Batman 66 (LE)
Stern, 2016
Batman 66 (Premium)
Stern, 2016
Batman 66 (Super LE)
Stern, 2016Quoted from PinMonk:It doesn't exist yet, AFAIK. Assuming it's coming once they get the code to 1.0 for the game itself, probably on the 2 year anniversary, which is coming up in just 5 months.
I'd think whatever they do for the SLE topper could work for the LE topper as well with optional bat-signal.
OK,Bat fans,here's a new one-when multyball is lit,and ball 1 is locked,the turntable then turns and releases the first locked ball!!What???Then,the ball lock lights go off,then come back on,and show ball 1 locked!!! Same thing with ball2!#!! Then,ball3 and it releases the one final ball left!!!Can someone please tell me WTF is going on??? I'm getting tired of all the S--t you do on this pin!!!Help would be greatly helpful!!! Thanks Pinheads!!!
Quoted from docquest:What is this SLE specific topper code you speak of? Enquiring minds want to know.
There is no SLE specific topper code and it doesn't make sense to have topper effects on the SLE that won't work on the LE. There are clearly SLE specific sound bites (Get the Batphone, <name>
, presumably indexed by the game ID number that shows up on SLEs on boot. I suspect it will be very hard (but probably not impossible) to use PB to trick the code into thinking you have an SLE, but you will be limited to using (or modifying) one of the existing custom calls either by figuring out where the code figured out the index or where in the hardware it's coded.
Quoted from docquest:I'd think whatever they do for the SLE topper could work for the LE topper as well with optional bat-signal.
No idea until they actually release SLE-specific topper code like they're supposed to. They're only about 2 years behind schedule on the main game, so I'm not holding my breath for the topper code.
Quoted from PinMonk:Honestly, your best bet is selling your Prem and just buying a HUO LE with the topper already on it. That will likely cost you a bit over $2k more, but it's a sure thing.
Good luck finding an LE under 10k! I looked for a while and ran wanted adds with no success for a while and that was last November when the code was showing promise but still had a ways to go. One of my buddy’s had a modded out LE and I was finally able to talk him out of it last December.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Good luck finding an LE under 10k! I looked for a while and ran wanted adds with no success for a while and that was last November when the code was showing promise but still had a ways to go. One of my buddy’s had a modded out LE and I was finally able to talk him out of it last December.
There's one in the archive for $9800 recently that wasn't sold. It's not the only one that's been available for under $10k recently.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Good luck finding an LE under 10k! I looked for a while and ran wanted adds with no success for a while and that was last November when the code was showing promise but still had a ways to go. One of my buddy’s had a modded out LE and I was finally able to talk him out of it last December.
Yea - while everyone was waiting for code we just modded the hell out of the games so many of us have spent a lot on mods on top of the game that will probably add to the asking price.
Quoted from PinMonk:There's one in the archive for $9800 recently that wasn't sold. It's not the only one that's been available for under $10k recently.
Saw that one for sale up in Canada, not sure if it sold or not add says ended by seller.
Quoted from PinMonk:There's one in the archive for $9800 recently that wasn't sold. It's not the only one that's been available for under $10k recently.
Didn’t your guy sell the SLE that you had an interest in dude? Sure I remember seeing you post the BM66 you where involved with was sold, if so what did your guy get for his SLE?
Quoted from J85M:Didn’t your guy sell the SLE that you had an interest in dude? Sure I remember seeing you post the BM66 you where involved with was sold, if so what did your guy get for his SLE?
I'm not sure he'd want me sharing, but it was a trade+cash and he didn't lose money on the machine. If he'd kept it another year he probably could have squeezed out another couple grand as the game finally comes together and the rarity kicked in harder, but he's not unhappy with how it worked out.
Quoted from ASOA:he other side of that spectrum. I need a topper on everyone of my games. If there is a person out there that would part with it. I'm over here. Just let me know.
