Glad your back in action Eddie, would like to see a pict of that plastic item to see how its made and can be fabricated.
keep up the good work up there, I might have to put that locktite plastic bonding stuff in my arsenal of parts and products.

Ken

I appreciate the reminder. I could easily have overlooked that detail when I move it next time.

Nice recovery, though!

count me in for remake or two to have on hand. Sorry, at least its back in biz

Wow that looks like something that should be machined from metal, time to break out the plastic printers

Yes, the 3D printers are defiantly the answer to many impossible to find parts these days.

Somewhere in my parts satsh I have one . If I can find ill lyk. Happened to me in the day as well back in 1989. Ordered 2 at the time. less than 10.00 a piece

If there is 2 in there

BSD I believe uses the same mech. It's not exposed as much but could increase the amount of buyers if these were to be re-made. The BR goes through lots more cycles (no pun intended) per game than BSD.

-c

Is it just the motor that's different? the Rod looks very similar.

-c

You can 3D print and then use "lost wax" to cast the part in metal.

Cast parts are just slightly smaller than the "lost" part (you can look up the % losses for different metals), so usually you make the lost part slightly larger to make up the difference.

I have had great success with cyanoacrylate glue on pins. Haven't found anything that it hasn't worked on yet.

I use a different brand which is sold at specialist engineering shops here in NZ.

According to the fantastic interweb (how did we live without it?) you can get it in the USA.

http://www.cyberbond1.com/adhesives/cyanoacrylate-adhesives.aspx

I use the 2028 glue.

Good luck!

rd.

This stuff should hold it too:
71wdule-0HL._SL1500_[1].jpg

Not only strong enough to hold part of an engine block together, it can handle up to 500°F temperature

Plastic is tricky to bond. You have to use a plastic cement that actually slightly melts the 2 substrates back together, otherwise it will keep on failing. Have you tried contacting a plastic fabrication shop in your area? They usually sell such cements that work well, the main ingredient is usually MEK or Acetone.

JB Weld is not going to work on plastic.

that can be printed in ABS (very hard and durable) but you are talking HOURS of CAD drawing that. CA is not gonna hold that as there is just too much torque on it. Metal tabs MAY work but you will need to drill and tap. Contact zapdbf.com to see if he can help you with the 3D printing.

I would be interested in two of these ball carriers if anyone reproduces them.

I would be interested as well, I know I'll get around to doing something I'll regret with my game sooner or later.

Steve

I'd love if one was made!

JB weld does work on plastic, I've used it numerous times and nothing else held. I'm blown away by the stuff I have repaired with it and always have some on hand.

The JB Weld in the picture above will not work with plastic, only metal.

JB Weld does make a special epoxy just for plastics, but not this one.

Ambroid liquid cement is the best for plastic, it is an acetone glue. You can get it at the local hobby shop. Works great for playfield plastics too.

Best plastic glue I have ever found.

No reason to 3-D print it. With the right wax, you can do it as it is, repair it as best possible.

Try the right glue before you drill it.

If you end up trying to repair it, what I might try is to drill holes in both parts and tie them together with wire and then epoxy, JB Weld would be a good choice for that method. On very clean breaks I would definitely try CA + a hardener first, but I would think that wire + JB would hold until you find a replacement..

I'm not sure how the part mounts in the game, but if the channel on the underside is not important you could literally fill that with JB weld and that would add some gusto.

My condolences and good luck.

When I got my Banzai delivered from an game co in Calif, they shipped it with the ball carrier down and when i opened up the head it snapped off just like yours. This was 12 years ago so I don't remember what glue I used could have been JB Weld. Also when I fix things with glue(from Goop to Epoxy) I like to add support with a piece of lexan or metal . Looks like you could lay it on the top as the bridge and then glue the heck out of it . Mine has held for 12 years now of constant operation at Lyons Classic Pinball arcade.
Good luck and I would be in for a reproduction if one were available.

Good advice. I would maybe drill a 3mm hole in both pieces, right down the centre, and insert a 50mm long (2") steel rod (3mm round obviously) down the centre and then glue it up. That would give 25mm (one inch) of support either side of the break.

