Awesome I just received mine and was hoping I could find another place than over Batgirl. It looks awesome.

I'm looking forward to seeing where you put it

Dog got fed this morning and thought why not fire up a few games before I take her out.
I got the dilemma shot. Ball 3 and one villain locked 2nd villain 1st stage complete.. Do you go for 3x on the villain and continue or cash out and light extra ball.
Must say I bailed and got the extra ball which I made.

Can't stop playing it any spare time I have. Thank you Lyman

I haven't received the set yet. I just asked for everything and those were the pictures he sent. He's really backligged at the moment and said it would be a few weeks. I also asked where the washer went. He said it goes under the switch to tilt it into the hole.

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Will do. I thought it would go well there if it didn't cover up too much of the plastic. I may not mount it yet because I'm waiting for the revised ramp before I put the Eaglemoss Batcopter over in that area and want to make sure the game doesn't have toy overload.

The other place I was thinking is by the shooter lane behind the Batmobile. I don't really like the idea of the Batmobile pulling the Batboat, but right now I have the Mezel Mods Batmobile with the flashing lights there. I like the detail of the Eaglemoss there, but it has no lights ...

Ha. Just did the same thing. Had finished Joker, and wanted to start Penguin to get some points, but on ball 3 thought it was too risky. So started Catwoman and captured her on the first attempt just so I could get extra ball. Then I was good to go with Penguin.

That’s where it goes. Makes sense, because the protector makes the switch stop working. All I did, was the bend the end and it worked perfectly...guess I have an extra washer now.

I haven't secured it into position, but here looks like a good spot for the Batgirl cycle. I think it covers up too much of Batgirl if you put it down towards the bottom.

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That looks like a really good spot for it. How did you secure it?

Now we'll have to figure out what to put at the bottom to prevent air balls to the outlane, assuming the Parachute van goes somewhere else.

Is that the hotwheels version or the Eaglemoss one? I think the Eaglemoss is a larger 1:43 scale and the hotwheels is smaller scale of 1:50. The Eaglmoss one should have come with a clear plastic "nest" that holds the bike in the uprigth position which should make mounting it easy

Is there enough clearance on the side so when you raise the playfield it doesnt touch?

These photos are from my installation. Let me know if you have any questions.

It is the Eaglemoss version at 1:43 scale and it does have the clear plastic nest. I have not mounted it yet, although I think 2 sided tape, velcro or tying it into the nut would work. I do think that there is enough clearance when the pf is lifted. Especially if you angle the cycle slightly. The photo shows a size comparison between Eaglemoss & Hot wheels. I bought whatever I could find in stock. I figured whatever doesnt work in the game, the grandkids can play with. I'm leaning towards the Eaglemoss batmobile & boat in the shooter lane using yelobird's mount.

I'm so fired up about this theme & game that I took Doc's advice from awhile back and bought all 143 of the trading cards. I also got the complete series on blu ray. Both cost me $40, which I think is a steal.

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I don’t have those, but I think they are pretty sharp. Keep us posted on what set you choose.

A few months ago I made some Bat emblems in the style of the ones on the Bat-mobile car door to dress up my speaker panel. This was before Yelobird came out with his very cool SLE style speaker kit.

For the few of you out there who didn't get the Yelobird speaker kit I have a small number of these available. They are laser cut white plastic with a laser cut red vinyl on top. I think they look just as good with the machine off as they do with the machine on (I have speaker lights installed). They have small magnet on the back so they just stick onto the speaker grill wherever you like. Putting one on the coin door doesn't look bad either.

They are $20 shipped for a pair for the speakers or $10 shipped for one to put on the coin door. PM me if you are interested. If you already ordered my Bat-signal projector mod I can ship them together.

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Shouldnt the lights be rectangle instead of circle. That looks bad.

There's more than one way to light up the new Spike 2 speaker panels. The factory cutouts are round. It's all a matter of preference. IMO anything is better than just leaving them black.

I think it looks good.

Been away for the weekend. Just got home, and about to install the new code. How is it? Anything I should know about before diving in?

Just install and enjoy.

Yes, tell your wife that you’re be playing till probably 3am or 4am tonight... we just came from a sushi place so I’ll be here all night too enjoying the last update

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I've seen the rectangular ones but they seemed a little too big for my tastes. I'm not 100% sold on the round ones either. Still deciding if I want to keep them or just stick with the red/white emblems. As Thundergod said anything is better than just leaving it black. There's just to much dead space there.

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Don't like the square ones. Maybe on some games, but absolutely not on Batman.

I have yelobirds speaker light kit but am considering not installing it as the SLE look seems to distract from the LCD. I think I am going to prefer doc's magnets on the black speaker grill - a nice touch that breaks up the black in an unassuming way without distracting from or overpowering the genius of the vintage TV display.

In addtion to the Z connector (white 3 connector one with pins on both sides sides) did yelobirds kit come with an extra IDC connector (grayish white connector with open slots on top) that wasn't attached to his harness? Thats what it looks like in your second pic. But I can see whats on the left end of the Z connector in you pic.

If he included a second IDC connector that snot part of his harness then you need to attach it to his harness so you have 2 IDC connectors next to each other. Then the Z connector can go into the second IDC connector and your topper connector can plug into that second IDC connector.

