(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome

By mima

5 years ago

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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Ambro
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#761 3 years ago

Bringing home my grail pin while up in Atlanta for SFGE, and I am psyched to be joining the club.

I spent '92 living in Japan, doing a year of factory training in my companies expatriate program. (at our electron microscope factory)

In those days, arcades were everywhere. However, the only pin on location in my prefecture was a mesmerizing new TAF. (Obviously new, since that was '92.) I would visit that arcade once a week and TAF was always the first and last thing I would play each visit.

It is one my most vivid and enjoyable pinball memories, and now I can visualize mine being brighter, louder, AND FREE TO PLAY ANY TIME!!


#765 3 years ago
Quoted from trab:

Was this the one on that was at SFGE ?

No, this was a modded out TAF that I picked up in Marietta from a guy that was flipping it. Now that I have it home under the bright shop lights, I can see I have some work to do, but that's half the fun and makes it my very own.

Judging by the second transformer installed, a previous owner was planning to add some more mods?

Nothing currently connected to the output, and I will need to fabricate a safety cover and ground it. I wonder what the intention was... Maybe planned to add 100 yards of 24volt LED strip???

Gonna need a new and better speaker too. Notice anything wrong with that one?


2 weeks later
#776 3 years ago

The gold ROM display 'Special Edition' under the Addams Family logo on the DMD, so it appears those are standard ROMs.

I'm slowly getting my new TAF cleaned up and tuned up. The two back leg plates on my game both had the lower bolts stripped. What a pain it is to get to the back leg plates with the cheapo playfield hinges on TAF, that don't slide forward like every other DMD pin I own.

I figured out a trick to get to them without removing the pf. I noticed if I propped the pf up fairly high, like 45 degrees, I could get my arm down in behind. I didn't have a long board handy to prop it up, but I did have some twine which I secured to the pf and over the backbox to the hinge in the back to hold it up. Maybe that tip will help someone in the future.

#811 3 years ago

Yup, the box is only held in by the two upper screws. Had to give mine a good bang to free the tab from the slot and get it loose.

3 weeks later
#990 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

someone else mentioned the back legs having stripped plates - HOW in the hell do you change these out?

You will notice, that with the playfield at about 45 degrees you can get your arm down behind the playfield. I tied a rope around the back of the backbox and over the top, to hold the playfield up at an optimum angle. That was the easiest way I had to prop it up safely.

Reaching behind and reaching under the playfield, it can be done if your patient. The larger Williams type plates work fine.

#1005 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

How would I be able to tell when it needs replacing? Thanks

When they eventually fail, the pin will reset to 'no free play', and give a probably give an error.

1 month later
#1083 3 years ago


#1086 3 years ago

Top one. It frames it better.

9 months later
#1454 2 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

ball will come off of the wire form every single time

Took a while to get my JP to quit doing that. I doubled up the spring on the diverter, adjusted it further closed where a slow roller would just make it past the diverter, and turned down the flipper strength. I retrospect, I could have bent the diverter and made it more curved as well.

1 month later
#1503 2 years ago
Quoted from Bronty:

I have been using these from Marco's

Those work fine in my TZ and LOTR, which have magnets. (still shopping out my TAF project so I can't speak for that)

You would know if they are magnetized by setting them next to each other. Do they stick together at all?

#1506 2 years ago
Quoted from Bronty:

I have heard TZ can be a tough one for maintenance. What has your experience been?

It has a lot of pieces, but it's not too hard to work on. The clock is the weak link, but there is a solid replacement board available. Mine has been reliable since I shopped it a year and a half ago.

You should be able to hit a trapped ball up the ramp from the right flipper. Seems like it needs looking at.

#1518 2 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Can you all advise me on the must have mods please.

I'm removing some wack mods from my project that a previous owner installed.

TAF looks cool with minimal toys. IMHO

Fester, rocks decals for bookcase base, and book for bookcase shot are nice.

1 month later
#1600 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Does anyone have an extra (or not), TAF flyer and would be willing to part way with? I want one for myself!

BAM will sell you one for $10:


EDIT -- oops that says out of stock.

#1604 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Or uses a chair cliffy but not a swamp cliffy D: ...???

The missing apron card would drive me nuts.

