(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome

By mima

6 years ago

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  • 402 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by TicTacSeth
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#3128 7 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Who makes the aftermarket metal "thing" box - the one under the playfield...I've seen some on restorations that look way heavy duty compared to the flimsy original.

Are you referring to this?

#3130 7 months ago

Just joined the club. Other than magnet fuses.and Cliffys, is there any other bullet proofing a person should do ? I see this guy make mention of whacking a diode and no one responded. Any thoughts to that?

Screenshot_20190723-200158_Chrome (resized).jpg
#3132 7 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

My TAF was redone before it got to me, but all of the factory decals/stickers in side the game are gone. Can anyone point me to a place that shows them or snap some pictures? Thanks.

Google Addams family pinball restoration. Almost assuredly to find every picture you'll ever need.

#3140 7 months ago
Quoted from codered9394:

What is everyone doing about the blue pad on the bookcase that cushions the ball hits? I cant find them with the u.s. suppliers. I was not aware that is was suppose to be there so my bookcase has paid the price. Thanks


#3147 7 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Where does the blue pad go? Any photos?

tafpad (resized).PNG
#3154 7 months ago
Quoted from Barr993:

I've been checking the CPR BG reviews out but I'm not sold yet.

The ink is definently darker, but I do honestly believe if a person adds super bright white LEDs into the back box that thing would look absolutely golden. It's too bad CPR doesn't take the time to shoot pictures of the product installed with the proper lighting to really showcase their products.

#3156 7 months ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Thanks for the info. Talked with Marco yesterday and they said they will have the pads in stock in 2 weeks if anyone else is looking.

I was just told by two different sales people at Marco that they needed to contact their supplier to see if they can even get them anymore and if so probably 30 days out.

2 weeks later
#3180 6 months ago

Just had my TAF delivered today. I have a few questions as I've only ever played this pin in loud environments so I've never truly heard the sound. It's running the L1 rom which I plan on replacing but is the audio normally kind of quiet/tinny compared to the sound effects and voice call outs?
Second question, it's got a shooter rod spring that you can hit the skillshot EVERY single time. I certainly dont remember that being normal. Confirm please.
Final question, the skillshot, when it kicks the ball out it's sometimes getting stuck behind thing. I plan on replacing all the coil sleeves but is there something else potentially causing this?

#3187 6 months ago
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:

If a full plunge only reaches the skill shot, the most likely cause is that the shooter rod is not aligned with the center of the ball. If you're just saying that it's an easy skill shot, well yes that's true.

Thank you. The shooter rod was a little off which I realigned. However I found the main issue to be some ding dong bent the shooter rod housing front piece outward so the rod tip was barely hitting the ball. /smh

As far as the skill shot coil issue, I took it out, noticed the rubber butt stop was almost non existent and replaced, also replaced the coil sleeve. I bent the bracket just a tad. Tested and now the ball no longer hangs up, however the plunger still doesn't sit dead center of the play field cut out. Should the ball come rocketing out of there or a nice steady slower roll? I have nice and steady roll right now.

The book case doesn't sit level and for that matter it sits somewhat towards the left instead of sharing the distance on all sides if that makes sense. I do have a couple TAF shims on hand, does anyone have pictures of where these shims go?

#3190 6 months ago

Egads, previous owner must have had a color display - the thing light board is missing. Anyone have one they want to sell?

#3191 6 months ago

More puzzle pieces. Can someone tell me what these connectors are for and where is the ground wire supposed to be mounted?

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#3195 6 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The green ground wires goes to the leg bolt plate, and the ground braid should attach there also. You can see the start button and door interlock both look like green/red and white/red if you look close.
[quoted image]

Thank you

Quoted from Durzel:

Your ground braid doesn't look to be attached to the leg plate, which it should be. You can attach the ground lead there too.
As for the wires, as said above they look like they come off the door interlock switch (if it's not a TAFG then it doesn't have that logic anyway)
If you've got a TAF and are using Gold ROMs then the game would report the coin door opening (but not actually isolate coil power). It's possible the previous owner simply got irritated by the message.

Thank you. And thanks for going into speculation detial... .. makes absolute sense. I plan on adding gold roms so there's no point of getting an interlock switch as it's not a gold model. As far as the ground braid, yes it's not connected to the leg bracket. I'm not sure why they would do that.

