Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider thecnypinguy.
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I welcome
Addams Family #5
Not perfect but good enough for me
Been there and back again over the last 20 years ...
Back into the collection ... kids were younger and didn’t understand it as much
Now they get the full experience Knowing rules to fully explore the game
31C85382-A9A8-479C-A8DC-ED7416F9EB93 (resized).jpegWere there any code versions besides GOLD
That released the locked balls
Running L3 now
I know the differences are very minimal with Addams Family
Thanks !!
Okay Addams Group
Need your help
This is my 5th Addams I’ve owned since 2004 and it’s a childhood favorite of mine
Now with that there comes that moment when I walk away from it and sell it .. move to the next pin .. you know that moment
THEN months - years later I “re discover” the wow factor of The Addams Family from either a show game played or a buddy has one Etc
and I’m reborn hunting down yet another Addams and again the price value has again gone up
There getting harder to find as your all aware and don’t want to hunt another down next year at yet again a price increase
Any ideas to help it’s keeper appeal ??
Already have her pretty cut throat on the settings and what not
Being honest and want to keep her bolted down but fear I’ll stop wanting the play
I have seen new options out there
Shaker Motor and a new sound board
Are these really worthy or just a small notch in the belt of wow appeal
Color Dmd in Addams really doesn’t seem needed to me anyways, as it was the beginning of that Pixel technology and the clips are nothing compared to today
And yes that shooter rod I have owned over the years and reinstall on every joining Addams 
Any advice from owners and fans of a true Pat Lawlor Classic
04BD2E1F-B4E9-4C1C-851D-65202A689AEA (resized).jpegEC86F547-393C-40BF-976D-35EE49B487A8 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from gac:Haha - If this is your FIFTH Addams, I don't think anyone else can tell you what is necessary to keep it "bolted down". I think the answer is it isn't a keeper for you. However, if you do keep it, get the colordmd. JMHO
It was usually the case if want something newer what can I replace in the lineup easily enough and Addams was always that game
Quoted from MintIndeed:Honestly, it sounds like you want to keep the game — when you get tired of it just give it some space; loan it to a friend, put a dust cover on it or put it in storage. A ColorDMD isn't going to keep the game feeling 'new' for 2-5 years.
There's a lot you can do to make your game feel a bit more modern (PinSound, shaker, etc) but really the shots are going to stay the same the game isn't going to fundamentally change, and those are all aesthetic choices which will only make it feel revitalized for so long.
That's why I'm recommending you just figure out a way to give the game some 'space' until next time you want to keep it in your active duty roster.
That’s a solid idea
I’ll keep that in mind
Without loosing ownership I could give it that hibernation period to miss and revisit
Where do
I find the
Motion Shaker Motor / Pinsound
I assume pin dmd for the display to freshen it up
Thanks
James
Quoted from MintIndeed:PinSound PLUS + Motion Control (shaker)
Alternatively there's the Pinshaker which is less expensive overall (does not require replacing the sound board like the PinSound does); it triggers on fewer things (basically it can trigger on any Solenoid activation; kickers, magnets, etc - so quite a lot, it's what I use)
I've tried ColorDMD's LED and LCD versions, and prefer the LCD version (looks more like the original DMD but in colour, and is MUCH easier to install and doesn't require modifying or replacing the THING light board). Here's the ColorDMD LCD for TAF.
I also highly recommend both an LED OCD and G.I. OCD board. You can see a side-by-side here and my take on them here.
Thank you
I’ll Take a look
Has anyone on this group ordered a replacement cabinet from VIrtuaPin.net
Been toying with it as mine has its share of mileage
Has anyone bought one on here
If so any pics or review
Thanks
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:The last cabinet I got from them was a TAF. No pics but you will not be disappointed.
Paul makes them as close to original as you can get. No issues whatsoever and great quality!
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have to second this!
Paul makes a beautiful cabinet!
I just put one on my Funhouse resto and its perfect, way better than the original cabinet.
Just beautiful workmanship.
