Hi Chris914
welcome to pinside. I do not have an Bally Wizard - mainly because I once said "Williams and Gottliebs --- Yes, spare parts, hmm - I not yet have bought me an Bally". But "played in my Youth" - Yes, the Wizard is a very good pin.

See the JPG - I believe "green" is working in Your pin --- "red" is not working. See "grey" - maybe the wiring in reality - in Your pin is "as drawn grey" ?
Toggle-off, unplug the main power cord (Safety reasons) - locate the "Player-Unit" in Your pin --- manually step one direction - step other direction --- see the step-up is "single steps" - step down is ONE HUGE step. Then step to "about the middle - inbetween" - plug-in, toggle-on, WATCH the Player-Unit - start a game - question: DOES the Player-Unit reset / move ? --- this "resetting at start-up is done "along my blue wiring" - does it work in Your pin ? Greetings Rolf

0Wizard-Work-05 (resized).jpg

Can you manually actuate the "player up stepper unit" and the "ball count stepper unit" , there should be placards to indicate which one is which.

I think they are both "full reset steppers"

Hi Chris914
from Your post-1 I read "can start a ONE-Player-Game by pressing the 'Replay-Button' in the front - near the coin-door". THEN the pin starts - does the resetting of the Score-Drums - the pin does a lot of work - all this work the pin is doing: We call the Start-Up / -Sequence. So
Toggle-off, unplug the main power cord (Safety reasons) - locate the "Player-Unit" in Your pin --- manually step one direction - step other direction --- see the step-up is "single steps" - step down is ONE HUGE step. Then step to "about the middle - inbetween" - plug-in, toggle-on, WATCH the Player-Unit - start a game - question: DOES the Player-Unit reset / move ?

In a running Wizard the Player-Unit resets --- and the way the electrons flow to cause the Player-Unit-RESET-Coil to pull: The electrons flow "along my blue wiring". It is getting late in Switzerland - I go to sleep - till tomorrow, greetings Rolf

Hi Chris914
Yes, the Start-Up sequences are different in the pins --- BIG difference "Gottlieb" versus "Bally, Williams". But Your pin has a fault - when we toggle-on the main power switch: Nothing happens - the Lock-Relay does not pull-in --- a switch (encircled red) of type "Normally-Closed" therefore is closed (relay is not pulling) --- through this switch current should flow when the Game-Over-Relay is "latched means not-tripped - means in-play - means not-in-state-Game-Over". The Game-Over-Relay then trips (and by tripping opens encircled "blue switch" - circuitry is cut - Coil on Game-Over-Trip-Side has no more connection).
We then press the left flipper-button - the Lock-Relay pulls-in and opens its switch (encircled red) - now both sides / halves of the full circuitry on the coil of the GO-Relay have an open switch cutting circuitry.

Toggle-off, unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - locate the "Switch on Lock-Relay" - check for "closed when the relay is not active" - may clean the contact-points (oxidation ?) - check for "wires soldered-on" --- (((poor us - a connecting wire can be broken-off "here" - or broken-off "there - means other end of the wire"))). Greetings Rolf

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Does the coin unit step up to 2,3 and four players?
If the ball in play doesn't increase, look at the ball index relay for a misadjusted or dirty contact.
A way of testing is to tilt the ball in play, if it gets to the second ball it is surely the ball index.
If the coin unit does not step up it is possible the end contact on the coin unit is bent open.

Hi Chris914
It does not really matter - later pins like my Williams Space Mission and Big Deal do (no longer) have the feature "toggling-on - nothing happens - then pressing the left flipper-button makes the lights to turn-on". I think it is a funny feature - not more.
BUT the Space Mission AND the Big Deal STILL do have an LOCK-Relay - because of the function "to make the Game-Over-Relay to trip - if the GO-Relay is not tripped".

Lets proceed with troubleshooting - (Your post-6) - by now You can see the "Player-Unit-RESET-coil" fire when starting a new game. Sounds strange - but it is a fact - in a ONE-Player-Game when the pin steps from ball-1 to ball-2 etc: The Player-Unit-RESET-Coil fires - O.K. the unit is resetted all the time throughout an ONE-Player-Game - but, when the pin steps from ball-1 to ball-2 etc: The Player-Unit-RESET-Coil fires - we can see this.

