Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider coyote.
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Those were actually used to help 'soften' or 'lessen' the bend that the ramp flaps can bend. (Also, they were 2-sided sticky tape, to help hold the ramp in place while screwing it down..) Without them - especially if you use a thinner ramp-flap material - you could get airballs off hard shots to the ramps. 
That message means that the game's "Coin Door Open" switch is reporting as closed, even when the door is open. Check the switch, and wiring to the switch.
Being able to access it once on factory reset is expected in this situation.
Quoted from Indusguys:They are brighter for sure, but I think the CPR look great!
Yeah, they're brighter than the ones that went out with machines back in the 90's. But correct or not? I can't say. I DO like it, the bright colors look sooooo nice.
It wouldn't be a connector.
Since those lamps are controlled by a ROW and a COLUMN, if one of those connectors was bad, then you would get a whole ROW or COLUMN out, not a single bulb..
Quoted from jgadzia:so most likely then a connector bad on the playfield lamp board?
Yeah, or:
(1) A broken row/column wire at a previous lamp in the wire loom (unlikely), or
(2) The twist sockets/holders are corroded and just not making good connection.
Likely, though, the two row wires for those lights (Red/Br & Red/Yel) just came loose in the IDC socket, and aren't making a connection.
Quoted from jgadzia:ok pulled the board out and the problem is i have two bad diodes on the board, where do i find which type of diode i need?
IN4001 - 1N4004 will work just fine.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/micro-commercial-co/1N4001-TP/1N4001-TPMSCT-ND/773688
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:They're all GI. The bayonet sockets are meant to take 455 flasher lamps. They only came in that base at the time.
This.
Quoted from soren:The post at the Thing hole. It looks like a ball trap if I ever saw one. So I might have been there for a previous configuration of the ball guide below. Could have been a situation where ball fed from the lane would race past the hole.
The post rubber at the bumpers will adjust what percentage random bounces will go to the inlane. It might have been changed during production. It might have been rationalised during production. It might have been changed by previous owners. Either consciously or by mistake.
This is correct - the post there was changed after sample games, when the game went into production. The post there made it impossible to get the skill shot, and made it more difficult for the ball to be popped out - especially if the coil was misaligned or already weak.
Hey guys -
Quick tech question for everyone!
I know you can adjust the height of the bookcase so that it is nice and level with the playfield. But what's the procedure for aligning the bookcase base left-to-right? On this game, one side - say in front of the ramp - may be even with the playfield, but the end that leads to the Adv X loop under Thing is a good 1/8" higher.
Thanks!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes, the adjustment is underneath. A combination of washers and post nut adjustments.
It's a little finicky but can be adjusted perfectly.
Huh, cool. Let me take a look!
Quoted from LTG:Does your game still have the two sheet metal spacers that go between the metal base and playfield ?
LTG : )
Don't know - but I doubt it. Will check when I get over there next.
Edit to add - when I was looking at it, I did not see any spacers off-hand. Not sure how visible they would be.
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:Leveling the bookcase is tricky. Here's what I found. First, you have to step away from it. Maybe take some phone calls, or play a different pinball machine. Then quietly sneak up on it, acting nonchalant, like you don't really care. Adjust the washers and nuts one last time. Suddenly it will be level.
I am very, very familiar with this technique. I have to implement it very, very often in my TZ. 
Quoted from pacman11:I've had two Addams Family pins over the years and this one I have currently the sound doesn't seem as loud. Almost like the background music was louder on my other one. My first Addams had the gold roms and this one has the standard ones. Would that make a difference? Also the knocker inside the cabinet isn't as loud either is there a mod that makes it louder?
Check R23 and R24 on the Audio board. Verify they are 56k, and not 150k.
The pre-DCS audio boards had two revisions, one where these two were 150k, and the other where they were populated with 56k. The WPC schematics show them as 120k, this is wrong.
The values ehre are the pre-mix audio levels, so if they're 15k, will cause the channels to be quieter.
Quoted from Durzel:Considering it, but would like to know how complete it is. From the sounds of it you still need to buy and fit trim all around? For the price I'd like to think it would be supplied ready to install.
"trim"?
If you're meaning the plastic parts on the original glass that hold the translight in and the liftbar? Or are you meaning something else?
Quoted from Durzel:I'm trying to wire up a power adapter to my TAF to power some mods, the instructions I've been given show a pin layout that doesn't match mine..