Plus I like the way you can order a bare cabinet or have them do it all for you as a "turn key" solution.
Thank you both
i will reach out
Addams Family owners I have a question
Looking to get a new CPR for my Addams
Question
Between: Silver & Gold CPR playfields
Are there any color differences or they strictly differences in the screen process / blemishes
Anyone have side by side comparisons by chance
Thanks for your time
Quoted from pbjksb:thank you so much! That took care of it. I have another question, hope you don’t mind. I have Twilight zone (I know this is Addams forum but I thought I would ask) and test report shows “clock is broken”. Clock hands move. I changed the board inside to LED from Casper. What do you recommend? TIA[quoted image]
As a former TZ owner the clock opto Board has issues
Check the clock test feature
I always considered TZ the Sister of TAF
Both amazing PL designs
Mirror Blade question
I have an extra set that came off a newer style Stern but had No Hole for the cabinet hinge bolt
Will will bind up ? Are they universal for all games or do they make a with hole for Bally WMS games as Sterns are recessed and B&W have the Allen Key plug
Okay folks
I bought a pin shakers (16 triggers)
Any preferences on the settings ?
Not sure how it really works as it’s just dip switches
Honestly thought it had multiple clips to attach your desired effect
Lmk
Quoted from glpinball:I put in a pinshaker and just set it up for the power. That was more than enough shaking for me.
Cool
Thought that and for the knocker for Séance
Maybe bookcase
Is there a dip switch chart anyone has created that shows was that switch triggers ?
Hi Folks
I bought an Coin Taker LED flipper button kit
The directions show the coin door board for my power but my board doesn’t even have the connector pictured
Where else can I hook to 12vdc
Please see pics
Should be pin 1 and 4
D548688D-4726-40CE-A564-FEC9E9D0F018 (resized).jpegE8120988-D94E-4F3D-999D-4673ED3CB0EE (resized).jpegQuoted from Coyote:You can add the plug, or solder the wires directly to the pin pads there on the board where the connector should be.
Okay so even though the connectors not present this version Board should still produce the 12vdc
Thank you
I’ll
Test with a meter and give it a try
I honestly thought someone desoldered the connector and dip switches
Let’s play a game
What’s wrong with this display
It’s an issue that developed a few months ago
Already done
- New Ribbon Cable
- Replaced the dmd driver board
The actual display looks great in my opinion
Now even with the replacement dmd driver still produces the issue
Do you think the dmd is ready to say good bye or is there something I’m over looking
Let me know your thoughts
Quoted from Coyote:Looks like it's already said goodbye, sadly. Looks outgassed.
It will go from looking perfect to that
After a few minutes
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Many thanks for that. I photoshopped it in about a half hour. I will attach it incase anyone ever needs to make a replacment.[quoted image]
Funny you post the bookcase adjustment tag and this happened TODAY !! LOL
First time in 2yrs
F2F66FE0-E523-4650-B74B-BDD0DD496E9B (resized).jpegQuoted from pinballinreno:Looks great, I usually have to reclear the CPR playfields.
If the inserts edges arent shrunken in you should be good to go.
Yea this was in a collectors hands for over a year
Feels very smooth
30A069EF-B399-44D5-8993-7BEB8E0B87E3 (resized).jpeg32AD6DC4-5F42-4970-84AB-2531286D9F02 (resized).jpeg41A96F7B-74EA-48D1-90A3-307F6B2EFD63 (resized).jpeg8F2BF4D4-109F-497C-85AD-1B40880AA879 (resized).jpegDA95F585-7EC1-43A8-A13A-8772B8675BC2 (resized).jpegQuoted from pinballinreno:Shine a light from underneath to check the keylines. Its easy to touch them up if needed, if you are going to re-clear it.
CPR playfields arent known for their mirror finishes as evident in the pics.
Looks like it could use a couple coats of clear and then a sand/buff it down, paying attention to the insert edges.
The extra clear would also fill in the grain showing.
You can either leave it alone, or fix it before you start the swap.
