Well, I am officially joining this club in early June. Bought one through Pinball Universe, and they begin freshening up my game as I have paid the deposit to authorize the work.

With prices knocking on the door of $6000 on Pinside, I didn't fret much with going with Pinball Universe. I talked with Denis for a good half hour, and he was very thorough and answered all of my questions, putting my mind at ease and giving me the confidence to give him my business.

Plus, the game when shipped is fully insured, and the shipping added only $200. All playfield issues will be addressed, plastics replaced if damaged, no magnet burn, topper included, and all rubbers and bulbs changed out to fresh ones.

I'll be sent pictures as the game is cleaned up and overhauled, so once I get some, I'll post here for everyone's observations. I understand this is a 24 year old game so it may not be CQ; however, I am definitely making sure I am happy with the work before I nonchalantly toss money into the wind.

So, yep, looking forward to feeling the power soon !! Of course, ColorDMD will be ordered, and I would appreciate everyone's thoughts on "day one preventative maintenance" like the magnet fuse mentioned above for example. I am going to start at post one and go through this whole thread. Inputs are welcome.

Dude, where are you pulling this stuff from? If you are making those graphics, make a book of them, and I'll gladly buy it.

Here comes my TAF . It'll be here on June 01. Coincidentally, that is a "Wednesday" .

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Already got the gold roms waiting as well as the Greed book mod, ordered the "Thing" sign, and saving up for a ColorDMD. Will add a sub and do the usual speaker upgrade.

3 more days.....and I go pick up my new TAF ...!

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Plan is to drive 8.5 hours EACH....way. Leave the house at 0800 Sunday morning, return around 0230 Monday morning.

Two more days...!

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Time to make this thing sing this weekend.Sound!!!_(resized).jpg

Maybe this weekend I'll actually take some pictures OF the machine ....!

Sure - will do this weekend. What I really need to do is start incorporating the external amplifiers like I do on Stern machines. THAT makes such a world of difference....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addition-of-boss-amplifiers-to-stern-machines

Preach. Saw this on an old TAF. Had two bulbs blocking the ball to leave the metal bin. It took forever for the ball to get back in place. It's destination after Thing let's it go is ultimately the ball lock switches in the Swamp (I am new to this game but pretty sure on this.).

The box is hollow. I don't know exactly how those bulbs made their way down there, but I waited, and waited, and waited for the ball to make its way out of there and finally said "We have to figure this out" and that's when I saw the bulbs in the exit of the metal box. Th box is not hard to remove. There are (I believe) two screws that actually hold the whole thing in place. Once those two screws are removed, you have to be a tiny bit forceful to get it to dislodge from the underside of the playfield, but it will come out. Note, the words "tiny bit"; it takes a rather minimal effort.

Random question here, guys, and maybe I missed it in the thread here. When it comes time to swap out all 5 pop bumper caps - the white one in particular - where do you get one that specific? Do you just order a regular one and modify it, or is there a place that has it "pre-modded" and ready?

Just curious - thanks!

Hey guys need a lil help here. Looks like this is a white wire with purple striping. It is under the PF near the swamp harness (visible in the picture). It is part of the wiring loom that is zip-tied together right behind my hand in the photo. It is NOT part of the molexes that hooks up the swamp switches to the harness of the game.

Appreciate any help you can give me or a reference photo of where the wire attaches to. Thanks!

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I think I figured it out. Does it go to the shooter lane rollover switch marked with the red square in this picture?

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So my guess was right. Good man! Thank you, Lee!

Didn't even think to look at the switch matrix in the manual....! 4 years, and I am still a noob.

All right, I have two questions:

1. I have rebuilt my Swamp VUK - new coil, coil sleeve, and spring. My playfield had some pretty nasty holes for the mounting hardware, and I had to use wood filler to make it to where all my hex scres could be used to mount my under playfield hardware. When my Swamp VUK fires, the ball pretty much always deflects off of the right slingshots - not enough to trigger the slingshot coil, but it will hit it and deflect to the left flipper.