The instructions have this on:
[quoted image]
But my female transformer plug looks like this:
[quoted image]
According to this - http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Primary_Voltage_Selection_Jumpers_at_the_Transformer - the white wire (in pin 4 on mine) should be in pin 7, and the orange loop (in pin 6 on mine) should be in pin 9.
The machine works without any issues so I can only presume I'm missing something obvious, or the male plug is wired wrong?
Is my configuration legit? (I'm guessing it is nothing like you US guys have)
Contact the MOD developer.
The graphic image of the plug is for US model (120v) pinout, you have a different voltage selector there. That plug/socket is used to set incoming game voltage. Therefore, check with the maker of the mod and find out where the correct pins would be for your voltage plug.
Quoted from Durzel:Hi,
Could you please look at my other thread specifically about this issue:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-transformer-wiring-anomaly
Not entirely sure what you mean. The maker of the mod is UK based, the instructions assume a UK voltage selected etc.
Your game looks to be wired for 210v (205, 207, 215, in that variant.)
I say contact the MOD maker, because if you connect your wires up with your plug like that, you could fry it, or end up giving it low voltage.
You can rewire your plug for 230, too. Won't hurt anything. (May notice game runs softer - weaker coils, dimmer bulbs - but it'd be a small difference.)
Quoted from golfingdad1:Help me out folks,
My inserts on the mansion seem to be out of order or i am nuts . I did a PF swap and now this , but maybe im wrong .
On first ball either mamushka or cousin it are lit . Weird always thought it started on mamushka.
Then when mamushka is complete it jumps up to second row to 6 million. If cousin it is first mode and then completed it jumps to mamushka instead of moving left to graveyard max that doesnt seem correct .
Another thing that stood out , after completing or lighting extra ball insert the next insert it jumps to is 3 million bottom left, i thought it always jumped back to mamushka bottom right .
Please help, or tell me im crazy and its fine .
No - when awarded, the next lit mansion is always the one to the RIGHT, or up a row and back to the left. (Mamuska -> 6 Mil, Seance -> 9 Mil, Extra Ball -> 3 Mil).
Will skip over any that are already awarded, of course. (So if you have 6 Mil lit already, Mamuska will go to Quick Multiball.)
That is neat - especially sicne I could never design anything "3D" like that.
However, I am curious - did you try adjusting your plunger? And even fully adjusted it was off that much? That's surprising..
Quoted from EvanDickson:I adjusted my plunger as much as possible, but I would have to cut into the cabinet to adjust it enough to make a difference.
That's fair! Just surprised. I don't think I ever seen that before!
Quoted from CLEllison:Well,apparently no one wants to sell a thing lamp board so I decided I'm going to make my own.
Used a freeware program called dip trace. I designed with the intentions of allowing the board to sit flat against the speaker mount with no light bleed (and since LED's don't get all that hot) and will use original mounting holes. I've got a few emails out now to see how much getting the PCB is going to cost.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice.
Switch to a couple SMDs per letter, and then check out MacroFab that can do the assembly and all with it.
Quoted from CLEllison:I'll have to double check but IIRC I did originally attempt to go with SMD but diptrace didnt have an option for it. I'll have to revisit that tonight. Not that it's a big deal but I also noticed I used Diode instead of resistor. I was so focused on recreating the board... lol so I changed that an rearranged a few of the traces. Still a WIP.
Im pretty anal so once I'm sure I've got the right stuff I very well make up a few more and offer for sale. Price unknown.... which will be the deciding factor.
There is! If not, you can easily make your own. I've used DipTrace for MANY years, and have made my own MPU-200 replacement using that. (With SMD components.) If you need help with anything, send a PM. be glad to help teach.
Quoted from radium:Perhaps, but for $150 a machine none of my games are getting it.
This never fails to amuse me.
Folks will pay $200, $300 for a mod - a plastic toy that blocks gameplay or artwork, and may or may not light up - and have a game where the GI either dosen't dim or flickers when dimmed, and inserts that have a cold hard "on/off" cycle.
I mean, to each his own. I'm one of the guys that would pay $150 and have the LEDs be stealthy.
