(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome

By mima

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 3,689 posts
  • 410 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Trooper11040
  • Topic is favorited by 257 Pinsiders


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#3449 3 months ago

My wife and I just got a TAF machine, and it's been tons of fun.

The shooter feels a little...soggy, so we're thinking we'll replace the spring. Any suggestions on the spring tension? I'm very new to this.

#3458 3 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

You'll want to download the manual and everything is displayed there.
Page 60/124

Thanks for the heads up, I ended up finding the full shooter part list on a later page of the manual, looked up the shooter spring and found it’s a match for this guy: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-148-4

1 week later
#3480 3 months ago

While I was replacing the rubbers and cleaning the playfield of our new-to-us machine, my wife took the opportunity to paint the electric chair and touch up the playfield.
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#3489 3 months ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Does anyone still make or sell the GREED book mod that encapsulates the two light bulbs?

I messaged mjenison directly and he said he does still make them, i just received mine yesterday in fact. It’s really well made.

4 weeks later
#3559 68 days ago

We recently had a weird thing happen - we leveled our machine, with a play field tilt of 6.5, and the ball started getting stuck behind the Thing ramp (middle ramp). Anyone else run into this? How did you fix it?
We tried sticking a strip of foam in there (attached to the left "wall" and "floor", so that it's a little curved - sorry, away from my machine right now so I can't take a picture, but it doesn't work anyway), but that doesn't help. We're considering trying to set the left of the machine a little higher so that the ball will roll down more easily, or putting in a small wedge.

#3562 64 days ago

Thanks for the tips. We did level the machine with the glass off, pretty sure our floor is slightly uneven (old wooden floor, some warping) since we've seen some slight differences in play when the machine is moved.

So my wife actually made a little "ramp" inside with Sugru; basically adding a small ramp-like curve to the surface. That seems to have nixed the problem and generally makes the ball play better when going from the Thing ramp to the Thing kickout.

2 weeks later
#3569 50 days ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

After a very long pause, I’m starting back on my Addams restore. I just made a big parts order, but didn’t see any ramp flaps available.
Does anyone know where I could pick some up? Pinbits looked to be out of stock. I’m only really needing the ones attached to the metal thing ramp, and the one in the shooter lane[quoted image]

Wow, that's a nice playfield. Is it stock?

#3570 50 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Level using the playfield itself with glass off.

So we double checked the leveling and it seemed OK, but it was at about 6.8 degrees. That didn't seem *too* far of 6.5, although I have learned how much of a difference even small measurements can make! Anyway my wife added a small "ramp" using Sugru the now it plays perfectly.

Incidentally, before adjusting the leveling we also had problems where the ball would still inside the Swamp, occasionally needing a pretty significant nudge. We were nearly about to order Lee's Swamp Acceleratorbut leveling it to 6.5 degrees and ensuring the left/right leveling was even seemed to do the trick.

Anyway, with the playfield 100% leveled correctly to 6.5 and with my wife's wild little Sugru ramp in place, the ball doesn't stick in the Thing ramp or in the Swamp anymore!

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#3571 50 days ago

Backbox layered lighting (thanks Comet!):

Layered blinking effects using Comet Pinball LEDs.
Cousin It: 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Slow, Warm White
Fester (lower): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Fester (upper): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Slow, Cool White
Children (lower): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Children (upper): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Slow, Cool White
Auntie: 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Woman in dirt: 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Behind Morticia and Gomez: 1SMD Bulb - Cool White
Thing and other lights: 1SMD Bulb - Warm White

1 week later
#3579 42 days ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

I put a flame bulb behind the grandma. Adds to the fire/cauldron image.

Where can I find this magical thing?

#3580 42 days ago

New coin door inserts, courtesy filamentprinting !

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2 weeks later
#3616 24 days ago

I strongly agree with the LED OCD and GI OCD crowd. I wasn’t entirely sure and didn’t really even know what the GI OCD did, but I took the plunge and ordered them both anyway. Absolutely worth every penny, it’s not sexy like other mods but if I had to choose between a game with LED & GI OCD boards and...anything else, I’d take the one with the OCD boards.

Since I had no idea what they did before buying and couldn’t find any clear answers, I figure I’ll share my experience here.

In addition to evening out the flashing of inserts, smoother dimming of bulbs so they don’t get that weird quasi-flicker when the game dims them, and getting rid of ghosting entirely:
- GI OCD lets you set the Minimum and maximum brightness of each of the 5 lighting “strings”, which also lets you set the overall brightness. It also lets you trigger different brightness values for each string based on whether the game is active (ie if a solo kid has fired in the last X seconds). This lets you do cool things like dim the backbox lights and raise GI illumination when playing the game, and inverse that when a game isn’t going on. There are no presets per game, but there are basically only 5 lights to set (5 strings).
- LED OCD lets you set each individual light on the playfield. There are presets that populate the labels of each light so you can easily see what it is, but no preset brightness settings (they’re all the same default brightness as a normal LED).

It doesn’t let you control flasher brightness, at least not on TAF.

Another note on brightness: you may think the brightness is fine or not too bright, but dimming all the lights made such a HUGE difference. I didn’t realize how fatigued my eyes were from the brighter lights. Also, colours are way more vibrant at dimmer settings. Green and yellow in particular look much more “green” and “yellow” with lower brightness. I did not expect this, but if I did it would have been a huge selling point for me. Plus when comparing side by side with a newer machine (Alice Cooper Nightmare Castle), the LEDs on that machine are not nearly as bright as an LED converted pre-OCD Addams Family. So this normalized the brightness, which is also a plus.

You can also test different settings before you apply them, load all the settings onto your game to see it in action without having to commit (save), and save different overall configurations as files and load them whenever you wish.

Configuring it does require a laptop, which you only need when changing settings. You don’t have to have a computer continually hooked up to your machine.

There is web software that can be used for Linux or Mac, or native applications for Windows. I am a software developer with a Mac and I honestly got a bit frustrated trying to set up the Linux/web version, even with the provided VMware image (there’s no free VMware client for Mac), so I loaded up a free Windows developer image (available from Microsoft) into VirtualBox (also free) and used the Windows apps. They worked great and was easy to use.

Hope that helps somebody!

1 week later
#3628 18 days ago

I got my Thing LED board from Pinshakers this weekend too! I love it and it looks great.

I am having a weird issue where I can't get the translight back in - the bottom of the ColorDMD seems to rest on the "U" channel preventing the speaker panel from settling down to the very bottom, and as a result I can't get the translight over the top ~1/16" of the speaker panel H channel. Any tips?

#3629 18 days ago
Quoted from MintIndeed:

I got my Thing LED board from Pinshakers this weekend too! I love it and it looks great.
I am having a weird issue where I can't get the translight back in - the bottom of the ColorDMD seems to rest on the "U" channel preventing the speaker panel from settling down to the very bottom, and as a result I can't get the translight over the top ~1/16" of the speaker panel H channel. Any tips?

The problem may be between the stool and the backbox... I just realized there was a mounting hole on the ColorDMD in-between "too high to close the backbox" and "very bottom". Basically one notch below Durzel's pictures above, allows the backbox to close and allows the DMD to settle fully into the U-channel.

It's still a little tighter fit to get the translight back in - but that could be a number of factors (I also replaced the speaker panel cover with a new aftermarket reproduction, and I have had some difficulty getting the LED OCD board positioned to play nicely with the position of the Thing LED board connector). After some jostling around I was able to get the translight over the lip.

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