Vampire
Bally, 1971You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider MustangPaul.
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Quoted from Colsond3:Making some progress...her helping adds time to the process, but I love it and it's priceless.
Oh man, if she's gonna be helping you when the pf is up you'll have to MAKE SURE it won't come down even if she hangs on it. It could kill her if it ever came down.
Quoted from Colsond3:New airbrush kit on the way (my compressor crapped out and want a fresh set up for this cab). Cab work starting in next few days. Should have the rest of the chromed metal back this week, and cleared PF back next weekend.
What are those, pf side rails?
Quoted from CactusJack:I only meant that it would be the closest source for 6.3 VAC. Not to remove a bulb for it. Probably down at the coin door Jones plug would be the cleanest place to add two wires.
I wonder if a Comet bulb that has the Matrix connector coming out of it would work then use that plug to grab 6.3v. 
http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-1-SMD-5050-FLEX-6-3V-QUICK-CONNECT-p/mtx1smdflex.htm
Quoted from Colsond3:Playfield clear is done! Still has to cure for a few weeks. It cleaned up great and awesome touch ups, filling, leveling and shooter lane refurb by sohchx. Definitely recommend him if you need something done.
Looks good but is that all the better the ball trails in the shooter lane and curve could be worked out?
Quoted from Colsond3:Coin door done this morning. Woo hoo! Before and after.
That looks GREAT! 
Quoted from Colsond3:Thanks man. Turned out great. They coated all 3 coin return pins completely despite my instructions, so I have to file and sand a little to get those back in.
Oh I think you can handle it. 
Quoted from Colsond3:I've used bondo on other cabinets, and that's all I used to use. Then I saw a high-end resto guy using this stuff. He swears by it, as long as there's not a gigantic chunk missing. Cures way faster, sands really easy with barely any dust, and doesn't chip at all.
I've seen people use bondo on the front of the cabinet (and elsewhere) and within a few months there are chips in it. I'm going to clear this cab after cleaning, repairing the front and touch ups. Given that the damage was on the front and on the edge, I wanted to use something more reliable and durable.
I've also used this stuff for repair when scoops on the playfield are really damaged, and it works great. Doesn't chip or crack even with a ball pounding it constantly. It's easily paintable, and sometimes I repair the scoop and put a decal over it. Comes out perfect.
You gave the reasons why I'd never use bondo on a game. Look at all the jokes there are about a "Bondo Bomb" cars. 
Quoted from Colsond3:Verdict is good!! LOL
Great picture of her. I take it the monsters don't scare her.
The top apron. It looks like it's just begging for a custom paint job to match the pf. But you want to keep it more original and I can see that. I'm just thinking out loud.
Quoted from Zitt:Let me know if you want me to laser cut you a replacement on my new-to-me epilog laser.
That won't really help with the graphics.. but it might help
Hey Zitt, I was wondering if you could cut me a new Jack Bot mini pf out of lexan? No artwork on it and just the big hole in it.
Quoted from Zitt:I can't. CO2 doesn't cut polycarbonate (lexan).
You need a fiber laser AFAIK; which I do not have.
I can only cut PMMA (acrylic) and other materials like PETG.
Would PETG be strong enough? How scratch resistant is it?
Quoted from Colsond3:Hardware I painted and cleared is a good match.
Looks like a perfect match to me.
Quoted from Colsond3:Thanks Paul...if not perfect it's pretty damn close.
Oh your just to darn picky.
Oh man that's gonna look great with 2 double flex then. I really need to replace that plastic on my Space Shuttle, mine is cracked. I wonder if yours is the same as mine, if it is I could take that orange one off your hands.
Quoted from Colsond3:It should be. Take a look and let me know. I'll send it to you for free.
Hey thanks. In my manual it's listed as Up post # A-8882 and I can't find out anything at Marco or PBL. Where did you get the plastic at?
Quoted from Colsond3:Marco. As I understand it, these are universal for the most part.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7257-12
Hmmm ok I'll try it. But let me give you a few bucks for shipping at least. I'll pm you my address.
Yeah I'd sand and paint the whole inside and maybe even clear it for easy clean up and for sure get the HD leg plates.
Quoted from Colsond3:Yeah, that's what I figured. Would rather have the inside of the cabinet nice, neat and smooth anyway. I would assume that factories just sprayed about a foot down on the sides as a cost-cutting measure back in the day.