I think you are crazy Jonathan 
Quoted from Texasff78:I completely agree that’s it is going to be hard to find people willing to give up the topper. But at some price point screwdrivers and bubble wrap would start coming out. 1500 range is pretty much my max right now.
Kind of sounds like a bidding war. Very discreet bid of 1,500 I like it.
Quoted from ASOA:Kind of sounds like a bidding war. Very discreet bid of 1,500 I like it.
Hahaha no I said range. But since you’re playfully calling me out I’ll go with “I posted first!” All kidding aside not life and death here and if you get it first I will keep looking. Hope we both find one.
Quoted from TimO:Thanks for your post and pic! It’s reassuring to know someone else has successfully gone through this process. About how long did it take to get at the board and did you need anything other than screw and nut drivers to do it?
Removing it probably took an hour, but I stopped a couple of times. But, getting that board out was a process, no question. I first was able to remove the connectors with my fingers (starting with the connectors to the right and working my way to the two ethernet connections) and then used a long phillips screwdriver to get the four screws loose and carefully removed the board from the mess of wires. The four screws on the board should stay in place even when they are loose.
I originally started to remove the entire turntable, but that job seemed a little bit above my repair level and even after studying the schematic and turning a couple of screws, I decided to try to just remove the board without tearing the whole thing apart.
Did you talk to Stern? When I reached out to them, the tech said I needed to go through my distributor to get a new node board. He didn't seem surprised about the issue either, so I think this is a known problem.
Quoted from PinMonk:No idea until they actually release SLE-specific topper code like they're supposed to. They're only about 2 years behind schedule on the main game, so I'm not holding my breath for the topper code.
No one ever said or promised anything about SLE-specific topper code. Why do you continue to make stuff up?
Amazing that you want to ding Stern for not doing something that was never promised. Looks like you still haven't gotten over not doing your homework before you bought the game. Those of us who did have moved on and enjoy the game as it is now - a great game that will only get better.
There are lots of things I'd like to see when the code is finally done. Implementing the SLE specific callouts is one, even though I don't have one. But exclusive topper effects for the SLE? No.
Quoted from marksf123:Yea - while everyone was waiting for code we just modded the hell out of the games so many of us have spent a lot on mods on top of the game that will probably add to the asking price.
Don't have to worry about asking price if you don't sell the game ...
Quoted from JefeJet:Removing it probably took an hour, but I stopped a couple of times. But, getting that board out was a process, no question. I first was able to remove the connectors with my fingers (starting with the connectors to the right and working my way to the two ethernet connections) and then used a long phillips screwdriver to get the four screws loose and carefully removed the board from the mess of wires. The four screws on the board should stay in place even when they are loose.
I originally started to remove the entire turntable, but that job seemed a little bit above my repair level and even after studying the schematic and turning a couple of screws, I decided to try to just remove the board without tearing the whole thing apart.
Did you talk to Stern? When I reached out to them, the tech said I needed to go through my distributor to get a new node board. He didn't seem surprised about the issue either, so I think this is a known problem.
Thanks for the walk-through, JefeJet. I talked to David at Stern who seemed pretty sure I needed to replace the board and assured me it was easy-peasy and taking the turntable apart was unnecessary (He's never met me and my fat fingers). As for replacement he punted me to Marco (who I bought the machine from). Marco said they needed to call Stern to find out who was going to pay for the $110 board. Hopefully they'll figure that out and someone will ship the board by the end of the week. Worst case scenario, I eat the $110, but I'm more concerned about digging into that mess inside the turntable mech.
Quoted from TimO:Thanks for the walk-through, JefeJet. I talked to David at Stern who seemed pretty sure I needed to replace the board and assured me it was easy-peasy and taking the turntable apart was unnecessary (He's never met me and my fat fingers). As for replacement he punted me to Marco (who I bought the machine from). Marco said they needed to call Stern to find out who was going to pay for the $110 board. Hopefully they'll figure that out and someone will ship the board by the end of the week. Worst case scenario, I eat the $110, but I'm more concerned about digging into that mess inside the turntable mech.
