South Elgin, IL
I need to replace all the ramp flaps on my TAFG. I know someone sells them in stainless steel. Any feedback on those? I'd actually prefer the original blue spring steel.
(Topic ID: 78709)
Linked Games
Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994-
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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5 months later
Can someone tell me (or better yet, show me) if and how the swamp plastic attaches to the red plastic next to the swamp kickout? I've been searching for a good picture but the habitrail or flasher is blocking the view in most pictures.
Quoted from accidental:Here's a photo of what I think you're referring to.
Yes, exactly, thanks. I can see the screw in some other photos online, but...what does it screw into? The plastic beneath has a matching hole too large to screw into. Is this a machine screw that goes into a nylon nut?
It *looks* like the plastics were designed to be joined by two short plastic standoffs, similar to the ones that attach the top of the swamp plastic.
Quoted from REMPins:The two plastics are attached with a machine screw and tension nut, mine, like mjension's, has the left hole empty (without screw)
Thank you for your response and confirmation!
4 weeks later
Finally finished my restoration, so I'm in the club now!
This particular game was fairly rough and hadn't been stored well. Many of the under playfield parts had been oxidized/corroded, so spent more time with the tumbler, ultrasonic cleaner, and buffer than usual. I couldn't get the thing box to cleanup like I wanted, so I ended up spraying the outside with a grey primer.
I had the playfield sent out to Brian at HSA Pinball. You can see the before and after pictures of it here:
http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa110915tafg.html
Mike Chestnut replated the lockdown bar and wire ramps, as well as provided me with a set of brass cabinet hardware.
I got some replacement wood rails from TaylorVA. Unfortunately, TAFG placement of holes was slightly different in some areas, so I had to make some adjustments, but in the end nothing I couldn't handle and they worked out fine.
Mods: Uncle Lester, swamp light, swamp accelerator (3d printed), bookcase decals, and fuse kit.
2 months later
Quoted from dmacy:Does anyone have a scan, or can even make one of these stickers for me? I'll be happy to pay and haven't had luck finding them anywhere. Its the "Service Thing" decal.
Hi,
I made one for mine. I can send you the file. I just noticed yours is installed much differently than mine, which confirms that they basically slapped it on however they felt.
I can also mail a pre-made one for you if need. Send me your address and I'll get it out this weekend.
Quoted from dmacy:Huge thank you! Received it today and just installed. Great bunch of people here!!!!
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg
I was comparing pictures of your original to this one and noticed there is a slight difference. That's because the one I sent you is a copy from a TAFG. It looks like they redid this particular sticker, because it differs slightly from the original TAF.
Sorry I didn't notice before.
1 year later
1 week later
I know, right? Who puts a bulb condom on one side of the chair and uses a colored LED for the other side??
1 year later
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Also, does sometime have a picture of the bookcase instructions sticker at the big nylon looking nut under the playfield? Mine is worn half off and I don’t know what to do to dismantle it if need be. Is it a clutch device?! The Manual has an exploded parts view, but no instructions on how to work in it. I bought a new motor and gearbox in case that was an issue. So may install that now if I have to remove the book shelf to replace the opto or broken wires if that is case.
I made this up when I did my restore (remove the yellow border):
bookcase_inst (resized).png
1 month later
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:After cleaning the newly bought TAF I started playing on it and realized immediately that the kick-out hole outside the Thing box doesn't eject the ball reliably. The coil get the ball almost out of the hole, but then it falls back in again. Sometimes it get the ball out but most often it will fail to eject ~10 times and then the thing have to come and take the ball out instead.
I have cleaned the whole eject assembly and changed sleeve, but didn't help. I noticed the plastic end of the plunger have a weird "waist-line" slightly below the tip, might be it have brushed against the switch arm close by and worn the plastic? I also noticed my coil is an AE-28-1500 while the manual on ipdb.org states it should be an AE-30-2000.
I've done some googling and it appear that others having the same problem with this hole on TAF have changed their "weak" original AE-30-2000 coil with the stronger 27-1200 and get it to work fine, but it kind of feels like a hack. Shouldn't the original coil, or my current (stronger?) AE-28-1500 be enough?
Note: the pics were taken while cleaning, so the black dot on the plunger tip for example is not a hole as it looks like but dirt that I've already removed.
