As of today, I’m Creepy and I’m kooky! But actually pick it up tomorrow. This will be my first pin that I actually want to mod up!
As of today, I’m Creepy and I’m kooky! But actually pick it up tomorrow. This will be my first pin that I actually want to mod up!
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:
Welcome Honored guests!
Mod away, mines a hot mess of mods!
Thanks man, got it, cleaned it, and haven’t wanted to walk away from it since. Got a good one! There’s one crazy spot on the playfield where the wood looks splintered up, and there’s a second layer of Mylar in it, which is odd, but it’s not killing the gameplay. Whats crazy is I almost can’t angle this thing high enough to get the level right, and the front is to the floor and the back is all the way up!
I’m looking into the ROMs, because I’m running P-2, and it looks like there’s some debate on going with original vs gold due to Cousin It scoring. I won’t open that here as I’m sure it was discussed earlier. I have some reading to do haha.
All these toys and decals for the game is awesome, I’m going to drop so much money on this pin! Haha
So here’s a question, I’ve been playing this Addams a good many times in the week we have had it, and am noticing the shot to the middle ramp seems to always go to the left flipper and never across the wireform to the right flipper. Does the player control this somehow or is it just not working?
Assuming not working haha
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:
Does the diverter work in tests?
Bear ramp = wire form to right flipper.
Thing flips = to mini flipper.
Figured it out! Luckily it was an easy fix. It was working in the switch test, and hitting the switches myself it would score. Finally when I sent the ball slowly through it I figured out the switch wasn’t getting hit far enough by the ball to trigger!
Quoted from snowvictim:
You mean by the switch actuator or the diverter?
The switch actuator. If the ball rolls up there too slow, it doesn’t make it through. Finding it hard to get the balance right between the switch getting triggered consistently and the switch being too tight and catches the ball occasionally.
Just got some mods for my TAF, need some spotlights. I need Black Friday to kick me up some deals! Lol ( I also need to get a Lester)
Question- I got the fuse mod for the magnets, and one of the magnets no longer had the connectors on them. Wires were cut and twisted together, then covered with duct tape. To get them to the fuse wires, does it matter which wire connects to the other? Both magnet wires look black which is why I’m asking. So trying to be sure it was done right.
Just put my Black Friday purchases to work and have been putting in the LEDs for inserts, GI and backglass. Have more GI to do, but put in my first set of spotlights too and I feel like it’s TOO bright. Both of these pics are with the LEDs and spots in, but it feels more like the brightest one in person. I just started looking up pinstadium from some suggestions on Facebook, either that or might drop from the 4LED in the spots to 2LED? Anyone else have thoughts from theirs, or have I just been looking at lights too much for one day? Ha
Odd question, Uncle Fest...ahem...Lester stopped working. How exactly would I trouble shoot this thing? I tried the clips on another power source and no go. The chair lights still work. Not sure how to tackle this?
Quoted from Durzel:
It's possible the LED has just gone bad, it does happen. It's pretty unscientific, if it's connected to a working insert then the wires will be getting voltage. It basically can only be a dead LED or wire come off.
Is it replaceable with a piece I could buy somewhere? Not sure how these get put together.
Quoted from fatality83:
More then likely the wire broke off the resistor or a leg broke off the resistor. You can order a replacement LED from Mouser or other electronic supply stores or a replacement resistor. I recently went through a whole Fester issue. My fester fell out of his chair. Apparently mine is a cheaper made one and is made out of plastic instead of rubber. I didn't stop playing and decapitated him with a ball lol. I glued the head back on and from my taking it in an out a couple times, the resistor then broke. I said bahhhh who needs this and hooked it up without it. The LED then burnt (what a surprise right). The LED that came in him was a stupid clear one to make matters worse, most have a red or yellow LED. At this point I was so pissed I had him out for awhile and was just gonna buy a new Fester. One day I decided to try and repair it one last time. I had to order a new resistor and LED from mouser. Pull him out of the game. My resistor was soldered to the end of the wire right at the alligator clip. You may have to remove heat shrink or whatever to get at it. If you have a spare switching power supply, you can hook it up to the 5volts and test it out of the game. If not, a multimeter set to diode test mode should be enough to at least get the LED to illuminate FAINTLY. With the resistor it may not illuminate much at all. LED's typically don't burn out unless your a bonehead like me and try sending 5 volts directly to them without the right resistor.