Its a nice playfield either way.
Just depends on the level of restoration.
Just a very nice looking machine
Definitely will not be a HEP etc
Giving her a new lease on life
Current Field
232D6AA7-3658-417A-A7D6-CE1E1CB4ED18 (resized).jpegHad anyone done a cabinet for Addams using RAD CALS
I watched a video on a Taxi install looks very nice but then just saw that post on the BSD color issue on his decals
Anyone use or have feedback for TAF
I was going to purchase an entire new cabinet but then realize it’s for me and my personal use with no plans to sell so fixing what I have and having money for something else seems like better plans
It will never be a fully restored game but shooting for a helluva nice example for my family to enjoy
Already have been acquiring:
CPR Gold Field
CPR mirrored back glass
New Plastic set
Quoted from Birdnest:I have a set of the TAF rad cals (not applied yet) and I am happy with how they look. This is the 3rd radcal set for me and only one that I was disappointed with was the ones for TOTAN.
Thank you for the feedback
If you redo the cabinet would you mind taking a few photos etc pretty please
Quoted from cconway84:Is it sad that I have a Addams Gold at home but I’m still dropping quarters in this when I go to the bar?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I still find it a challenge when it’s not your personal machine and when you drop a quarter in it it’s that height of adrenaline to do your best !!
I’ve played many Addams in the wild - Of course not as many as they used to be
Plus we got to keep the operators earning lol
My Addams coin door lamps do not work (2 slots)
Never have now that I think about it
New bulbs and wiring in the head looks fine
In manual shows from coin door board it’s Row 1 but don’t see anything that stands out
Any help is greatly appreciated
No big deal if that stay out as mentioned never really noticed they were not lit until today
Quoted from LTG:Get a meter. Check where you have power and where not.
And check continuity of wiring.
Miss a connector on the driver board ?
LTG : )
Your the Best Lloyd
Was a bad wire it was a in the connector but brittle and not making a connection
Let there finally be ‘coin door’ light !!
My son shocked me with a 4 way combo
Ramp
Return to flippers
Through graveyard upper right flipper to the side ramp
Lower left flipper in the swamp
Super proud !!
Doing a PF swap out for my Addams after many years
What would you recommend for kick outs and ball drops on the new field ? Will be the CPR Gold not a IPB issue field (if it matters)
Mylar or not necessary for being strictly home use play moving forward
Thanks
Anyone by chance have a spare Addams Cliffy for shooter lane
Message me if you have one
Cliffys lead time is pretty far out at this time
Thanks
James
Just completed a CPR swap
Field boots up everything works but
Thing / bookcase and Optos
Going through it all seems like my 12v secondary
Any ideas where to start looking
Everything was labeled and went super smooth
Thanks
EDIT: all fixed - 2 pin connector was the issue
Is there anyway to realign Thing ?
I just installed a new field and notice now a heavy binding with the hand and the wood of the field
I used the dimpled holes but assume they were not perfect
Any advise is great
Thanks
Quoted from monkfe:They're never perfect, people make drilling templates from the original to get it right....
How would you recommend doing that with the new holes already in place ?
Honestly didn’t it would it been an issue
Fill holes and go from there ?
Quoted from pinballinreno:For the bottom of the playfield:
I just use a piece of 24" parchment paper taped onto the old playfield.
Then I punch thru all the holes and mark them with a sharpie.
Then I place the paper over the new playfield and line up the holes in the paper with the major features.
You can clearly see where the dimples are good and where they are off.
I then hammer a new dimple with a sharp nail-set from my template where the dimples are off.
I would say that most of the dimples are pretty close usually, but its really handy to have a set of new dimples that are accurate.
Where the dimples are dead-on, I still reinforce them with a deeper dimple from my nail-set.
For the top of the playfield:
I set the old one on top and carefully check every single hole with a bright flashlight.
If a hole is found missing, I put masking tape over the area and use the old playfield ad a drill template and drill it out.
This method has served me well for years and works very well.
