(Topic ID: 248486)
Linked Games
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1984
Topic Gallery
Louisville, KY
Kitchener, ON
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:Is that a white cabinet Tom Cat?? Looks killer!
Good eye. That does look like something that we need more pics of too.
I get a lot of questions about that one. Here is the rebuild link. 3.5 months of playfield paint work. That game got a ton of love.
Quoted from Waderade812:I get a lot of questions about that one. Here is the rebuild link. 3.5 months of playfield paint work. That game got a ton of love.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-f-14
That looks amazing, great work man.
Quoted from Twilight1:Looks great how long you going to let it cure for before you rebuild.
I will slowly put it together over the upcoming week. I have to clean the posts and plastics. Although the I could use some new plastics. I may just clean everything up and change the plastics later down the road. The budget is running thin for the time being.
I did add a little extra hardener on the final coat. The other play fields I have done seem to play slower. I use Nason 2K urethane clearcoat and it seems to grip the ball a bit. Makes for more spin and movement on drop and live catches. I am hoping the extra hardener tightens the surface a bit more. So its more like a 4.25-1 instead of 4-1 ratio.
Quoted from Dent00:You have really come a long way from the wasp nests...
I don't think it is possible to put a price on what you have done.
Has to be a labor of love because it would probably never happen otherwise.
I appreciate that, Thank you. Its all enjoyment. I seemed to cycle through hobbies constantly before I stumbled on pinball. It started with a free game. Then investigating tournaments. The socializing that comes from my local pinball scene fuels the desire to play and collect. I have to be careful how I collect machines. It's a building investment, bargain machines so I can , and my friends, experience lots of pinball for a long time.
I am a residential carpenter and worked as a auto mechanic for 3 years. Those skills really help. 
Limassol
Quoted from Waderade812:I will slowly put it together over the upcoming week. I have to clean the posts and plastics. Although the I could use some new plastics. I may just clean everything up and change the plastics later down the road. The budget is running thin for the time being.
I did add a little extra hardener on the final coat. The other play fields I have done seem to play slower. I use Nason 2K urethane clearcoat and it seems to grip the ball a bit. Makes for more spin and movement on drop and live catches. I am hoping the extra hardener tightens the surface a bit more. So its more like a 4.25-1 instead of 4-1 ratio.
I don’t think extra hardener , will result in harder final clear coat. The hardener is a catalyst , making the clear cure in a certain amount of time. In my opinion , The degree of hardness is the same regardless of amount of hardener used if enough time is given for the clear coat to cure completely, sometimes more than 3 months.
Quoted from phototamer:I don’t think extra hardener , will result in harder final clear coat. The hardener is a catalyst , making the clear cure in a certain amount of time. In my opinion , The degree of hardness is the same regardless of amount of hardener used if enough time is given for the clear coat to cure completely, sometimes more than 3 months.
That does make sense. The first playfield I cleared changed quite a bit from the time I sanded till today (almost a year). It has some imperfections that I can see on the correct angle. I know that it was level when it was reassembled. It does not affect play ability and no one else can really see what I'm talking about.
Quoted from Waderade812:That does make sense. The first playfield I cleared changed quite a bit from the time I sanded till today (almost a year). It has some imperfections that I can see on the correct angle. I know that it was level when it was reassembled. It does not affect play ability and no one else can really see what I'm talking about.
I know what you mean. This happens especially with thick clear coats , that take forever to cure.
I like that you're going to leave the wear there even though it's cleared and further damage will be prevented, so it will play really well, but still have a lived in look.
Nice progress, congrats. It's going to be a great machine! Me too I love the "used-but-nice-and-shiny" look... and I'm sure it will play fast.
Treats in the mail today. The last two days have seen a lot of reassembly. (Johnny 5 voice)
The 6 pieces of tape are the last wiring connections. If pinball league wasn't Wednesday nights I would be so close.
The last of the project needs-
New bulbs
New plastics
Please God I hope the three original boards work.
