(Topic ID: 190341)

Bally Vampire restoration (transfusions required :)

By Colsond3

6 years ago


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Topic poll

“What should I do with the armor and legs?”

  • Get nice, shiny chrome finish 7 votes
    12%
  • Chrome finish for armor and powder coat the legs 1 vote
    2%
  • Powder coat the armor and legs 12 votes
    21%
  • Keep original finish and just get it polished 37 votes
    65%

(57 votes)

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#179 6 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

This is the only broken plastic.

Going to 3-D print one, and make a repro this way. Hopefully one of them comes out good.

Let me know if you want me to laser cut you a replacement on my new-to-me epilog laser.
That won't really help with the graphics.. but it might help

#183 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey Zitt, I was wondering if you could cut me a new Jack Bot mini pf out of lexan? No artwork on it and just the big hole in it.

I can't. CO2 doesn't cut polycarbonate (lexan).
You need a fiber laser AFAIK; which I do not have.
I can only cut PMMA (acrylic) and other materials like PETG.

Quoted from Colsond3:

I wish you sold the light up pop bumper housings that would fit the older Bally EM's.

No one makes the bally era housings in transparent. I would have to design a mold and have them manufactured. I'm not sure there a large enough market for that right now.

#186 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Would PETG be strong enough? How scratch resistant is it?

IDK, honestly.
PETG is used pretty exclusively for most modern printed plastics in pinball machines right now. It'd be interesting to see how thick you'd need it.

The other option is to waterjet the PolyCarbonate; but would probably be expensive at $3/minute machine time at techshop.

Quoted from Colsond3:

I figured...a shame they don't make them at all. I've looked on your site and elsewhere.

What is the part number?
Bally- C114-3 ?
http://pbresource.com/pfbumpb.htm

#190 6 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

As far as I know, you need a digital cutter or some other apparatus to cut polycarbonate, as Zitt said above. PETG is the standard today, so that's probably the route I'm going. And I'm making a few extras.

Correct, We tried cutting PolyCarb many years ago with a CO2 100+W laser with special Argon air assist... and it was slow going and didn't work right for many parts. PolyCarb seems to melt instead of vaporizing which means the "cut line" glues itself back together as it cuts.

PETG is generally ok on the CO2 lasers... although I don't have a lot of experience with it.

2 months later
#264 6 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Game worked perfect when it was set up, so it should be good.

You know you just jinxed yourself, right?
I hope you are right; but... yeah; the gremlins were fed after midnight.

1 week later
#286 6 years ago

Colsond3,
What type of flipper buttons does this cabinet use?
IPDB.org's pictures aren't very clear but it looks like it maybe the more standard button rather than the early solid-state buttons I offer.
If I'm mistaken and you machine uses the buttons I offer let me know.

2 weeks later
#332 6 years ago

Ok. hate to be "that guy" but; aren't the new stencils missing the white "highlight" areas on the front of your new cabinet?

#343 6 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

You hate to be "the guy" that doesn't read the thread thoroughly? LOL. Just kidding man. All in good fun. You've been following and I appreciate it. See Posts 305 and 314 above.

In my defense, I was distracted by all the pretty pictures and missed that.
I guess I was thinking why would you assemble the door/etc when you might have overspray issues with the white and/or grey.

1 week later
#462 6 years ago

Isn't clearing BGs now considered a bad idea?
I would do some serious research before doing that on a rare bg.

1 week later
#494 6 years ago

Toss it in with the other parts. that's the right answer.

2 weeks later
#554 6 years ago

Baby blue just doesn't fit the theme IMHO.
Greyish; is a better theme fit as others have stated.

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