(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

5 years ago



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  • 3,075 posts
  • 360 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by 27dnast
  • Topic is favorited by 217 Pinsiders

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#1963 1 year ago

Those were actually used to help 'soften' or 'lessen' the bend that the ramp flaps can bend. (Also, they were 2-sided sticky tape, to help hold the ramp in place while screwing it down..) Without them - especially if you use a thinner ramp-flap material - you could get airballs off hard shots to the ramps.

#1984 1 year ago

That message means that the game's "Coin Door Open" switch is reporting as closed, even when the door is open. Check the switch, and wiring to the switch.

Being able to access it once on factory reset is expected in this situation.

4 weeks later
#2068 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

They are brighter for sure, but I think the CPR look great!

Yeah, they're brighter than the ones that went out with machines back in the 90's. But correct or not? I can't say. I DO like it, the bright colors look sooooo nice.

3 weeks later
#2120 1 year ago

It wouldn't be a connector.
Since those lamps are controlled by a ROW and a COLUMN, if one of those connectors was bad, then you would get a whole ROW or COLUMN out, not a single bulb..

#2122 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

so most likely then a connector bad on the playfield lamp board?

Yeah, or:
(1) A broken row/column wire at a previous lamp in the wire loom (unlikely), or
(2) The twist sockets/holders are corroded and just not making good connection.

Likely, though, the two row wires for those lights (Red/Br & Red/Yel) just came loose in the IDC socket, and aren't making a connection.

#2138 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

ok pulled the board out and the problem is i have two bad diodes on the board, where do i find which type of diode i need?

IN4001 - 1N4004 will work just fine.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/micro-commercial-co/1N4001-TP/1N4001-TPMSCT-ND/773688

#2153 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

They're all GI. The bayonet sockets are meant to take 455 flasher lamps. They only came in that base at the time.

This.

4 months later
#2389 9 months ago
Quoted from soren:

The post at the Thing hole. It looks like a ball trap if I ever saw one. So I might have been there for a previous configuration of the ball guide below. Could have been a situation where ball fed from the lane would race past the hole.
The post rubber at the bumpers will adjust what percentage random bounces will go to the inlane. It might have been changed during production. It might have been rationalised during production. It might have been changed by previous owners. Either consciously or by mistake.

This is correct - the post there was changed after sample games, when the game went into production. The post there made it impossible to get the skill shot, and made it more difficult for the ball to be popped out - especially if the coil was misaligned or already weak.

2 weeks later
#2410 9 months ago

Hey guys -
Quick tech question for everyone!

I know you can adjust the height of the bookcase so that it is nice and level with the playfield. But what's the procedure for aligning the bookcase base left-to-right? On this game, one side - say in front of the ramp - may be even with the playfield, but the end that leads to the Adv X loop under Thing is a good 1/8" higher.

Thanks!

#2412 9 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes, the adjustment is underneath. A combination of washers and post nut adjustments.
It's a little finicky but can be adjusted perfectly.

Huh, cool. Let me take a look!

#2414 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Does your game still have the two sheet metal spacers that go between the metal base and playfield ?
LTG : )

Don't know - but I doubt it. Will check when I get over there next.

Edit to add - when I was looking at it, I did not see any spacers off-hand. Not sure how visible they would be.

#2418 9 months ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

Leveling the bookcase is tricky. Here's what I found. First, you have to step away from it. Maybe take some phone calls, or play a different pinball machine. Then quietly sneak up on it, acting nonchalant, like you don't really care. Adjust the washers and nuts one last time. Suddenly it will be level.

I am very, very familiar with this technique. I have to implement it very, very often in my TZ.

3 months later
#2649 5 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I've had two Addams Family pins over the years and this one I have currently the sound doesn't seem as loud. Almost like the background music was louder on my other one. My first Addams had the gold roms and this one has the standard ones. Would that make a difference? Also the knocker inside the cabinet isn't as loud either is there a mod that makes it louder?

Check R23 and R24 on the Audio board. Verify they are 56k, and not 150k.
The pre-DCS audio boards had two revisions, one where these two were 150k, and the other where they were populated with 56k. The WPC schematics show them as 120k, this is wrong.

The values ehre are the pre-mix audio levels, so if they're 15k, will cause the channels to be quieter.

4 weeks later
#2749 4 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Considering it, but would like to know how complete it is. From the sounds of it you still need to buy and fit trim all around? For the price I'd like to think it would be supplied ready to install.

"trim"?
If you're meaning the plastic parts on the original glass that hold the translight in and the liftbar? Or are you meaning something else?

1 week later
#2790 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I'm trying to wire up a power adapter to my TAF to power some mods, the instructions I've been given show a pin layout that doesn't match mine..
The instructions have this on:
[quoted image]
But my female transformer plug looks like this:
[quoted image]
According to this - http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Primary_Voltage_Selection_Jumpers_at_the_Transformer - the white wire (in pin 4 on mine) should be in pin 7, and the orange loop (in pin 6 on mine) should be in pin 9.
The machine works without any issues so I can only presume I'm missing something obvious, or the male plug is wired wrong?
Is my configuration legit? (I'm guessing it is nothing like you US guys have)

Contact the MOD developer.
The graphic image of the plug is for US model (120v) pinout, you have a different voltage selector there. That plug/socket is used to set incoming game voltage. Therefore, check with the maker of the mod and find out where the correct pins would be for your voltage plug.

#2792 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Hi,
Could you please look at my other thread specifically about this issue:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-transformer-wiring-anomaly
Not entirely sure what you mean. The maker of the mod is UK based, the instructions assume a UK voltage selected etc.

Your game looks to be wired for 210v (205, 207, 215, in that variant.)

I say contact the MOD maker, because if you connect your wires up with your plug like that, you could fry it, or end up giving it low voltage.
You can rewire your plug for 230, too. Won't hurt anything. (May notice game runs softer - weaker coils, dimmer bulbs - but it'd be a small difference.)

2 weeks later
#2858 3 months ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Help me out folks,
My inserts on the mansion seem to be out of order or i am nuts . I did a PF swap and now this , but maybe im wrong .
On first ball either mamushka or cousin it are lit . Weird always thought it started on mamushka.
Then when mamushka is complete it jumps up to second row to 6 million. If cousin it is first mode and then completed it jumps to mamushka instead of moving left to graveyard max that doesnt seem correct .
Another thing that stood out , after completing or lighting extra ball insert the next insert it jumps to is 3 million bottom left, i thought it always jumped back to mamushka bottom right .
Please help, or tell me im crazy and its fine .

No - when awarded, the next lit mansion is always the one to the RIGHT, or up a row and back to the left. (Mamuska -> 6 Mil, Seance -> 9 Mil, Extra Ball -> 3 Mil).

Will skip over any that are already awarded, of course. (So if you have 6 Mil lit already, Mamuska will go to Quick Multiball.)

#2876 3 months ago

That is neat - especially sicne I could never design anything "3D" like that.

However, I am curious - did you try adjusting your plunger? And even fully adjusted it was off that much? That's surprising..

#2884 3 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

I adjusted my plunger as much as possible, but I would have to cut into the cabinet to adjust it enough to make a difference.

That's fair! Just surprised. I don't think I ever seen that before!

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