Also is the amount of play in the attached video normal?

And this, seems like a lot of play in the mechanism. Normal?

I was having all sorts of issues
With it.If I didn't play the game for a couple of days it was worse.
I never tweaked or adjusted anything. Just thought why not with @Thunderbirds white grease idea and it's been fine for months now.
Hopei t fixes it for you.

Looks ok.Mines exactly the same

Sorry for so many posts but this is driving me nuts. Why does the metal clutch even goes to this position? It is turning counter clockwise and not even in one of the slots. trying to move but only the edge so no turning possible.

One more post coming...…….

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So I finally figured out maybe the cause of my issue. When the playfield is in normal position the Wheel is too low and blocks the clutch assembly from moving at all. So...is there a way to adjust this and raise the turntable so the wheel will be free to engage and move?

BM 66 issue (resized).JPG

STERN BATMAN 66 AND IRON MAIDEN TOPPERS : REVIEW AND INSTALL

Recently I installed the Batman 66 and Iron Maiden toppers on my games. The two toppers look great and were easy to install. The Batman 66 topper seems like it is just a lit up topper with no interaction with the game. The Iron Maiden topper seems like it interacts with certain modes in the game by lighting up certain parts of the topper.

Blog Post :
https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2019/04/20/mod-install-stern-batman-66-and-iron-maiden-toppers-review-and-install-video/

YouTube Video :

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Iron Maiden and Batman 66 Title (resized).jpg

What I did was manually move that clutch with my finger in the other direction so it fits back into one of the slots. It is connected to the motor so they're is resistance. But it does move.
When mine was jammed I had to move the clutch and plastic scallop together with two hands to turn the mini playfield past the sticking point.

Use this image of my game to determine what is out of position on your game. You can see there should be 1/16 gap between the cam arm and the plastic.
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Fixed, put 2 washers underneath each of the four screws that attach the motor mount to raise the cam mechanism. Works great now.

I will do the same for the turntable playfield as well as the back is too high and I have already adjusted to the lowest it can go.

Stern should provide washers/spacers with this machine.

Spacers (resized).jpg

I have a 2 week old BM 66and the turntable was binding on something where it would not turn. After multiple inspections and multiple frustrations with calls to pinball friends, I discovered a plastic piece holding the lane diverter had come unscrewed. Sure enough both red screws had fallen out.

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Yes, grease is the word (sorry couldn’t resist).

That should fix it. Turntable gap around circumference looks good.

(Another page of issues and photos I just saw above)

I see, additional issue. Adjust the motor housing height by removing and installing a white nylon washer (same thickness as one already there) overtop of the current nylon washer, which will give it height enough to clear that assembly, it appears from this post. (Funny your additional posts just came in on installing washers).

Keep the following in mind when adjusting mini playfield height:

- Level can vary across all 3 turntable positions. Always test across all 3 using a straight edge (ruler) and game diagnostics.
- Adjusting just one point will probably affect front and back.
- Ensure the television and bat phone positions are PERFECTLY level, or a fraction lower. A fraction higher is really bad for causing airballs.
- It takes a lot of trial and error finding the right adjustment.
- Back height is not as critical unless it keeps balls from entering the lock.

I completely disassembled the turntable on my game and slightly shimmed the mini playfield angle on the plate it mounts to.. I did that because the level was really inconsistent between all 3 positions and there was no other way to adjust that by other means.

Rob

Added a custom shooter from Modelvisionary of Super Skill Shot Shooters to go with my Mod Couple shooter plate.

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.

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Where did you buy that cool shooter rod? Link?
(Okay was looking in a small phone screen and now see you’ve included place.)

Thank you guys for documenting your turntable experiences. I hope I never have to tear mine apart, haha.

Mine fell out as well. The wood was stripped where the screws went in so I put toothpicks into the holes before screwing them back in to make them fit better.

Is it worth doing this proactively? Don’t have any problems but don’t want any problems either!

I don't think so.

Rob

Putting white grease around the cam edges is worth it. Anything mechanical running on a motor with a cam does better with grease on it. That’s mechanic’s 101.

The white gear is a nylon type plastic it seems. It's naturally low friction and should not need any lubrication. Grease is not pinball 101.

Rob

Would normally agree, but in this case, with no lubricant, my cam would often stall and would not properly turn. After applying the grease, never an issue from that point onward.

I'd have to agree with that. 3 months in and mine has never stuck since and works a lot smoother to boot.
If it ain't broke then your fine.But this advice solved the issue I was having.

Just picked up a premium. Do others find the left ramp and wireform wobbly when shot... it moves. Best I can tell the ramp is only secured by two bolts under the ramp entrance and the wireframe support that is pretty far away from the ramp itself. Wondering if it’s normal... or if maybe the bolt on mine snapped... haven’t taken the ramp off to check. Just checked that the nuts underneath were snug.

It definitely rattles a bit and I've read about others securing it somehow. I just don't want to do anything that makes the shot easier. For me it can be a tough/frustrating shot, but I think it needs to be or the game would become trivial. I worry if it was more secure that some of the shots that rattle and come back down would instead make it up the ramp.

I'd say the difference between my good and bad games predominantly come down to how well I happen to be hitting the left ramp.

I will say I don't really notice the wire frame itself rattling that much though, just the ramp.

Stern has a kit available to stabilize the left wireform. Its essentially a longer piece of plastic that's secured to the top diverter by an extra bolt. You also get a diverter piece that attaches to the Batgirl plastic to prevent balls from hopping over the left outlane during multiball. Email or call Chas. He'll take care of you.

Excellent advice! Done.

So I was making a leveling adjustment to the mini playfield turntable, as per previous posts here, as I had one side (batphone) a bit higher than the others. After I made the adjustment and powered it back on, I see this:

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Of course, this is a cause for concern. It attempted a reboot by itself, but the same message popped up. I power-cycled a couple of times, but still the same message.