This is the LED I ordered from Mouser, you can order a red, yellow or purple whatever color you want.
If your resistor leg broke off, here is the replacement you will need. Keep in mind, this resistor pairs along with the LED's linked above. It should probably be fine working with the LED that is already on Fester but just keep that in mind.
If you already have a spare LED laying around and don't need to order the above one, you can tell what resistor you will need if you know the specs of the LED. Use this calculator to determine what resistor you need. http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/led-resistor-calculator
If you order the LEDs above the resistor I linked will work and like I said it SHOULD work with the LED that is already on your fester if your LED is still good.
Mine has been working for months now since I repaired him and I fixed him falling out of the chair with some velcro and hot glue.
Interesting, mine must be plastic too because I got him for a deal as his hand was broken off. What color did you end up going with? Yellow? White?
Somehow the instructions above sound hard, yet easy at the same time. I’ve only learned minor solder repairs at this point, haven’t run new wires, so some learning to be done here. How did you get the LED out of Fester? Just push or pull it right out, or is it glued in somewhere?
Quoted from fatality83:
If you can solder it isn't hard at all. Just tin whatever you are soldering before hand and solder the new resistor or led on or both. Use heat shrink to protect your solder.
I have went with a red led and hooked it up to the red light on the chair that only flashes when the chair is ready to start multi-ball. Its all up to you though, you can have it come on with the yellow light to indicated it's ready to start a mode at the chair.
I just cut the wires off off the back of his head. Then the LED should pull out of his head. Mine wasn't glued in or anything but did take a little force to pull it. Just be careful you don't snap his head off since yours is plastic too.
I would first start with just looking at the wiring. More then likeley there is a break in the wiring or if you have alligator clips on it, maybe one came loose. Trace the wiring where they go through the playfield. If both aligator clips are attached to whatever they are hooked up for power you know that probably isn't the issue. Then I would start examining the wiring and aligator clips if it has them to make sure they are still attached and nothing came loose. Finally look for the resistor. It should be on the red wire. More then likely under the rubber boot of the alligator clip, peel it back and examine it for broken connection. I doubt your LED went bad but anything is possible, just more likely its a loose wire or connection somewhere imo.
If you want you can post a picture and I can tell you if I see anything off or what to look at.
Do you think this #86 bulb is the right size for Lester? My guess is no, but hey, worth a shot ha.
Quoted from Durzel:
There are two things here. Firstly, it has to learn when to flip, and initially it does this by a process of trial and error. Once it has calibrated itself if the machine is moved to a different location, or the levelling changed, or maybe even if it is cleaned or waxed, then it will become unreliable because the conditions have changed.
If the game has been changed in any of these ways Thing flips has to be recalibrated, and this is done by going into the menu and choosing "Reset Thing Flips Data". The game will then start learning the new conditions from scratch.
Secondly, I'm pretty sure it's meant to be fairly unreliable - both because the ball can and will go around the ramp at different speeds, drop down from the ramp slightly differently each time, adding or reducing a delay before it reaches the flipper, and because the game designers didn't want it to always make the shot.
If the flipper itself is strong enough to make the Swamp shot, and is trying to make it, then chances are it simply needs recalibrating or is working as intended.
This is crazy because I jumped on to ask this very question! So here’s my situation. I had the standard ROMs, Thing flipped into the swamp almost 100% of the time correctly. I just installed the Gold ROMs, and now it can’t hit a thing. It flips way too late and misses 100% of the time.
So is it really learning? Or do I have to calibrate some how?
Quoted from CLEllison:
Thought I'd share and pass the savings on to my fellow TAF enthusiasts. I'm notoriously cheap and I absolutely cringe at the prices "some" people are charging for some of the mods. I realize they need to make money but .............
The vault mod typically goes for ~$50. Did you know this is just a 1/24 scale pencil sharpener?
