Maglód
Hi!
Today I bought a Bally, for restauration.
Anybody own a flipper like this? 
(Topic ID: 8847)
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X's & O's
Bally, 1983
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Winston-salem, NC
Quoted from MrTechnoBarn:I had one, it's a decent playing pin for the money...
He Sure did ,, I Sold it to him... Now where's that pict ,,,
Leicester
I try to repair it, i've got a few question...
I turn it on, try to run a self test, looks like everything is ok. But it don't test the flipper arms. Is that normal?
If I try to start to play, I can add credit, and push start.
The game starts, but nothing happens. It start to count, i see 00 on the display, but nothing else, it now shoot the ball stays at the middle (but at self test it shoots to the catapult, as well).
What can be the problem, where should I start to search the error?
Mal
Flippers are not MPU controlled so won't fire in solenoid test, you should be able to press the buttons and them work though.
If it's not kicking the ball to the shooter lane then first establish you have power to the coil, then check the connector on the solenoid driver board.
Quoted from epotech:Flippers are not MPU controlled so won't fire in solenoid test, you should be able to press the buttons and them work though.
If it's not kicking the ball to the shooter lane then first establish you have power to the coil, then check the connector on the solenoid driver board.
Thanks for the fast answer! Then how can I test the flippers? When can I move it? Only during play, or under solenoid test, or any time...?
When I run the solenoid test, it kick the ball to the lane... Only if I start a game, then not working. It not kick the ball, i cannot move the flippers, and it not count score, if I hit the targets with my hands. Just I see the 00 on the display...
the flippers should work in solenoid test or during game (obviously).
If the solenoid is working in test then i'd suspect the switch that detects the ball in the trough, put it in switch test and see if it registers. Remember that the highest made swith shows in the display so you may need to reset the 3 drop targets and clear any stuck switches first.
Quoted from epotech:the flippers should work in solenoid test or during game (obviously).
If the solenoid is working in test then i'd suspect the switch that detects the ball in the trough, put it in switch test and see if it registers. Remember that the highest made swith shows in the display so you may need to reset the 3 drop targets and clear any stuck switches first.
Hm, thanks, so first I need to fix the flippers, because they cannot work during solineid mode...
Maybe some fuse problem, i hope... And good idea, maybe it can't detect the ball, because in solineid mode, it kick it, even if the ball is not there.
And the switch test... How I can do it? As I read, need to push the service button, X times, and every switch has a number? But after that, what should I see? Or how can I test it...?
As I told, this is my first pinball, so I don't know a few basic thing... 
Thanks a lot
Mal
Yes, press the test button X times, you should se a number flashing in the displays, this is the number of the highest switch made. You'll need to look up the numbers in the manual, clear any switches until you get 00 then try the trough switch.
As for the flippers give the bottom left hand connector (by the mpu) a wiggle and see if the relay clicks in.
Quoted from epotech:Yes, press the test button X times, you should se a number flashing in the displays, this is the number of the highest switch made. You'll need to look up the numbers in the manual, clear any switches until you get 00 then try the trough switch.
As for the flippers give the bottom left hand connector (by the mpu) a wiggle and see if the relay clicks in.
Wow, thanks, now I understand, how the self test works! Hm, now clear: it said, 15, means TILT. But it looks good, what can be the problem with it? And how can I clear that error? And how should it looks like? The hanging weight looks ok, the ball is missing from the lane(if it should be there), means that also cannot be connected...
First of all, merry xmas to everyone.
Now, peace here, I can continue the pinball repair. Anybody got an idea, how should I check the Tilt system? I take a photo from it, is it looks good? The automatic test said, error 15, means Tilt, but it looks good... I clean the switches, the cables looks ok... Any idea from somebody?
Wow, I haven't played one of those since, um, 1984 or so. The one I played, the triangle kickers above the flippers didn't kick at all, which made it a veeerrrrryyyyy ssssllllloooowwwww game. I have no idea whether it was actually supposed to be like that or not.
Quoted from Finrod:Wow, I haven't played one of those since, um, 1984 or so. The one I played, the triangle kickers above the flippers didn't kick at all, which made it a veeerrrrryyyyy ssssllllloooowwwww game. I have no idea whether it was actually supposed to be like that or not.
Finrod, If you come to Hungary, check it out.
Still nobody any idea, how to fix the tilt problem?
1 week later
1 week later
You're in luck on Bally...They didn't use a lamp matrix, but individual SCRs to drive lamps so it is much easier to troubleshoot. Basic same principle as coils. The lamp always has 6VDC on one leg, and the MPU via a SCR sends ground to complete the circuit. So, same testing as a coil:
Is there 6VDC on one leg of socket to ground...That's the bare wire that goes from lamp to lamp? (NO, find broke voltage wire...YES, continue)
BRIEFLY Ground the other leg of the socket to ground (the colored wire)....Does bulb flicker? (NO, bad socket or bad bulb...YES, continue)
BRIEFLY Ground the pin at the connector (J1 to J3) from the MPU for that bulb....Your manual will tell you which PIN...Does bulb come on? (NO, bad connector or bad wire to bulb.....YES, continue)
Find the SCR that controls this lamp.....Using diode test on your meter, compare it to the SCR next to it. Does it test the same? (NO, replace SCR)
Wow, thanks, my printer is forgot the print the last 4pages...
But, now I can see, but a little chinese for me... This is the lamp " o " belong to the rigth 3 target's... I can see a lot thing on this schematics, but especially not this one...
It's generally sufficient to take the two little metal tabs on each side of the socket and bend them upward in such a way so they make stronger, firmer contact with the board.
