feed the finished wiring down the same hole used for the left habitrail switch
When you lift the playfield you'll see that (to the right) are several GI bulbs
I tapped into the green and green/yellow wires below there using quick taps
This LED was either polarity sensitive or maybe I had a bad contact on my quick tap because I had to reverse my taps after install (pain in the butt so you might want to simply touch the end of your bare wires to the feeder wires you will be using to ensure you are getting the LED to light properly)
Clip on your quick taps and slide in your wires
I then used a Scotch mounting square under her foot - I just cut it to size
Holy too many steps Batman - you're done!
amazon.com link »

Nice job!

Try this wire from Harbor Freight. Better than piano wire.

IMG_1891 (resized).JPG

#1471 2 years ago

Very nice Mondo posters! Super framing and color combos using double mats. Well done

#1472 2 years ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

Nice job!
Try this wire from Harbor Freight. Better than piano wire

Ordered ... and thanks!

Studio_20170205_182136 (resized).png

#1473 2 years ago

first draft of my seizure warning replacement. Next one will have darker purple. But this is plenty good for now and literally everything beats that seizure warning mumbo jumbo

IMG_0767.JPG

#1474 2 years ago

Should have gone with "HOLY SEIZURE WARNING BATMAN!" under Robin and then some Batman like response under Batman like "Too true Robin, Pinball is not all fun and games it carries serious health warnings old chum!"

#1475 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Should have gone with "HOLY SEIZURE WARNING BATMAN!" under Robin and then some Batman like response under Batman like "Too true Robin, Pinball is not all fun and games it carries serious health warnings old chum!"

That's not a bad idea!

Here are my turntable/ramp lights which I finally got around to. 7 smd led warm white on left side of right ramp. 7 smd led natural white on underside of left ramp. I'm happy with it.

IMG_0768.JPG

IMG_0769.JPG

IMG_0770.JPG

IMG_0771.JPG

IMG_0772.JPG

IMG_0773.JPG

#1476 2 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

That's not a bad idea!

Why thank you

Quoted from ATLpb:

Here are my turntable/ramp lights which I finally got around to. 7 smd led warm white on left side of right ramp. 7 smd led natural white on underside of left ramp. I'm happy with it.

Very nice, massive improvement hopefully I can do something similar with my LE but I plan to laser cut something into both my ramps.

#1477 2 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Ordered ... and thanks!

I made another Catwomen mod (and some others) this afternoon during the game. (This Catwomen is for Mike in San Diego). Planning to make more this week.

IMG_1958 (resized).JPG

IMG_1961 (resized).JPG

IMG_1960 (resized).JPG

IMG_1962 (resized).JPG

IMG_1963 (resized).JPG

IMG_1969 (resized).JPG

IMG_1970 (resized).JPG

IMG_1973 (resized).JPG

IMG_1975 (resized).JPG

#1478 2 years ago

Has anyone run into this problem yet?

Unboxed on Friday and put in two games before the carousel stopped spinning. Spent about 30 minutes surveying the assembly and finally discovered it was getting hung up on the white plastic piece that guides the motor arm. Not sure if it was assembled incorrectly or if the white plastic piece was manufactured wrong, but at each point it was catching. I had to Dremel the sharp edges down for it to be able to work properly. Maybe just a fluke. Luckily I was able to find a solution as mine is on location and there was a bunch of people there to play. Definitely lost about an hour and a half worth of money on day 1

Pics attached for before and after so you can get an idea of what I mean.

B66-1 (resized).jpg

B66-2 (resized).jpg

#1479 2 years ago

Got my premium last week, so I'm officially in the club.

I know there has been some discussion about the left orbit and I'm curious if the blue nub on the outside of the ramp is necessary. What is its intended purpose? Thanks.

#1480 2 years ago

It keeps the ramp safe and unbent from the 50,000 shots that will hit it.

#1481 2 years ago

I've been trying to figure out how this game is going to have some of the same attributes of other games that I love like IM, MET, MM, GB etc: The stacking, the brutality, the risk / reward and the fun.

Pure speculation ahead:

It seems to me that Lyman is taking a slightly different route on this game from the others I love. Batman offers crazy bonus levels, the ability to keep driving up the bat phone value with the gordon target, player-controlled shot multipliers and playfield multipliers that are pretty easy to enable. While I've complained a little in the rules thread that I hope they tone down some of the multipliers, I'm starting to think that multipliers ARE the strategy for Batman and I think they may even go higher than they are now instead of lower. This would make a game that's relatively easy to play, difficult to blow up, but has the potential to have an extremely wide range of scores from top players to beginners who essentially accomplish the same goals in the game.