(For any operators out there, this is also proof that LEDding a game can hurt profits, too - when out in California a few years back, a nice arcade near my hotel had some mid-2000's Sterns. They were in fantastic condition! Clean, fast-playing. But they had LEDs installed. The gameroom was dimmed - dark, and while I don't remember the specific game, it had some fast on/off lightshows - the brightness dropping to almost blackness was too much. Couldn't see the ball, and took away from the fun of playing. I did not continue my game, I didn't play the game again. It wasn't a fun experience.)
Quoted from jeffro01:and going with warm white non-ghosting LEDs which I think look more natural to begin with
Ghosting and Non-Ghosing Warm Whites should be the same color, assuming you get them at the same time, from the same seller.
Quoted from jeffro01:Yeah, it's more so whether or not I go with ghosting or non-ghosting... I have an email out to PinballBulbs who provided the kit I'm working off of to find out if they ship ghosting or non-ghosting LEDs. That'll help with my decision making...
Jeff
Oh! I misunderstood - apologies!
Quoted from CLEllison:With all due respect, the "kind" of bulb you get shouldn't matter. The OCD boards do remove ghosting but the real selling point is getting rid of the sharp on/off nature and allowing natural fade. All I can say is DO NOT buy these boards if you have more than one pin. You'll seriously hate LEDs without it.
In the end it actually does - while both bulbs will get rid of the hard ramp up/ramp down effect, ghosting bulbs will be more difficult to get the ramp set how you like it. Because of the small cap and resistor in there, the lower different brightness stages (B0-b3ish, give or take) will just appear 'off'.
All this stuff on the bookcase...
I wouldn't do it. It decreases my chance for getting "Dirty Pool!"
Quoted from gac:It is so hard to get "Dirty Pool"! I've gotten it like twice in nearly 20 years.
Honestly, it's not really a thing you can shoot for. I think, when I had the game, I would get it once a month or so, and it was always because of a ball bounce or airball. (If memory serves, on the game I had, it was the Cousin It targets - hit them just right from the upper right flipper, and they'd flex and send the ball up.)
Eh, anyways - don't get me wrong, I like all of those little bookcases.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:They're actually controlled lights. I forget when they light, though.
Isn't it hitting the GRAVE targets? I can't remember, and it's on the tip of my flipper. Or maybe shots up the ramp?
Quoted from cumulonimbus:Need suggestions please for some odd lighting behavior in lower play field. Mansion shows 2 modes at same time. 3 million and graveyard at max on constantly. Right special lane on. Extra ball light lights without getting extra ball. Have reseated all leds in mansion as well as cables in backbox. I’m obviously not doing something right. Any help appreciated.
Do lamps work as expected in Test Mode?
If so, then check your Feature Adjustments - you mak have some things set outside of Factory defaults.
Quoted from cumulonimbus:No all pins aligned. I am experiencing multiple lights coming on when in single lights test, the correct one and 2 or 3 others.......?
Okay - light matrix issues. A diode shorted or reversed somewhere.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Anybody know what this error is? It randomly and not very frequently pops up (only seen it a few times). My TAF came with L5 installed and Gold as a spare. For my LED ColorDMD, it said I needed L7 or Gold, so I installed Gold. But I don’t recall the Gold rom coming with a sound chip. Assuming that’s the issue. Still works fine.
Recycling power typically makes it go away.
[quoted image]
Your U5 is starting to fail on your sound board. Nothing to do with Color DMD or your Game ROM.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Did you mean U5 or U15 (the audio ROM that is reporting as failed)?
Thanks!
I meant U15 - apologies. Fat fingers.
EPROMs can go bad, but it could also be a bad bypass capacitor or oxidation on chip/socket casing an occasional bad read.
Quoted from Bospins:Hi all. I've had my TAF for about a year and I have 3 rules questions
1) how in the world do you advance the bonus x?
2) most of the time when i lock a ball for multiball (any of them), it feeds a ball into the shooter lane. I like that because if gives me a chance for the skill shot. But other times, it kicks out of the swamp. Is there rhyme or reason as to why it does one or the other?
3) and most perplexing...sometimes on ball drain, during the bonus calculation, it will give me some mansion mode scores again as my bonus. Like if I activate cousin it for example, and i play through to finish the mode, then activate another mode...then drain, it will award me whatever, 10M, when the mode finishes and then that same 10M again as part of the bonus. but this doesn't ALWAYS happen. It may be linked to certain modes, or not, I can't find rhyme or reason there. I know that if you drain before the mode ends it will just give you whatever you accumulated in the bonus calc.