#3197 6 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Leg bracket bolt holes get stripped over the years and somebody was lazy when replacing the plate.

Thanks guys the ground wire and ground strap are back in place.
I'd say you're probably right. I spent the entire day going over this machine. Identifying missing components, loose components and straight up worn out components. If I didn't know any better the only thing (no pun intended) the operator did on this was a periodic waxing.

Next up:
Rebuild all 4 flippers (new everything)
Rebuild all 5 pop bumpers (new everything)
Install new pop bumper leds
Install new ramp - I'm surprised how easy that'll be.
Replace all coil sleeves
See if I can adjust the swamp shute. Its ejecting the ball damn near to the tip of the right flipper. The welds appear to be intact.
Rebuild book case and add graphics - try to figure out how the shims work as it's not level.
Add graphics to things box

#3201 6 months ago
Quoted from Brootull:

So the previous owner installed LED’s and some of the bulbs, particularly the lights on the vault, are always lit whether they are supposed to be on or not. It’s rather faint but they are on nonetheless. Anyone know the cause and is there a fix?

It's called ghosting. I have the same issue happening on a TAF I just got in. I'm curious what rom version you're running? For the record every machine I've put LEDs in I've installed GIOCD and LEDOCD boards. I suspect this one will also get them.

#3205 6 months ago
Quoted from mjenison:

Can't you also install a non-ghosting ROM instead?

There was a guy ~7 years ago who was patching ROMS for LED use but good old Wayne-o and his ego sent the guy a cease and desist and that was that. You might be able to post on https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/rec.games.pinball and ask if someone will email it to you.

Anyway, about using LED's - they look like garbage (that patch won't fix that). I don't care if you use ghost busters or not, they are sharp and unnatural. The GIOCD and OCDLED boards are designed to use non ghosting bulbs which are cheaper and they smooth out the lights so they act like incandescent bulbs. And for the record they are IMHO mandatory for some games like Funhouse to keep certain light dimming features.

#3206 6 months ago

Another shameless bump for a Thing Lamp board - c'mon guys someone has to have one they want to sell?!

#3215 6 months ago

Well,apparently no one wants to sell a thing lamp board so I decided I'm going to make my own.
Used a freeware program called dip trace. I designed with the intentions of allowing the board to sit flat against the speaker mount with no light bleed (and since LED's don't get all that hot) and will use original mounting holes. I've got a few emails out now to see how much getting the PCB is going to cost.
thing1 (resized).PNGthing2 (resized).PNG

#3220 6 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Switch to a couple SMDs per letter, and then check out MacroFab that can do the assembly and all with it.

I'll have to double check but IIRC I did originally attempt to go with SMD but diptrace didnt have an option for it. I'll have to revisit that tonight. Not that it's a big deal but I also noticed I used Diode instead of resistor. I was so focused on recreating the board... lol so I changed that an rearranged a few of the traces. Still a WIP.
Im pretty anal so once I'm sure I've got the right stuff I very well make up a few more and offer for sale. Price unknown.... which will be the deciding factor.

#3225 6 months ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

CLEllison - Not trying to be negative, but you won't be able to do that board for under $40 - which you can already buy that solution here: http://pin-mods.com/product/taf-thing-light-board/ [EDIT - Didn't notice they were out of stock - but may be worth an email to see if they have parts]
Additionally - if you do move forward you'll need to "remote mount" the connection in order to keep the board as low profile as possible if you want to use it with ColorDMD. See the picture from the link. Another solution would be to make the board longer and have the connection come out the end by the right speaker, which is closer to where it gets plugged in.

The beauty of it is, if I sell em it will be a build it yourself kit. Want to use COLORDMD? Great! Don't install the header on the board and direct solder the wires into the board.

#3233 6 months ago

If you folks think there's a market for a thing board with a relocated header I can do that.
What I've found is that it's more expensive than what I was hoping for/expecting. Probably looking at ~$110 shipped. Does that dissuade anyone? Being cheap, after spending $400 for a new display I personally wouldn't feel inclined to dump another $100.

#3235 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think it's a $35-$45 item.
There's got to be a short run manufacturer that can do it cheaply.