How do I "adjust" the VUK ? Do you loosen the mounting hardware and adjust? Do you "tweak" the bracket? I hear people "adjusting" the VUK, but I don't know exactly what that means.

2. I had to replace my trough arm responsible for launching balls out of the ball trough and into the shooter lane - all new hardware, and it works like a champs now. Unfortunately, after kicking a ball into the shooter lane, the trough arm does not go down far enough, and that hangs the other two balls up from rolling down into place where they should be in case I start locking balls.

What is the best way to adjust this? Add washers between the trough arm mounting hardware and the playfield? Get a shorter spring that will pull the arm further down and if so, what would you recommend (I used the spring outlined in the manual, and this is where I am now) ? Bend the arm so it is lower?

I appreciate any advice. I may make my own thread so don't be surprised if you see this elsewhere. Thanks!

Mine is on the chopping block. Ready to let it go.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-addams-family-the-11

Light all the "THING" letter in the back. To do that, shoot the left ramp with the top right flipper. Every time you hit that ramp, you'll get a letter. Complete THING, and once they are all flashing together, shoot the "mini ramp" right up the middle. You'll get "no no no" everytime. Everyone once in a while the alternate call out is "no time for that now!"

Or uses a chair cliffy but not a swamp cliffy D: ...???

Just wanted to say thank you for these pictures. Just put a LED ColorDMD in my TAF, which had an LCD. Couldn't remember what went where when putting the Thing PCB back on. These pictures helped immensely.

It finally happened a week ago.....

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But I got my new glass in the mail and everything is all better now!!!

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If you need new translite glass cut, give OneDayGlass a try. I have the measurements in a link in my thread where this happened, I put the order in Monday and got the glass in the mail 9 days later. Fit great and looks awesome!!

Nice kick in the mouth, eh?

No ball saver like in Horde. Makes you a better player ; ).

Let us know how it goes. i am doing mine after i am done with AFM

I'll just say it : 98% of people wouldnt even know the differences between a gold, silver or bronze. If you laid all 3 of them in a random order, I'd be floored if anyone outside of a restoration expert could correctly identify all 3 of them. I'd be willing to bet that a silver, to the vast majority of people here, would be passed off as a gold if you didnt tell them.

I wouldn't sweat it. Anything is better than the original PFs from 1992, unless of course professionally restored from Kruzman, HEP, or the like.

And then when it starts resetting even with the Kahr board you can do it right - by properly diagnosing it and fixing the problem.

Had a Kahr board in mine and it still reset. Fixed it the right way and haven't looked back.

I might have a spare. I can look when I get home 1 week from today and let you know next weekend.

Go for $8K. Only thing I see hurting it is flipper button wear.

Per their website:

GI OCD is interchangeable between WPC95 and WPC89 games. The only difference between the two selections available is the default configuration that is loaded on the board when it is shipped. You can still use either kit in either type of game, but you will need to reconfigure the board using the PC software if you do not choose the configuration to match your game.

you swap out the lightning bolt bulb to be safe?

Best kind of repairs!!

Did you just have a conversation with yourself xD ?

I had a similar issue, and my problem was the Thing box was not aligned properly to the rest of the subway hardware to get the ball to the VUK that ultimately sends it up to the Swamp. The ball kept getting hung up there; you could physically see it hanging between the box and the subway. Once I got that properly aligned, I did not have an issue since.

Don't sell the game. Once you get this, all should be good. This is a small issue - a nagging and irritating one - but definitely don't sell it. Walk away for a couple days and clear your head. I can't speak with 100% certainty, but I think you would regret selling it.

I have had SO MANY issues with my TAF. Probably as many as the rest of my B/Ws combined. I even did put it up FS here on Pinside 3 years ago; I was that over the issues. Thankfully, I realized I was making an emotional decision and pulled the ad.

You'll get it!