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(Topic ID: 287727)

Bally Viking Pop bumper Solenoid Not Firing

By FatPanda

3 years ago


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  • 13 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Quench
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#1 3 years ago
OP
 
QUY

FatPanda

Pinside member

7y 141K 7,178 32

Carrying on from the troubleshooting in general Bally/Stern AS-2518 club, I just recently acquired a Bally Viking that needs a bit of work and one of the problems that it is having is that the lower right pop bumper isn't firing during a game. The switch will make the sound effect and score. It won't fire in test mode. It will fire when I ground the tab at Q12 on the SDB (Stern SDU-100).

I've done some preliminary tests with Quench (but it turns out I was wasting a bunch of time because I don't know any better!)

I will be starting from here with the power ON:

Quoted from Quench:

R30 is directly across the base and emitter pins of the Q12 transistor. Note, this should have shown up as a bad reading when you were testing Q12.
Disconnect the J5 connector from the solenoid driver board so we don't lock any coils on during the following test.
Measure the voltage on the banded side of diode CR12 while you ground pin 10 (2nd top left pin) of U3. Then measure the voltage on the non-banded side of CR12 while grounding U3 pin 10. You should measure about 1.4 volts and then 2.1 volts respectively.

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#2 3 years ago
 
CMS

Xenon75

Pinside member

11y 86,800 1,969

If it fires when you ground the transistor, then you know the wiring from the SDB to the coil is good. Sounds like it is not getting the signal from the MPU, so I would start by rebuilding the MPU connector and related SDB connector as a starting point. Many problems can be resolved in these early Ballys by rebuilding the connectors/refreshing the solder on the header pins of the MPU.

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#3 3 years ago
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FatPanda

Pinside member

7y 141K 7,178 32

Quoted from Xenon75:

If it fires when you ground the transistor, then you know the wiring from the SDB to the coil is good. Sounds like it is not getting the signal from the MPU, so I would start by rebuilding the MPU connector and related SDB connector as a starting point. Many problems can be resolved in these early Ballys by rebuilding the connectors/refreshing the solder on the header pins of the MPU.

I have an issue with a digit out on all displays too, and reflowing solder to the pins on the MPU didnt help, so this may be in the books in the near future. For now, I'm going to follow Quench instructions for the pop bumper issue.

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#4 3 years ago
OP
 
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FatPanda

Pinside member

7y 141K 7,178 32

Testing with the machine on, pin 10 grounded, DMM in DCV, J5 unplugged.

R29 top leg 5.17V
Bottom leg .78 V

CR12 non-banded side .796V
Banded side 18.4 mV

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#5 3 years ago
 
PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,035

OP
Quoted from FatPanda:

Testing with the machine on, pin 10 grounded, DMM in DCV, J5 unplugged.

R29 top leg 5.17V
Bottom leg .78 V

CR12 non-banded side .796V
Banded side 18.4 mV

Cheers, these readings say you have a short circuit at the Q12 transistor - likely Q12 itself. Specifically between the transistors "Base" leg and the "Emitter" leg. This short is stopping the Q12 transistor from actually switching on.
--- Remove the ground jumper from pin 10 of U3. Now what voltage do you measure at the non-banded side of diode CR12? Should be around 0.3 volts.
--- Can you post the part number on the Q12 transistor, just in case it's the wrong part.
--- Post a picture of the back of the board around Q12 in case our eagle eyes spot an accidental solder short.

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#6 3 years ago
OP
 
QUY

FatPanda

Pinside member

7y 141K 7,178 32

Quoted from Quench:

Cheers, these readings say you have a short circuit at the Q12 transistor - likely Q12 itself. Specifically between the "Base" leg and the "Emitter" leg. This short is stopping the Q12 transistor from actually switching on.
--- Remove the ground jumper from pin 10 of U3. Now what voltage do you measure at the non-banded side of diode CR12? Should be around 0.3 volts.
--- Can you post the part number on the Q12 transistor, just in case it's the wrong part.
--- Post a picture of the back of the board around Q12 in case our eagle eyes spot an accidental solder short.

I will do this later today. The transistor was replaced before me, probably in an attempt to fix this issue or the same issue in a day long gone. With my untrained eye, things looked clean on the back of the board and the solder job seemed acceptable. Hope it's something as simple as this!

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#7 3 years ago
 
PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,035

OP
Quoted from FatPanda:

The transistor was replaced before me

Did you use a TIP102 transistor or something else?

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#8 3 years ago
OP
 
QUY

FatPanda

Pinside member

7y 141K 7,178 32

Quoted from Quench:

Did you use a TIP102 transistor or something else?

I haven't changed it yet. I believe there was a TIP102 transistor installed but I can let you know when I take a look at the board.

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#9 3 years ago
OP
 
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FatPanda

Pinside member

7y 141K 7,178 32

Voltage on the non-banded side of CR12 is .445V

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#10 3 years ago
OP
 
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FatPanda

Pinside member

7y 141K 7,178 32

I have spare TIP102 transistors so I could change it to see if it works?

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#11 3 years ago
OP
 
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FatPanda

Pinside member

7y 141K 7,178 32

I replaced the transistor and it works!

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#12 3 years ago
 
RIK

Rikoshay

Pinside member

9y 46,900 1,506

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#13 3 years ago
 
PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,035

OP
Quoted from FatPanda:

I replaced the transistor and it works!

Great!

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