Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider snowvictim.
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It seems I'm about to join this club in a month or so... I've got place for one more pin, and I've been incessantly jumping between TAF and TOM. As much of a JPop freak as I am, I decided to go with Lawlor's game simply because it is the best-selling pinball game of all time... And I love the movie! The game really gives off its spirit. So yeah... I'll either be buying a project pin, or a working game in good/very good condition. Anyway, I'm super hyped!
Ok, fellas. I've officially made it my goal to be an actual member of this club by the end of 2018 (I'm on a super tight pin budget at the moment...).
I was just wondering - would anyone be able to supply me with even a low-res scan of the playfield (not photos, scan)? I have a digital version of the playfield in high-res that I've made myself, but it's based off photos so I have no guarantee that the layout is perfect (due to the fact that photos always have a perspective bias). Having done my best to try and get everything right, I wish I could get my hands on a scan so that I could corroborate my version with it.
Alternatively, would anyone be kind enough to make a few measurements on their playfield that would potentially allow me to amend my version?
Finally managed to join this club... my Addams Family is on the way! Super excited to see it arrive. It's going to need some major work done to it in order to bring it back to tip-top condition, but that's part of the fun in owning pinball machines. Likely to invest in a new playfield for it as the one currently installed has considerable wear around the mansion. Also some parts are missing, and there may be damage on the boards, but I got it dirt-cheap anyway so no point in expecting it to be dazzling. But it will be once I'm done with it...
Thought I'd share some pictures of an Addams Family I'm doing. Basically picked this up as a long-term project back in February. It's a highly rewarding nightmare (mostly because I don't have a rotisserie), which, unfortunately, is ruining me financially due to all the shipments of parts I have to order from Germany, the Netherlands, and the US, but well... I'm committed. Got the pin for just under $2000, but still feel like I've overspent given its condition (only thing of any value was what'a left of the cabinet and backbox, the wiring harness and mostly brackets from the playfield). Roughly 80% of the project is made up of new parts (including the playfield), only ones I could clean up really nicely from the old game made it into the new one.
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Quoted from Arcade:Thanks for the photos snowvictim.
Not easy to rebuild an entire game from scratch.
The only issue that jumped out at me is your clear pop cap.
If I remember correctly it should have one flat edge so the ramp will fit better.
Aha! Thanks for pointing that out, I'll keep an eye out for it when I'm installing the ramp. Got all the parts, just waiting for the playfield protector to arrive since it won't be possible to install it with the ramp on.
Not an easy rebuild indeed, especially without a rotisserie. The cabinet will be done by Friday so I'll just chuck it in there and work on the playfield with it in the cabinet. Will post pics when more progress made.
Quoted from Neal_W:Remember TAF does not have slide out latch/hinges like TZ and other B/W pins. It just has a simple pivots. That makes it quite hard to install parts at the top of the playfield, so I would try to finish everything at the top before putting it in the cab.
Yeah I was surprised to find that when I got the game! I'm glad they made sliding hinges on newer games. Gonna try and finish the topside first before I put the playfield in, but soldering the harness is definitely going to be done with the PF inside. Wish me luck! 
Quoted from jj44114:Any opinions on which cabinet decals to use in a restore? I saw Planetary Pinball had them in stock and Phoenix arcade on EBay. Can anyone that's used them chime in. Thanks.
Heard Phoenix Arcade have better quality decals than NOS, beautiful silk-screened on quality vinyl.
HELP NEEDED!!!! Fellow owners, I'm in the process of building an Addams Family from scratch. I bought mine in a miserable condition as a restoration project. Overall it wasn't a COMPLETE wreck, but the swamp area sustained a disproportionately large amount of damage. I am missing one of the ball guides that acts as a rest for the upper right flipper (part A-15250). I cannot source this anywhere locally, but I know a guy who could make a custom part if I got a drawing of it.
I'm counting on one of you fellas. If anyone would be kind enough to get me a measurement (metric preferred!) of that ball guide along with the mounts I would be forever indebted. I know I could just eyeball it, but I rather it be exact. Many thanks in advance!
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:I have mine stripped down currently. I’ll dig it out tonight and measure it for you mate
You mean this one?[quoted image]
Precisely this one. Cheers!