Stern has been Really great on stepping up for these board issues. I also had a Nod board issue and Chaz (Stern) had it replaced in short order. Sorry to see your down hopefully not long!
Quoted from Yelobird:Stern has been Really great on stepping up for these board issues. I also had a Nod board issue and Chaz (Stern) had it replaced in short order. Sorry to see your down hopefully not long!
I too had board issues right out of the box - Chaz was quick to help as well.
Quoted from PinMonk:There's one in the archive for $9800 recently that wasn't sold. It's not the only one that's been available for under $10k recently.
It sold.
I ordered the Pin Stadium kit with UV+Glow on Friday for my BM66 Premium. I hope to have it in the next couple of days. I think one of the poppers might prove to be the best hookup for the UV. Anyone have a different recommendation?
How long are we looking at for code to be completed? I will buy then, but only then. I am not interested in a topper, and would not want to pay more than 8500 for the machine.
Quoted from FarFromHeaven26:How long are we looking at for code to be completed? I will buy then, but only then. I am not interested in a topper, and would not want to pay more than 8500 for the machine.
I've had my personal BM66 since last Friday, and been playing it for over a year on location. In it's present state if it were not for the few gray'd out minor villains in the selection menu you would never know that the code isn't complete, it's that good.
My last 2 Stern NIB purchases (BM66 & SW Prem) I waited until the code was complete enough for full enjoyment and use, so I know where you are coming from. BM66 is there now.....get one while you can if you are looking for NIB.
Quoted from txstargazer3:I ordered the Pin Stadium kit with UV+Glow on Friday for my BM66 Premium. I hope to have it in the next couple of days. I think one of the poppers might prove to be the best hookup for the UV. Anyone have a different recommendation?
For my setup I found the center pop flasher in the Playfield was the best option for the UV flasher. Great effect without being over the top. Hope he is caught up with production but in most cases it does take several weeks for them to ship FYI.
Quoted from Yelobird:For my setup I found the center pop flasher in the Playfield was the best option for the UV flasher. Great effect without being over the top. Hope he is caught up with production but in most cases it does take several weeks for them to ship FYI.
Yes, Scott has shipped it already. It has made it as far as the Des Moines, IA post office on the way to Chicago - it should only be two or three days now. Thanks for the advice on the center pop flasher.
Quoted from FarFromHeaven26:How long are we looking at for code to be completed? I will buy then, but only then. I am not interested in a topper, and would not want to pay more than 8500 for the machine.
No one outside of Stern can answer that question.
There will be Premiums available new when the code is complete, but there is really no need to wait. The code as is is terrific even if there are no further updates.
Quoted from johnnyutah:What topper is that? A one off?
It doesn't look that bad. If they could sell it for $100 or less and its backlit I think it would sell well. I'm assuming that R2D2 topper isn't the one that is taking a year for licensing approval.
Quoted from docquest:It doesn't look that bad. If they could sell it for $100 or less and its backlit I think it would sell well. I'm assuming that R2D2 topper isn't the one that is taking a year for licensing approval.
I think it was mentioned in the Star Wars thread that these were simply printed cardboard sign displays for the trade show. The Aerosmith one is simply an image of the actual available model. Heck, if someone was nuts for that simple Batman sign that would be a simple profile cut and image print. Personally I like the collaboration project you and I discussed. Looks Very promising!
Quoted from johnnyutah:What topper is that? A one off?
Fair enough then JohnnyUtah, I was under a mistaken impression. Thank you for that much appreciated clarification.
OK,Bat Fans,here's one for ya-- right out of Pinball Stupid 101!! Had trouble with my multyball feature,and it was weird! Easy fix: after you work on your pin,always remember to put ALL the balls back in !!! 
Quoted from hawkmoon:OK,Bat Fans,here's one for ya-- right out of Pinball Stupid 101!! Had trouble with my multyball feature,and it was weird! Easy fix: after you work on your pin,always remember to put ALL the balls back in !!!
