(Topic ID: 95563)

Bally Xenon - Let the fun begin


By KeithinMI

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 32 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by kruzman
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 17 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

P7202725.JPG
P7202724.JPG
P7202723.JPG
P7202722.JPG
P7202721.JPG
P7202720.JPG
P7202719.JPG
20140626_144204.jpg
20140626_144159.jpg
20140626_144153.jpg
20140626_144143.jpg
20140626_144107.jpg
DSC06430.JPG
20140626_144136.jpg
20140626_144119.jpg
20140626_144127.jpg

#1 4 years ago

Hello Precious:

20140626_135518.jpg

Only been waiting like 6 years for this to show up

So now the fun part begins. My first question is -- Do I need a rotisserie to do a playfield swap (or two of them - one for the old pf and one for the new)?

Any feedback about whether I should have a Kruzman clearcoat put on it before I even begin?

TIA

#2 4 years ago

Ohhhhhhhh, yeah!!! Is that one of the 30 new CPR repro's? If so, I'm on that short list too. I've been on the hunt for a local project Xenon for a while....still looking. Considering shipping at this point because I've got one of those beauty's above coming and no machine to put it in!

#3 4 years ago

It is one of the 30 new repros. I gave it a good looking-over and everything looks to be good on it. I don't seen any raising of the inserts, although if I run my fingertips over the playfield, I can "feel" where the inserts start but their edges don't really appear to be visible looking at the pf on an angle.

#4 4 years ago

No, you don/t need a rotisserie ( or 2 ) to do a playfield swap.....I have done 14 PF Swaps and never used a rotisserie. What i do is set up 2 Saw Horses with a 2' x 4' piece of plywood on top (to make a table) then I use a 2' x 4' x 3" Thick piece of Foam (from JoAnn Etc.) as a topper for the table. Then I set up an identical table next to it with a 24" walkway in between the 2 tables....the table on the left is for the New PF & on the right is the old populated PF....it's as simple as flipping the PFs over to access the parts for removal / installation, however, I always have all of my New Parts ready to install at that point. Total Cost = about $30 for the 2 Tables.

EDIT: I have used the same Wood & Foam for All 14 PF Swaps & the Foam is still good to go for another 14 Swaps! Great $30 Investment for swapping PFs!

Quoted from KeithinMI:

Do I need a rotisserie to do a playfield swap

DSC06430.JPG

#5 4 years ago

Here's a few more close up shots of the inserts and detail work on it:

20140626_144107.jpg20140626_144119.jpg20140626_144127.jpg20140626_144136.jpg20140626_144143.jpg20140626_144153.jpg20140626_144159.jpg20140626_144204.jpg

#6 4 years ago

By the way, I love the look of the shooter lane on this one.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from KeithinMI:

Only been waiting like 6 years for this to show up
So now the fun part begins. My first question is -- Do I need a rotisserie to do a playfield swap (or two of them - one for the old pf and one for the new)?
Any feedback about whether I should have a Kruzman clearcoat put on it before I even begin?
TIA

Depends how your clear looks now, if this is brand spank-me new I would let the clear set up for a while and make sure nothing changes. I have heard stories of some people's playfields developing an unevenness or texture in the clear, but I think that was because they didn't leave the box open for curing. As far as having Ron clear it, that is more of a personal preference than a necessity. The CPR coating should be totally fine.

A rotisserie is very handy for doing the swap. It will save wear and tear on the playfield as you flip from top to bottom. You won't need one for the old playfield because you won't be transferring anything over directly. Everything will have to be cleaned and/or serviced first.

Congrats on the new playfield. It will be an awesome game when you are done!

#8 4 years ago

Great repro CPR. I LOVE the artwork on most of the late 70's and early 80's pins like this one.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from Stu:

No, you don/t need a rotisserie ( or 2 ) to do a playfield swap.....I have done 14 PF Swaps and never used a rotisserie. What i do is set up 2 Saw Horses with a 2' x 4' piece of plywood on top (to make a table) then I use a 2' x 4' x 3" Thick piece of Foam (from JoAnn Etc.) as a topper for the table. Then I set up an identical table next to it with a 24" walkway in between the 2 tables....the table on the left is for the New PF & on the right is the old populated PF....it's as simple as flipping the PFs over to access the parts for removal / installation, however, I always have all of my New Parts ready to install at that point. Total Cost = about $30 for the 2 Tables.