Some updates, making good and steady progress. Was meant to pick up decals on Saturday, get the cabinet done over the weekend and fit the playfield inside, but the bloke from whom I was meant to buy them says he will only do shipping, and is giving me a ridiculous shipping time for a domestic 200 mile journey. Might try a different source for the cabinet decals.
P.S. Don't know if this is a wider problem or just me, but from my side - if you're thinking of buying replacement parts make sure they're NOS or used. If they have "improved version" don't bother. I've wasted $150 on new brackets for the swamp area and they didn't fit. Renovated the parts from the old game and they fit snug as a bug.
P.P.S. (no, not Rick) Wish we could change the title of the topic so that it has "Welcome our next guest"
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:They don't get much better than these.
ebay.com link » Addams Family Screen Printed Cabinet Art Set Perfect
Look beautiful, but I'd have to pay customs plus VAT and shipping on top of the price :/ the ones from Ministry of Pinball are not bad, bought a few of them in the past and wasn't disappointed. If I had a magic lamp one of my wishes would probably be a set from Phoenix Arcade, heard they were better than the originals.
Quoted from lordloss:Which part in particular wasn't a good fit? I assume you're referring to all the mantis amusements parts.
The worst one was the swamp scoop, that was completely off. Talk about "improved"... welded the old one and gave it a good polishing.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I've use the 3 scoops and the hole protector so many times I've lost count. Never an issue whatsoever. I've not used the other TAF parts. If I had an issue with them, I'd contact Kerry and tell him what the issue is, otherwise, they'll never get corrected. Kerry would also not hesitate to refund your money is you wanted to send something back.
Can't confirm mine were Mantis, but what I can say was the fit on the swamp scoop was rubbish.
Quoted from fatality83:I have a dumb question. I got to play two separate Addams families at the White rose show today. I managed to spell greed, open the valult and lock a ball at the thing lock on both of them. Thing comes out as usual and picks up the ball and takes it under the PF. Now here is where my issue is. On my home game when I do this, the ball stays locked in the swamp and I have to plunge a new ball in which I can easy plunge it into the swamp to get the 2nd lock. On both of these separate Addams I played at the show, instead of keeping the ball locked in the swamp it showed a message "watch for swamp kick out" or something along those lines and it ejected the ball from the swamp instead of letting me plunge a new ball. Now I have the gold roms in mine, not sure what these had. Is this a difference in roms or is there a setting that changes what happens when you lock the first ball with thing?
I'm not certain, but some games have a setting that disables multiball. Haven't fired up my TAF as I'm just finishing the restoration so I don't know, but it may have been just a disabled multiball.
That's what two of the ones I played did (handy shortcut with that light plunge). The one that spits it out instead of locking is messing around, my guess is that the multiball feature is disabled. I think they put that in as people would just frantically start to mash the buttons on multiball mode rather than catching the balls. That led to all kinds of servicing issues (balls hitting balls and flying to places they shouldn't, coils going out quicker, etc).
Wouldn't expect dirt under the Mylar unless it's been torn off and a new sheet had been applied. It does happen around the edges, but shouldn't be anywhere far from them. That and the presumed overlay decal just means someone had been tinkering with the playfield.
Quoted from fatality83:Looking for anyone that has lit their swamps, vaults and chairs adding extra GI lighting.... I want to do this to mine and I see there is a mod you can buy that is basically plug and play, however I don't feel like spending $25 for a bulb, socket and two alligator clips. I would like to make my own. Unfortunately I cannot find any pictures of the actual mods that people sell so I can't see exactly how they made theirs.
I am assuming I would need a 44 bulb socket similar to the ones used for the GI in the game. I would need wire of course, and I am assuming a 4004 diode? Hook everything together and solder one wire to a nearby GI lug and solder the other wire to the other? Anyone that has done this mod, care to share any pictures?
I've lit up tons of stuff on my other games, and not even using sockets. LEDs, a resistor, some heat-shrink tubing, wire, insulating tape, and alligator clips (I prefered to keep it plug-and-play in case I wanted to remove it). I didn't get sockets because normal LEDs are much more flexible than pinball LEDs, except if you get bendies. They also fit in places normal pinball lights (incandescents and LEDs) don't fit. Additionally, it saves me having to make extra holes in the play field.