Lol! Sometimes its the simplest things.
Quoted from JefeJet:Removing it probably took an hour, but I stopped a couple of times. But, getting that board out was a process, no question. I first was able to remove the connectors with my fingers (starting with the connectors to the right and working my way to the two ethernet connections) and then used a long phillips screwdriver to get the four screws loose and carefully removed the board from the mess of wires. The four screws on the board should stay in place even when they are loose.
I originally started to remove the entire turntable, but that job seemed a little bit above my repair level and even after studying the schematic and turning a couple of screws, I decided to try to just remove the board without tearing the whole thing apart.
Did you talk to Stern? When I reached out to them, the tech said I needed to go through my distributor to get a new node board. He didn't seem surprised about the issue either, so I think this is a known problem.
Marco is still waiting for Chaz at Stern to get back to them about the board (since Monday) but they gave me the go ahead to remove the old one. What a nightmare! The screws were easy but getting those 8 connectors disconnected was a chore. And even when the board was free of the connectors and screws it took forever to free it from those bundles of wires. I had to snip quite a few zip ties taking notes and pics so I remember where to redo them. By the time I got the board out the D9 had fallen off completely.
JefeJet , how did you go about installing the new board? Did you screw it in first and then connect it? I have serious doubts about being able to get a new board back in there in one piece, especially if that transistor can be knocked loose so easily. With the playfield resting against the back box, I have the turntable oriented so the board is facing up and I’m coming at it from the right side. Is that the correct approach? Thanks again for any tips.
Quoted from hawkmoon:OK,Bat Fans,here's one for ya-- right out of Pinball Stupid 101!! Had trouble with my multyball feature,and it was weird! Easy fix: after you work on your pin,always remember to put ALL the balls back in !!!
Been there!!!! also remember to take your test ball OUT after checking switch matrix before putting the correct # back in.....think I actually started a thread " why is my machine loading 2 balls instead of one" some time ago...good grief!!!!
Quoted from iceman44:In my book.
Shaping up to be greatest overall pin ever.
But hey, I love the theme and playing this awesome pin!
That’s what they’re saying in the Iron Maiden thread(s) and the Star Wars thread.
Quoted from pauloz:That’s what they’re saying in the Iron Maiden thread(s) and the Star Wars thread.
It's ALL good. When we can feel that way about any pin!
And I'm anxiously awaiting my IMDNLE.
Quoted from iceman44:It's ALL good. When we can feel that way about any pin!
And I'm anxiously awaiting my IMDNLE.
Me too.
can you take a picture of which flasher its hooked up to?
Quoted from Yelobird:For my setup I found the center pop flasher in the Playfield was the best option for the UV flasher. Great effect without being over the top. Hope he is caught up with production but in most cases it does take several weeks for them to ship FYI.
Quoted from cooked71:Difference is they are wrong.
I will soon have all three when Iron Maiden gets here. I expect I will like all three. All are great games.
Quoted from pauloz:I will soon have all three when Iron Maiden gets here. I expect I will like all three. All are great games.
Same here....just stiring the pot. I agree all 3 are great and complement each other nicely (well, assuming Imdn will since I haven’t played it).
Quoted from DVDA:can you take a picture of which flasher its hooked up to?
Hope these pictures will help.
Quoted from JefeJet:I had Node 10 fail in the middle of a game a couple months ago. The same thing happened, all switches on the turntable became unresponsive. After troubleshooting I noticed that the D9 diode had become loose. It looks like you have the same problem.. Sadly, that board most likely going to need to be replaced and it's a real bitch to get at. After a struggle, I was able to get the board removed and put back in without a complete tear down of the turntable, but I'd get some guidance from Stern.
Also, if they do send you a new board, double check the dip switches to make sure they are in the correct configuration before you install it.
Here's a picture of my failed Node 10 board before I sent it back to Stern:
Hi, can you explain what guidance of Stern you got to reach node 10. It seems I have to do the same....... Thanks
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