(Topic ID: 197605)

Bank shot center rack lamps wont light

By pinstyle

6 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by pinstyle
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#1 6 years ago

In solving a problem i seemed to have created another. None of the hold coils on the underside of the playfield will activate when a rollover or target is triggered. So in turn the lamp for that target or rollover does not go out, and the corrosponding lamp in the center pool ball rack does not light. The lamps will work as they should if i manually activate the coil. This feature did work at one time but i seemed to have killed it. I have no schematics, any help is appreciated.

#2 6 years ago

Score motor swithces? Playflied switches seem to do their job, they trigger and score. I just seem to be missing a small element here. There is voltage to the coils, it is around 90v but it is possible i am not checking it right. I am not 100% sure which is common for these coils.

#3 6 years ago

It's difficult to troubleshoot this problem without a schematic. This might be similar to some Gottlieb machines that have a sequence unit. Check score motor switch 4C and relay E. Maybe someone here can post a portion of the schematic from Bank Shot or Sure Shot that shows the target and rollover circuits...

You should be getting 110-120 AC volts on any of the large relay reset bank colis or target bank reset coils (solenoids). And 25 AC volts for the rest of the coils, and 6 AC volts for the lighting. Input voltage at the transformer should 110-120 AC volts...

#4 6 years ago

Thank you sir. Yea this is my first em experience. I see toning a wire out doesnt work since one wire will tone everywhere. So following color codes on wires and some logical thinking is all i have to go on. I have been doing very well so far considering. I took a machine that would not even start a game and got it going. Aside from killing this feature along the way.

I am good on the higher voltage. I am going to try and test again at this bank of coils the playfield switches run through. All the coils do is pull in a small plate which changes the state of a set of swithces which tells the rollover or target light to go out, and its corrosponding number insert in the center rack to light up. The problem is common to them all since none of the coils will energize, so thats a good thing.

#5 6 years ago

ignore post.. I though this issue was with the lamp sockets.. not the relays.

#6 6 years ago

I think power to this bank of coils is the problem. If i test common to 25v at transformer i get 20v. 20v also tested at the 25v fuse. 8.??v tested at this bank of coils. Not sure where i am losing what looks to be half the voltage..

Gezz ive spent the better part of my life on this one. I guess i will chalk this job up to "one for the customer, and one to save another machine".

#7 6 years ago

Something is sucking up my voltage. If i remove the 24v fuse and test on line side i get 24v. On the other side i get 5.??v.

#8 6 years ago

The red wire between the transformer and the fuse block should have approximately 24 volts at each end. Check the voltage right at the transformer. Then 24-25 volts should come out the other side of the fuse block and it will go to a bounce switch. This bounce switch should have a red/black wire and red/white wire attached to its switch stack. Check to make sure this bounce switch is clean and adjusted properly. Also, check the S relay and R relay to see if the switch contacts are clean and adjusted properly...

#9 6 years ago

Alright i took the slam tilt switch out of the equation since it is not needed and i did have a very slight voltage drop across it. Something i did notice is my voltage drops to 17v once i coin up a game. I removed the head and playfield to try and narrow down the problem so whatever it is seems to be isolated to the lower cabinet. If i remove the 24v fuse, i have 25v on line side and 5v on the other which seems very odd? How would there be 5v on that side? Should be zero, no? It indicates to me that possibly the 6v is shorted to it somewhere? Cant find anything though but i do not know a hole lot about these. I can work my way through problems but like you said without a schematic it is very difficult. Sleepy time.

#10 6 years ago

To test if there's a short between the 25 volt and 6 volt sides, you can just remove the two fuses on the 6 volt side and then test the voltage again on the 25 volt side. The two 6 volt fuse blocks should have white wires connected to them...

#11 6 years ago

Brilliant, thanks man. I am sitting here eating my late breakfast pondering my problem (should be listening to wife). I think i have what i call EM madness, i just have to figure this out. I appreciate your help.

#12 6 years ago

Alright so i was using wrong wire as common. Blk/wht is common. I have 30v at 25v fuse, all is ok, zero volts on load side with fuse removed.

My 25v seems to be dropping out somewhere i am just not sure where. I started to test point to point moving through from the fuse but i need to put this down for a bit. I have been at it for a while. I have learned a shit ton working on this thing but im burnt...

When i test at this bank of coils (they are all linked since they are so close together) i get 5v.

#13 6 years ago

How about the playfield Jones plugs? Unplug the playfield Jones plugs from the main board, make sure they are clean, and then reseat the Jones plugs again back into the main board...

#14 6 years ago

Ok so i cleaned up some pins (again) on the plugs, soldered some shady looking points and got a good solid 25v at the coils when a switch is triggered. It looks like the coils dont have enough power to pull the plate down and release the spring loaded latch to change the state of the switches. If i hold the latch open to take pressure off the plate it still wont pull to the coil. I can feel it pulling towards it but it seems to be just not enough. Thinking back i do recall this problem arising when i flipped this bank of coils down to take a closer look at them.

This bank of coils it tied to the coil which pulls in P relay. So any time one of these coils is energized, P pulls in. Which it has been all along, so my voltage was ok, low but ok. P is labeled series relay. I am not sure what coil should be in the P relay, there was a A-1118 in this position but it buzzed like a SOB, my guess is its becasue it was the wrong coil (couldnt cleanly pull the relay closed). So i changed it to a A-9735.

#15 6 years ago

Schematic calls for a 9746 coil on the P relay.
You mentioned flipping down the bank of coils, double check that the rack is back in its correct position, or strange behavior can result.
Here's a shot of the rollover switches and P relay, sorry for the poor quality.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

#16 6 years ago

Thank you, i really appreciate the help guys. I see now, yea the coil i have in there now is way too high of ohms in comparison to what should be there. We need to free the flow of electrons here

This is likely the problem..

#17 6 years ago

Got it, thank you gentlemen.

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