Quoted from fatality83:Thanks guys. One more question. Has anyone lit there thing hand inside the box? I think it would look really neat to have a light somehow mounted in the thing box that shines on the hand to make it more visible when playing in a darker room.
You could either try a homebrew LED inside the box. It would have to be a normal, non-pinball LED as to not take up space since Thing needs to come out and grab the ball. Alternatively, a spotlight pinball light fitted somewhere near or on the Vault plastic, pointing at Thing. If you connected it to a light that goes on only as Thing comes out then it would be great.
Quoted from Durzel:Thanks very much. That's very comprehensive. I've decided not to proceed with it due to the issues raised.
That's most definitely a safe call. I wonder what hideousness was hiding underneath that decal.
Quoted from J67ab:It’s just pushing it in as it catches, hey I have to replace my opto boards on the bookcase. Is it just unbolting the whole assembly from the bottom to get to them?
Yup 
disconnect the molex, unscrew the hexes that hold it, Philips heads on top of the bookcase and underneath. Sounds more work than it actually is.
Quoted from fatality83:I installed all LED's and lit up the swap, vault, chair and put a red light by thing. I want to light up the topper with GI. Can someone explain to me if there is a location in the backbox where I can tap into the GI? I want to light my cloud topper with GI but keep the flashers for multi ball. I thought I can tie into the back of the lights on the back box for the backglass but it won't work
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Bootleg a wire from the backbox on the 6.3VAC pin and run that up, that's what I did. Forgot which pin and connector it was, have a look in the manual. Pop a crocodile clip on the ground wire and run that to any ground on the driver board, TP for example.
@Edit WHOOPS, I forgot. I had a 12V LED strip, so I didn't run it to the GI voltage, but to the 12V test point (so that it always lights up).
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Now the ball occasionally gets trapped up there lol
You mean by the switch actuator or the diverter?
Quoted from TicTacSeth:The switch actuator. If the ball rolls up there too slow, it doesn’t make it through. Finding it hard to get the balance right between the switch getting triggered consistently and the switch being too tight and catches the ball occasionally.
Play around with the switch actuator then, try bending it in just a bit and seeing if that helps. I'd take the switch out for this, it'll just make things easier.
Quoted from jp1985:Where did you get the legs from?
I am thinking of getting new ones from Hot Rod Arcade.
I got mine from Pinball Center, that's a European supplier, but I know Chris over at Hot Rod Arcade works wonders in terms of plating. I'm ordering a brass lockbar from him as soon as I scrape up the money, just cause it's really hard to come by those on this side of the pond. I'd definitely go for HRA ones if I were you.
Quoted from jdoz2:That’s gotta be a good feeling putting it on legs. I’m still filling/sanding mine and it seems like it will never end.
Oh yes it was... I know the struggle, just took out all the boards from the backbox and I was standing there looking at the wood thinking "not this again...". Stay strong!
My project TAF is going well, finally finished the cabinet and backbox. Just waiting for the gold hinges to come in the post. I'm now officially onto the wiring bit, which is driving me insane. The wire harness has already been separated, and I'm giving it one more good clean before I actually install everything.
By the way, I picked up these beautiful anodised 6-32 nuts and colour-matched them with the plastics. Need a couple more 8-32s as they really do look fab.
It needs to warm up... SO IT CAN KILL YOU! WOOOOOHOOOOO!!! It'a alive! I did a test wire up to see how the boards are, I'm still going to replace all of them as they look like they've been to war. But at least they work! One column of the DMD is dead, but I plan on getting a ColorDMD anyway so...
Next tasks are rebuilding the speaker panel and wiring up the playfield. I'm on a roll!!!
Quoted from Durzel:I want to fit these BriteCap EVO pop bumper LED rings to my TAF, but have noticed the white pop cap is trimmed very slightly.
Is there a reason for that? I can see it's cut along the ball guide for the ramp but I can't imagine why the ball would be hitting the cap in the first place?
So, safe or not?...