#1608 2 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

I have since then purchased a LED board for the THING lights, but I don't know where to connect it

It goes to J134 on the power driver board.

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1 month later
#1697 1 year ago
Quoted from jzdziarski:

U.06 ("Install 5 Ball").

The operations manual page 1-23 says that just changes settings to be appropriate with a 5 balls/game. I assume that changes some of the other default settings that make it harder to get to multiball, etc. (a quick way to change a bunch of difficulty settings at once)

#1704 1 year ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Are the column headings in the manual are reversed?

Yup, definitely reversed. You are spotted 3 thing letters in a 3 ball game. You may have noticed how "T H I" are always lit under the DMD at the start of a game?

#1705 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Do you guys think a remake is imminent?

Rumor is CC is next. It would take a lot of work and cash to get the license for TAF. They have so far only done remakes without license hurdles.

3 weeks later
#1761 1 year ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

However the lid of the box seems to stick on hand, and not allow the box to close.

Does the box open and close freely if you take the glass off and open it by hand?

1 week later
#1769 1 year ago
Quoted from jzdziarski:

Have not been able to find these flipper rubbers anywhere; I know the manual calls for "Red", but the original flipper rubbers matched the Addams Family logo at the bottom and were more of a reddish-purple or maroon. Do they just not make this color anymore?

I have been thinking about this and searching since reading your post. Many vendors have pink/purple rings, but not the color shown in your photo.

I noticed at the FPF show that TNA has the exact same raspberry colored rings as shown in your photo. I was told Pinball Life sells silicon flipper rubber in that color. Follow up with them and let us know. They supply the parts for TNA.

TNA_playfield (resized).jpg

1 month later
#1860 1 year ago
Quoted from Parzival:

right ramp exit

My switch looks old enough to vote. Opps. This is right ramp top. Where is RR exit??

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#1863 1 year ago

Found it!

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#1881 1 year ago
Quoted from Hypercoaster:

Do any of you know the history of the production of this game? I recently took possession of my father's game, he bought it in 92 or 93, not exactly sure when. There was always this notion from him that it was a "prototype" addams family.

That looks to be in great shape. Apparently the G-R-E-E-D book in front of the bookcase was yellow on the prototypes as well according to this pinsider that is searching for a prototype -


1 month later
2 weeks later
#1970 1 year ago

Pretty sure they need to be flush or the ball could stick there, or they my interfere with the skirt, etc. The holes should have a counterbore for the head to go down in.

#1975 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

Should I try to remove this screw, if so, do i just tap it out from the bottom? HELP!

That screw appears to next to a post, so I guess it is on the back side of the pop and the ball never goes there? In that case, it may be OK to ignore that one and make sure to get the other ones right.

#1985 1 year ago

Is it saying 'Open Coin Door' when you turn it on?

I know some pins normally say that to let you know the batteries are removed/dead and everything is reset.

#1990 1 year ago

Here is an objective based game you can play on TAF instead of just going for points, and to sharpen your skills for hitting shots while avoiding other shots. It was explained on The Pinball Players Podcast episode 26 about 10min in, and is also posted on their FB.

Here's how to play Jake Erskine and Theresa Nessel's The Addams Family Obstacle Course
Play with 2 to 4 players and play the number of games equal to or a multiple of number of players. Rotate who goes first.
The object is to complete these goals in order. Any shots made out of order do not count.
1. Skill shot. If you hit any other switch that validates the playfield besides the skill shot, your ball is over. You must complete the skill shot to advance. Doing so scores 1 point.
2. Spell GRAVE. Score 1 point for spelling grave and 1 bonus point for doing it in order.
3. Spell GREED - Score 1 point.
4. Thing Flips - Thing doesn't have to make the shot, it just must be flipped. Score 1 point.
5. Train Wreck - Score 1 Point
6. 3-Way combo - Score 1 point. May be repeated for an additional point as victory laps
If GREED multiball is started, all progress is lost and player must start back at 1 point and begin the process again starting with spelling GRAVE.
Bonus: Tour the Mansion - Score 10 points

#1995 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

The left slingshot is only firing in ball search and in tests.

In the test menu is a switch test that you can use to confirm if the sling switch and optos are working. Start there and confirm what is working and what does not appear normal.