Everyone please be patient I hope to have a working model in hand for testing within a couple weeks. I

Have you personally made any boards before? I would be interested in your cheaper sources
; ) The "cheaper" sources are in China and have a minimum order of 5. Again, price at this point is pure speculation and I refuse to order more than one as an engineering sample.
You also need to consider the size (likely going to be 15" ) adding cost to both product and shipping. Not to mention having to make a cable. If there's no interest that's fine, but my time is also worth something.
If a person is willing to spend $120 on a fester mod I would think spending less on something that also lights up would make sense too lol

#3241 6 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

my future son in law uses this place...says the boards are very reasonable...jlcpcb.com and easyeda.com to design the boards...

Thank you, will look into it.

#3251 6 months ago
Quoted from Brootull:

I can't seem to get the image to scale correctly. Anyone have some tips?[quoted image]

Likely scale to fit setting in advanced printer settings. If its enabled then disable. If it's disabled enable it. One of the two should work.

#3252 6 months ago

Thought I'd share and pass the savings on to my fellow TAF enthusiasts. I'm notoriously cheap and I absolutely cringe at the prices "some" people are charging for some of the mods. I realize they need to make money but .............

The vault mod typically goes for ~$50. Did you know this is just a 1/24 scale pencil sharpener?
This can be had for under $7 shipped amazon.com link »
Buy yourself a $5 role of outdoor double sided tape to anchor it down
amazon.com link »
You see the lighted vault selling for almost $200? Just wow. Drill a hole in the rear of the vault, put in place a #44 pinch light socket held in place by a generous amount of gorilla glue. Solder on a couple alligator clips and attach to the vault light. Total cost ~$20

The knight mod "I think" is really cool but is it ~$45-$55 cool? No.
Is it $24.95 cool? YES! https://www.coinoppartsetc.com/product/parts-sale-pinball-machine-parts/addams-family-pinball-machine-game-modification-silver
USe some of that awesome double sided outdoor tape you purchased earlier to anchor it down.

Candlestick phone mod - typically $~40-$50.
How about typically under $7? amazon.com link »
Don't like the bronze hit it with a light dusting of black rattle can.

I DO want the fester mod ... not the plastic model I see being offered (that breaks quite often from what I've read) but the rubber one. If anyone has a line on one for less than the $80-$120 mark I would love know where from otherwise I'm going to have to bite the bullet.

Added 175 days ago:

The bear rug mod -typically ~ $60 PLUS dollars.
How about $15 do it yourselfer?!
It is actually Playmobil Bearskin (Dark) Rug Bear Skin. For whatever reason they are found over in the UK on eBay. Playmobil itself out of stock. You need to paint the bear white and paint the nose, eyes and ears black.
For another ~$5.00 you add the EL Wire mod for the eyes - drill holes and run wire.

#3254 6 months ago

Decided to install the Tilt graphics bookcase decals today. Not impressed honestly. I had to run around the whole thing with an exacto blade. The bookcase decal itself is terrible on several levels. I'll spare the details but I am going to email them my grievances and suggestions on how to make it better.
Glad I had crank arms on hand. Wowser they were just brittle.
Also annoying me was the bookcase was not level. I installed 2 shims. Looked like I was good to go. Nope. As soon as I started to tighten down the white nut the whole assembly tilted forward making the front low and the back high. Unreal. Loosen the nut everything's level. Luckily I had a flat of 1/16" aluminum which was EXACTLY what I needed. Made a shim, added the shim, tightened it down and now it's perfect. It took 2 factory shims stacked on the left and one shim on the bottom to make this dumb thing level.
20190824_175216 (resized).jpg

#3257 6 months ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

Stop Talking shit good old wayne sold the license almost 10 years ago, I think you mean Planetary Pinball

Actually it happened while Wayne still held the IP license. Here's a snickers bar

Quoted from kermit24:

Does anyone know where I can get a ball guide that goes underneath the upper right flipper? Marco has it listed as unavailable, can't find it anywhere else. I am almost done with a playfield swap, and my game had a guide wire there instead. Don't really want to make any new holes.[quoted image]

Call Marco and ask then when/if they expect a new shipment. If they arent getting them anymore you'll need to fab your own. I believe some where in this monstrous thread someone shot pictures and measurements. Have a local metal fab shop make you one.