1. I believe that the ball has to roll through the right inline, hit the switch, and then you have to shoot up past the pop-bumpers and around the loop.
2. If there are no balls in the trough (i.e. Player 1 locks two balls, and then player 2 is up.) it will eject the ball from the swamp.
3. Some modes do not award the score you get AS YOU PLAY the mode. Instead, the score is saved up, and awarded at bonus.
Quoted from Bospins:re: 2...this makes total sense. But I find the game doesn't eject the locked balls after the game ends...is that a setting someplace? So if I lock 2 balls, then end the game, then start another...it starts with 2 balls locked and will kickout from the swamp.
I know SOME games have an Adjustment setting to kick the balls out after game over. It's possible TAFG ROMs have it. Do not know whenter pre-TAFG software had it or not, off-hand. (Sadly, no game in front of me to check. Hee.)
Quoted from WarriorPin:It seems like the skill shot on my TAF is almost automatic. I changed out the shooter rod, now seems the same? any suggestions?
Have the right spring on it?
Anyone have a part number for a cabinet flipper switch complete with screws? (The part that is mounted IN the cabinet, that the button presses against..)
Thanks. 
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:This is the switch, but I'm not sure of the screws.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1A-192
AH! Thank you, thank you. Screws, I could find replacements. The important thing are the switches.
Quoted from drfrightner:Tim Burton and Johnnie Depp as Gomez
So there's going to be TWO Gomez's? This should be interesting..!
Quoted from codered9394:I have a question. The mansion light board under the playfiels has diodes on the bottom of the board. I removed the bad diode but i want to make sure that a 1n4004 diode is a correct replacement. Looking through manualy i could not find a part number or listing. The diode removed has a qte listed on the diode but im not sure what this stands for. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yes - you can use anything from a 1N4001 to 1N4006 if you wanted. All good.
Quoted from snowvictim:I’ve noticed that the lower two dome flashers aren’t coming on in attract mode. The rest work fine.
Do the flashers flash in attract mode? I didn't think they did. Don't remember that, anyways.
Quoted from glpinball:I have a pinsound card and the flippers snap but the audio doesn't synch anymore.
This I believe, as the MPU is the one that tells the Fliptronics board to 'activate' the flippers, not the soundboard. The MPU would tell the sound board to play the sound, then tell the Fliptronics board to flip the flippers. With Pinsound's processing and wav-handling, it could be off / audio-sync delay.
Quoted from JohnTTwo:Not one fuse blown, checked them all with a tester. And what confuses me is the solenoids are on 2 circuts so 2 fuses would have to be blown. Seems it must be the main power for all solenoids.
What major component is the likely culprit?
Thanks
John
That is what you are trying to figure out.
Do you have voltages at the fuses? (DMM lead clip on fuse, lead clip on ground.)
If not, then go up-stream: Are you getting voltage at the plug for transformer secondary?
If so, then do down-stream: Are you getting voltage at the 50v feed (to coils) connector on the power supply board?
Quoted from altan:If someone put a 3 tab one on there, then I'd guess 2 of the 3 tabs must be electrically identical. You can probably visually determine which are connected together. You can use a DMM to determine that too.
Not sure if it was the case for TAF, but in some cases WMS used 3-tab switches. The third tab was not electrically connected to anything, and was just a solder-point for the diode.
I can't see in his picture, but it almost looks like the diode on his switch is connecting both lugs; which is should not be.
Quoted from wrd1972:normally open
This.
Fliptronics games were all normally open EOS switches.
Quoted from Bam_Man:So my thing flips flipper sticks up every time you flip and is being held up. The coil you can hear is on and it holds it up with some strength. I noticed one of the diodes is gone on that coil, could that be the issue? I can't seem to find it in the bottom of the cab. Also my upper right flipper all of a sudden doesn't do any thing at all. Should I be looking at a driver transistor on the flipper control board?
Quoted from Colsond3:You definitely need the diode on there. You should also check the corresponding transistor on the FCB, and check the solder joints / possible shorts or arcing on the circuit.
Sounds like your HOLD coil is stuck on. I would focus on that circuit.
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Hi Folks
I bought an Coin Taker LED flipper button kit
The directions show the coin door board for my power but my board doesn’t even have the connector pictured
Where else can I hook to 12vdc
Please see pics
Should be pin 1 and 4
[quoted image][quoted image]
You can add the plug, or solder the wires directly to the pin pads there on the board where the connector should be.
