Terrible advice. Why not just have him drag a screwdriver across some of the boards and blow stuff up that way instead.

Green wires are always switch wires in Williams games and never for coils. Had he followed your advice he would have blown up several chips on the driver board and if the PIA went out the game might not have booted up anymore.

look here for the wire hookups

http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=857&picno=50056&zoom=1

The 2 thick yellow and yellow/white wires should go to the 2 pin connector on the stock board. On yours these appear to attached to the trailer plug with the black and red wires.

There are 8 wires that go to the pf and backbox lamps (and coin door lamps) (these are attached to the other side of the trailer plug in your machine). These are 4 solid colors and 4 white with a colored stripe (colors are yellow, green, purple, orange/brown). These are normally connected at the 9 pin molex. 4 solid colors on one side and the white ones on the other with a blank pin in the middle, doesn't matter which wires are on the left or which are on the right.

Normally there should be a 3 pin connector with 2 wires that is for the GI relay (the aftermarket board has a 5 pin connnector here), but the 2 empty wires are not the correct color (should be red and black with a stripe). Are those 2 loose wires possibly some of the 8 GI wire. Will have to check the schematic to see where you say they originate from.

Flippers should be active during the test mode, they don't have a coil number in test. They are turned on by a relay and that relay is always active during the test mode. The flippers should always have voltage, the relay supplies them with the ground path.

This part here

"My guess is to one of the flipper coils, since you said they aren't working"

Saying that on an online help site to someone who is a novice at repairs is tantamount to telling that person to hook the wire up to the flipper coil.

There is no hack job in the under the playfield picture, just a loose switch wire that you were sort of recommending that you solder back to the flipper coil.

You never mention what the displays are doing on your game. Pins 4 and 9 of the 12 pin J1 square connector on the power supply is the 90V AC power from the transformer that gets turned into the +100 -100 volts used by the displays.

part number for the 2 pin GI connector

19-09-1029

Can find them here
https://greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=95

Don't forget to order 2 of the .093" crimp on female pins

The X-pin displays only use 5V and not the high voltage so yes the displays work find without those 2 wires connected. Although usually you only have to remove the HV fuse to disable the HV power supply and not cut the 2 wires running to the transformer (thats where those 2 wires belong, start from the transformer and trace your way back to the head to find out where the other half of the wires are).

Coils under 3 ohms tend to act like dead shorts. They would have likely blown a fuse on your new board if they are bad. Remove the wires from the flipper coils (tape and mark them first) then cut one end of the diode off then measure both windings in the flipper. Should be between 3 and 7 ohms on the power side and anywhere from 70 to 700 ohms on the hold side, (usually around 15). Then measure the diode as well.

I had a friend of mine do that on a capcom breakshot. He had a non working slingshot from a loose slingshot switch wire and the first thing he does is look for the closest lug (on the slingshot coil which wasn't even empty) and he soldered it to it and destroyed 2 boards in his game. On Breakshot's unique driver board Capcom changed the switch matrix and left off the buffer chips on half of the switch matrix so the voltage went back through the driver and also into the CPU and took out tons of chips on the address lines. He ended up spending $500+ on new boards to get the game running again.

It's AC so as long as you are sure those are the correct lugs it doesn't matter which one goes where.