Something is not right with that connector. From memory the only connector of that type is for the lamp power matrix capacitor.

Yeah but if you look at the color of the wires at J8K connector in the picture it looks like my random connector. Looks like I am just going to make a new connector for it to fit onto J8K

It does appear that someone hacked together the GI strands into one plug. Just be sure to trace them back and make sure they are heading to the lower playfield. It's hard to tell from the photo; but, it also looks like J8 has been repaired with new headers behind the yellow/yellow-white strands. Do you know if someone had attached the odd Molex connector directly to the header pins? My SWDE had a similar hack job on it's GI strands. Someone took them all and wrapped them into a connector and then soldered the other end onto the header pins directly on the board. It does go a long way to show how fragile/bad the IDC connectors are at handling heat when someone with a bunch of solder and tape can wrap all of them into two pins and not have it also catch on fire.

Unless you are certain that J8's header is new and that the traces to the pins are in good condition by pulling the board, I would then go through the trouble of making a new connector with the 9 pin Molex with Trifurcon pins as the GI is using the loop backs to split the load across all of the headers. The loopbacks can be a bit tricky; but, you want to make sure to do them right and split them on their own pin and strand to prevent the heat from building back up.

When I was trying to sort out my game's issues, I had tackled the GI first and LOVED working on the awkward positioning of the interconnect board and the wiring harness deep in the extended backbox. It looks like you should have enough strand length to make it work; but, it's going to be tight working on it. Pulling the upper playfield like you did is the best you can do to make some room.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/banzai-run-controlled-lamp-matrix-issue-help-needed#post-6613020

What jedimastermatt said.

I really don't like posting. It takes time to write (type) and verify (proof read).

I would strongly recommend that you do NOT randomly connect things. The image that you originally provided for the connector is poorly illuminated and out-of-focus. The focal plane is on the board behind and not on the connector in your hand. Manually turn on the flash and make sure the camera has the focal plane on the connector. Alternatively you can describe what you see with a poorly illuminated image. I see electrical tape there. Whenever I see electrical tape the first thing I do is remove it. It's usually hiding something horrible.

I think you miss understood what o said. Someone else made a random connector for my game and I am going to redo it and get it back to an orginal connector.

It's your machine. You do what you want with it. You asked the forum for help but didn't provide much information (and didn't get much response either). You can see what is clearly in front of you. The forum can only see what you post in images. Otherwise it must rely on the words you type. If you want verification for anything you plan to do you should provide as much information as you can. I am just trying to help you. If you want to draw your own conclusions then why bother asking for help?

Sorry if this sounds a little ungrateful. I just spent time trying to help you only to have you say "thanks but no thanks". This is why I generally stopped helping people. It's just more evidence for me to stop helping people. "Why bother helping people if they aren't going to take the advice?" I have asked myself that many times. I guess I should keep asking myself that more often.

I think you really need to trace those wires back to confirm that they the GI. Much easier to do that then go to the trouble of re-pinning only to then find that they are not correct.

Yes, all the boards have been professional been repaired and making this connector isn't a big deal to me I've done a lot of them over the years. Thanks for your input.

Yeah that connector you are talking about I already have in place.. Just looks like someone made up this connector and tried to use it for the GI

Seems to be working, that connector was for the GI. Now the only issue I am having is the displays aren’t working. I bought some used displays from someone on here so I guess I am just trusting they worked before I got them. My cabinet test buttons aren't working either, maybe I have something hook up wrong. Any thoughts guys?

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Picked up a dirty half working BR out of an operators backroom. At some point I'll document the restoration but right now I'm just trying to get it up and running working through it and have most of it nailed down but for whatever reason I can't get the hill flippers to function when I get the ball up there. Is there a relay that swaps power to the upper playfield? Also the flippers were firing in attract mode so I'm guessing its a relay issue. Any help would be appreciated, thanks everyone! And happy to be in the club!

One of the relays on the interconnect board controls the switching of flipper power between the upper and lower playfields.

Hello BR owners! I have a quick question, not a big deal and it doesn't bother me much but I am wondering what metal part is supposed to go here and utilize this small hole. I imagine it is not a necessary part, since I have been playing my machine for many months without it. I thought at first it was from a prior owner but notice in a few pics there is some sort of thin metal post that is in some pics.