3 weeks later
#2093 1 year ago

From the Boston Pinball Ebay tracker:

image002 (resized).png

There have been claims that they sometimes include 'buy it now' prices that did not sell, but they claim they track successful sales. I'm not sure. One thing for sure is that Ebay pins can be expensive.

4 weeks later
#2158 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Ball won’t kick out of the thing hole when solenoid fires, what will fix this?

In the solenoid test, can you see the plunger move in test mode?

If you lift up the playfield, does the plunger move freely?

Everything mounted securely?

1 month later
#2215 1 year ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Those are not sawed off drivers.

Couldn't do my job without this one:


1 week later
#2229 1 year ago

I wouldn't say that decals have no effect. Like a piece of Mylar, the edge of the decal can affect the direction of a slow rolling ball.

3 weeks later
#2233 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

what happens if you complete the tour the mansion

Nope, you get some rewards and it starts over.

#2245 1 year ago
Quoted from accidental:

You get a big points award, everything that isn't a mode on the mansion is lit, and then you're required to make it through every mode on that same ball. I've never survived long enough to tour the whole mansion after starting it so I don't know if there is another award for doing so. Once you drain you're back to a blank mansion to work your way through again.

I stand corrected. Now I have to go work on completing that!!

1 week later
#2253 1 year ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the pivot points for lifting the playfield? Mine scrapes on the left side of the cabinet when you pivot it up or down, and I would like to fix that before i put side art on.

Are the pivot posts tight or perhaps drooping?

#2266 1 year ago

…. and yes it is necessary. The 1st contact is for the lower right flipper and 2nd contact is for the upper right flipper.

Maybe make a guard that loops around it from a thin plastic transparency sheet that may keep the plunger spring from catching it.

1 week later
#2271 1 year ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

Is there supposed to be a post


#2275 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

having problems with my TAF not recognizing the skill shot all the time

just guesses -

Are the switches in the shooter lane and trough all working correctly. (if it thinks the ball is there, maybe it does not look at the skill shot)

When weird things occur, I start re-seating ribbon cables in the back box, so try that.

#2279 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

i unplugged it and reseated it, how would i check if it is bad?

Try using one from one of your other BW pins as a test.

1 week later
#2289 1 year ago

In the case of TAF, I think the inserts look fine using the original incandescent bulbs. (and you don't have to worry about inserts ghosting from LEDs or upgrading to an LED OCD board) If your inserts look dark, you might need to clean the dust off the back of the inserts or adjust the bulb position.

The TAF playfield is dark so I swapped all the GI bulbs for Cool White Frosted LEDs, and the same for the backbox. Cool white LEDs behind the translite corrects the yellow hue and makes it look cleaner and not dingy yellow IMHO.

#2295 1 year ago
Quoted from Parzival:

Also, anyone know where I can get this piece? Just the metal cover, mine is rusty

That is a ramp flap which is made of spring steel and riveted to the end of the ramp, so it is kind of a pain to swap. You can search the forum for threads on replacing ramp flaps. They frequently have a bit a of rust, even on new pins. I would try polishing it first to see if that does the job.

3 weeks later
#2391 1 year ago

My TAF has the flower pot - thick side up and white spacer on top of it like the photo above posted by arcade.

4 weeks later
#2425 1 year ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

The cabinet will be done by Friday so I'll just chuck it in there and work on the playfield with it in the cabinet.

Remember TAF does not have slide out latch/hinges like TZ and other B/W pins. It just has a simple pivots. That makes it quite hard to install parts at the top of the playfield, so I would try to finish everything at the top before putting it in the cab.

#2429 1 year ago

I have not used either but I always see folks commenting that the stencils and decals sold on ebay are subpar.

#2435 1 year ago
Quoted from fatality83:

back behind the train wreck area there is a white colored dome like a flasher is underneath. It looks like you have to remove the ramps to get the plastic that the white dome piece is rivited onto. Do I have to remove all the ramps in order to change this flasher bulb?

Welcome to the club. Yes, that's a flasher above the train. Maybe you can pull the socket out from the underside if that is blown, not sure.