Thank you
I’ll use this on the next field swap
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:There's only two screws that hold the box in place and it's easy to move a slight bit one way or the other.
You may have to fill the screw holes once you find the correct location.
Okay I’ll see what I can do
It’s already flush against the 180 kicker to the clear subway
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Okay I’ll see what I can do
It’s already flush against the 180 kicker to the clear subway
All set
I used a rubber mallet and gave the box 3 good whacks now thing doesn’t hang up
So after a long and endearing task of doing my PF swap and dialing on everything
I play game 1
And ….. after Thing takes the ball now it rests right in his wrist (along the metal bracket)
Any ideas ? The game is level etc
Did it 2x more times
Prior to the swap never ever happened
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:So after a long and endearing task of doing my PF swap and dialing on everything
I play game 1
And ….. after Thing takes the ball now it rests right in his wrist (along the metal bracket)
Any ideas ? The game is level etc
Did it 2x more times
Prior to the swap never ever happened
DOH !!
the ‘Anti-Trap’ bracket was accidentally installed at the wrong angle actually trapping the ball
Rotated in the correct position and thing now sends the box to the 180 kicker
Issue with my Thing delivery to the 180 kicker into the subway
Here is what happens 3 different ways so I’m a touch frustrated as I cannot pinpoint the issue
1-Thing takes ball = Ball gets stuck (ball search will clear the ball)
2-Thing takes ball = Kicker pops 2x ball finally makes it and game feeds ball to kicker (almost like a timing issue)
3- Thing operates perfectly = takes balls / falls into metal box / feeds to kicker and lock is as designed
The box is aligned properly and that doesn’t seem to the an issue transferring ball to the kicker
Thing operates fine and takes the ball like it should
Went through the thread and didn’t find much on what I am going through
Any help or suggestions are welcome and appreciated
Can someone please do Me a quick favor
Go into Sw edge on Addams and upload a photo or confirm what I’m seeing on my game with these 4 pics
Here is mine - note the right COL 4th from Bottom
Thing UP is closed but he is down
Is this correct ?
In his motor test he appears to be fine with his motion and the UP / DOWN switch
961ABE71-24DD-4E01-B89A-167ADCDFAFBA (resized).jpeg40DB9514-7497-494A-AC00-08989C653BBB (resized).jpegEB8353BA-727F-4C69-A945-D79FAB382321 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from LTG:LTG : )
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you so much Lloyd !!
Quoted from Williampinball:Does anyone know why some TAF has two trasformers in the base Cab
I have a kiss pinball machine that was originally in Canada and it also was equipped with two transformers. I did remove the secondary one. There was a label on this machine regarding Canadian utility company specifications, so maybe it has something to do with a direct region in Canada
UPDATE:
The label on Kiss was
Ontario Hydro Electrical Equipment
I just did a CPR swap
Will be posting a Nice Used Addams Field
My buddies were actually shocked I did a swap out
Will post pictures soon but here is one before the swap to show you what it looks like
Asking 450$ shipped UPS in the CPR box
(us shipping only please)
Message with interest
E9F21F74-BB25-4811-A762-63E337D3373A (resized).jpegQuoted from mmr61184:Yeah I am on the fence on the bodies. I meant the translucent colored skirts like the red skirts that you can somewhat see through or even green that goes with the grass in the cemetery. I know it’s sacrilege for those that are purists so I probably will keep it original
I had the trans colored bodies installed on my new field to give it some POP (No pun intended, or hey why not)
I like the look personally
Got the call today from Paul at Virtual Pin Cabinets and my full trimmed Addams Family cabinet will ship next week
Super Stoked !!
70AFC12A-03D5-4E02-B7BE-F0BDBA3533D1 (resized).jpegQuoted from mmr61184:That’s awesome, that’s what I am waiting on too I can’t wait to see how it looks. How long did it take from order to shipping. I think I am still about 3 months out.