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Okay so even though the connectors not present this version Board should still produce the 12vdc
Thank you
I’ll
Test with a meter and give it a try
I honestly thought someone desoldered the connector and dip switches
Should be, yes! The coin interface board was modified (parts populated/depopulated) based on game's market. That specific connector was more used overseas for electronic coin-mechs and all.
Quoted from Harvey27:hold flipper does not work on test
This is normal - and not related to your other issue. Hold coils are sometimes not strong enough to lift the bat. You an test if they're working properly by holding the flipper bat mid-way, and feeling if it tries to move in your grasp when the Hold coil fires.
Quoted from Harvey27:Thanks, appreciate it.
Any thoughts regarding why lower flippers/switch aren't firing? When the "outer" contact of leaf switch closes the upper flippers fire. But the "inner" contact on both left and right flipper leaf switches don't register. I've cleaned the contacts. Doesn't seem to be a coil issue as they fire on the tests.
Switch wiring, bad switch contacts, or bad Fliptronics board. Can rule all that out with the Flipper Test in the menu and a multimeter.
Quoted from pghpinfan:Is there a setting for a ball save on TAF?
In the Gold ROMs, yes. Not in original TAF, as far as I can recall.
Added 22 months ago:Edit: Nevermind.
Quoted from RussMyers:TAF has no ball save, Gold ROMs or otherwise, UNLESS you score no points at all on a new ball, then you get it back.
It has to hit nothing, or almost nothing, and drain.
RM
Okay, good to know, I was wrong.
Quoted from cconway84:I’m not complaining to hear these are original. I just had a hard time believing it at first. These pf are both the same manufacturer Burkel Inc. Oconto falls WI 54154 (414)846-8453. They are both stamped as such. One was March of 94, the other was Dec ‘95.
The more faded or yellowed pf on the right is off the serial number 8 game that looks much cleaner, wasn’t drilled for a lock bar, didn’t have coin mechs installed, and looks brand new.
Wish I knew more of both games history. [quoted image]
These fields were screen-printed, which means the colors were mixed beforehand. (i.e. Like house paint, not like printers where a color is generated from 4 others overlaid over each other) It's entirely possible that an employee at this time messed up that fluorescent orange screen by accidentally running a different color through it before-hand, or the ink mixing was done wrong on this batch. Someone at WMS didn't flag it as bad when the game was made.
Quoted from dmacy:When using the Gold ROMS, can you use the non gold sound roms?
Yes. You'll just have animations without the 'new' sounds.
Quoted from PinballGalore:2. In test mode, the stars on the two ends of THING letters under the DMD light up. During gameplay I haven't ever seen them turn on. Have I not reached some stage during game play? Is it a rom issue (have gold installed) or is that just the way it is?
There's a specific shot you have to make - I BELIEVE it's shooting up through the pop bumpers around the outer loop to Thing, and then up the ramp from the upper right flipper.
I could be misremembering though, it's admittedly been a while since I've played a TAF..!
Quoted from The_Pump_House:U15 and U18 but there's only one sound rom for download on IPDB (Revision L-1 or P-2)
The fact there's only one means that the other dosen't change. So, only burn the one, L-1, and plug it into the socket it's labeled for. (U15 or U18). The other chip, don't touch.
Quoted from Michael_D:Sound problem question. My Addams just started playing callouts and sound effects randomly. Scoring seems to be working properly, but the sound files are completely out of synch. Has anyone come across this before?
Quoted from LTG:I'd try a factory reset first.
LTG : )
Then, reseat ribbon cables if factory reset doesn't work.
Quoted from Williampinball:Does anyone know why some TAF has two trasformers in the base Cab
One is likely an isolation transformer, which was (still is?) required in some Canadian provinces. A game I restored for someone, and later, a video I picked up with origins from the great white north had these. One older game (80's?) also had a small decal from the power supply company on it.
Quoted from anx10us:To follow up on my own post, all optos are working, 4 on bookcase and 1 on thing flips, I've sat and watched and they always remain open, haven't seen any intermittent false positives..
If I start a game and allow the ball to drain into the swamp, every time the G for GREED lights, then as we play the game, the rest of the lights get added intermittently, so we can regularly get GREED lit up and the bookcase open without hitting the bookcase at all ...