Quoted from fatality83:

My goals are to put some led's in

On TAF, I like cool white frosted LED in the backbox so it does not have a yellow hue, and on the playfield GI to brighten everything up. Some add a GI-OCD board so the GI LED can dim during the lightshow a the start of multiball, but I think the LED flicker around the flippers looks cool for that moment. I keep the playfield inserts incandescent and they look great to me.

2 weeks later
#2503 12 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

How easy is it to remove the ramp?

Not bad. Just a few screws as I recall and slide it away from the diverter so you can reach under while keeping the switch wiring connected.

#2512 11 months ago

Test the diverter in the coil test menu. Sounds like yours is not working. See if the wires are secure to the coil and see if the diverter moves freely.

#2522 11 months ago
Quoted from Wolveryan:

I have a chance to pick up a TAF for $4,500. It’s in moderate shape, certainly not mint and would need some work.

I always ask myself, if/when I go to sell it in a year, would I ask that same price when selling. Generally 4500 is not bad for a TAF with some wear issues and needing cleaning and minor repairs. How bad is that one?

#2524 11 months ago
Quoted from Wolveryan:

Little concerned the insides might have been exposed to high humidity.

I'm not aware that humidity affects the insides much. Mainly it causes planking on the cabinet art and playfield art first. The mechs and bulb sockets can get some surface rust. If those items are OK, the price sounds good.

2 weeks later
#2547 11 months ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Quick question fellow owners! Just started having issues with powering TAF up. Upon start up nothing comes on. After I flick the power switch on and off quickly a few times it powers up just fine. Has anyone had this happen?

Just a guess - It sounds like the 5v is not coming on for the CPU to boot.

Easy first test: If you look at the power driver board in back box, do you see All, Some or None of the LEDs on the board coming on when it does not start?

#2564 11 months ago

I think they use the trimmed cap there because it would look odd and unprofessional for Bally to have a cap intrude in to the ramp area.

In your case, I would install a standard (non trimmed) cap over the LED ring to protect the LEDs. You can always replace the inexpensive cap if/when it get chipped.

1 month later
#2619 9 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Looking for a the bracket that holds the plastic chair if you have one let me know. Marco says they are out of stock in them.


#2625 9 months ago

Your TAF looks OK.

TZ is weird - it has 3 holes in the front and rear and causes some confusion. You use the lower 2 holes on the back legs and upper 2 holes on front legs on TZ to get the playfield close to the correct angle. (maybe they were planning to mount the playfield differently in that cab or were thinking of another use for it.)

#2627 9 months ago

Had to open the coin door and check. Your right.

I guess the point of the extra holes is to lower the whole pin.

#2630 9 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

So the rear holes on my TAF don't look wrong?

If you want to measure it, the center of the lower hole is about 52mm from the bottom of the cab on mine.

1 month later
#2723 8 months ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

I just installed Judge Dread's beautiful rose shooter rod.... now the ball won't make it all the way up the ramp. Anyone else have that problem? I am guessing I need to order a stiffer spring to compensate for the heavier shooter rod, just looking for advise on what stiffness to order.

The tip of the shooter rod is probably misaligned left/right/up/down. Check that and adjust the mounting position of the shooter rod assembly.

1 week later
#2732 8 months ago
Quoted from Patentlaw:

Any ideas? Anybody had an issue on this?

Your on the right track. Debris in thing box or subway, coil issue due to loose wire or something, or switch issue due to a loose wire or something.

You mentioned it fails after things warm up, which is typically an indication of a sticky coil sleeve. Replace the coil sleeve on the solenoid you saw sticking, and confirm it feels free.

You can also test it by taking the glass off and giving balls to thing over and over to see and hear were they are hanging with the volume down.

1 week later
#2770 7 months ago
Quoted from Barr993:

Should I be looking at Thing power or overall power first?

Overall power is easy enough to check. You should have 120vac at the wall. Try with them all on and all off and see what you measure.

#2779 7 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Ok, I have a game play / rules question. Any time I manage to get THING lit, and then get the ball to thing, he picks it up, I get my 5M points, and then Gomez says "no no no" and thing puts the ball back. Is the "no no no" just a quote from the movie? And should it always put the ball back?

If you have multiball ready by spelling "GREED" or staring quick MB, the green lamp over the Thing ramp lights, and Thing will lock the ball.