If that doesn't work, an emory board or a bit of fine sandpaper won't hurt anything.
Also move the socket around to different areas of the lightboard to make sure the problem is indeed with the socket and not one of the traces on the board.
Nice that you got it going, but you didn't tell us how you fixed your other problems? It's always a good idea to include that information in your threads. Five years from now somebody is going to have the same problems, they'll search this thread and your solution could be very useful to them.
Good luck, looks like it should clean up nice.
Quoted from examiner:Nice that you got it going, but you didn't tell us how you fixed your other problems? It's always a good idea to include that information in your threads. Five years from now somebody is going to have the same problems, they'll search this thread and your solution could be very useful to them.
How did you miss the 281 post thread?
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1984-bally-tilt-problem
I clean the male side (what is on the picture) with sandpaper, i think, the other part of the connector has got some connect problem... :S
I disassemble the whole thing, and clean it in hot water, except the electric board, of course. I wipe it with wet paper. Then check every socket, bulb, and try them with an external power supply (actually, a transformer, what made for electric model train... ).
I notice, a few pins are loose, so I solder them for better contact.
After this, I assemble the whole thing (like on the picture).
Then I mount it, and notice, still have contact problem, so the other side (the female) has got a problem...
Ah, shame on me. I probably lost interest after the 200th post. And I also tend to subscribe to the "one machine, one post" theory of forum operation. Not saying there is a "right" or "wrong" way to do it, I just like to track a machine from start to finish all in one place. But in all fairness, if it took 281 posts to get it resolved, it probably was time for a new thread!
So Angyalpor - you are basically saying that you have confirmed that all of your sockets are in working order, correct?
I may have misunderstood - by "small connector", do you mean what appears to be the 25+ pin ribbon cable connection? If that's the question, about all you can do is push the connector on and off several times in an attempt to clean it. The solder joints on the back might be an issue, but dirty pins themselves usually aren't a major problem.
I'm not familiar with that assembly...is it easily accesible while in the game? If so, I'd fire up "all lamps on" test and check to see if I was getting current at the problem socket pads and go from there.
Otherwise, a bunch of other good guys have obviously got you this far, so I have no doubt you'll get this fixed too.
Yes, i mean the 25+ pin as "small connector".
Maybe the wires, or the soldering is not good there, because I start the lamp test, and sometimes all 27 bulbs are OK, sometimes not. Usually the same 3 bulbs getting dim, but when I move the connector, it will OK for a while. This is why I think, it's a connection problem...
Quoted from robertmee:If they change with moving the connector, I'd pull the board and take a look at the solder pads for those pins on the backside. Reflow them with some new solder if you can.
I made it, the first pins on one side are loose, I solder them...
1 week later
Quoted from robertmee:You're in luck on Bally...They didn't use a lamp matrix, but individual SCRs to drive lamps so it is much easier to troubleshoot. Basic same principle as coils. The lamp always has 6VDC on one leg, and the MPU via a SCR sends ground to complete the circuit. So, same testing as a coil:
Is there 6VDC on one leg of socket to ground...That's the bare wire that goes from lamp to lamp? (NO, find broke voltage wire...YES, continue)
BRIEFLY Ground the other leg of the socket to ground (the colored wire)....Does bulb flicker? (NO, bad socket or bad bulb...YES, continue)
BRIEFLY Ground the pin at the connector (J1 to J3) from the MPU for that bulb....Your manual will tell you which PIN...Does bulb come on? (NO, bad connector or bad wire to bulb.....YES, continue)
Find the SCR that controls this lamp.....Using diode test on your meter, compare it to the SCR next to it. Does it test the same? (NO, replace SCR)
Hm, I try to fix this last problem on my pinball, but I cannot find the good schematics on the manual... If I give ground to it, it works, so must be a broken wire, connection problem, or SCR... That's, what I know.
No, I was confused...I misread your post as A5 lamp board....It is A9, but it's called the auxiliary lamp driver board.
Still not sure it is 17 on J2, tho....It appears for the X and O grid, the game uses an additional Matrix board under the PF? Second to last page of the schematics. If so, then it may be more difficult to troubleshoot. Have you inspected this board and made sure the J1 connector is on good and have you tried reseating?
No, no, I think, I not tell correctly, what is my problem.
The matrix is good, all "O"s and "X"s are working perfectly. Nowdays the contact problem looks gone, so I's Ok. This matrix is on the pictures, what I cleaned.
My problem is a lamp on the playfield, not in the matrix. You can see on my playfield picture above, it not light on the picture. That is a white lamp with an "O", next to the 3 right target. This indicates, the targets writes X or O in the matrix...
This is why I think, it's name on the schematics: " O right targets "
Hi!
I follow your instructions, and looks like the wire is broken. The soldering looks ok, I give ground to the connector, and nothing happens. then I try to put a direct cable from the A9J2-17 to the lamp, and then works, when it needs to ( I lengthen the cable, one half is red, the other is black, but that is one. ) .
So means, my cable was broken somewhere...
As I see, so difficult to install a cable, near factory-way. Any suggestion, how should I do it? Simple leave the wrong cable, and attach a new one to the band? And how can I open the connector...? Or leave the connector, cut the original, and lengthen it...? a9.jpg lamp.jpg
Well if it were me, I'd trace that broken cable back and repair it....If it is broke, that means two ends of the wire are exposed somewhere...I wouldn't want that in my machine. Take a little time and trace the wire through the bundle. It's color coded so shouldn't be too difficult. Once you find it, repair it. My guess, it will be broke somewhere behind the back of the playfield where the wire comes down from the back box. When servicing the machine and lifting the playfield, those wires sometimes get pinched in the back.
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