This can be had for under $7 shipped amazon.com link »
Buy yourself a $5 role of outdoor double sided tape to anchor it down
amazon.com link »
You see the lighted vault selling for almost $200? Just wow. Drill a hole in the rear of the vault, put in place a #44 pinch light socket held in place by a generous amount of gorilla glue. Solder on a couple alligator clips and attach to the vault light. Total cost ~$20
The knight mod "I think" is really cool but is it ~$45-$55 cool? No.
Is it $24.95 cool? YES! https://www.coinoppartsetc.com/product/parts-sale-pinball-machine-parts/addams-family-pinball-machine-game-modification-silver
USe some of that awesome double sided outdoor tape you purchased earlier to anchor it down.
Candlestick phone mod - typically $~40-$50.
How about typically under $7? amazon.com link »
Don't like the bronze hit it with a light dusting of black rattle can.
I DO want the fester mod ... not the plastic model I see being offered (that breaks quite often from what I've read) but the rubber one. If anyone has a line on one for less than the $80-$120 mark I would love know where from otherwise I'm going to have to bite the bullet.
That’s what I saw too - the knight, phone, train and vault are all die cast pencil sharpeners. eBay all day. I also got a grandfather clock, but ended up sticking with the knight in that spot.
Quoted from CLEllison:
How to make thing your “own” thing. A tut for the cheap folks
I tried printing the thing graphics available in this thread and it simply WILL NOT print to the correct size. Since this site won’t allow anything other than pictures to be posted (you’ll see what I mean later) I am going to tell/show you exactly how to get this done. I also cover where I screwed up so you don’t have to repeat my mistakes. And for those that ask why I don’t offer to email instead – people disappear/die. This way the work lives on forever.
Things used in this project: (See what I did there?)
Color printer, vinyl adhesive paper, exacto blade, Thing box artwork from here, Microsoft snippet, Microsoft Word 2016, household cutting board and a little imagination.
Download the graphic from here:
Now open the picture you just downloaded full screen and start Microsoft Snippet. You will want to as accurately as possible trace each individual item and save all 4 pieces as a .PNG file. Try NOT to get any outer “white” when you snip. What you put in is what you get. One at a time open BOTH side pictures and whatever default app they open with should allow you to rotate them 90 degrees. Save the changes.
QUICK NOTE: For the record the attached pictures show my photo customization against a person who sells these decals and the original picture on this site. The colors of mine are much richer, define lines in the leather better and the sheen of the vinyl paper I used is much glossier. Very happy with the end result!
Open Microsoft Word. Instructions provided may have different options/locations due to versions. Start a new blank document. (If you don’t have word then do it at your place of employment.) Open file explorer and browse to where you just saved those 4 photos. Hold down your CTRL key and one by one click each photo. Ensure you choose then in this order (side, side,top,front). Once they are all highlighted, left click one of the photos and keep your clicker down. Move your mouse downward. You’ll see the photos coming with your mouse. Position your mouse over Microsoft Word at the bottom of your screen and let your clicker go. The photos will be imported into your blank document. You’ll likely notice that you now have 2 pages instead of one. It’s OK we’re going to fix that right now. For each photo you are now going to have to set the dimensional parameters.
NOTE: For ALL photos ensure under the scale section that checkmarks are REMOVED from “lock aspect ratio” and “Relative to original picture size”.
Right click side picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 0.78” x Width Absolute 4.45”. Click OK
Right click other side picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 0.78” x Width Absolute 4.45”. Click OK
Right click TOP picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 3.77” x Width Absolute 3.95” – Click OK
Right click FRONT picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 1.27” x Width Absolute 3.95” – Click OK
Now all photos are on one page. To create gaps in between each photo simply click at the bottom right of the photo. You'll see a blinking cursor bar. Just press enter until you have the gap you want. SAVE your document. While the picture sown shows the gaps fairly minimal use as much as you can between the pictures that keeps everything on one page.