Ordered 10/7
Totally fine waiting until snow was behind us anyways
Just mailed out my Addams Decals from Planetary and he got them last Friday
Said should ship out in a few days after install but if it’s completed on a Friday he waits until Monday to ship as it would sit on the dock all weekend and damage is possible
I really hope it’s nice and will of course take pictures
Quoted from mmr61184:Anybody have any opinions on the jet bumper skirts. I am pretty sure I am definitely ruling out the solid green, but can’t decide which looks the best out of the others.
[quoted image]
Transparent looks great but how will the material hold up ?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Looks good to me.
Thank you
I will be posting my original Addams Family cabinet as my new replacement finally came
If anyone is interested looking for around $500 but of course will take a reasonable offer
Thanks
James
Will be located in Upstate NY by Utica
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Opened up my brand new cabinet and man it’s beautiful but when I pulled off the cardboard protectors for the head they left the face of the white paper from the protector
Any ideas on removal with out damaging the new paint
See photo
Thanks in advance
[quoted image]
Paul messaged back
Yes damp towel and wipe gently
Left slight marks where the head was pressed up to the rails but you have to catch it just right in the light and the game isn’t going anywhere so I’m happy with it
Thank you all
Yes Paul at Virtua
10000% happy with it
Took head off to start moving boards and start the ground stapling
Pure Work of Art
IMG_3615 (resized).jpegIMG_3618 (resized).jpegQuoted from jrcmlc:How long was the wait on the cab?
I ordered the cabinet in October of 2022
Came in April of this year
Finally after other projects and working on other peoples stuff I had time to unwrap mine
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:You've got the wrong pivot nuts. They should be 1/2".
These were the same ones I pulled from the original as reference
Thank you for the feedback I’ll order the correct size
Need a couple super last minute items to finish the project
Tonight was wire transfer
IMG_3887 (resized).jpegIMG_3888 (resized).jpegQuestion
My new coin door doesn’t have the interlock mount built in like the original
I can easily relocate the switch to new mount but unsure what style I need
Many at Marco’s are OOS
Does anyone know the part number as this is not in the manual
Any help would be great
Quoted from jrcmlc:That's very pretty.
Thank you
Final Items
Wire up new cabinet flipper switches
PinShaker Motor + Wiring
New Speakers on the Panel
Back on Legs
Field in and final wire install
Test … and …. Hope for the best
Addams Family Team
Quick Question
I am bringing the Cabinet Wire harness up through the neck today to plug into the boards
Which side does it Zip Tie to Left or Right Mount ?
I took a picture but both Playfield and Cabinet Harness are wrapped in the same black corrugated plastic wrap
Thank you all
I hope the powered up tonight
Quoted from Mank:Looking at the picture, the connectors have to be keyed differently as the right header is missing a pin.
You are correct
I’m stupid LOL
Carry on folks
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Curious to know what the shaker triggers are and what you think of the shaker experience on Addams…
As of right now, I only have the power/cloud on the flashers triggering the motor
I haven’t really toyed with anything yet. I have a lower revision board with only eight triggers, eight flashers or eight solenoids.
Attached is a photo of the triggers you can have
IMG_3949 (resized).pngPlayed a round on my Addams today and noticed it playing different
After playing I realized that I had some dead switches after ball search kicked in
See picture attached from my SW Marix Grid I highlighted
Any ideas where to start digging
I assume a wire broke killing my daisy chain
Thanks
IMG_4167 (resized).jpegAnyone have an extra uncle fester / Lester
Mine is about to break and kinda sad I have had him for quite a while now but seems to have a loose connection in the wiring in his neck so it only works when the head is pressed forward
Once i let go the led doesn’t work
Thanks
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Played a round on my Addams today and noticed it playing different
After playing I realized that I had some dead switches after ball search kicked in
See picture attached from my SW Marix Grid I highlighted
Any ideas where to start digging
I assume a wire broke killing my daisy chain
Thanks [quoted image]
Hey Folks
so after finishing some last of my winter projects I’m back at Addams and my row of switch issues
After looking over the machine again
It’s Row 3
Start Button (Sw 13)Works
33,43,53,63,73 = Do Not
Not sure how to test Ticket Opto SW23
Any ideas
Thank you in advance
James
IMG_4870 (resized).jpegQuoted from pinballinreno:This is a link to the "searchable" manual:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Operations_Manual_January_1992_includes_schematics_OCR_searchable.pdf
Do you have the amazing schematic that Cary (@Walamab) did?