Oh yeah the knocker.
15688400831726312607953540813104 (resized).jpg15688401263395972833141233224621 (resized).jpgI hope your sound board works... the hardest to replace. You can bench test it to be sure. You may at least need to replace its caps.
Good Morning pinsiders.
Yesterday was truly a test of will for me. Now that I have slept, its time to bring the update. The game is working but with some minor issues. But what it took to get there was trying my patience.
I assembled the rest of the mechs and playfield hardware about 10:00 am. By about 12:00 I decided that it was time to wire it up. That took about an hour and a half. So at 1:30 I flipped the switch with just the solenoid driver hooked to the power supply board j3 and j4. The board made a clicking sound but the leds fired up showing I had 5 volts for the mpu and the high voltage. The noise quit after 2 seconds, so It didn't register in my brain.
So I plugged in the mpu and started it again. Nothing just high voltage on the solenoid board. Unhooked the mpu and same symptom. This is where I should have stopped but in my frustration I grabbed the meter and started checking fuses and the power supply board. I changed the blown fuse that supplies the back box. Fired it up and all good. Plugged in the mpu and mpu won't boot. So I grab an alltek out of another game and set it up.
The game starts on the mpu Success!! Lets hook it up. Man I'm dumb. I plug in every connector. Flip it on fuses blow like crazy. 43 volt fuse and the 20 amp J2 power board supply. What happens next over the next 3-4 hours is me cycling through plugging individual connectors to see in which areas my problems lie. WOW fuse after fuse.
Here is what happened.
A few days ago I needed the wiring description for connector J3 on the solenoid board. Another pinsider sent me all the info I wanted. And I wired it up. I made a mistake, Its my screw up. I followed his directions but I put one wire one location high on the connector. Which in turn moved up the 12 wires that came after it up one location. 
I figured this out way to late. So my Solenoid Board is fried I have no desire to work on it.
I move the wires to the correct positions. Grab a solenoid board out of that other game. Fires right up.
I found quite a few issues while I was diagnosing. So it was not a complete waste of time. The coin-door lock out coil was a dead short, blowing the 43 volt. The 20 amp is the playfield GI. Need to find that one. And the center pop bumper coil is a dead short. The sound board also needs to be recapped. As well as a MPU and solenoid driver board from Alltek.
After a good nights sleep I feel a lot better. So yesterday with this game started at 10:00 am and lasted till 9:00 pm after everything was said and done.
1 week later
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:Wow, that sounds tedious!
It doesn't feel so bad now. Sorry for the lack of posts. The project is on hold for the time being. I'm selling a couple games and have another purchased lined up.
I am going to need a set of boards. But with vacation coming up in a few weeks. I need to watch the budget.
Quoted from Waderade812:It doesn't feel so bad now. Sorry for the lack of posts. The project is on hold for the time being. I'm selling a couple games and have another purchased lined up.
I am going to need a set of boards. But with vacation coming up in a few weeks. I need to watch the budget.
No worries, best of luck!
Enjoy your EBD break Please post a full picture of your machine, even if not functional yet... if I'm not mistaken, you did not post one yet! You did an awesome job with the cabinet and playfield.
1 month later
Hey everyone,
I finally got off my butt and started messing around. Yesterday I tracked down my GI problems. Seems that the bulb that was underneath the star rollover was a short. It took some time because it had also fed that short reading into another strand. Due to the shared connection between both sides of the playfield GI. I am glad to have that gremlin gone.
IMG_20191130_094512064 (resized).jpgIMG_20191130_094658184 (resized).jpgThe other item fixed today was replacing the center pop number coil. Which was also a dead short. I checked over the rest of the coils just to double check. Everything looks good so I have my fingers crossed.
I just wish that alltek would have had a black Friday sale. It looks like all they are offering is a free clip board.
So the only items left are new plastics and the three board bundle.
Pretty sure the metal bell standoffs are NLA so hang on to the ones you have.