A light gray would look nice and would help light it up. Think you could match the color that's already on the sides?
Quoted from Colsond3:At least I feel like I'm making progress. Really want to get this thing done in the next day or two.
Just a bit cramped.
Quoted from Colsond3:Colors just didn't dry right before, so just hit another fresh coat and then clear gloss. Now much better.
You really should let it dry for 24 hours and the clear for 48. If that's not completly dry those things are gonna stick like they're glued on. 
Quoted from Colsond3:Yeah, I've made that mistake before. I let everything dry for 2-3 days usually. I'm just eager to play a game on this thing.
Even when I've let enamel dry for 3 days and sanded it smooth for the next coat. I've had problems with the last coat after sanding not being dry. So after I sand it I let THAT dry for a couple days then apply another coat. Works great then. Tell me about being eager wanting to play a game. I've had my Jackbot in pieces waiting for the new plastic set to arrive to start putting it back together, they arrived last week but I've been so busy. Looks like I'll have some time around Dec. 10 to work on it. I got the game in July and haven't put a single game on it. But oh it's gonna be nice when it's back together.
Wow even the back of the game that no one sees get's purdy'd up. 
Do you have the metal Stern type cab protectors under the plastic ones?
Quoted from Colsond3:Bad ass.
Sharp!
Quoted from Ballypin:I like how you put the “upgraded” Pin Stadium light kit on Xenon
Quoted from Colsond3:Little more before and after...moving along!
That's lookin slick.
Quoted from Colsond3:Thanks Paul. Putting in some time this weekend, paying off. I feel like you've been hanging out with me putting the game back together. LOL.
Just got the lockdown receiver back together, feels like friggin butter.
I feel like I have been too. I've watched since the beginning and been amazed by your craftsmanship. I just wish I could play it when it's done.
Quoted from Colsond3:Appreciate that man. It's not perfect by any stretch, but for the first time I've gone this far on a game...I think I've put in and I'm continuing to put in a good effort. Hopefully others agree and it's at least somewhat appreciated...doing this much on a game is a ton of work. I've polished, powder coated, painted or replaced every little nut and bolt.
Even from the pics I put up in the beginning of this thread, this game was a filthy mess, rusted, oxidized and the cabinet was a shitshow when I brought it home. And the playfield needed a lot of love. If anything, at the least, it's a huge step up from what it was. Once it's back together, I still plan on tweaking little things here and there, and continuing to work on it even if I have to disassemble parts at a time, to make it as perfect or good as possible.
Once I reassemble it, it will be about 80% refurbed, and I'll continue the rest. Most of what remains are tasks that require the quick removal of a part, and I can do the work and put it back. Mainly the backbox still needs some touch ups, or I may just restencil it altogether. That can also be done with the game set up. Great thing about EM's...disconnecting the harnesses and removing the backbox takes all of 3 minutes. But I'd like to get it back together, hook it up, make sure all the electrical/mechanics are good, and play the hell out of it. Sick of it being around the gameroom and garage in pieces when it's so close to being done. Plus I really want to see how this clearcoated playfield rolls.
As for playing it, if you're ever in the Philly area, give me a shout and swing by. You're always welcome.
It's light years better then when you first started. Love to hear what people have to say when you bring it to the show.
Thanks for the invite. Closest I've come to Philly was when I made this video. Ha, rotating the 2nd picture made it squish.
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Quoted from Colsond3:limited
Limited......what about....never mind.
Quoted from Colsond3:You can't find plastics for this game, so I didn't feel like shattering them all.
Can you make plastic protectors for the game or maybe use the clear plastic fender washers to raise the plastics up a bit?
Quoted from Colsond3:I'll try to play with it. I could throw some in incans back in there. Moving on to the backbox now that the Eagles game is over.
What's your plan of attack?
The bb art looks nice and clean for the touch ups. I stripped my Jack Bot light board, sanded both sides, cleared the back with Triple Thick (don't use it, it never really hardens and is easily scratched!) and painted the front flat white. After cleaning the wires I taped them together like this, putting them back in was super easy doing it this way. Ivery time I open the light board to get at the electronics the OCD part of me has a BIG smile, like this I should do this to more games.
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I actually taped them up like this while it was still on the game, I forgot to take a picture of it.
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Saint Paul, MN