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It certainly doesn't stick out as far as the bumper cap. I'd say give it a few plays, if there are any problems you'll know. Airballs are what worries me in this case. You could try to trim the 3 LEDs off and bootleg some wire between the two neighbouring the cut off ones… I'm not quite sure how that thing is wired, but a little tinkering can get you far sometimes.
Yep, those were my thoughts too. Just go with a normal clear cap for the bumper. Honestly, I don't know why they even made these cut ones. The bumper is hidden from view anyway, it's high enough for the ball to not hit if it gets a normal whack from the upper right flipper, and as for airballs - what difference does it make? Airballs will hit the bumper cap regardless of whether it's trimmed or not… I didn't even know TAF had this special bumper cap and initially ordered a standard clear cap. I don't think it makes much difference to be honest.
Currently busy with soldering everything onto the switch harness and getting the translite illumination panel ready. I've pulled out all the old bulbs, sanded the white side down, and applied the first coat of white. I'm sanding and treating all the metal parts as the paint dries. Hoping to have the backbox finished by today. Won't be shining though, the IDC connector from the translite light 4-strand is gone 
have one coming my way in the post. Might get a start on the apron just so it's ready for when I install the trough switches and wire up the solenoid.
I must say it warms my heart to see her light up like this. This one really was dug out from six feet under...
Quoted from pintechev:Middle looks like the thing hole to the left of the thing box.
Ah, of course, the through only has one of these big switches by itself. Where is my mind?... Could the bottom one be the shooter lane one? I seem to recall they were the odd looking ones.
HELP!!! So I've ran into some trouble... the Thing scoop hole doesn't align properly with the hole on the Thing box under the playfield. I've dropped a ball into Thing's box and it wouldn't go on into the scoop.
Clearly the obvious solution is to make the hole in the scoop a bit wider. Just wanted the go ahead from anyone with more experience with TAFs (this is my first one).
Quoted from dmacy:Are you using a new playfield? I'm in process of CPR with new scoops but haven't gotten to mount this one yet. I did all new scoops on my IPB and there wasn't an issue. Maybe just needs screws adjusted so it is better centered?
New playfield and scoops. The Thing box is aligned well as the backboard mounting plate is snug in the original holes. It's the bloody replacement parts - they're a sodding nightmare!!!!!! I'm going to have to think of something...
Btw, two issues (grateful for any clues).
1) I'm having some problems with switches. I haven't installed all of them (maybe 80% done), but I went into the switch edges test mode and tried activating some of the manually. Some of the already wired ones work, some don't. I'm not getting any short readings, it's just as if they weren't connected... the switch is actuated cause I can hear the plates touching. Diodes are in the right way. Any ideas???
2) One of the flasher sockets seems to be dead? Only two of the LEDs come up, and I have no clue what this could be. All the other ones work fine, so it seems like it's just an issue with this socket, although it doesn't look bad and I've fidgeted with the wire and that yielded no change.
Thanks in advance, and a lovely Thanksgiving to all the pinheads celebrating.
Some photos for you guys
This one came out by complete accident - I unknowingly smudged the camera lens with my finger, but it came out supercool!
Thanks for the pick dmacy that ought to help me out loads! Would also appreciate if you could post one with the red and yellow lamp wires attached to the lamp ribbons. These pop bumper light, man... Nightmare (for me).
Not sure what's up with the switches though. The wire harness was washed and the switches have been replaced with new ones. I don't think the diode's on the wrong way round... I'll have to inspect and cross-reference with the matrix (maybe it's just one strand that's dead?). Unfortunately, I'm enervated by the sniffles so the job's on hold temporarily. I'll let you know about the TAF problems as soon as I'm better.
Quoted from dmacy:Here's a few of the original tear down pictures. I'm letting the lamp harness dry so hope to have that ready later this week with some good pictures without anything else blocking view.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks so much, dmacy !!! This oughta help me out loads!
Quoted from dmacy:Here's the pop bumper wiring installed (few pictures are of it in progress). Hopefully it's helpful to snowvictim and others.
