If the green LED is stuck on, the solution probably has nothing to do with the wiring harness.

Lets see some close up pics of the bottom of the MPU board where the battery used to be installed.

well lit, focused, pictures.

I'd love to see a pic of a factory SI remote battery holder

The serial number is on the left side of the cabinet, stamped into the wood, above the "invaders''

No such animal.....

You need 7 flashes from the mpu led, before the other lamps can turn on

Right now you only have the General Illumination lamps working.

Locked on is tough for someone who does not work on boards. Could be bad chip, bad socket, hidden corrosion, - many many reasons

Do you have a meter?

Do you know how to solder?

Can you wipe the lens on your phone?

Post of the week right there....

Everyone is trying to help, but you are not giving us enough info

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-properly-ask-for-pinball-repair-help-vids-guide

Excellent follow-up

So your mpu board is not booting up (locked on led with no flashes)

That often means the sockets are worn out/corroded

Without picture, we can't tell you if they are the original (very past their expiration date), or replacement , or ones that have been "outgassed" from past batteries

The first step in "bulletproofing" any 40 year old Bally MPU is replacing the worn out sockets and connectors.

About 20 minutes of work, but it keeps you from wasting hours of time chasing your tail.

461a11e89b3107de73600f0d998cf45448b4a045 (resized).jpg

That lowest socket is the RAM. CAREFULLY look at the fingers inside the socket; they should be shiny metal, not grey, white or green!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing/page/2#post-1490986

It was not sarcasm.

I love to see odd stuff from the factory. So had this been an actual factory remote battery, I certainly wanted to see it and store the picture in my archives.

A decade later, Bally did have some remote battery holders.

IMG_20201213_135458 (resized).jpg

Your camera lens is covered in grime. Just take a clean cotton t-shirt and wipe the lens of your camera. It will make a world of difference.

Jon,

To rule out a wire harness issue with booting the MPU you can attempt to boot on the bench.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#How_to_make_a_Benchtop_power_supply_for_the_MPU_board

I suspect though that the locked on LED is as stated by @vid1900. There are other sections in the Pinwiki to assist. Hang in there. The group will help.

No, it's not. Just because someone did a nice job installing a connector doesn't mean it was the factory. You're asking us to believe that for the latter run of Space Invaders, Bally put a different connector onto a hacky-looking battery, then every game released after that went back to the board mounted one?

Based on a sample size of.... one. Your machine. Ask yourself honestly.... which is more likely? (a) Bally did this (b) someone else did this

Go to pinwiki and look in the Bally section at first steps.

Summarizing what pinwiki would tell you what to do:

Check voltages on rectifier board, all ok, move to solenoid driver board, test voltages there, all ok, move to MPU board, test voltages there, investigate behavior of diagnostic LED, react accordingly. If it's locked on, the game isn't booting. Follow that troubleshooting tree.

Anything where you're talking about some random lights coming on has nothing to do with the issue. People have been trying to help you, but you seem to have an insistence on not listening to what they are telling you and instead saying that other things that are unrelated are the issue. For the purposes of getting your game running, the random lights and the remote mounted battery are completely unrelated to a non-booting mpu. Have you looked at the MPU close up to see if there's any corrosion anywhere vs. insisting that there isn't because of a "factory mounted remote holder"? BTW, even with a remote mounted battery, corrosion most certainly can and does travel up the wires and can affect the board just the same.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#LED_locked_on

The lights you have working are just the General Illumination lamps. They work even if the MPU board's traces are consumed by corrosion, or even if the MPU is removed from the machine.

Board pics are too blurry to see anything

While you have the board out, hook it up to any standard PC power supply with some small alligator clips

On a 4 pin hard drive connector, red is 5v, yellow is 12v, black is gnd

Connect these to the corresponding test loops on the Bally mpu

If you don't get 6 flashes, do you know the board needs more work than you can do yourself

This guy took the power supply out of the computer case, but you do not have to do that.

I've done it while the pc is running

You will only get 6 flashes because you don't have the 43v that the 7th flash requires

But close enough for jazz

Could be a number of things- bad sockets, corrosion, bad ROMS.

You’re going to need to do some board repairs, or if this is something you have not done before, buy a replacement MPU. I suggest the latter so you get up and running.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#LED_locked_on

Sounds like progress. At least not locked on anymore. Here’s the summary from the link provided:

5.5.4.1 Quick summary
Flicker: MPU reset good, program booted.
1st Flash: ROM Checksums OK
2nd Flash: U7 6810 ram OK
3rd Flash: U8 5101 ram OK (U8 & U13 on mpu-200)
4th Flash: U10 PIA OK (see details for caveats)
5th Flash: U11 PIA OK (see details for caveats)
6th Flash: U12 555 Display interrupt timer OK
7th Flash: Zero crossing interrupt detector OK (solenoid voltage present)

So if you have a flicker and one flash- ROMs are good and possibly U7 or it’s socket is bad.

If you actually got 2 flashes- U8 or it’s socket is bad.

delete

I deleted what I responded. I don’t know the answers to your questions.

that part number on U7 is a factory part number for a 6810.

All your main IC's appear to be socketed so I'd suggest carefully removing them, not damaging any of the traces underneath and carefully re-seating them ensuring the notch on each IC is facing to the left, and making sure each pin seats correctly, looking at the board with J5 up the top facing North.

Can you post a clear video of all chips socketed on the board and possibly a video of turning on your power supply with the 12VDC, 5VDC and ground attached?

For anyone to help out clarity of any pictures/videos is a must.

Not that it matters, but for the mpu to work it's not necessary to have the battery installed.

I will say, I have a super clean MPU that had no battery damage. I replaced my header pins because I do it on all my boards. It would not boot properly in the game. I had rebuilt the SDB and power supply, so no power issues (and verified with meters and scope). The connector has issues and parts are in the mail. It boots fine with jumpers.

Header pins and connectors need to be replaced for reliability.

20210126_163632 (resized).jpg

Don't know where you can order but for a couple bucks you may want to purchase U7 and U8 too. With getting one or two flashes that may be where you're stuck.

No, the last Bally title was Revenge From Mars from 1999.

Yes.