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Looks like a bent wire form.
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Thanks, that makes sense. I thought there was only one hole but it seems this wireform wraps towards to the top of the in lane. My other "hole" seems to be filled, by what I'm guessing is a piece of said wireform. I now think the wireform snapped at some point and the previous owner took out the piece but left the small nub in the other hole at the break.

I'll see if I can find one of these, thanks again!

Maybe this pic helps.

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Wow chad and EEE you both have really nice PFs -- both look clear-coated.

To represent the owners with routed machines and OG playfields, here is mine. While I can't turn back time on it without doing a restore, I was able to stop the bleeding with the basics like Cliffys, keeping it waxed and changing the balls often. I do love this game very much, just when I think it starts to get old I win a few races, hear that victory lap music and I'm sucked right back in.

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Thank you , but it is not mine. I found the picture on page 2 of this thread. Yours is looking good.

Thanks! It has it's minor flaws but nothing noticeable unless you are trying to find issues with it.

With that in mind, I was considering getting a spare playfield and looked at both CPR and Mirco. Does anyone have any input or comparison between the two? I thought I would go CPR but when zooming in on the photos there seem to be more inconsistencies on the PF artwork vs. Mirco.

This took a while. 33 million and holy shit did I have to piss. Blairally
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I imagine you did. You rolled it 3 times? How many King of the Hill beatings approximately?

Just three, but I got an EB each time.

Your number of laps would have been huge!!!

As a follow up, I wanted to thank chad and EEE again for helping me identify the missing bent wire form. Of course Marco's was sold out so I bought a longer one, re-bent it, and cut off the excess. Looks great and feels smoother.

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That new playfield sure looks good. !!

Ah if only...this is the OG playfield. It is in B+ condition so I will keep it OG.

Does anyone know the part number of the capped nuts which go on the inside of the upper cabinet holding it in position? And where they might be available from?

What's the verdict on shipping a BR? Thinking of picking one up that will be shipped from OR to CA. Given that it is not very stable folded and on it's back it seems like the less risky path is to ship with the legs on and head folded down (STI has shipped my games like this in the past). Otherwise you run the risk of some dummy letting the cab tip over if they aren't expecting it.

Take freestyle ball out
Move ball carrier to top position
Leave upper PF glass on, place a pillow or some foam between main glass and top glass when folded
No blanket between cab and head
Optional - remove captive ball
Obvi - remove normal balls

Anything else I should be aware of? Anyone had these shipped with STI do they have any issues with the additional weight?

Just joined the club - going to do a bit of restoration on my cabinet which has some rough spots. I'm wondering if anyone has done anything to help the wear around the inside of the backbox where it rubs on the lower cab when you lower it or when you rotate the upper PF down. I'm getting lots of scuffs and scratches there since it's so tight...

I have the same issue on a few of my machines. I wonder if skid tape for surfboards or skateboards would work? A thin strip applied to the edge.

Where can you purchase Banzai Run replacement displays. I got one out entirely, and one on its last legs.

I’ve been looking for the LED replacement displays but the are all out of stock.

Plan A is I would like to convert to LED, but plan B is does any have two good original displays?

Appreciate the tips.

Thanks!

ron

Pinball Solutions seems to have a led set in stock. Haven't dealt with them, so I can't say anything about their quality or service level.

https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/led-display-for-williams-banzai-run/

Good guy. Order with confidence.

Aaaand it's gone. Hope you snatched it, Golferron54

Does anyone have any pictures of the carrier tube assembly? Our game came with the carrier body(that swinks remade) but does not have the carrier tube assembly at all. No magnet core or any hardware. I have the part numbers listed below but have found nothing anywhere online. I appreciate any help!!!
Coil & Connector Assembly - A-12158
Magnet Core - 02-4340
Carrier Tube - 03-8167
Thanks,
Shane M

use pinball search to find the parts - is a good search site for parts globally

A-12158
https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=A-12158

02-4340 - no luck
https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=02-4340

03-8167
https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=03-8167

Hi Shane,
Too difficult for me to open my own game...but here's some photos previously uploaded here by me or others. Hope these help.

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Anyone else have a problem with the ball getting stuck bouncing back and forth between the upper right pop and the rubber to the right of it (like in the right "orbit")?

Balls will frequently get caught endlessly in this area, bouncing back and forth 100+ times. Wouldn't be a problem if this was at home, but it's in a public arcade.

A few months ago, I replaced the rubber there and the problem went away, but after a few months, it has starting happening again.