Looking at the pictures right now I also realized the wooden edge where the ball is supposed to go up seem to have a deep dent, meaning maybe the ball gets "stuck" against the small edge and fall back in? Perhaps I should try fill it with some quickwood.
TL;DR
Should I buy a new plunger, a new stronger coil or both?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That plunger doesn't look right; looks rounded. It should look like this:
3 months later
Quoted from pinballaddicted:You will need Non ghosting LEDs to stop this. Sounds like the previous owner put in normal LEDs.
We prefer these ones in natural white for all our 90s BWs.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/faceted-non-ghosting?_pos=4&_sid=75ae96c63&_ss=r
Can you post up a photo of the LEDs?
Can't you also install a non-ghosting ROM instead?
Quoted from CLEllison:There was a guy ~7 years ago who was patching ROMS for LED use but good old Wayne-o and his ego sent the guy a cease and desist and that was that. You might be able to post on https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/rec.games.pinball and ask if someone will email it to you.
Anyway, about using LED's - they look like garbage (that patch won't fix that). I don't care if you use ghost busters or not, they are sharp and unnatural. The GIOCD and OCDLED boards are designed to use non ghosting bulbs which are cheaper and they smooth out the lights so they act like incandescent bulbs. And for the record they are IMHO mandatory for some games like Funhouse to keep certain light dimming features.
Reason I asked was because there is a program that applies the updated light subroutine to existing ROMs. I used the software myself to update my ROM for Funhouse so I could use LEDs with it. I think I did this because non-ghosting LEDs didn't help with Funhouse, but it's been a while.
Edit: found it in another pinside thread. Zip file near the bottom.
1 year later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Done properly there is no pulling, no stressing the clear over inserts.
I've removed two mylars in my time.
One was a Funhouse playfield mylar, using various levels of chemicals until found one strong enough to break down the mylar adheasive and not damage the artwork. Slow, but worked, and easy to control the amount and placement solvent.
Second was a Roadshow playfield using freeze spray method. Hard to tell if temperature is correct, to control the spray, and see if its working. Pulled up the clear over large inserts multiple times.
I would never recommend the freeze spray method, because of the very fact it's not an exact science, you don't know if the glue will freeze approriately, and for the same reason I hand polish ramps instead of flame polish them.
Risk vs reward, I would recommend the slower, safer method.
1 year later
Quoted from knockerlover:Getting a lot of ball hang ups between the thing box and the thing lockout to the swamp. What have others done to solve this?
Is it getting held up in the swamp area? If so, google "addams family swamp accelerator".
Just fyi, 3d print or make your own to save a few bucks.
7 months later
Quoted from pinballinreno:How much for just a photoshopped copy on an old piece of paper? Lol.
$32.95?
https://pinballfanatic.com/product/addams-family-gold-pinball-collectors-certificate/
However, if someone has the original cert for 881 let me know.
11 months later
Quoted from DystopicPinball:Looking for Addams Family mods?
Check my website https://www.dystopicpinball.com and send an email if need more info
Thanks
[quoted image]
I think you have Mortisha confused with Elvira lol.
1 month later
Quoted from JvdS:Nice job!
Any chance you can share (picture) the thing-cover-label (back of the PF). I see yours is still there (white label, red text).
Or is this label somewhere to download....can't find it....
I don't know if this helps, but I have the label from a TAFG which I recreated that I can send you. The label from a TAFG is just *slightly* different (letter spacing, location of part number).
If you want to recreate your own, I used a font called "Dotum" which appears to be a match.
2 months later
Quoted from Kromwell:Hi all
New member looking for some restoration advice for my TAF that I am giving a big overhaul.
I have two challenges,
1) During my playfield swap it fell from the stand and a metal part made a dent in the playfield. It driving me crazy but I am unsure whether it better to leave it alone. Have considered trying to fill it up with clear coat
Any thoughts ?
2) Someone decided to violently pull out the lock bar, leaving a huge hole in the cabinet. I am considering fitting a piece of wood into the hole and then use wood filler to patch it up, followed by sanding.
Any thoughts on that approach ?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ouch! Was this a real Gold?
Never used fiberglass resin for a repair like this, only Bondo. Don't know if that's an option, or what the pros cons are vs fiberglass resin.
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Auckland, NZ
Vancouver, BC
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