#3259 6 months ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Got a couple pictures from a friend that is at the pin museum in pigeon forge TN. While looking at the pictures i noticed a ramp protector that protects the corner of the ramp. Is this something that was factory installed or is this a after market part. What im getting at is that i want one if anybody knows where to get one
[quoted image]

No idea who made that. You could ask Cliffy to make one... he'd do it I'm sure. Honestly, I feel like these old ramps are brittle and not worth sinking money into. The new ones from starship fantasy are thicker and probably wont benefit from a protector anyway. I'd venture a guess that the brunt of the majority of the shots is taken by the ramp entrance protectors thus slowing the ball down and removing most of the inertia hitting that area anyway.

#3266 6 months ago

Need some advice.
I went through and rebuilt all the flippers. I mean EVERY part of these are new minus the actual mount. EOS are adjusted properly and I also installed new flipper leafs (also adjusted properly). It seems I'm getting random weak/short flips on both sides. Is this type of behavior indicative of the fliptronics board?

Also, thing is not returning the ball sometimes. I've pulled the metal box and there's no dent/s. Now here's the really weird part. I can hear the coil try to kick. Usually will attempt two kicks and then I have to lift the playfield to and jar it to get the ball to feed. I kind of feel like there's something else going on here. It's obviously making it to the coil switch. Is it possible the ball is somehow getting kicked back into the box or?

#3268 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sounds like a low power scenario.
Either wall power is low or something is not up to par on the power section.
Faulty cap or bad bridge?
Maybe a bad thermistor or varistor in the power box, maybe a bad 30 year old line filter?
Check the wall voltage first.

Thanks I'll look into those things.

Speaking of THING, I've looked at so many pictures and found the THING flipper is adjusted differently. Some have it at rest against the guide rail while others have the rubbered flipper gapped from the rail. I currently have mine resting on the rail and more often than not when not using the flipper the ball will hit a ball guide and bounce to the outlane. The guides aren't bent and the table is level. Leads me to believe gapping is how it was meant to be. Confirm please.

#3270 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Following the rail but even with it, not touching it.

Thank you sir!

#3274 5 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

When I bought my restored TAF the Thing flipper was gapped slightly away from the rail. I thought it was wrong but the other two flippers are aligned perfectly and the restorer's attention to detail makes me think it wouldn't have been an oversight.
When not using the flipper the ball consistently goes down the 2 bear kicks lane, which works nicely.
I'm tempted to re-align it but I don't want my TAF ending up like this one:

That is EXACTLY what mine was doing. Aligning with the gap solved the problem.

#3275 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Just picked up a TAFG and could use some advice on how to best install the pin blades I have for the game? I also have the felt strips that go down the side of the play field but looking at the setup, it looks like I need to fully remove the play field. Am I wrong or is there a tip/trick?

The most feasible way to do the decals while the pf is installed is the wet method. Personally I hate using the wet method for graphics but for this setup it does make sense to do so. Take off the protective backing and shoot the hell out of it with Windex. This allows you to slide and re position the artwork around until you get it where you want it. Once applied then using a paper towel/cloth add some pressure to the decal and attempt to squeeze dry the decal.

#3277 5 months ago

Got around to testing voltages today. The wall outlet voltage is good. Checked 3 prong plug and that's in good shape as well.
TP1 (+12v unregulated): 14.3
TP2 (+5v): 4.93 (surprised I'm not experiencing resets need to investigate that one of these days)
TP3 (+12v regulated): 12.03

I did take a business card and go between all the new contacts for flipper leafs and EOS's and also reseated all cables/connectors. I haven't had any weird flipper stuff happening since but I swear the lower right hand flipper is weaker than the rest. As previously stated everything is brand new on these flippers. EOS is adjusted correctly as well. After doing some research I see it mentioned a few times that the LM338 chip can cause flipper weakness. At this point I'm starting to look that way. Thoughts?

#3279 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Bad/dirty coil sleeve.
Slight mushrooming in the plunger causing a slight stickiness.
Weak return spring causing flipper bounce, resulting in weak responsiveness.
Sticky cabinet button causing slow response etc..

Hi and thank you for your assistance. Everything on your list (including buttons and cabinet leaf switches are 100% brand new.
I should also mention the plunger and/or link is not binding. The flipper also has a small amount of up/down movement (all flipper bats are brand new as well.

This has just got to be board related but where/what?

