Louisburg, NC
No he did not. I went down to his place and checked both his machine and mine. No manual. I was told that Pinball Resource has Bally manuals from that time period but I have not checked on that.
(Topic ID: 190341)
1 week later
Quoted from Colsond3:Hardware I painted and cleared is a good match.
Looks like a perfect match to me.
Quoted from Colsond3:Thanks Paul...if not perfect it's pretty damn close.
Oh your just to darn picky. 
Quoted from Colsond3:Nice, new PF glass arrived. Now I can throw the armor and lockdown bar frame back together. No idea why they didn't use this one-piece system on other games. As far as I know, just 10 or 12 EM games from the 70s.
Do you mind if I ask how much the glass was from Marco? Bally used the "Lift Glass" or Chop-Top frame beginning in early 1967 and then almost exclusively into 1974. The glass measures 21" x 41 9/16", shorter than standard size glass. I have quotes from several different glass shops and the best price I found was about $ 73.
What a pain in the ass...(Ok partly me being a simpleton). Lesson learned with the old Bally one piece armor set up.
Putting it back together, I reversed what I did to disassemble. Makes sense. But the LD bar just wouldn't lineup, so I took it apart three times trying to shift the rubber glass molding inside the rails and reset it. Once the glass is in, you can't slide it at all. Then it was time to try something different.
Trick seems to be doing the LD bar side first. It's best to line the rails/glass up with the underside LD bar bracket, leaving a gap of about 1/8" between the bottom-most holes in the bracket and the top of the glass (first pic below). Then you get the play you need to be able to shift the top support around (within 1/8" - 1/4") to line it up with the siderail holes.
The spacing and clearance on these things is tight. Turned out pretty damn good though.
Quoted from Ballypin:Do you mind if I ask how much the glass was from Marco? Bally used the "Lift Glass" or Chop-Top frame beginning in early 1967 and then almost exclusively into 1974. The glass measures 21" x 41 9/16", shorter than standard size glass. I have quotes from several different glass shops and the best price I found was about $ 73.
It's actually $84 at Marco right now, but I had a $10 coupon someone had given me.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/G-337
I've had other Bally games that used this glass, and for the most part I've found it to be in the $75 to $85 range.
Quoted from Ballypin:Thanks. There is a slight discount to buy 2 and the price drops to $ 66 each. I agree, these frames suck to take apart and put back together.
Try the method I described above....makes it much easier. There's just not as much play on the lockdown bar side, so do that end first.
Oh man that's gonna look great with 2 double flex then. 
I really need to replace that plastic on my Space Shuttle, mine is cracked. I wonder if yours is the same as mine, if it is I could take that orange one off your hands.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Oh man that's gonna look great with 2 double flex then. I really need to replace that plastic on my Space Shuttle, mine is cracked. I wonder if yours is the same as mine, if it is I could take that orange one off your hands.
It should be. Take a look and let me know. I'll send it to you for free.
Quoted from Colsond3:It should be. Take a look and let me know. I'll send it to you for free.
Hey thanks. In my manual it's listed as Up post # A-8882 and I can't find out anything at Marco or PBL. Where did you get the plastic at?
Quoted from Colsond3:Marco. As I understand it, these are universal for the most part.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7257-12
Hmmm ok I'll try it. But let me give you a few bucks for shipping at least. I'll pm you my address.
Debating. Anybody have a preference on repainting the inside of the cabinet?
I've only repainted a cab twice, usually just take the color down to right below the support mounts. With this, I think I'd like to repaint the entire inside of the cabinet. It's a little more choppy than I would like given how far I'm going on this one.
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Yeah I'd sand and paint the whole inside and maybe even clear it for easy clean up and for sure get the HD leg plates.
Quoted from Colsond3:preference on repainting the inside of the cabinet?
With all the attention to detail you have put elsewhere, don't skimp on the inside of the cab!
Quoted from Atari_Daze:With all the attention to detail you have put elsewhere, don't skimp on the inside of the cab!
Yeah, that's what I figured. Would rather have the inside of the cabinet nice, neat and smooth anyway. I would assume that factories just sprayed about a foot down on the sides as a cost-cutting measure back in the day.
Quoted from Colsond3:Yeah, that's what I figured. Would rather have the inside of the cabinet nice, neat and smooth anyway. I would assume that factories just sprayed about a foot down on the sides as a cost-cutting measure back in the day.
A light gray would look nice and would help light it up. Think you could match the color that's already on the sides?
Quoted from MustangPaul:A light gray would look nice and would help light it up. Think you could match the color that's already on the sides?
It's actually a really light blue like the base color on the outside of the cabinet. Here's a better picture before I start sanding later today. I have the blues and whites to match it up. I'll just have to play with it for a little while.
My concern too was painting the bottom. It's that thinner sheet with the honeycomb like indentations.
Hitting the trans/mech board to get this tedious part out of the way, and to have something to test out the new compressor and airbrush before hitting the cabinet. This thing is so damn filthy it had to be done anyway. Hasn't seen the light of day out of the game probably since 1970.
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Quoted from Colsond3:You know you are out of control OCD when you start polishing the harness clip mounts.
LOL, my thoughts exactly whilst I was polishing some screws earlier today ...
Quoted from g94:LOL, my thoughts exactly whilst I was polishing some screws earlier today ...
Too funny...most of us are out of control in this hobby. Speaking of, the paint & clear just cured on the transformer board mounting bolts. More evidence that I have issues.
Quoted from Colsond3:At least I feel like I'm making progress. Really want to get this thing done in the next day or two.
Just a bit cramped.
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