Vector
Bally, 1982Bought a vector a few weeks ago and everything was working and got it set up at home and was fine.Cleaned it up and lifted drops for a cleaning as well and now rear defenders wont do anything,if i raise them manually the game detects them and manually they work fine,coil checked good but changed anyway and no difference.Im not sure whats my next move,any advise appreciated,thank you
Did you check to see if all of your board connectors are properly seated? They can get yanked on during a move and fail later. Sounds like it wants to work, but they just won't reset after they are all knocked down? I would clean the switch contacts on the drop mech too if you haven't done so yet.
I wish I could be of more help to ya, all I got is these 2 last bits. Try googling "bally drop targets not resetting" or a few different things like that. Even if it is a different Bally game, the hits might be useful reads. My last thought is re-pinning as many IDC connectors to the MPU and power supply board as you can. I did a bunch on my Vector when I had one and it increased it's reliability a bunch. Good luck!
Quoted from dozer1:I wish I could be of more help to ya, all I got is these 2 last bits. Try googling "bally drop targets not resetting" or a few different things like that. Even if it is a different Bally game, the hits might be useful reads. My last thought is re-pinning as many IDC connectors to the MPU and power supply board as you can. I did a bunch on my Vector when I had one and it increased it's reliability a bunch. Good luck!
Thanks for your imput and yeah i need to just probably start vids bulletproofing guide and repin,etc .I think Q6 is good,its beeping just like the rest.
Ok so i decieded to switch the knocker transistor with Q6 the rear defenders and the new coil is locking the rear drops up,theres a couple jumpers on the back of the board and i noticed the flippers always work when games on,thinkin maybe should just upgrade to a new board,ebay has them for 160 shipped and the alltek has leds to show coils status,whatta think? Maybe i just got a bad coil?but its "new"??
It's not the coil.
Your solenoid driver board has problems that need to be addressed. You might want to just pick up the replacement board so you have a known good one to test with. The flippers shouldn't be active all the time, sounds like someone hacked the circuit to get the relay out of the picture.
Transistors can test good and still be bad.... most likely something in the chain is shorted on. It will cook the new coil and make it bad if the fuse on the rectifier assembly doesn't blow.
While you're at it, check your fuses for proper values. Despite seeing the game working when you picked it up, you should go through the checklists on pinwiki and probably here as well for "project game" - starting with testing everything on the rectifier board, then move to the solenoid driver board (which you know is already hacked up), then to the mpu and lamp boards.
For the future, you can measure a coil with an ohm meter to see if its good or not - anything under 1-2 ohms is shorted. Most likely the issue is a cooked transistor or predriver, but if the coil is now bad due to overfusing/locked on, it'll keep killing driver transistors if you don't fix everything in a systematic manner.
Quoted from slochar:It's not the coil.
Your solenoid driver board has problems that need to be addressed. You might want to just pick up the replacement board so you have a known good one to test with. The flippers shouldn't be active all the time, sounds like someone hacked the circuit to get the relay out of the picture.
Transistors can test good and still be bad.... most likely something in the chain is shorted on. It will cook the new coil and make it bad if the fuse on the rectifier assembly doesn't blow.
While you're at it, check your fuses for proper values. Despite seeing the game working when you picked it up, you should go through the checklists on pinwiki and probably here as well for "project game" - starting with testing everything on the rectifier board, then move to the solenoid driver board (which you know is already hacked up), then to the mpu and lamp boards.
For the future, you can measure a coil with an ohm meter to see if its good or not - anything under 1-2 ohms is shorted. Most likely the issue is a cooked transistor or predriver, but if the coil is now bad due to overfusing/locked on, it'll keep killing driver transistors if you don't fix everything in a systematic manner.
Ok thank you,ill start checking for proper fuses,ill get the board,while waiting ill make sure i didnt ruin the coil so it doesnt hurt the new board then start with the rectifier and work my way thru the boards.Thanks for taking time out to lend a hand
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Canton, IL
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