Another note - If you watch the letters under the DMD that spell THING, you will notice that when Thing picks up the ball, they will cycle if Thing is not keeping it and will stay solid when Thing is going to keep it.

#2783 7 months ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

if you hit the swamp or chair immediately after spotting the mansion via Bear Kicks, you will get two mansion awards back to back

Makes sense, the ramp lights the mode start and swamp/chair start a mode, so you should get 2.

1 week later
#2809 7 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Also, does sometime have a picture of the bookcase instructions sticker at the big nylon looking nut under the playfield?

The big nut simply adjusts the height of the bookcase. Use thin shims where the 3 bookcase feet attach under the playfield to level it, then fine tune the height with the nut.

Generally you want things like the book case or magnet cores to be slightly above the edge of the playfield when leveling them. That protects the edge of the playfield wood from wear.

#2828 7 months ago
Quoted from pghpinfan:

I just dont know if it’s worth if for me. My cabinet is average and not really looking to mess with that so am I just polishing a turd by throwing a new playfield in? If I resell any idea on what I could reasonably expect to get back on a new playfield installed ?

Good question. Project TAF are sought after and have good value as is.

#2870 7 months ago
Quoted from PinZig:

maybe there's a way to disable the random bonus?

Only way I'm aware is installing the standard ROMs.

#2880 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sounds like the front playfield hangers are bent or sagging.

Yup, my plunger is also a bit too high at the lowest setting. Last time I checked, I didn't see any new hangars available for TAF.

1 week later
#2921 6 months ago
Quoted from Adib:

Question.. when thing picks up the ball for quick multiball or thing multiball the machine somehow forgets where the ball is. It works fine for the greed multiball .. has anyone else had this issue. Is it a software problem??

There is ball kicker in the box under thing that puts the ball in to the subway. Maybe an issue with the switch that detects the ball there.

Once the ball reaches the end of the subway, it is held there until it is feed to the swamp scoop by another kicker, so check the switch for that kicker too.

1 month later
#2997 4 months ago
Quoted from shriver187:

hey guys, can you help me out. what would a HUO be worth with 651 plays?

The typical wear spots on TAF are chipping around the lower mansion inserts and wear from the ball landing in the upper right orbit on a full plunge, so start there. Paint wear around the flipper buttons occurs with many plays, so look there for touchups.

I guess some ways to identify a replaced playfield, would be to look at the end of the playfield where the 'Churchill cabinets' stamp and manufacture date and number are shown, etc. Also a pin with a new PF would still have tons of black dust in the cabinet, unless that was restored too.

Giving it some test plays will also give you an idea about condition. A fully working TAF with nice cabinet, unhacked boards, and nice PF is one of the most valuable pins around. (excluding titles that were limited production)

2 weeks later
#3058 4 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I know there are reinforced targets but I can only find oblong ones and the swamp targets are round.

Buy a reinforced oblong target and swap the front blade with your blade that has the round target. Target stacks are just held together with 2 little bolts like a leaf switch.

#3074 4 months ago

Saw an accidental dirty pool on a friends TAF. An airball came off the upper right flipper and flew behind the right side of the closed bookcase and in to the vault scoop. This was during the finals round of a charity tournament and we could not believe the timing of this very rare occurrence as we battled for the tournament win.

2 weeks later
#3078 3 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

So I'm is this misfit club this week...picked up a TAFG. It was a gamble as the owner never cleaned it in the 15 years he owned it or even knew he had to change the batteries (completely corroded). Fortunately no damage at all to the MPU board or any of the boards for that matter. All the gold needs re-plating, the playfield was so dirty- black everywhere, pop bumper bracket broken, all the wrong flipper coils. but after some Novis, the playfied is actually very nice and I'm contemplating having it clear coated (the slightest "dent" just after thing...recommendations please. So a couple of questions- I ordered the parts to install the magnet fuses...what size fuse though? what is the Thing mod. I did remove my thing from my box (hey now) other than being dirty, it has a scrape down along the middle finger from the nail rearward. I'm guessing its hitting the box cover? Fix for this?...I didn't play the game before I started breaking it down, but it did start up...to factory resets restored...didn't want to do anything with those batteries in there...Advise welcome

Welcome. Hopefully that playfield will clean up nice. I would not bother clear coating it, which is huge big undertaking to remove everything. Just clean and wax and it should hold up fine with home use.

