There's no on/off switch on that era Gottlieb (at least not originally). There's just the knock off switch on the bottom panel board (bounces up to open the switch sitting above it).

To turn back on, the games need to be "coined up", meaning the coin mech trip switch needs to close. Or if there are credits already, then the replay button on the coin door should turn it back on (and start a game).

Even if the coin mechs are removed, the trip wire/switch should still be there on the door (unless all the door parts are stripped). Can just manually flick them closed.

How did it get started the first time?

Can also manually trip the Start relay.

Otherwise, manually reset the Control Bank, make sure the score motor is in the 'home' position (position 1 stack is in a cam 'notch') and then try it.

Also make sure the knockoff switch didn't get stuck in the up position, keeping the shutoff switch open. That switch needs to be closed.

The coin door anti-cheat switch should be closed. The bounce switch on the bottom panel should also be closed (if it's the style that faces down). And the shutoff switch on the bottom panel should be closed.

Try the other stuff I outlined above.

There should be two. The knockoff switch should be next to the play meter near the front, and the bounce switch should be behind the score motor (bounce switch has a silver weight on it).

And from the coin door picture, all the coin mech brackets and switches are stripped away, so the game had to have had some wiring mod done on it to put it on free play.

With only the start button left, it would typically be the middle switch on the Credit Unit in the backbox.

A 50/50 mix of CLR and water will zap all that oxidation in seconds.

Does that switch have a Nylon bushing below it with a shaft in it? That's the knockoff (shutoff) switch, and does need to be closed. That's the switch that powers off the game (by slapping the bottom of the game). Or was it the one with the silver weight on one blade?

For the replay button not working, along with credits, there's probably going to need to be a normally closed switch on the Start relay (when it's untripped), and a normally closed switch on the Ball Release (switch stack on the ball gate). And a normally closed switch on the W relay (if it's outfitted with one).

Great, glad you found it. The Ball gate switch stack tends to get mangled, due to it's location, so it's a common issue.

The Nylon post that the score reel plunger slips over probably broke off. It's a bit of a pain to replace, on that 'rat trap' style score reel, but that post frequently breaks due to wear, so there's not much way around it. If Pinball Resource doesn't have it, there are plenty of used ones floating around.

The contact paper may come off and reveal a fine original paint underneath (which could be kept as original...).

That playfield will clean up a lot more.

well, that is a tricky one to ring...

Maybe this will help.

IMG_3465.jpg

Just call Pinball Resource.

Yes, this part breaks.

PBR is the best.

Bah, I spoke with Steve this morning when I made a parts order. We had a lovely chat and he was in good spirits.

Once the switch stack is tightened, and the blades straightened out and gapped, they should behave.

And those aren't the after-market metal covers ops could place over the woodrails either. Those look like transplanted metal side rails and lockdown from another game (although Gottlieb had them available in their parts catalog). It's probably the early metal lockdown with the two bolts, so it would line up with the wood lockdown bar holes.

Spot a Card is a neat game though. It has a bit of a variation with the kickout holes that pass the ball left to right, in that the ball kicks out to the mini post below one hole, and you can bounce it back up into the next hole, and so on until it reaches the far right. So more involvement from the player to accomplish.

Or not.