On my way to Joann after work to get the foam. Have all the other parts.

Do you do the top-side or backside of the PF first Stu?

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Depends how your clear looks now, if this is brand spank-me new I would let the clear set up for a while and make sure nothing changes. I have heard stories of some people's playfields developing an unevenness or texture in the clear, but I think that was because they didn't leave the box open for curing. As far as having Ron clear it, that is more of a personal preference than a necessity. The CPR coating should be totally fine.
A rotisserie is very handy for doing the swap. It will save wear and tear on the playfield as you flip from top to bottom. You won't need one for the old playfield because you won't be transferring anything over directly. Everything will have to be cleaned and/or serviced first.
Congrats on the new playfield. It will be an awesome game when you are done!

The clear looks really good on this one. I think better than my BK playfield from them. It still has clearcoat smell to it so it will be a while before I let a ball roll over that PF. My only concern is wear, however since it will be huo from now on, I'm guessing there really won't be any wear. As with all my machines, after cleaning the PF, I put on a nice coat of Mother's pure carnauba wax every couple hundred plays on a machine anyhow, and make sure the pinballs are kept clean and replaced when they are no longer shiny

#11 4 years ago

Love clearcoat.

#12 4 years ago

I always do PF Swaps in the following order:
1.) Take a shitload of Pictures Top & Bottom from All Angles ( i do themin a Prid Pattern )
2.) Remove all Plastics & Take More Pictures
3.) Remove the Wood Side Rails, Repair & Re Paint, Install on new PF
4.) Remove the Old Plastic Posts, clean the Mounting Screws and Install on new PF with New Plastic Posts
5.) Remove the Pop-Bumper Assemblies, Clean & Install Brackets with New Skirts, bodies, Springs, Lamp Holders, etc on New Playfield.
6.) Continue with the Top of the PF untill pretty much everthing is removed
7.) Start on the Backside.
8.) When you get to the point of having to move the Harnes ( which will end up being a huge ball of crap ) move the 2 tables together and slowely Inch-by-Inch move the harnes over to the new PF....the majority of the harnes will retain its memory (stiff wires on the lamp scockets) so it should be fairly easy to place everything where it needs to go on the new PF....
9.) Take your time, there is no ruch, Enjoy the Process, and I'm sure you will learn little tricks along the way to help in your next PF swap.....

Quoted from KeithinMI:

Do you do the top-side or backside of the PF first Stu?

#13 4 years ago

I looked at CPR's site and could not find it so I can purchase it. Do you have the link? Is it possible its sold out?

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from KeithinMI:

Any feedback about whether I should have a Kruzman clearcoat put on it before I even begin?

TIA

best thing to do is let the playfield sit and cure for 6 months to a year then sand down and reclear the playfield for the nicest & smooth finish possible

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from KeithinMI:

Do I need a rotisserie to do a playfield swap

This depends how many chickens you need to cook. Remember to baste frequently. Low and slow.

#16 4 years ago

Got one coming, can't wait.

#17 4 years ago

Beautiful game and one of my favourite players too. Another Pinside member Swinks has remade the roll over buttons for this game. I have them on my Xenon and Kings of Steel games and they look 100% on the originals which are generally not as white as they once were. The playfield pictured is mine.
http://www.shapeways.com/model/1477577/bally-pinball-rollover-button-c-587-6-ss-em.html?modelId=1477577&materialId=62

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

Beautiful game and one of my favourite players too. Another Pinside member Swinks has remade the roll over buttons for this game. I have them on my Xenon and Kings of Steel games and they look 100% on the originals which are generally not as white as they once were. The playfield pictured is mine.
http://www.shapeways.com/model/1477577/bally-pinball-rollover-button-c-587-6-ss-em.html?modelId=1477577&materialId=62

just ordered 4 of them

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from radium:

This depends how many chickens you need to cook. Remember to baste frequently. Low and slow.

doesn't cooked playfield taste like chicken anyhow?

