(Topic ID: 290794)

Barb Wire Burnt her board....Gottlieb

By lgallegos100

6 months ago


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  • Latest reply 6 months ago by frenchmarky
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    #1 6 months ago

    I was troubleshooting some LED lighting issues with Barb. I had just replaced some incandescent with LEDs that the last owner did not get around to. When I powered it up a electronic burn smell was present. I initially thought it was the quad opto board because some of the lights would not work and I traced them back to a ground in the quad opto board. My opto board would not work correctly with only 3 leds lit and 2 drops hole that would not register. There is an 8 pin and 10 pin mollex connector on the board. I unplugged the 10 pin and all 4 leds lit. I was going to replace it but I went searching for the smell. It was in the back box on the MA-1629 sound board lower input connectors. Both have burn marks and does not look damaged besides the burns but it could have scrambled its memory. Would anyone have any good ideas before I start replacing misc boards????? Thanks from Larry in New Mexico.

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    #2 6 months ago

    The item that burned appears to be near or off the bottom edge of your photo. Possibly Q37 or Q38. If so, you have a bad lamp or lamp socket.. or loose wire.
    See your manual to see which lamps are hanging off the burned transistor in your lamp matrix.

    If you just replace the board - there's a real good chance that the same thing would happen to the replacement as well.

    #3 6 months ago

    Sounds like Big Fatso got ya!!!

    And yeah carefully check every socket you replaced a light in, probably shorted one. You may be able to figure this out also with schematics (trace the fried transistors).

    Like GPE said figure this out before you repair/plop in a new board.

    #4 6 months ago

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    #5 6 months ago

    On Gottlieb system 3 games, there are two 6-pin connectors that can get mixed up between the power supply and driver board. Verify those against the wire colors in the schematics to make sure that they are in the correct spots.

    If you're not sure, do *not* swap them as a test. Those connectors in the wrong spots *will* damage boards.

    Next, verify that the correct jumper plug is installed on the power box. That sets the incoming voltage for the game.

    After that, unplug all the boards but the power supply and aux power supply. Verify all the voltages before proceeding further. There's a chance that the voltages are too high or adjusted too high.

    #6 6 months ago

    Wow you guys are great!!!! I have a direction to go!!!
    Larry from New Mexico

    #7 6 months ago

    The last Gottlieb, you GOTTA fix it!

    #8 6 months ago

    Oh Yeah and Big Fatso did eat my lunch......LOL

    #9 6 months ago

    Ok, does anyone know where I can get the MA-1629 board? I have emails into Marcos and Pinball resource but everyone is showing out of stock. Anyone have a manual for sale????
    Thanks

    #10 6 months ago
    Quoted from lgallegos100:

    Ok, does anyone know where I can get the MA-1629 board?

    They aren't available, unless you find a used one. You can, however, send it out for repair if you need to. But--have you determined that there is an actual problem with the sound board, or if there is a problem elsewhere? Normally, the sound board wouldn't have anything to do with problems on the playfield.

    Quoted from lgallegos100:

    Anyone have a manual for sale????

    PBResource.com

    #11 6 months ago

    I think you need to re-examine Alexanr1's excellent illustration as to where the problem came from. Could use some animation, though.
    The scorching on the MA-1629 board and the two connectors came from the board below and not the MA-1629.
    Unless it is not the obvious scorching from the board below it and there is something else in the photo that you wanted us to see.

    So why are you thinking the problem is MA-1629?

    #12 6 months ago
    Quoted from G-P-E:

    I think you need to re-examine Alexanr1's excellent illustration as to where the problem came from. Could use some animation, though.
    The scorching on the MA-1629 board and the two connectors came from the board below and not the MA-1629.
    Unless it is not the obvious scorching from the board below it and there is something else in the photo that you wanted us to see.
    So why are you thinking the problem is MA-1629?

    Taking a closer look, it appears like a transistor (or more than one) burnt up, and the heat/smoke affected the connectors that are plugged into the sound board.

    #13 6 months ago

    Yep, exactly as mentioned in above posts and clearly shown with a huge red arrow in Alexanr1's post. That's why I wish somebody could do a flaming animation of this one.

    #14 6 months ago

    Well I did find the actual board that has the issue as was explained in Alexandr1's explanation. Thank you very much. As a tech I should be more observant. The MA1358 board is available so I am good there. I was going to attempt to replace the burnt transistors but upon further inspection of the board it has been repaired before and has some haywires and resistors added and repair soldering. I think it would be in my best interest to buy a new one. The field lighting that was an issue did have some non working sockets so I will replace some of them. I did have a non-working LED that broke in two that may have shorted it as well. Would anyone know if the Rottendog Driver for Gottlieb Premier System 3, MA-1358, GDB003 is compatible? It has the same connectors but a different component lay out.
    CONDITION: New

    In stock
    $110.00

    Thanks for the help.
    Larry

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    #15 6 months ago

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    #17 6 months ago

    Rottendog driver board: https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/RotDogBoards.html

    I think Swemmer might also make driver boards, but I'm not seeing one listed at the moment.

    #18 6 months ago

    Before you replace - find out exactly who is connected to Q38 and make sure the responsible lamp(s) or sockets have been fixed. Else new board will toastify itself just as quickly as the old one did.

    #19 6 months ago

    Should a fuse have blown in this case?

    I'd go over all the fuses in the game to make sure they're the correct amperage rating and type (slow-blow vs fast-blow).

    I'm thinking maybe the fuse that should have blown was replaced with one of a higher amperage (or perhaps it was a fast blow replaced with a slow blow)... Maybe all the fuses are correct, but it would be smart to verify they're all of proper type/rating for future safety.

    I always make it a point to go through all the fuses on any games i bring home. I typically find at least 1 that's incorrect

    Good luck with the repair, and like GPE said--make sure to figure out what the fried transistor was controlling so it doesn't just happen again!

    #20 6 months ago

    Update,,,,My Barb Wire manual came in. I replaced transistor #38 on the board that was burnt. It took some creative soldering to get the traces to solder. I also checked my lamps and found one non working that fell apart and may have been a short. I haven't been able to follow the schematic to the component #38 switches. I guess I missed that class. I am not a pinball tech, I am a board level not component level tech in a different field. I will re-check the fuses amperages and all are slo-blo but I did replace one when I first started this problem.

    Barb is working in full capacity at present. I have a new board on-order with Big Daddy. I will leave the old-Mr. Burns board in play until I am comfortable it is not going to burn again.

    Thanks everyone for your expertise and patience. Pinball machines are my new hobby.
    Larry

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    #21 6 months ago

    Barb says "Yayyy!"

    Hey there! Got a moment?

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