Looks like a problem with the white/orange wire or a diode or the diodes in the row are backwards.
No I don’t have that
Game worked perfectly for years
Issue just occurred during a random game
Thanks for the link
Quoted from DumbAss:With any switch (matrix) issue, ALWAYS ask the question: is this central (CPU board) or peripheral (playfield wiring)?
You cannot find a board problem in the playfield. You cannot find a playfield problem on the board.
Do NOT assume one or the other. Be systematic in your approach. Do the differential testing. Every time for every issue. Consult the PinWiki for information on differential testing.
I often see people respond to these questions with suggestions that it's a diode. In my experience, it's almost NEVER a diode unless someone has explicitly (re)wired a switch. As I wrote in another thread, a switch does not spontaneously re-wire itself incorrectly.
EDIT:It is more likely you have a broken wire in the daisy chain, or even more likely, a broken wire at the connector.
Thank you everyone
I’ll pull out the meter
I was hoping it was not a blown chip
Quoted from pinballinreno:I got the Stumblor widescreen display hooked up.
I had him add the lighted speakers also.
I really like it![quoted image]
How does one order that amazing rig ?
I have a follow up to an issue I’m having on my Addams Family
Row 3 is out minus the Start Button (WHT/ORG)
Today I took about 3 hours of checking wires and continuity
Here are my findings:
- From Start button wht org wire to coin door interface board I have continuity J6
- From the out Wht Org to the field Nothing J1
- From any Wht Org Switch (any on Row3) to the J1 Wht Org - Nothing
In the field itself to all the switches on that row 3 with Wht Org wires they are fine and all connected with my meter in continuity
I’m sure the Coin Door Board is working as the game can start a game but everything past Start Button is dead on Row 3
Here is my manual page for the matrix
Up for suggestions
The issue just appeared one day so I’m confused as to what would of caused this issue out of the blue
Thanks in advance
James
IMG_5264 (resized).jpegQuoted from Coyote:There are two different plugs - the cabinet wires all go to the MPU on J205. Playfield switches connect to J206/J207 (Columns) and J208/J209 (Rows).
Ignore the cabinet wiring, it's not affected here. You need to test continuity between the connector on J208/209 to the playfield.
So my focus here is the head connection to the field.
Thank you !
I was following the row left to right
Appreciate your help
Quoted from Coyote:Yup! Some things to note about the switch matrix -
The order of the switches in the matrix (11, 12, 13, 14, or 11, 21, 31, 41, ... etc) is NOT an indication of where and how the wire is routed. For example, in row #3, the White/Org wire may actually go to the Thing Eject first, then the opto board, then the swamp kickout, etc. Usually things are wired following the wire harness - whatever switch that white-orange gets to first following the wire harness, then so on. (My guess in this case? Thing Eject Lane is the first switch.)
Good luck.
Thank you !!
All set somehow way shape or form
The MPU connection wiggled out
Placed it right now back and alive n well
Wished I checked the head first before the cabinet
At any rate
Appreciate your guidance
Have a question for the masses …
I noticed I have quite a few bookcase reject / bounce outs
Took a look inside the entrance to the bookcase and noticed a mini post
I have the double ring plastic posts and then tucked up there is a mini post
Looked into the rubber set and shows no rubber there
Can anyone in bookcase test open the bookcase and confirm if there is a mini post
Here is my game and the rubber chart
Thanks everyone
IMG_5276 (resized).jpegIMG_5277 (resized).jpegQuoted from Bryan_Kelly:Yours is correct.
Thank you !!
Thoughts on what would cause 7/10 failed attempts to bookcase subway
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Sherrill, NY