Please lift the playfield after start-up - simulate ball-play - make some points - simulate "ball is lost - enters the Outhole" --- watch, watch, watch - the pin steps-up the Ball-Count-Unit - question: Do You see the Player-Unit-RESET-Coil fire ?
Frankly - I believe You will say "Player-Unit-RESET-Coil does not fire when stepping from ball-1 to ball-2" - but I must ask as this is part of troubleshooting. Greetings Rolf

Hi Chris914
it is getting late in Switzerland - I must go to sleep. Well, look at the JPG in post-2 - On every new ball given You must make some points so the Ball-Index-Relay pulls-in and stays pulling (does it in Your pin ?) - then (JPG) along "green" a shot is fired - to reach the Ball-Count-Unit: The Coin-Unit MUST be resetted (is it in Your pin ?) --- soon after "green shot" another shot is fired - along "my red wiring" - this "my red" is / was the original problem. When drawing "my blue lines (at starting a new game)": I should have drawn also "blue": UPWARDS to Ball-Count-Unit-Reset-Coil and Coin-Unit-Reset-Coil --- question: Do Player-Unit AND Ball-Count-Unit AND Coin-Unit RESET when You start a new game.
Till tomorrow, greetings Rolf

Well, yes it should go to game over when powered back up after you turn off the power during a game.

This does not really matter, some machines do this anyway.

The first thing to do is, manually operate all three stepper units many times. That's the ball count unit, Player up unit and Coin unit (all used for multi-player games). there are two coils on each, one to step up the other to reset. most likely one of these units is sticky with old grease, or not so old WD40 <---- Bad news in pinball machines.

So work them until they move up smoothly and snap back when reset. Bit of luck this is all you will need to do to get them working again. If it was working as a single player games, then work with the Player up and coin units first.

Hi Chris914
fine - the (post-14) three units reset when You start a new game. Please write about - can You at this time "play a ONE-Player-Game" ? (or is the new problem (post-12) "stays in ball-1" persistent ?). I very much like to test with "Test-Lights" - Williams and Gottlieb pins run on 24VAC (we take two 12Volt car bulbs mounted one behind the other - sums up to 24 Volt). Your Bally pin runs on 48 to 50 VAC --- instead of mounting four 12Volt car bulbs (it is not very practical): I would like You to use an old bedroom lamp for 110VAC - an 10,15,20,25,30,35,40 Watts bedroom lamp - the oldtime simple Edison type (NOT costly new energy-saving - NOT LED) --- it will not shine up bright - but bright enough for our tests --- do You have an oldfashioned Edison-Typ bedroom lamp of 10 ... 40 (... 60) Watts ? Do You have an Solder-Iron ? Do You have some spare wire and gator-clips to make You Test-Light / Jumper-Wire ? (((nice when You have gator-clips --- but we can do tests without gator-clips))). Greetings Rolf

Just a tip, If you highlight text in a post a "Quote" will appear, park your mouse on the "Quote" and click. See above how I quoted only part of your text.

Getting back to the steppers. There are two arms that drive and hold the white gear. I would suggest you clean them and lube. They will work OK when you manually step the units, but not when operated via the coils if they are AT ALL sticky, the speed man it’s all about the speed, speed that the coils operate is sort of real fast.

You can clean them without taking the stepper units out. Check them out, see if they are at all sluggish when you operate the step up and reset coils manually. The problem you described is very often sticky steppers.

Also watch the backboard as player one drains, looking for player two lighting up for a moment or player one light going out then on, stuff like that..

Help (resized).jpg

good tutorial about cleaning steppers here: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps

also use a synthetic grease as opposed to 3-in-1 for the hub. -NEVER- lubricate the coil sleeves & plungers

not mentioned in the tutorial is mark where the clock spring is attached to the hub & count the turns as you unwind so when you reinstall it will be the proper tension.

Hi Chris914
there are two ways I like best when testing, trouble-shooting: AA - I use an Jumper-Wire - kind of force connection --- BB - I use an Test-Light, hooked-on permanent --- then play and watch the Test-Light when I play. The Test-Light has looooong wires - the Test-Light I have put on the apron - the long wires run through the open coin-door into the pin to "where I have clipped-on".