Next I went into service mode, and ran the bus test and board test. This is what I encountered:

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I lifted the playfield, and it would seem to me that the board is receiving power (green and red LEDS are lit; of course, if the one that's red is not supposed to be, then that would indicate something). I checked the cables running to the board as best as I could (it's a tight fit in there!), but the error persists.

If anyone has any advice about this, I'd certainly appreciate. I truly hope that a board replacement is not in my future, as this looks like a real bear to get into.

Looks like you probably knocked a connector loose on the board under your turntable. Check those connections. I know that they are not easy to access - have fun!

Yes I thought as much. I went back over it again this morning, and confirmed that all connections are good.

In the meantime, I had written to Stern yesterday about this, and heard back from Chas this morning, who said that from what I was describing, the node board is probably bad (the indicator lights suggested that the board was receiving power and that the connection was good). So I wrote to my distributor and requested a replacement board, at Chas's direction.

Hopefully I'll be up and running and catching criminals again soon!

This kit actually secures the ramp in another spot? My concern is the amount of deflection and movement the whole ramp+wireform gets as the ramp is shot.

Yes the kit adds an additional mount point to the rear center coil bracket making it much more rigid and for me never had an air ball ever. Strongly suggest this free addition.

I.......can't engage again. Went to crazy lengths to get the correct wireform available for this game. Suffice to say, the mod helps the original, but flows no where near what it should....is what it is....

Your concern is quite valid, sadly.....

Are you the one that had a new wireform made with a top wire spanning the entire back from the ramp? If so, could you post a photo or show us how that can be duplicated? Thanks in advance.

I believe he created a full documentary thread on this ramp which should help.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/where-to-get-wireform-made/page/7#post-4421512

Thanks for that Yelobird and your excellent mods too!

Thank you So much. While its sad the ramp concept never came to reality if you haven't already Do consider just getting the Stern ramp Free kit as it does work. After adding that the ramp is rigid and I have had 0 issues. Seems like the best and Free solution.

Yep...cliff notes:

a) Identified the need, took the measurements, and sacrificed my own LE wireform to Matt (Doom pinball) to create the proto, and sell to all(lost that wireform, btw in the process). He really seemed excited, and was anxious to get started.

b) Proto turned out amazing, and flows way better than the original. I'm not going to argue that one anymore. The extra "plastic" (being kind) and support point minimized the problem (free kit that Yelobird refers), but never cured the root of the problem...pitch and entry point/ transition between ramp and wireform pitch. Take the free extended plastic off and see what happens (I regress).

c) Matt had posted pricing, powdered to to taste, and I started the list. He is a master craftsman, and I was sure he would see this through for the good of the community. I spent alot of time and effort tweaking the proto for final rev as the list grew.

d) Fortunately, no $$$ ever changed hands, I don't do "mods for profit"...simply wanted this thing out there. Alot of amazing people do amazing things on here.

e) Matt disappears, and despite months of effort, ultimately left me answering many, many pm's as to what happened. I simply don't know (still don't). Did get an apology pm several months ago, stating he would return my original wireform. That too, did not happen.

f) Ended up taking the proto to a local, very well tooled machine shop and convinced them to make a final version of the proto w changes, along w a ramp that didn't have wire-tie holes in it.

g) after several more months, I got mine done, and it exceeded expectations. Had to apologize to the community (thread referenced above) as I couldn't convince my local guy to mass produce these things. Pics are somewhere in this thread, I believe.

h) I don't gloat about it because the project never came to fruition, and can't share what was achieved with anyone (sadly), as I have the only one. Is it stronger, faster and play substantially better than the original - yes. Not even close.

The "kit" contains the ball, but certainly does not fix the problem. is what it is.....(I'll dig for original posted pics of final rev and link here)

Link https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/229#post-4670269

you can scroll up and down to see a few other pics.

I absolutely love this machine, and if it leaves, it will be because I've left the hobby, and they all go....

If you decide to leave please sell me your modified ramp before you go ...

To be honest, the way it is now from the factory is perfectly fine. If the extended plastic does it's job, that's all that really matters. The left ramp on my game shoots and flows really well.

Rob

looking tonight.. It seems I already have the updated ramp design. There are two plastics on top.. one that comes off the cat plastic, and one that is secured off a post from the gate that is at the top of the orbit. This covers the first half of the wireform beyond the cat plastic. But the wireform isn't supported by it at all... still the first connection point isn't until the switch at about the 2oclock position.

I don't think mine is rigid... I guess I should pop the ramp off and make sure the studs are intact.

I would have to look again but I Know before the add on kit from Stern the ramp was WAY to loose flopping up and down which Did cause air balls. After the kit and rear attachment it seems really stable and no issues at all for me. Can't say you could pick the game up with the ramp but still rigid enough for game play.

As I said, I won't debate that one anymore. The "finished" design is simply much more solid, and shot is super satisfying now that the ball moves as it was intended. Is what it is. Suffice to say there were over 50 people on the list wanting to get it sorted, and suspect Matt would have sold many, many of these.

Truly glad yours works fine (" perfectly fine" it's definitely not). The fix prevented air balls and got the game reliable ( I know, I had installed that prior) but the entry chatter, as well as watching the wire form flex as the ball went through it (all slowing it down) drove me crazy. Just wanted something better. The game deserved it.

Some one will get it eventually, I suppose..

My factory default ramp works perfect, no air balls, no rejects, no flexing on high speed balls

Mine does flex a little, but the ball travel is smooth as silk. In fact it is one of my favorite flowing ramps.

It's turned into a monster game...play it all the time...no more "rampgate" talk from me....someone asked, I answered....onward, Batman!!!!