Is there some option in the same we have missed, I suppose this might happen if the bookcase wasn't working, or all the optos failed and would allow the game to carry on working even if the optos weren't working. It's almost as if I have to reset something so that the game knows the bookcase optos are fine ?
any ideas, its super annoying ..
I actually thought this was a 'feature' - at the start of every ball, the game will automagically add a letter for the first 'GREED" multiball. After the first one, it won't do it any more.
It's to make players that just suck at the game and can't hit the bookcase at all to get a little farther ahead in the game. Make them feel like they're not doing badly. (For on-location games, this was to prevent folks from getting PO'd at the game, so that they don't stop spending money..)
I could be wrong though, since I haven't had a TAF under my wing in (literal) decades..
Quoted from anx10us:Where this doesn't make a lot of sense is that on the second multi-ball GREED only advances when I hit the bookcase ..
This is expected. As previously stated, after the first multiball, the game makes it more difficult by not giving you free letters.
Quoted from anx10us:Is GREED adding letters on its own correct on the build up to the first multi-ball ? I assumed you would get G for the first switch thats hit and then should only get other letters when hitting the bookcase, or does the game randomly add the rest of the GREED letters even if you dont hit the bookcase on build up to the 1st multi-ball ?
Every ball, the player will get a 'free' letter. The player can hit the bookcase for additional letters, of course, but the 'free' letters are only given out for the first multiball.
Example:
Start game. "GR" is lit.
Miss skill shot, ball goes into swamp. "E" is lit.
Shoot Mansion, play a mode. Shoot ramp a few times. Finally hit the bookcase, and get the second "E".
Drain.
Ball 2, miss skill show again.
"D" is awarded. Book case opens and lights are lit for Lock.
Do awesome, start multiball. Drain.
Ball three. GREED is reset - no lights lit. Miss skill shot again, ball goes into swamp.
"G" is NOT lit for you, since first multiball was completed.
Quoted from harig:Are you sure the cabinet switches are tungsten ones?
TAF is fliptronics 1-so I wonder they still used tungsten switches in the cabinet instead of gold plated contacts
Gold plated. Low voltage, low current switches there.
Quoted from anx10us:Where I'm confused is that I would expect a sequence of switches in order to not be working, but in this case some switches in that row still work ..
There IS a sequence, just not what you're expecting.
There's a break or disconnect in your White-Blue wire. The order of the working switches are the switches in the line BEFORE the break. The switches that aren't working are BEHIND the break.
Before/Behind is in the order of how the wire was routed. (Wires are not routed from 1 to 8 - they're routed from where the harness reaches the playfield, in order, closest to the end of the harness, to next, to next, and so on.)
Fantastic! Glad you found it and got it working. Having that many switches out makes the game unplayable, so the easiest you can find it and fix it, the better.
Quoted from mmr61184:Have you guys noticed that sometimes on the switch matrix they put two of the white and striped wires together. For example on two of my switches I have a white and blue and a white and grey wire attached to the non banded lug of the switch. I traced them back to the column and row and think I figured out that the two grey wires are on a “not used” in the matrix. I guess my question is why bother having the wire at all. Is it because it comes off of one branch and it would not be possible to eliminate it?
... Uh, no. This would cause cross-row ghost switches being read by the software. Where/what switches do you see this one? (Both, White-Blue and White-Grey have active switches on them, so there is no completely 'unused'row or column on TZ..)
Quoted from mmr61184:So for example the right outline switch which is on the white and blue row and red and green column had a white and grey wire soldered to it.
I also noticed the same thing with the Grave A.
The interesting on both of those columns the white and grey that corresponded to them are labeled as not used.
This game has been in pieces for a couple years and I am putting it back together so just trying to figure it out.
I thought it was kind of odd myself. The other thing I can think of I wonder if the blue stripes on that wire faded a bit.
First, apologies about the Not Used comment - I completely forgot that we were talking TAF, and NOT TZ. D'oh.
It's possible that the blue they used faded, or someone loaded the wrong color in, or those are jumper wires. LTG may have some input on that. Personally, I'd follow the white/gry wire and see where it went next. That would be a clue.
Quoted from JvdS:Anybody knows how the inside of the cabinet of a TAF was painted originally. Should it be bare wood on the bottom and painted on the sides?