In the pic below you can see thats how the pinstadium guys made their harness. It uses CN6 but has a second IDC connector so you could plug other things intended for CN6 in it.

Can you add a pic of what Yelobirds harness looks like?

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As the instructions show and the PM I sent you. Simply unplug the Topper plug and plug the End of my dual Molex connector to the board. (Photo 1) Then plug your topper plug into the second Molex connector on my harness with the Z clip. Photo 2

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So CN6 is used for the Stern topper (and/or Batsignal), Pinstadium and yelobird speaker mods.

Is anyone running all of these off CN6?

With Docs Batsignal mod with relay, does it make sense to use an external power brick to drive these rather than daisy chaining them all off CN6?

Cut those 2 pieces of plastic off with a pair of cutters or dikes. Make sure the wires are aligned properly. Black matches with black all the way through the circuit. Plug the other end of the speaker lights harness into CN6. Make sure black wire is connected to ground.

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You definitely need Doc's power relay to run his signal because it needs 120VAC which you won't get from CN6. Only way to eliminate it would be to plug the signal into the accessory outlet on the power supply. But you'd have to unplug your game when finished otherwise it will be on all the time. For my Premium I only have the topper and Yelobird's speaker lights running off CN6. I guess you could daisy chain more mods but it would probably look something like this...

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The Premium Bat signal from Stern runs off 2 completely different plugs. I don't plan on using CN6 as the trigger for Doc's beacon. I have the Stern beacon and plan on using one of the node connections as my trigger so it will turn on/off during gameplay.

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I'm absolutely going to run Doc's Batsignal off the relay. I was more interested in how many things could safely run off CN6 or if it made sense to create a "alternate CN6" by plugging a wall wart into doc's relay

This seems like it would be the safest way without buying a power splitter.

Jim,

You have an LE right? For my projector mod the LE users tap off the stern connector in the topper as the relay trigger. You dont need to use CN6 at all.

For premium users the harness connects to CN6 to trigger the power elay. Since its only used to trigger the relay its very low current.

I have a breakout header on my harness so if you have something else on CN6 already you can still use it with my harness on the breakout header. The breakout connector I have on my harness is the right style for the topper connector so no need to snip off the nubs on the topper connector. See pic below.

I used CN6 since it was nearby and most people dont have the Stern topper. You dont have to use that connector though.You can trigger the relay on any 3v to 60 vdc signal. So you could tie in to any GI or insert bulb as a tigger and the projector would turn on whenever that light was on.

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Its built in to the harness I provide with the projector for premium owners.

However, if you already have the premium version of the stern projector ( I thought you said you did) it has its own connector you can use to trigger my mod instead of using CN6.

finally got a chance to play this game in Chicago during expo time, at level 257 for a long time. Thought it was a really fun game, easy to understand. Almost finished all four of the characters. Would love to grab one, but the MSRP NIB price on these are pretty high. I haven't called any distro's yet, just curious what is the distro price?

Appreciate the clarification on CN6 use. Since I have an LE it appears the only thing I will have connected will be the Pinstadium lights.

At release time very few were budging much (if any) off MSRP. Demand for Premiums apparently fell off significantly due to the code situation so there may be distributors sitting on unsold games willing to deal. Best bet is to call around. Don't be a tire kicker - if you are ready to buy today at a certain price, make that clear.

Has anyone figured out the total number of parts to the answer the Batphone or to the Batcave sequences? Are the sequences unique by villian? I'm not very good at hitting the Commissioner Gordon target on demand so I've only seen a few segments.

On a related note, how many possible cliffhanger continues for each villian? I know Riddler isn't finished yet.

I’d also buy now before the next update/Lyman finishes the code, once that happens it will be TWD all over again, prices will take a serious jump once demand increases beyond the limited supply that’s out there.

Already seen a number of new owners in this club following the last 2 updates.

FYI, in case you havent seen it yet regarding node board issues and fixes for Batman66 owners.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/holy-node-board-batman-and-ghostbusters-and-aerosmith-and-star-wars

Stern should have mentioned this in their last Stern of the Union update. They could also have used the commisioner Gordon email thing to tell owners about this. Thank goodness for vigiliant pinsiders like Neil who noticed this and shared it.

I agree haven't been advised at all

Thanks Brian and Neil. You would think the service bulletin would be listed under care and maintenance on the Batman page.

I suspect most LE and SLE users will need both. If anyone DOESN'T need these, post your build date so we can get an idea of when the problem was corrected in production.

Capacitor Service Kit 502-7060-00
Core Node Stabilization Kit 502-7061-00

Thanks Neil and Doc! Parts ordered.

Did you call or email Stern directly or is this something they want you to do through your distributor?

I sent a note to my distributor, but I'm guessing you could call 800-KICKERS and order it that way.

If anyone calls direct, please ask if the node kit contains parts for one or both boards.

I emailed Chas with my serial # and referenced the part numbers of each kit. Just received an email and he said they're on the way!

Sorry I'm new to the Stern recall thing. Do you just send an email via the site or do you have to call with a serial number or something? I have dealt with the other vendors and it's usually a simple service ticket request?

I emailed Chas directly at [email protected] with my request and serial number.

I sent you a PM to give me a call. Let me help you with your frustration. lol We Will get you there!!

I would double check the orientation of your plug connecting to CN6. Make sure the black wire is connected to GND (ground) printed on the circuit board.