Instead of attempting to stack major modes in an efficient order, as in Iron Man, Batman seems to be forcing the player to decide when and how to stack the various multipliers in the game to maximize the score. For example: If you have the skill and ball control, you can get up to 6x at the jackpot scoop, double the playfield, hit the mystery for 3x playfield and get 18x jackpot. Of course, playing the major villain for as long as you can increases the jackpot value, so the player has to decide when they want to try and cash in vs rolling up the score.

If I'm right, I hope that the Batsignal wizard mode scoring is related to the amount that has been scored in each villain mode.

#1482 2 years ago
Quoted from Rasavage:

Got my premium last week, so I'm officially in the club.
I know there has been some discussion about the left orbit and I'm curious if the blue nub on the outside of the ramp is necessary. What is its intended purpose? Thanks.

The discussion has not been about whether its necessary, but whether to move it from the outside of the left ramp, to the inside. It is without doubt necessary as BrewinBombers said, but moving it opens up the left orbit significantly.

#1483 2 years ago

Lloyd reminded me to order the playfield protector. Ordered & shipped. Hope it comes soon.
Anyone sell a pre-cut wireform cover?

i'm planning to take the BM66 SLE to texas pinball festival. So trying to get it all armored-up for battle.
Any recommendations for the lockbar? (pen stripe will probably be gone by end of show if I don't do something).

Wish there was like a mylar-lite that I could put on & then safely peal off after show.
Or maybe find an alt lockbar to swap out for show?
I dunno...

#1484 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

The discussion has not been about whether its necessary, but whether to move it from the outside of the left ramp, to the inside. It is without doubt necessary as BrewinBombers said, but moving it opens up the left orbit significantly.

Still haven't figured out what the problem is for everyone with the left orbit. After a few games, I can hit that orbit just about every time, and I have moved nothing. I would give some time for the corners of the pad to flatten out a bit, or maybe it just takes some getting used to...but the more games you put on it, the smoother everything becomes. No need for tweaks on mine.

#1485 2 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

Lloyd reminded me to order the playfield protector. Ordered & shipped. Hope it comes soon.
Anyone sell a pre-cut wireform cover?
i'm planning to take the BM66 SLE to texas pinball festival. So trying to get it all armored-up for battle.
Any recommendations for the lockbar? (pen stripe will probably be gone by end of show if I don't do something).
Wish there was like a mylar-lite that I could put on & then safely peal off after show.
Or maybe find an alt lockbar to swap out for show?
I dunno...

That's super cool of you to take it. I'll be there and hope to meet you. Regarding the red stripe, honestly it's easily replaced if you wanted to DIY.

#1486 2 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

Lloyd reminded me to order the playfield protector. Ordered & shipped. Hope it comes soon.
Anyone sell a pre-cut wireform cover?
i'm planning to take the BM66 SLE to texas pinball festival. So trying to get it all armored-up for battle.

I'd leave the protector off as a trip to the festival without one will help season the playfield. Already on mine, the dimpling is starting to even out and the more we play it the better it gets.

#1487 2 years ago

Honestly, the dimpling on mine is not bad. Substantially less than GB, TWD or ST.

#1488 2 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

That's not a bad idea!
Here are my turntable/ramp lights which I finally got around to. 7 smd led warm white on left side of right ramp. 7 smd led natural white on underside of left ramp. I'm happy with it.

Looks great!!!

#1489 2 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Looks great!!!

Thanks. Here is seizure warning replacement draft #2. Will probably iterate one more time for a little darker purple on the letters.

IMG_0789.JPG

#1490 2 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

Lloyd reminded me to order the playfield protector. Ordered & shipped. Hope it comes soon.
Anyone sell a pre-cut wireform cover?
i'm planning to take the BM66 SLE to texas pinball festival. So trying to get it all armored-up for battle.
Any recommendations for the lockbar? (pen stripe will probably be gone by end of show if I don't do something).
Wish there was like a mylar-lite that I could put on & then safely peal off after show.
Or maybe find an alt lockbar to swap out for show?
I dunno...

Labnip. I added mylar (not the temporary kind, the pin restore full on kind)

Thread and printable templates here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread?tu=mt45#post-3534350

#1491 2 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Thanks. Here is seizure warning replacement draft #2. Will probably iterate one more time for a little darker purple on the letters.