I'm wondering what the correct rubbers are for this area. The manual isn't helpful. I've got one five inch big boy in there, but maybe I should be using two smaller rubbers? Attached is a pic. I added those three small rubbers behind the big one to try to influence the bounce more. The two on the right side of the pic did nothing but the one on the left side (on the metal post) does seem to have helped.

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I've never had a ball get stuck there. This is the rubber setup I used there when I shopped the game. Simple.

Your rubber choice may have created a "pocket"where the ball remains trapped and always rebounds to the same spot.

Another option is to use 2 smaller rings going around the bottom 3 posts and the top 3 posts.

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Thanks. I'm thinking I'll try two smaller rings like you suggested.

Do you know what size your ring is? (I could also try one that's a half inch or full inch shorter than what I have in there).

I've seen it bounce back and forth a bit on mine, but not to the extent you have mentioned. I have the single rubber fitted.

About to be done with my banzai project, waiting on some parts that I didn’t realize I was out of stock on and a last order from comet. Overall happy with how it’s turning out. Playfield is near mint but Mylar is a eyesore to me but too scared to peel it up lol

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I removed the mylar from my BR about 2 years ago. I didn't lose any paint...but it is a huge job. I think I spent an hour removing the mylar and 10 hours removing the adhesive! I had a bunch of raised inserts and my mylar was bubbled so it was necessary on my machine. The colors look fantastic without the mylar, but it's a big commitment. I've seen where people claim it's a bad idea, but I've now removed it from Pinbot, Banzai, Creature, Whirlwind, Radical, and F-14 and only lost the insert decals on Whirlwind.

Congrats on your Banzai anyway...looks great! And you have a great collection btw. We have similar taste I think.

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DuffysArcade I think it might be worth it on mike to remove Mylar, I have a couple inserts lifting and I think it would be for the best to remove it. I’ve done it on a couple game and I usually just lose some insert decals

I bought my BR in parts years ago. Like: literally every one of its parts was apart from any other, up until the last screw. A previous owner who planned to restore it had already removed the mylar. Insert decals had partly come off from removing the mylar.

It did come with new insert decals, but to get them on properly I had to remove all the inserts from the playfield to sand them individually before putting the new decals on. Although I was quite determined to restore the machine (it's an all-time favorite), it was quite the project.

It's now beautifully restored with a clearcoated playfield. And: it was worth it. Not only because it looks the part (colors really do pop without the mylar), but also because a clearcoated playfield plays so much better than a mylared one, in my opinion.

Go for it if you really love the machine, are willing to put time in it and think it's a real keeper. If you're not sure about that, do think twice. Like I said, it's quite a challenge.

I do really love the game, it’s one of my favorites so I do really want to restore it. I thought about new playfields but these ones are already in such good shape I just need the Mylar off and clear really, I’ve taken Mylar off other games without many issues but system 11 games always trouble me. I ripped up insert decals on my fire and I tried to replace them but every set of decals I got were too opaque and just didn’t look right

stop ignoring my texts Harrison . i might want that nine ball pinball.

okay i will stop ,Harrison
i sent a message to your pinside . so text me back when you have read it.

I am finally going to be restoring my project this year and I am slowly collecting parts that I need. My project is a basket case and most notably, it was missing the ramp. I've already bought a new one, but I don't know how to attach the lights, or are those flashers?
If you can provide any of the following information, I would greatly appreciate it!
- what does it look like under one of the domes on the ramp? Are those flashers and if so, what do they attach to? Are all of the domes connected and if so,
where do they attach under the playfield?
- did anyone ever have any luck finding someone to manufacture the lift channel/playfield glass metal bar?
- can a new rider decal on the magnet be obtained?
- does anyone know where I can get a decent System 11 coin door that won't break the bank?

That's all that I can think of for now. I have been sitting on a lot of great projects for many years now and I am determined to get them all done by the end of the year: BR, Centaur, GNR, Ice Cold Beer, KISS, Scared Stiff (x2!), Space Invaders, Strato-Flite, and Xenon. Most are in the works currently, such as Centaur, SS (both at the same time), and Xenon. I know that parts are out there, it's just a matter of time!
Thanks!

I’m clearing out my parts bin. This is a partial set of used plastics and some wiring, flasher boards & switch from the ramp.

Make a reasonable offer and add for usps shipping.

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