#3281 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

So you have fliptronics 1
Since you have flipper leaf switches.
If everything is new, I'd look for a connectivity issue.
Switch gap?
Loose contact on leaf?
Anemic contact in the harness?
Weirdness in the fliptronics board?
Lm339 or ba10339 chips go bad.
They are known to cause weakness.
Even corroded fuse holders cause intermittant weakness, though rare.

Leafs switches are new, adjusted and the connector is soldered solid. I'll check for any corrosion though. I should mention the flipper was weak before the rebuild as well. I think I'll order a rotten dog fliptronics board. If it doesnt fix it itll be good to have a spare on hand anyway.

#3285 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Okay so in the process of swapping out for all LEDs and I'm looking for someone to explain to me why I'd want to invest in an OCDLED and OCDGI board set? I don't see anything "wrong" with the LEDs at this point? Am I missing something?

Hi Jeff. I am a FIRM believer in using BOTH these boards. I'll admit I am very anal, however the WHOLE point of these boards is:
1.) to mitigate/eliminate the sharpness that is inherit of the LED bulb. They'll act like incandescents instead.
2.) Remove led ghosting
3.) Allow the game lighting to act normal in certain games. Example funhouse lights dim during a certain mode. Without this board they're on full blast.
4.) Ability to custom program an individual bulb

I just bought a TAF with LEDs. I freaking hate it. Just a super sharp on/off seizure inducing mess. All my other machines use the LED boards and they are awesome to play. I will absolutely be installing boards into this one as well. Herg is the man!

#3288 5 months ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Don't your GI LEDs flicker during Seance mode? I think the GI OCD would be the only thing (if anything) you need, if you want all the modes to function with the lighting effects as intended.

GREAT CALL! My gawd is that mode just seizure inducing with LEDs. I literally cringe when that mode comes up. I

Quoted from jeffro01:

Interesting... Would it be possible for you to somehow make a before/after video? I've seen some for other games but nothing for Addams unless I've simply missed it...

Basically any video of a machine running before and after will give you the full picture.
Title is more or less irrelevant. Again, I dont have these boards on my TAF "yet" and dont much feel like jockeying the boards between pins The best way to describe the difference it makes is takes an LEDs on/off nature and turns it into on/fade to off.

#3296 5 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Here is my TAF with GI and LED OCD. Not the best video I'm afraid, but gives you a sense of what it does. It basically makes LEDs work like incandescent bulbs, or like the bulbs in newer machines.

(sorry for the vertical video)

Great video! Thanks for doing that. People really dont understand just how crappy LEDs look and act without Hergs boards.

#3303 5 months ago

How to make thing your “own” thing. A tut for the cheap folks

I tried printing the thing graphics available in this thread and it simply WILL NOT print to the correct size. Since this site won’t allow anything other than pictures to be posted (you’ll see what I mean later) I am going to tell/show you exactly how to get this done. I also cover where I screwed up so you don’t have to repeat my mistakes. And for those that ask why I don’t offer to email instead – people disappear/die. This way the work lives on forever.

Things used in this project: (See what I did there?)

Color printer, vinyl adhesive paper, exacto blade, Thing box artwork from here, Microsoft snippet, Microsoft Word 2016, household cutting board and a little imagination.

Download the graphic from here:


Now open the picture you just downloaded full screen and start Microsoft Snippet. You will want to as accurately as possible trace each individual item and save all 4 pieces as a .PNG file. Try NOT to get any outer “white” when you snip. What you put in is what you get. One at a time open BOTH side pictures and whatever default app they open with should allow you to rotate them 90 degrees. Save the changes.

QUICK NOTE: For the record the attached pictures show my photo customization against a person who sells these decals and the original picture on this site. The colors of mine are much richer, define lines in the leather better and the sheen of the vinyl paper I used is much glossier. Very happy with the end result!

Open Microsoft Word. Instructions provided may have different options/locations due to versions. Start a new blank document. (If you don’t have word then do it at your place of employment.) Open file explorer and browse to where you just saved those 4 photos. Hold down your CTRL key and one by one click each photo. Ensure you choose then in this order (side, side,top,front). Once they are all highlighted, left click one of the photos and keep your clicker down. Move your mouse downward. You’ll see the photos coming with your mouse. Position your mouse over Microsoft Word at the bottom of your screen and let your clicker go. The photos will be imported into your blank document. You’ll likely notice that you now have 2 pages instead of one. It’s OK we’re going to fix that right now. For each photo you are now going to have to set the dimensional parameters.