Looks great. Would like one of these for mine. (when it gets here)

#1492 2 years ago

So i was digging around underneath the PF tonight, parts were shipped friday, was surveying the situation and the wires sheared off don't have anything to do with the mech as i follow them up to the front of the PF.

Probably why my flippers don't work.

So it won't just be popping out the table and fitting the new one in. I've called a local guy tech to get him involved. Need to get wiring harness replaced and run correctly!

#1493 2 years ago

Ice it sucks you can't get it going yet, but when you do, you should be very pleased with it.

I have all the patience in the world, but I can't bring myself to play new in box Russian roulette. I had to get one I could inspect first. Only one in town...

#1494 2 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Ice it sucks you can't get it going yet, but when you do, you should be very pleased with it.
I have all the patience in the world, but I can't bring myself to play new in box Russian roulette. I had to get one I could inspect first. Only one in town...

Well i've been fortunate up to this point but yeah i don't really mind the adventure of getting this thing fixed as weird as it sounds.

On the plus side i can have the tech take a look at a couple of other issues while he's here with my Woz and Ac/dc.

#1495 2 years ago

I actually had a turntable problem on the second game I played once I got it home. It would have helped if that packing foam hadn't been left in there.

After I removed all that it's been working like a swiss watch knock on wood.

#1496 2 years ago
Quoted from krankcolc:

Has anyone run into this problem yet?
Unboxed on Friday and put in two games before the carousel stopped spinning. Spent about 30 minutes surveying the assembly and finally discovered it was getting hung up on the white plastic piece that guides the motor arm. Not sure if it was assembled incorrectly or if the white plastic piece was manufactured wrong, but at each point it was catching.

Part of my problem as well. Couldn't get it to catch on its own, i could physically maneuver it into position but i'm thinking it just was assembled correctly

#1497 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

For Stern to market BM66 as such a special anniversary premium product they really should have just had enclosed wireforms at the bends. Sure someone will make their own down the road the skill set on pinside never ceases to amaze me.

This is going to be my approach....should look factory, and have a great metal shop and powder coating facility very, very close. Suspect it wasn't caught early enough before production to provide the correct habitrail....sort of excited to get this done....

#1498 2 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

Anyone know what scale the Batmobile on the turntable is?

1:64 I think. The real one is about 225" so 1:64 would be about 3.5".

#1499 2 years ago

So I had the upper section of my turntable mech partially disassembled to install my Titan rubbers in there. I was a little nervous about taking it apart but it wasnt that bad once I started.

Since I had the turntable apart I took a closer look at the bat phone. I never really like the overly big size and the lack of detail on it. The soft plastic with low detail reminds me of a dog chew squeker toy.

I decided to see how it looked if I replaced it with the red translucent phone that comes with this batman action figure kit.

https://m.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=54368326&gclid=CPL_tZOE_dECFZqLswodAcQBog&camp=PLAPPCG-_-PID20213847%3aTRUS&cagpspn=plat_20213847&eESource=CAPLA_DF%3a54368326%3aTRUS

008 (resized).jpg

Although it shows up for $29.99 online, the Toys-R-Us near me currently has it on clearance for $25.

The phone with this kit is way smaller but has nice detail for the size. As a bonus the set also comes with a mini shakespese bust. So putting the bust and the phone in should fill the space nicely.

rps20170206_222454 (resized).jpg

The current phone has a tricolor LED mounted with just the red input connected. It is mounted to the bottom of phone above the plastic. The phone was screwed to the plastic from below via two screws.

For my mod I used the existing LED board but I mounted it under the plastic via a small nut and bolt. I used one of the two existing holes that was used to mount the original phone to secure the LED board under the plastic. When mounted there the LED on the board lines up almost perfectly with the larger hole that was used to feed the LED control wires and connector to the old phone. I put some red electical tape on the board to keep the contacts from shorting on anything. I then mounted the new phone over the hole. There is no bottom on the phone so the light illuminates it pretty well.

20170205_210811 (resized).jpg

To make the area look more like the Wayne manor study I added some art in the back to make it look like wood paneling. This art also covers the wires on the back of the bat computer. Those exposef wires there annoyed me everytime I saw them.

Overall I think it looks better than the old phone. If I wanted to take it even further I could put a decal on the existing plastic under the phone to make it look like the top of a desk. You could also put a graphic in the back to show the bat poles behind the book case.

20170206_215503 (resized).jpg

20170206_215433 (resized).jpg

#1500 2 years ago

With the phone that size, you should find a Shakespeare bust to put next to it, or even a desk for the whole thing.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 60.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Docquest Pinball Mods
There are 14886 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 298.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside