I’ve had a LOT of experience with that turn table having to replace the first one and then dropping the PF into the bottom of the cab and bending the housing

It def has some play which is normal but not to the point where it would move during game play

It really is easy to adjust the pitch. I have it slightly below PF level so ball rolls nice and smooth

So I decided to take a good look at the Joker targets on my Premium. The metal bracket looks far enough back. I don't see how the targets on my machine would get stuck. I pushed them back as far as they could go and there is still plenty of room. Could there be manufacturing variations? Could this be a SLE/LE early production run problem only?

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EXCELLENT pic thank you!! Now I know what I'm supposed to be looking at. For some reason I thought the issue was the left target. I wonder why that little flange is on that bracket? Maybe file that down a bit as someone suggested would fix it.

In keeping with the BM66 theme my wife sent me this pic today of her and my Batdog..

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Doubling up on the Dead Foam has been great so far on Joker Targets if you want an easy fix.

Here's a pic of me pushing the targets back as far as they'll go on my replacement playfield. Sure does look like it's been redesigned. More space in there.Nothing for the target to get stuck on now.
I'll compare it to the old one tomorrow which I'll be swapping parts off when I get it back out of its box.

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Got my stuff from Chas today I guess I better cheat and read the directions

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That wider metal bracket isn't there on mine and some earlier pins. It's thin and the right target gets easily stuck unless you create your own backing.

They finally started shipping (2x)....I now have a spare....

Most excellent!!!!

Holy crap that update took a while to download...

I did the same thing, I felt like such an idiot. I had to forcefully bend the entire mechanism back into place and remove the two bottommost components and bend them back into place as well. It still sticks up from the play field just enough to catch a ball about 1 time out of 20 times into the ball lock mechanism.

So I will only need 1 of the capacitor do-dads and the one is a spare?

Two per pin since you need to do two node boards in each pin. I think he got a kit with one sent (which was useless since it needs two) and when he got the new kit it had two so he has a spare now.

Correct....sorry, should have clarified.

I dropped my KISS playfield also. The newer Sterns are notoriously easy to pull too far out and off the rails. For Pre owners with the support rails pull the playfield out just far enough until the rubber feet touch the back of the lockdown receiver. Then start lifting. When lowering the playfield back in I prefer to lift the top of the playfield over the bump instead of slamming it in.

Yep, really makes me appreciate the 90's B/W playfield mechanisms. The best ones made so far.

Had a few friends over tonight to play some pinball.Batman got the most plays. In fact you couldn't prize me off it. I swapped out the whole left ramp with the one off the other playfield I have and the left orbit shots tonight really flowed way way better than the one I took off. It was like night and day.
Previous one was a right pita to hit. Taking a look they are both cable tied up slightly different and this obviously makes a massive difference.
Anyone with bricking left orbits then that cable needs adjusting and re-tied.

Too cold out to work outside so ... I installed a whole pile of mods from the Mod Couple!
Special shout out to them for the extra care and service they gave. The mods look simply awesome!

- Atomic pile
- Computer cases
- Batmobile spinner rocks
- Batphone

Put Docs van in as well!

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I moved the tied cable but my shots still reject and are clunky. Sometimes it does make it. But it’s far from smooth.

Looks awesome and Proud to be part of your great collection. Question, how long did it take to get your Cliffy's? I always hate to pester him as he's a busy B but I think I ordered mine over a month ago. Just wondering what to expect as Batman 66 is a newer product for him. Thanks.

Took a pic of both ramps and you can see they have been tied differently. The one on the game now is perfect as it's tied underneath with the cable routed further back.
The one I'm holding was tied to the side causing way too many rejections.
Pretty handy having two at the moment to swap between and compare.

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Yep, you've definitely got to move the cable to underneath. I'm surprised the new pf had the cable to the side and the older one was underneath. I just cut off the cable tie and secured the cable to the end of the wireform.

Me too. Watching a few videos on you tube recently thinking to myself they make that shot look easy. I now know why. Major improvement. Out with the new and stick with the old.

Same here. no word yet on when it will be shipped.

I have verbal updates on status of availability of new ramp, wireform, and lockdown emblem, but not going to post until I get firm availability dates to pass on.

Know they are coming (I've put too much effort into the damn things on my end), and will be relentless to insure these are available to the community...mark

About a month Dave - that is the one item I did not get to install yet. Maybe today

Mine took about 5 weeks. Cliff sent me a note when I ordered apologizing that he was swamped and it would take far longer than he wanted.

I thought BM66 Cliffys were the same as Batman TDK Cliffys. What other ones does he have for BM66?

Re-designed scoop...cuts down on the rejected shots.

Shooter lane.

The kick out area in the upper right hand corner. Protector for the edge and a protector for the square cutout where the ball sits.

Thanks! I have his TDK Cliffy on the scoop. Get tons of rejects with that and a playfield protector on. Still, all the clear from the rear scoop and the saucer chipped off in the first few weeks of play. My shooter is near perfect with Mylar. Should I even bother with the newer Cliffys?

The new cliffy for the scoop has a beveled edge so should cut the rejects. The rest I'm not sure you need.

I would put every cliffy on this game.

Game is way too expensive to not protect.

Where do you guys order your Cliffy's from?

Passionforpinball.com

or

[email protected]

I ordered a set directly from Cliffy.

The scoop is just SLIGHTLY different. If you use the BM66 ones, the edges will bow a bit.

Can you use a cliffy at the scoop with a playfield protector installed?

So when I go to the website....I do not see anything for BM66
http://www.passionforpinball.com/protectors.htm

What am I missing?

You have to contact him directly.

I ordered a set also, several pieces for Batman 66. He is very easy to deal with, just gets busy. Best time to Email him is in the morning. Highly recommend.

Joined theckub today!!!! Now to get them mods.anyone got a good link for me to read the rules

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Congrats!! This link contains most of the current rules. The last couple updates have implemented the minor villains. Easy to figure those out by reading the LCD screen. Have fun!

http://tiltforums.com/t/batman-66-rulesheet/2463

Wow, You have already the Atomic Pile Mod, nice! And welcome to the Club!

Thanks a ton. I do alot of powdercoat and im thinking about doing black armor with a red outline stripe like the car. Prolly buy that expensive side armor

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I noticed sometimes my magnet will hold the ball and not let go. After about 1 second it does a ball search and drops it

Dead power supply in mine. Just a day after I put on .85 code and was ready to play the hell out of it . Organising a replacement. Has anyone else had this happen?

You could absolutely buy the expensive armor but do consider following my how to guide and do it yourself. Cost roughly $6 and the end result is great. Took maybe 30 minutes and minimal talent which I have lots of! Lol. I will provide a How To link for All SLE upgrades if you missed it. Good Luck!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-super-le-clone-mods-and-how-to-map-to-sle

Ok, this happened to me a day after I unboxed my game. After a few more times, the coil burnt and my magnet was scorched. It turns out it was a bad node board (node board 9 I believe) where one of the components activating that coil would "stick" open. This may be related to the issue mentioned with the service bulletin of components breaking or coming loose on the board.

They swapped my board, and because it was scorched, my magnet coil as well.

My recommendation is to turn off the magnet in the menu until you can verify that your node 9 board is operating properly (turning the magnet on and off as it's supposed to).

I was able to test that the component was stuck on with a continuity tester, or at least it seemed that way.