#20 4 years ago
Quoted from root:

I looked at CPR's site and could not find it so I can purchase it. Do you have the link? Is it possible its sold out?

this was a re-run of the original run to test out their new cnc machine. There were only 30 made, so there are only 29 others floating around out there.

#21 4 years ago

28, mine arrived today as well....will be unboxed shortly

#22 4 years ago

27. love your work cpr

#23 4 years ago

You guys didn't count me... 26

#24 4 years ago

26 - looks stunning!

#25 4 years ago

25 - looks awesome

#26 4 years ago

23-two playfields

4 weeks later
#27 4 years ago

22 - looks awesome, one of the best repro i have seen ...Congrats CPR team !

#28 4 years ago

Like a couple people said, you need to let it sit, outside the box for 6 months before you decide if you want it cleared or not. Here are pics of a pf that was bought I think in april of this year (I am not in the shop) and this is very hard to get on pics, especialy with my camera. This was not a bronze pf or anything.

Its hard to see in the pics, but the clear over the inserts has sunk a lot (I think the ball would get stuck if going slow). It didn't look like this new, but in 4 months, it looks much different. So I am going to sand off the clear, and do it my way.
This is not a slam at any pf manufacture, please I beg of you guys not go get defensive and crazy. I am helping answer the post question, and at the same time, a bunch of others.
So If you wait 4-6 months, you will be able to send it out if this happens to yours.
cheers, ron

P7202719.JPG P7202720.JPG P7202721.JPG P7202722.JPG P7202723.JPG P7202724.JPG P7202725.JPG
#29 4 years ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Its hard to see in the pics, but the clear over the inserts has sunk a lot (I think the ball would get stuck if going slow). It didn't look like this new, but in 4 months, it looks much different. So I am going to sand off the clear, and do it my way.

Wow.

From the pictures it looks like whole inserts have sunk, a lot!

I assume you are re-gluing them before you start, lol?

#30 4 years ago

And (don't take this the wrong way) what is different about a Kruzman clear coat that this situation wouldn't happen again? I am just asking for information - not a slam on you sir.

#31 4 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

And (don't take this the wrong way) what is different about a Kruzman clear coat that this situation wouldn't happen again? I am just asking for information - not a slam on you sir.

In Ron's defense, I don't think any clearcoat would have saved those inserts.

They look like they have sunk into the playfield 1/16".

I'd pull them, rough the sides up, prime the sides and glue them back flush - permanently.

The insert holes may have been routed too deep allowing excessive movement, downwards.....

#32 4 years ago

Its not a slam, no problem. After a couple months, when I am sure the existing clear is cured, I would sand it down allmost to the art. MY process takes about 9 weeks, but is only about 17 hrs of work. By doing thin coats, 1 at a time, and allowing to cure for pleanty of time. I am not going to discuss my process, but it should be noted that it cost 450, and my work is always guaranteed. It will not sink, in the low spots.It is a custom perfection job, rather than a production job that many people find adequate.
I cant really speak for cpr but they told me they only pay 50 dollars for their clear. That means the guy who cleares it has to rock it out, lickity split. Its a production clear. MY point in the post is that this pf did not look like this when it came originaly. This happened while sitting in storage for 3 months.
Like I said in the first post, I know better than to say anything bad about cpr, and I am not. But if you are new to the pf world, my suggestion is let your pf cure for 4 months before installing to see if it is ok with you.

play pinball with your family!!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 140.00
€ 3.95
Flipper Parts
Multigame
From: $ 155.00
$ 7.65
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 149.95
$ 50.00
$ 149.00
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 10.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 399.95
From: $ 13.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
From: $ 45.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
$ 7.65
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
$ 16.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 155.00
$ 14.50
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
$ 20.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 30.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside