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I've never seen one below $4000, even beat up ones. Doesn't mean that they weren't sold for less than that though. I paid $2500-$2900 back in '03 or "04 (can't remember it's been so long, and I don't have a receipt because it was a cash deal through a private seller. And mine was pretty beat up). Generally people don't give them up once they have one. Would you want to fix one up yourself or have everything done already?
Quoted from mima:I just recently bought one in pretty close condition as discribed above. Just want to get the feal for if it was a good/ok/bad deal. Payed about 3500
Sounds like a good deal. I would like a pin that needs TLC and just buy what it needs slowly over time rather than dumping a lot on a pin that needs nothing. It's kinda like a payment plan .
Quoted from Arcade:Managed to buy mine for $1700 shopped out from a retailer back in 2001.
Those were the good old days
Now that's a deal
Quoted from chadderack:That is wise approach, the one I'm taking with MB. (Not sure if it will work though... I probably overpayed for my Addams )
As long as your happy with it, that's all that matters. There always seems to be a better deal after you buy something (should be in Murphy's Law )
Is the coil weak? Did the welds break on your scoop assembly? Very common that they break, and it puts some slop in the scoop (left, right movement). I tied mine together with a wire underneath where you can't see it. The proper way to fix it is to re-tac the welds. Not sure if this your problem, but it might help.
P.S. Mima, I love your machine. It looks great, nice job.
Yes. Underneath the bookcase there is a height adjustment. Spinning it one way raises it and the other lowers it. I think you loosen the Philip screw on the bottom then spin the nut up or down. Make sure the plastic at the bottom of the bookcase hasn't broke or crumpled. You'll have to shim it or buy a new one, as it won't sit level.
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:Joined the club last week and am in need of some instruction cards for the apron. Any recommendation for some good ones?
Here ya go. There may be more if you go through the thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/do-you-create-your-own-custom-rule-cards#post-303661
Quoted from Skypilot:I'm just finishing up a playfield restoration.I have a set of plastics from IPB. Can anyone explain where these supposedly went/go. Its always interesting to see some of these unique plastics.
I thought they were used on the proto games but ended up getting deleted from production. I'm trying to remember where they went, and I could be wrong, but... I thought the longer skinny green one originally went somewhere on top of the side rail in the graveyard. I think the arch went in front of the side ramp entrance (not positive)? Someone who really knows might chime in.
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:Any Addams owners ever see this? In certain animations I'm getting extra pixels on the display. It's not the ribbon cable and not the display. Most animations are fine, it's just a few. Any ideas?
Well if your sure it's not the ribbon cables because you have all new ones, then my next guess would be the RAM chip at U24 (Although I would of thought it needed new cables). Hopefully others will chime in so you can get a consensus.
Personally I would pull the DMD board and check all the components, possible there's a bad IC in there. It's nice to have a board to test against (I have CFTBL and TAF, they use alot of the same boards).
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:While I'm in troubleshooting mode, any suggestions for a weak kickout on the chair scoop? It can get so bad that sometimes when I hit two balls in it during multiball it won't kick them all the way out.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:I had this same problem with my CftBL and resolved it by just adjusting the kickout coil underneath the playfield. ... sometimes it just gets out of alignment and it does not hit the ball right in the middle!
Like amendes said, try adjusting first. If that doesn't work, check the transistors that control it. Q64 Outhole or Q70 Lockup Kickout on the driver board (according to the operations manual), not sure which is the swamp kickout. If they're OK, then a new coil is needed.
Quoted from Arcade:Swapped out my old smokey ramp for a new crystal clear one.
Would you sell the old one? If so, how much? I'd be interested.
Quoted from CrazyLevi:Anybody have a clue on this one? My Thing hand won't move because I'm missing the linkage between these two parts (moving motor plate and the Thing hand camshaft). Are these available?
Here's a pic without the opto board and you can see the piece connecting the two metal plates. Rotated picture of mine below it for comparison.
I think I may have found the piece inside the game but not sure how to secure it - I think I'm looking for a small screw type thingee. It's in there somewhere...I hope!
Does this help? Looks like the screw is either 6/32, or 1/4-20. Most machine screws used on TAF are 6/32, 8/32, 10/32, or 1/4-20 of varying lengths. Most hardware stores carry them and if they're too long buy the bolt cutting wire strippers that cut 6-/32 to 10/32.pasted_image_(resized).png
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