EDIT: doooh I thought it was the shaft that was broken. Non Comprende!

rd.

The proble now is the residue of the previous glues interfering with the new better glues. Have to strip old glue away before tryin new glue.

Um, it says plastic right there on the package?

Jb weld won't hold. You need a glue that will slightly melt the plastic. The local plumbing store will have a heavy duty glue that they use for indoor PVC that is perminant if you want something stronger than the hobby shop glue.

Someone with solidworks and some calipers ( assuming they had the part in hand) could model that in approximately 2 hours.

Then have it printed in ABS using an FDM style printer, insert helicoils, Done. I think the std rate for a printed ABS part is $30 a cubic inch.

Concrete, too!

I have a 3d printer. It will make just about anything. I can use PLA or ABS both of which has their own intrinsic positives send negatives. My prussa I3 xl can print extended size of 12x8x8. I can expand to thee heads (different colors) but reduces the first axis by a substantial amount for each head as the heads are stationary on that axis and the bed moves.

Anyway, the drawings must be in 3d or redrawn as the software that runs the printer accepts stl files. Basically the software gets the file which describes a solid. The software then "slices" it to figure out each layer and where the head must travel to deposit the plastic. It also decides via settings, how much infill is inside the item. Usually a percentage of honeycomb infill although other variations are available.

My printer layers are just under 100 microns. 80 if it is tuned and calibrated well.

A quick description of how it works. The head is a heated tip. Think glue gun. The glue stick is just a long 3mm continuous filament. There is a pinch device to feed it through the head at a controlled rate. The temperature of the head is controlled and monitored. The head moves left to right. The table moves forward and backwards. Those two motions make it possible to print fill Cartesian plots. The table also moves down.

The printer lays down the first slice. The table moves down how ever far the resolution setting is. The printer then lays down the next slice or layer. If there is an overhang or something that will need a temporary support during printing, the software will print that sop port and it just pops off. Picture printing a candy cane in layers. The first cylinder is easy. Layer after layer it is just a circle. But when you get to printing the return section, the first layer is just floating in space until you print the top arc where it all connect together. That is where the printer would print a removable support structure so that little section is not floating in space.

Sorry if this was long winded, but the bottom line is that with a good 3d drawing, these parts would be a "start printing at bedtime" and look at it just before morning coffee routine.

I would be happy to answer anymore questions. I don't want to hijack the thread though.

As much as I love my 3d printer...

Why not make a silicone mold of this puppy and then pour it out of alumilite? This stuff is not cheap but it is almost indestructible but it machinable. I have used it a bunch of times and the process is quite easy.

Being so complex, the mold would be a one time thing but would be a fun project.

3D printing is super easy. Just download a free program like Sketchup, and start watching tutorials online.

Once you've modeled the part, sending it to shapeways.com to be printed in their SLS "Strong and Flexible" plastic would work.

http://www.shapeways.com/shops/Dutch-Orange

This guy can probably do it.

That's what I thought too. However, I've actually tried it with plastic and it's garbage.

Try it out for yourself and let me know how it worked for you.

If anyone wants a 3d model of this part, I'd be happy to model it in solidworks. I'd even print one out of ABS so you have an extra.

watch out the PPS police might sue you

If you can do without the part for awhile, mail it to me. I'll measure it and build a solidworks model for it, and if I can get an estimate on needed quantity, I'll get it quoted in aluminum, steel, plastic, or whatever.

I'd be willing to bet they would buy a bunch.

lol, thats me, I was reading this thread thinking I could do that but there seems to be a solution and a few other offering.

I also have a new PLA that has another compound in it to give it ABS qualities, as the down side with ABS is possibly going to be some slight shrinkage and warp - PLA is more stable but it's downside is being a bit brittle - hence why I am changing to this different material.

In addition you can program the density of your print as it will look at the shape being hollow with thin walls- make this 50-75% minimum density fill and it will be very very strong.

I am also running solidworks so if you need something drawn I can assist as well.

Nice job with the steel!

rd

Sorry, you didn't indicate that you had tried it before. I have trouble with unsubstantiated assertions.