They can be removed, cleaned and reused.
The easiest way to remove them is to use a lighter and put the flame near the open end of the bell for about 5 to 10 sections. This will heat up the bell and the surrounding plastic so that you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the hot bell and remove it from the plastic.
The easiest way to clean and polish the standoffs is to then put them in a vibratory tumbler with crushed walnut shells and a couple squirts of Flitz polishing liquid. Tumble for about 24 hours and they come out looking better than new.
Now, get a combo wire stripper / crimping tool and use the crimping end to flatten out the top crimped portion of the standoff so that it will fit into the hole of your new plastic pieces. I don't bother trying to re-crimp the standoff to the plastic...the screw into the playfield will keep everything together.
Quoted from Ballypin:Pretty sure the metal bell standoffs are NLA so hang on to the ones you have.
They can be removed, cleaned and reused.
The easiest way to remove them is to use a lighter and put the flame near the open end of the bell for about 5 to 10 sections. This will heat up the bell and the surrounding plastic so that you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the hot bell and remove it from the plastic.
The easiest way to clean and polish the standoffs is to then put them in a vibratory tumbler with crushed walnut shells and a couple squirts of Flitz polishing liquid. Tumble for about 24 hours and they come out looking better than new.
Now, get a combo wire stripper / crimping tool and use the crimping end to flatten out the top crimped portion of the standoff so that it will fit into the hole of your new plastic pieces. I don't bother trying to re-crimp the standoff to the plastic...the screw into the playfield will keep everything together.
Thanks for the info. I have never changed those out before. I am missing about three or four of them. I will try to find some aluminum tubing. I have a flaring tool to try to recreate the shape as close as possible.
Quoted from Waderade812:Thanks for the info. I have never changed those out before. I am missing about three or four of them. I will try to find some aluminum tubing. I have a flaring tool to try to recreate the shape as close as possible.
A pin company in Europe sell them new, can't recall which one.
Just buy some cheap used clear plastics with them on. eBay has a bunch, cost you 15 bucks for a plastic with 5 or 6 standoffs.
Quoted from jj44114:Just buy some cheap used clear plastics with them on. eBay has a bunch, cost you 15 bucks for a plastic with 5 or 6 standoffs.
Yep, I was going to suggest the same thing.
1 week later
A very cool pinsider reached out to me about the metal bells. He sent me 3 of them. Just what I needed. A big shout out to @ODENONMYSIDE513. Thank you Sir.
Quoted from Ballypin:The easiest way to remove them is to use a lighter and put the flame near the open end of the bell for about 5 to 10 sections. This will heat up the bell and the surrounding plastic so that you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the hot bell and remove it from the plastic.
I bookmarked this trick a while ago. Tried it since and it works great.
Perfect solution for us non-smokers who don't own a lighter
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/34#post-4258662
It’s easy to just stick a hot soldering iron into the top of the bell for a few seconds and wiggle it out.
Everything fit right in. No problems. The only thing was the metal standoffs. Melting them back into the new plastics was nerve racking. Haha 
1 month later
Man, I been busy. Unfortunately not on EBD. 
The MPU from Weebly arrived last week. And I also received an order from big daddy. It was a SDB rebuild kit. High power kit, 5 volt kit, and 4 transistors blown. So I changed all the components in those paths. So I got those installed over the weekend.
I have a booting game now! So I'm super pumped. The items I have to work on now is multiple coils not firing. Due to a blown U2.
The other issue is the left flipper not activating. I worked back to the flipper relay not sending power out to the flipper button.
That misplaced wire on the connecter on the SDB really caused some havoc. But I feel like I'm on the downward slope.
4 weeks later
Big strides in the last few days. Fixed a problem with the 7 bank reset. The squawk and talk board is back in operation. Added caps to two switches that were not registering quick enough. Still have quite a few bulbs out. So expect to see a picture wrap up in the next few days.
1 week later
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