(Topic ID: 271609)

Batman 66 Diverter Issues

By Nightmare

3 years ago


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#1 3 years ago

Not sure what’s causing this. Recently, the diverter will open when lock is ready. After locking ball, the diverter tries to close but only moves slightly. I looked underneath and everything looks fine. When I manually move the diverter I still
have to move it back to its default position.I didn’t replace the sleeve or coil stopper yet. Do you think it could be the compression spring? It feels like there’s not enough tension to send it back.

#2 3 years ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

Not sure what’s causing this. Recently, the diverter will open when lock is ready. After locking ball, the diverter tries to close but only moves slightly. I looked underneath and everything looks fine. When I manually move the diverter I still
have to move it back to its default position.I didn’t replace the sleeve or coil stopper yet. Do you think it could be the compression spring? It feels like there’s not enough tension to send it back.

Guess it depends how many plays are on it. I would start with looking over the mech diagram in the manual and replace the coil sleeve and make sure it moves freely without binding by hand. Spring could also be off or broken.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Guess it depends how many plays are on it. I would start with looking over the mech diagram in the manual and replace the coil sleeve and make sure it moves freely without binding by hand. Spring could also be off or broken.

I'll start with the coil sleeve. As for a spring being off, the only spring I see is the compression spring. Looking over the manual, I don't see any other spring needed.

2 weeks later
#4 3 years ago

Ok, quick update:

I replaced the Coil Sleeve, Compression Spring, Plunger Link and still getting the same behavior oddly enough.

When I run diagnostics and perform a test for that coil, the diverter will open and close without any problems.

During game play, this is when I experience issues. Lets say that I get the lock opened to lock a ball. Normal behavior would be to close the diverter after getting ball 1 locked. In this case, the lock stays open. Therefore when I plung the ball after getting the first one locked, it goes straight into the spinning table and goes through a ball search before the table spins the ball out. Just curious if anyone else has experienced this same behavior on their machine.

Thanks

#5 3 years ago

I would check to ensure the set screw is in the right place. If I remember correctly when the plunger is fully extended the diverter should be open, but only enough to just be touching that back wall. Mine was overextended causing the reverse issue - it would open and shut immediately. You set it by loosening the screw, opening the diverter, extending the plunger to the right spot, and then re-tightening.

If that is correct I'd go into your switch test and check switches to ensure they are working correctly / nothing is stuck open. I know the left orbit should control its opening and closing - unsure what other switches. I'm guessing the shooter lane.

1 week later
#6 3 years ago

Update:

I was able to finally get my diverter properly working as it should. Thanks for the detail description GoodOmens.

I took the diverter completely apart after finding out that a new coil sleeve, plunger, compression spring didn't do the trick. I noticed while moving the diverter around freely that it was gunk up a little. After moving the diverter freely after this, I position the diverter in the closed position while pulling my plunger as far back as it could go without being out of the coil. I then tighten it and now it's closing/opening correctly. Glad to be batting around again.

1 year later
#7 1 year ago

Nightmare is your diverter still working properly?
I also had the same issue and fixed it. But after a while it starts to not work again.
Now it works during the coil test but in the game it does not open.
Guess it is a shitty mechanism...

(the good part is that the machine works without it. You just don't have physical locks which sucks, but all features work.)

#8 1 year ago

Yes I have the same issue... switched to virtual locks for now. Mine sticks even when moving it by hand. Also I have to figure out how to replace Node Board 10 (hidden in the turntable). I'll beg for advice about that later!!

#9 1 year ago

I emailed Stern and this is their response:

"Please inspect the diverter assembly located on the under side of the playfield. we are thinking the assembly might have a lose set screw that is causing the diverter blade not to move correctly. See attached PDF."

1 (resized).jpg1 (resized).jpg

In my machine, the problem seems to be this screw that gets loose a little. Even just a few plays after I fix it.

1 week later
#10 1 year ago

Tried again. I give up. I am assuming the machine does not have physical locks and I will live happier like this... in ignorance. hahah

1 month later
#11 1 year ago

This is my first post and I'm new to Pinball and the Batman '66 game. I purchased it in FEB '22 used with 93 plays on it. I had a problem with my diverter in that the two red screws that hold it in place fell out into the cabinet. I couldn't figure out why two screws were in the cabinet or where they came from. Several plays later, the diverter shifted and obstructed my turntable. It took me a while to "fix" the turntable by figuring out that the diverter was the problem. Now when playing a game, the diverter opens and immediately shuts, disallowing me to lock a ball. It appears as if GoodOmens had the same issue. I also appreciate hassanchop for attaching the pictures which helped me view the diverter with better resolution. I'd really appreciate any help you could provide on how to correct the immediate open/close problem.

Quoted from GoodOmens:

I would check to ensure the set screw is in the right place. If I remember correctly when the plunger is fully extended the diverter should be open, but only enough to just be touching that back wall. Mine was overextended causing the reverse issue - it would open and shut immediately. You set it by loosening the screw, opening the diverter, extending the plunger to the right spot, and then re-tightening.
If that is correct I'd go into your switch test and check switches to ensure they are working correctly / nothing is stuck open. I know the left orbit should control its opening and closing - unsure what other switches. I'm guessing the shooter lane.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from hassanchop:

In my machine, the problem seems to be this screw that gets loose a little. Even just a few plays after I fix it.

Hey Hassanchop, sorry for the late suggestion, but have you tried using Loctite medium strength 242 (blue) threadlocker on the screw? I keep a bottle of this in my game room supplies, and I've successfully used it many times on screws that like to come loose on a regular basis.

https://www.mcmaster.com/loctite-242/manufacturer~loctite-/manufacturer-model-number~242/

P.S. The Loctite medium strength 242 which is blue in color is removeable, but the red stuff (I think it's 262) is high strength, and can make screws quite hard to remove. I do not suggest using the red.

#13 1 year ago

I followed the directions by Nightmare but I get the same result. The diverter opens and then immediately closes. Any help would be appreciated. My set screw is tight and has never loosened.

Quoted from Nightmare:

Update:
I was able to finally get my diverter properly working as it should. Thanks for the detail description GoodOmens.
I took the diverter completely apart after finding out that a new coil sleeve, plunger, compression spring didn't do the trick. I noticed while moving the diverter around freely that it was gunk up a little. After moving the diverter freely after this, I position the diverter in the closed position while pulling my plunger as far back as it could go without being out of the coil. I then tighten it and now it's closing/opening correctly. Glad to be batting around again.

#14 1 year ago

I checked the set screw as GoodOmens suggested and it seems to be solid. I can't figure out why the diverter paddle opens and quickly shuts. The solution seems more electrical than mechancial. Any idea of what I'm missing?

1 week later
#15 1 year ago

It seems like the coil opens with the current and then the current stops straight after and the diverter closes. It's so annoying.

Quoted from Rum-Z:

have you tried using Loctite medium strength 242 (blue) threadlocker

Thank you. Will check and try this.

#16 1 year ago

Maybe we need to start making some videos to show what is happening? And then I could round them all up and send to Stern hahaha

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