It’s time to reap the fruits of your labor! Let’s print this bad boy. The vinyl gloss paper is sticky. REMOVE ALL current paper in printer tray and insert one sheet glossy side down. DO NOT OVERUSE your printer tray alignment tools to “snug up” the paper alignment. Have it sitting flush against the right edge of the tray and gently resting as far forward in the tray as you can. This paper is finicky.
Go ahead and select print. This part is a little grey area as most printer driver options will look different. Some offer certain options that others either don’t or the options are just located/buried some where else. Attempt to replicate my printer settings shown in the pictures. I do suggest you run a test print choosing black ink/gray scale to see if things print correctly. No sense of wasting ink (ask me how I know). When printing is done let her sit for 15 minutes or so. You may choose to use a rattle can clear coat or a self-adhesive laminate sheet. I chose neither originally and found the ink is so easily marred up I'm going to go buy some self-adhesive laminate. Apply it, cut around decals and then apply. Heed my advice
IF you did it right, you should have a beautiful printout laying in front of you. Since most of us don’t have a machine that we can use to scan and cut for us we’ll have to do it by hand. The vinyl material is easily marred, whatever you use for straight edge – ALWAYS lift it up when you move it. Picture showing circled items in blue is showing how I marred the ink and I how also slipped with the knife and scraped the decal. I use a standard plastic household cutting board to cut the decal on. Using any straight edge item you’ll want to align the straight edge to the VERY outer edge of the picture. I suggest you choose a couple spots to test blade depth cut/strength first. You’ll “feel” the blade actually cutting into the paper. The idea is to cut the vinyl and not the paper – which sounds easier than what it really is because the vinyl I used is super thin but did so to ensure no feeding issues through the printer. With your exacto blade (fresh blade of course!) you’ll now cut a line from one side all the way to the other. KEEP THE BLADE STRAIGHT. Cutting at an angle can result in ink damage. Wipe your blade after every cut. A small amount of debris on the blade can cause an ill cut and when you attempt to peel it off it WILL deal you grief. You'll literally feel a difference in blade cutting if you have a chunk of glue get in the way. Cut it again!In the attached photos I show I have cut everything possible so the excess (white unprinted areas) can be peeled off first. Start peeling the excess vinyl off. Peel at an angle where you are pulling the vinyl away from the decal. This is where you find out how badly you suck at cutting things. When you reach the edge of your photo and it appears to be coming up STOP! Put your exacto blade tip in the cut line of the outer cut and follow it back to the graphic pressing down harder. You’re going to likely have to do this more than you care too. The vinyl should easily pull away from the graphic. If it doesn't DO NOT PULL the vinyl. This will distort the graphic piece. (Ask me how I know)
Now it’s not mandatory for you to paint Things box – but c’mon now – you just went through all of this and you’re going to get lazy? Lightly sand the box to rough it up, wipe it down clean so the black rattle can paint has something better to adhere to.
Lastly – to apply the decals. Use the tip of your exacto blade to lift the decal away from the backing so you can get a hold of it. These things are THIN and SUPER sticky. Likely a one chance type of ordeal if you use the dry method. You can shoot Things box with Windex and lay the decal down. When you are satisfied with its location then place a paper towel over the decal and press down gently attempting to squeeze any liquid from underneath and absorb on the paper towel. As a test I sprayed Windex on top of the decal and wiped. Yes, the ink did in fact slightly come off but the effect is was actually kind of cool!
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How easy is it to do all of that ... and mail it to me? Haha
Quoted from robgo777:
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, and it fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. It also fits with a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers, although you will have to remove the right speaker block to install the light board. There is some slight ghosting though, I will see if I can figure out a way to eliminate that but it isn't very bad as it is.
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
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Count me in for 1!
Quoted from MintIndeed:
Backbox layered lighting (thanks Comet!):
Layered blinking effects using Comet Pinball LEDs.
Cousin It: 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Slow, Warm White
Fester (lower): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Fester (upper): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Slow, Cool White
Children (lower): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Children (upper): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Slow, Cool White
Auntie: 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Woman in dirt: 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Behind Morticia and Gomez: 1SMD Bulb - Cool White
Thing and other lights: 1SMD Bulb - Warm White
I put a flame bulb behind the grandma. Adds to the fire/cauldron image.
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