The scrape along the top of the thing is normal, since that is where he pushes the box open. Clean him up and add some touch up paint as necessary, and clean inside the lid of the box.

#3091 3 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Ordered a new opto board for thing and book shelf as well as some wire harnesses for both thing and the book case. Game is frustrating me and sorry at times I bought it. Game played great the first couple of months. Now thing sometimes doesn't pick up ball. Then I test it, optos work, game plays fine. Then stops again and in thing test, opts don't work. 1 opto went out in the bookshelf right after I bought it. Figured I was OK with that, but now thing is acting up. Plus, at time you start a thing multi ball, book shelf opens, ball is kicked out either at swamp or shooter lane, then book shelf closes, no multi ball. CPU issue? Game rom I think is L4. Maybe need new board with updated chips? Coming really close to selling at a loss even after replacing so much stuff.

When random weird stuff happens like that, reseat the ribbon cables between the driver board and CPU board.

#3109 3 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

It screws into the lower plastic. I see part of the lower hole. Try to line them up. I added the post.

Yup, mine is the same without the post.

1 week later
#3124 3 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

Has anyone encountered the problem that Thing drops the ball while lifting? Mine does this occasionally, looks like the magnet is too weak. Any ideas?

I had that issue and needed to reseat the ribbon cables in the back box.

#3126 89 days ago
Quoted from Staf:

what would I do, I have 2 taf's, one with original decals (with still nice decals, just a piece of the backbox in the back right corner) and one with new decals, which one would I keep?

I don't think there is any change in value for original silk screen art versus a restored cab with decals, so I would keep the nicer cab with the decals. Others may have different experience.

1 week later
#3161 76 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Interested to see how this holds up...I would think it would cut through it in time...

The door is not that heavy. It normally just makes a dirty spot on the top of the hand where it rubs. The sticky cloth should work perfect.

2 weeks later
#3182 61 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Final question, the skillshot, when it kicks the ball out it's sometimes getting stuck behind thing. I plan on replacing all the coil sleeves but is there something else potentially causing this?

Is the playfield level? Is the ball kicker aligned and hitting the ball in the center?

Quoted from CLEllison:

Second question, it's got a shooter rod spring that you can hit the skillshot EVERY single time. I certainly dont remember that being normal. Confirm please.

Mine had a very strong plunger spring when I got it and my guests would pull the plunger back with both hands and send the ball rocketing around the orbit. I switched to a lighter spring, so a medium plunge would make the skill shot.

Quoted from CLEllison:

I have a few questions as I've only ever played this pin in loud environments so I've never truly heard the sound. It's running the L1 rom which I plan on replacing but is the audio normally kind of quiet/tinny compared to the sound effects and voice call outs?

The music that plays while the ball is in the shooter lane is a bit lower than the callouts and effects for example. You can go on youtube and see some TAF gameplay to see what's typical.

#3183 61 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I figured it was the power / driver board so I replaced it with a new Rotten Dog. The problem went away instantly. Anybody have an idea of what failed on the OEM board? By the way, the switch test now looks like this with both flippers engaged.

Maybe a weak power supply. Maybe just a connection issue.

#3193 60 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

More puzzle pieces. Can someone tell me what these connectors are for and where is the ground wire supposed to be mounted?

The green ground wires goes to the leg bolt plate, and the ground braid should attach there also. You can see the start button and door interlock both look like green/red and white/red if you look close.

IMG_7201 (resized).jpg

#3196 59 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

As far as the ground braid, yes it's not connected to the leg bracket. I'm not sure why they would do that.

Leg bracket bolt holes get stripped over the years and somebody was lazy when replacing the plate.

1 week later
1 month later
#3347 12 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

On my machine J133 is open and J134 has a connector with one wire in it which every picture I've looked at on the internet shows this connector on J133 and not J134?

FYI - According to the schematics J133, J134, J135 are identical, so no difference which you use, which explains why those are keyed the same. I have found several adjacent connectors on WPC power driver and CPU boards are like that. (room to grow or alternatives if the pins are bad)

Shown on the 6th page...

Same applies to J137/J138 - identical. (same page)

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