Mine is painted on the sites, bare on the bottom BUT on the sides of the bottom a glance of black can be seen. Is this correct or should it be ' full bare wood'?
Also the sides are not full black (only where you can see the sides while playing it's full black).
Wondering if I should paint it full black full inside or leave it like described. I'm trying to restore my TAF to original.
[quoted image]
This is correct for that era of games. Only visible parts were painted. However, in some cases, wood from old cabinets was used, so you'll sometimes find other art or remnants of other pain colors hidden down there.
Quoted from Colsond3:My Radical has part of a Bad Cats cabinet in it. When I saw it, I thought it was awesome.
[quoted image]
Hah! Awesome! My Sample TZ has that same piece of wood with a white base layer and some blue on it. There's not enough there to identify the game/machine it came from, sadly.
Quoted from metalkatt:Nice. Thank you. The flashers sockets are 455 sockets? So, last question…. The wiring going to the flashers is different than what’s in that picture…what harness/connector controls those 455 lamps?
Those are more commonly called 'blinkers' and not flashers. Blinkers are usually on the same GI string as other bulbs. (And not controlled +20v from the solenoid driver board).
Quoted from metalkatt:Where would those lights show up under the “tests” menu? I’m not in front of the game so I have to ask.
Blinkers are part of the GI - so there would not be a specific test for just them - the GI test would test them. (ie GI strand on? They'd be blinking. GI strand off? They'd be off..)
For TAF, I do not know if ALL the blinkers would be on the same GI string or not.
Hell - I can't even remember if the TAF I had on location 30+ years ago even HAD blinkers from the factory. Heh.
Quoted from mmr61184:Well then I stand corrected, from the pics on his site it looks like he doesn’t include it on his decals. I don’t have my decals here anymore to check in person so I can’t tell if it’s his pics or if it truly isn’t there
Apologies, fr the record I was talking about the OEM cabinet art - while I've seen some repro decal sites, I haven't recently so I am not sure what's out there.
I also don't know Pheonix Arcade - the last decal reproduction company I heard of that was worth a crap was based over in UK somewhere.
Quoted from Threetreys:Probably covered somewhere in here elsewhere but I'm stuck. Thing magnet works fine except when supposed to drop ball back in saucer ("No, No, No . . .) Thing keeps the ball then eventually let's it go to the swamp on a ball search.. Everything else works. Has passed all tests and switches seem to be working. Took everything apart and looked at wires in Thing (though I did not really suspect this was the issue) and everything seems good. Optos seem to be working but is this where the issue is?
Balls or coil bolt (that picks up the ball) is permanently magnetized?
Very nice. I like how they used color to make Morticia and Gomez stand out, and the color inserts in the field still. Really nice design.
Quoted from Santis:I hope it help you.
[quoted image]
Your EOS is wrong there - it needs to be a NO, low-voltage switch.
Quoted from LTG:Addams is Fliptronics. NO. Pawl closes it on the up swing.
LTG : )
Yeah, that's what I meant. He has a NC'd one there.
Then it's been replaced. Cabinets from that era were screen-printed. Not bare with a decal applied later.
Quoted from marschner:Anyone knows whether the connector pin size for the magnets are 0.062 or 0.0.93 molex?
I want to make my own magnet fuse kit but I am not quite sure about the correct size for the housings and pins.
[quoted image]
.093 the magnets are, yup.
Quoted from marschner:They are 0.62 and not 0.93 Molex! Ordered both to be sure.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The magnets I bought from Marco have .062 connectors on them.
Interesting - from factory, back in the 90's, they were all 0.93s. Hell, I have an NOS one that's still in it's bag somewhere over in storage. (Never used it, since it's the old style without the thermal fuse thing.)
Quoted from marschner:Was the fuse kit at some point installed from factory?
Not that I'm aware of. IMHO it was an RGP 'preventative maintenance fix' way back in the day.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Powered up my TAF today and got this. Anyone care to take a stab as to what might be wrong? I reset all connectors to CB's. Visually checked fuses. Will check fuses with DMM next, but thought I would see if anyone has any ideas as to where to start. No boot sound, no power to Playfield, no lights on back box. 4 LED's lit up on the Power driver board, no lights on the CPU board. Garbled display.
[quoted image]
Quoted from LTG:I'd check the voltage test points on the driver board. See if any are low or missing.
LTG : )
CPU has no power - no LEDs on there. So likely no +5v present anywhere.
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