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Legend! Thanks for the pics, I'm on the mends so I'll try to use these photos as soon as I can. I'll post pictures when I've made some progress. Thanks again dmacy
With the invaluable help from dmacy I've finally managed to get the bumper lights working! Made some nice progress this week, but I'm stuck on the trough switches (the matrix is of no help
). Would anyone mind posting some photos of how the trough switches are wired? I'm a bit lost with just the matrix reference (I've got no background in electronics).
Thanks in advance!
Thanks for all the photos! I've managed to get a small amount of progress, but I'm still perplexed as to why some of the switches don't work. I've wired up all the trough switches and the plunger ball switch, but only the left and center trough switches work... I'm in switch edge testing, I actuate some switches and nothing happens.
What could be the reason for these switches failing? All the switches and diodes are new. Could it be an IC issue? None of the target switches work (they're all new), the Thing Flips switch doesn't work (the one on the ramp), the left center lane (inlane and outlane to drain work). It seems arbitrary and I have no clue what's going on.
Note on pic 2: I've rewired the outlane according to @dmacy's pictures and it still doesn't work.
Ugh… I finally made some progress with the wiring. I managed to get two bumper lights working — did I miss a wire? Sorry to say but I am hopeless when it comes to understanding a lamp matrix for pop numbers and how to wire it… I only soldered two yellow wires (single, which I thought was for the bottom two, and a double which I thought was for the top three). Or could it be a fault with the LEDs?
@Edit that last sentence was a rare spark of brilliance… all working now!
@Edit2 I’ve noticed that the lower two dome flashers aren’t coming on in attract mode. The rest work fine.
Quoted from drummermike:Your electric chair needs lights on the sides.
Yes, mate! I've got them in the "to install" box, still need to clean them up.
Quoted from Coyote:Do the flashers flash in attract mode? I didn't think they did. Don't remember that, anyways.
Attract mode is just the way the game is when it's on and no one is playing, right? Lightshow, no sound, just the DMD and the lighting. The three dome flashers work in that mode, but the two lower ones (Thing flipper plastic and swamp cover plastic) don't. Not sure why that is, but I suppose it could be the LED 'legs' again... I readjusted them on the pop bumpers and they work fine now.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Hey guys. I am doing a big TAF resto, and I cant remember where this thing went. I definitely came from the cabinet. Can someone please help.
Thanks[quoted image]
That looks more like a chair scoop/kickout protector for the playfield.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I looked all around in my cabinet and could not find that piece. I have not done a complete restore of my TAF, only some general repairs on the PF. I will keep my eye open and let you know if I find that part.
I’m sticking to my guns. That’s a discarded protector from somewhere on the playfield. You’d be surprised to learn what things I’ve found inside my pinball cabinets on secondhand games.
The only other thing I can think of which that thing resembles is a piece of the coin door from the coin return chute. I’ve done a total rebuild of my TAF and did not come across that part.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I was thinking the same thing about it being from the coin door however nothing on mine resembles that. I think it is too thick for a protector.
You may be right, at least too thick for a Cliffy. I've seen cheap protectors made from quite thick material. In any case, I don't think that's some essential part, but I'd hang onto it just in case.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hi TAF fans. The Pinball Mod Co recently listed a collection of TAF mods which we think work really nicely with the game aesthetics. They are all very easy installs and have quite of bit of hand finished detail work on them. We ship worldwide. Let me know if you have any questions. If you are looking to purchase 3 or more of these mods send me a PM and I'll shoot you a discount code.
https://pinballmods.co/the-addams-family-pinball-mods
Antique Phone Mod
Greed Ramp Switch Book Cover
The Book Greed II Light Cover
Vault Bookcase Cabinet
Thing's Cart Light Cover
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The Thing bookcase mod is, in my opinion, one of the best and fitting mods I have ever seen. I will definitely be making a purchase. Well done!
Quoted from JohnTTwo:Thanks so much for you help and sorry it takes me so long to get back to your questions
I have no voltage to any solenoids while the game is playing.
I happen to have 2 Addams family games and checked the game that is running and it is 74 volts DC to the coils
Thanks again John
I'd test voltages along the way from the socket. Transformer, driver board, and so on. You get the idea.
Quoted from Looprunner:Oddly, it's one of the builds with the gold cabinet and a blue backbox.
So was mine! I was really puzzled by that...
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Warsaw
Oakdale, CA