Do You have an old bedroom-lamp ? Of 110VAC - maybe 10, 15, 20 ... 40 (60) Watts. An old one, cheap - Edison-type ? NOT: energy saving type - NOT: LED type

See the JPG - "my yellow wiring" - Your old Edison Type bedroom lamp used as an Test-Light. Your pin runs on 48VAC - I believe the 110VAC Bedroom-Test-Light will light up - dim, but visible.
Please toggle-off the pin and unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - Establish "YELLOW S to E1, Start to End-1" permanent --- then plug-in, toggle-on, start a game - play - when You loose a ball and the pin wants to step to next ball: The Test-Light lights up.

I do not know if the Ball-Count-Unit will step with the Test-Light mounted or if the Test-Light sucks too much current - we will see. The "YELLOW S to E1, E2, E3" is just "trying if testing works".
It always is hard to get at solderlugs on switches on the Score-Motor - maybe You cannot do test "YELLOW S to E3" - no problem.

Please toggle-off the pin and unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - Establish "ROSA/PINK S to E1, Start to End-1" permanent --- then plug-in, toggle-on, start a game - play - when You loose a ball and the pin wants to step to next ball: The Test-Light lights up. You will see - in the "ROSA/PINK S to E1" test: The 110VAC Bedroom-Test-Light will light-up much longer.

Then toggle-off , unplug - clip-on for "ROSA/PINK S to E2 or E3 or E4 or E5", plug-in, toggle on etc.

The idea in "Using an Test-Light" is: "Kind of following the wiring in question", greetings Rolf

0Wizard-Work-07 (resized).jpg

3A - Third cam from the motor end and SW closest to the cam

4B - Fourth Cam from motor and 2nd Sw above cam.

Wire colours. 1st number the main colour, the 2nd Number the trace colour, the 3rd number after the - run number EG -3 is the third run of this colour wire.

this info is on the schematic

You may not know about this, there is a colour version of the Wizard schematic on IPDB, Hi Res too.

http://www.ipdb.org/files/2803/Bally_1975_Wizard_Schematic.png

Help (resized).jpg

Your quote here said, all is good for a one player game.

Assuming that when you add more players the back glass indicates that more than one player can play?

When you play the 1st player and 1st ball all is still well until the ball drains. the ball is ejected out to the shooter lane ready to play again but still 1st player.

Hope this is how I'm meant to read the first post.

What this tells me is the player up unit is not stepping up.

Order of events multi player.

VERY important – the schematic is drawn as a one player game. 1st ball in the shooter lane and the power turned off. So when you look for an issue with the multi-player parts, the schematic is not quite right. (Just a side note, the extra ball SW on the colour version of the schematic is drawn wrong should be NC - normally closed not NO - normally open,Fixed on the snippet below)

Start a single player game -Reset ball count unit, player up unit and coin unit.

Add another player – step up the coin unit (better name would be – Number of players unit)

Player one plays ball one until it drains.
1st player drains 1st ball.
1st, did player one score any points? If no, Player gets to play again, if yes then - Next, did player one get a free ball? If yes send ball to shooter lane, Player one plays again.
If no, then step up player unit and Player 2 plays 1st ball.

2nd player drains 1st ball.
Did player two score any points? If no, Player two gets to play again, if yes - Next, did player two get a free ball? If yes send ball to shooter lane, Player two plays again.
If no, then have we reached the last player, if No step up the player unit.
If yes, then reset the player unit (Back to player one) and step up the ball count unit.

In my bit of schematic, follow the GREEN line. Can you see that to fire the ball step up coil, a few things need to be set right.
The outhole RE energised, the Ball index RE energised. The extra ball RE de – energised and player –up unit on position two. Then and only then can the ball count unit advance.

Now you should have enough info to help you fault find.

So start a two player game, make sure its on player one, ball one. Start the play making sure at least 10 points are scored and let the ball drain. Does the player up unit step up coil fire? if yes, did it make it to player two?
If it did fire but did not make it two player two. The unit will be sticky, Have I mentioned sticky stepper units yet?????

Help (resized).png

A bit more.....
From the OP (originating Post), the game plays a one player game just fine. This leaves us with really three things the coin unit, the player up unit or the Jones plug between them.

PS, just had a two player game on my Monty Carlow, to play two players, I have to exercise the Coin unit first, it was firing but not stepping up. "A Bit Sticky"

Fantastic!!!! Wasn't expecting the issue to be with Score motor SW, but there you go.

Once you have solved a problem, we should mark it as solved. To do that there is a tickbox above the 1st post in the thread header to the right of the Title.