NOTE: For ALL photos ensure under the scale section that checkmarks are REMOVED from “lock aspect ratio” and “Relative to original picture size”.

Right click side picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 0.78” x Width Absolute 4.45”. Click OK

Right click other side picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 0.78” x Width Absolute 4.45”. Click OK

Right click TOP picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 3.77” x Width Absolute 3.95” – Click OK

Right click FRONT picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 1.27” x Width Absolute 3.95” – Click OK

Now all photos are on one page. To create gaps in between each photo simply click at the bottom right of the photo. You'll see a blinking cursor bar. Just press enter until you have the gap you want. SAVE your document. While the picture sown shows the gaps fairly minimal use as much as you can between the pictures that keeps everything on one page.

It’s time to reap the fruits of your labor! Let’s print this bad boy. The vinyl gloss paper is sticky. REMOVE ALL current paper in printer tray and insert one sheet glossy side down. DO NOT OVERUSE your printer tray alignment tools to “snug up” the paper alignment. Have it sitting flush against the right edge of the tray and gently resting as far forward in the tray as you can. This paper is finicky.

Go ahead and select print. This part is a little grey area as most printer driver options will look different. Some offer certain options that others either don’t or the options are just located/buried some where else. Attempt to replicate my printer settings shown in the pictures. I do suggest you run a test print choosing black ink/gray scale to see if things print correctly. No sense of wasting ink (ask me how I know). When printing is done let her sit for 15 minutes or so. You may choose to use a rattle can clear coat or a self-adhesive laminate sheet. I chose neither originally and found the ink is so easily marred up I'm going to go buy some self-adhesive laminate. Apply it, cut around decals and then apply. Heed my advice

IF you did it right, you should have a beautiful printout laying in front of you. Since most of us don’t have a machine that we can use to scan and cut for us we’ll have to do it by hand. The vinyl material is easily marred, whatever you use for straight edge – ALWAYS lift it up when you move it. Picture showing circled items in blue is showing how I marred the ink and I how also slipped with the knife and scraped the decal. I use a standard plastic household cutting board to cut the decal on. Using any straight edge item you’ll want to align the straight edge to the VERY outer edge of the picture. I suggest you choose a couple spots to test blade depth cut/strength first. You’ll “feel” the blade actually cutting into the paper. The idea is to cut the vinyl and not the paper – which sounds easier than what it really is because the vinyl I used is super thin but did so to ensure no feeding issues through the printer. With your exacto blade (fresh blade of course!) you’ll now cut a line from one side all the way to the other. KEEP THE BLADE STRAIGHT. Cutting at an angle can result in ink damage. Wipe your blade after every cut. A small amount of debris on the blade can cause an ill cut and when you attempt to peel it off it WILL deal you grief. You'll literally feel a difference in blade cutting if you have a chunk of glue get in the way. Cut it again!In the attached photos I show I have cut everything possible so the excess (white unprinted areas) can be peeled off first. Start peeling the excess vinyl off. Peel at an angle where you are pulling the vinyl away from the decal. This is where you find out how badly you suck at cutting things. When you reach the edge of your photo and it appears to be coming up STOP! Put your exacto blade tip in the cut line of the outer cut and follow it back to the graphic pressing down harder. You’re going to likely have to do this more than you care too. The vinyl should easily pull away from the graphic. If it doesn't DO NOT PULL the vinyl. This will distort the graphic piece. (Ask me how I know)

Now it’s not mandatory for you to paint Things box – but c’mon now – you just went through all of this and you’re going to get lazy? Lightly sand the box to rough it up, wipe it down clean so the black rattle can paint has something better to adhere to.

Lastly – to apply the decals. Use the tip of your exacto blade to lift the decal away from the backing so you can get a hold of it. These things are THIN and SUPER sticky. Likely a one chance type of ordeal if you use the dry method. You can shoot Things box with Windex and lay the decal down. When you are satisfied with its location then place a paper towel over the decal and press down gently attempting to squeeze any liquid from underneath and absorb on the paper towel. As a test I sprayed Windex on top of the decal and wiped. Yes, the ink did in fact slightly come off but the effect is was actually kind of cool!
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20190906_104553 (resized).jpg

#3305 5 months ago

Reporting back on the weak lower right flipper issue I was seeking help with.
Recap, every flipper and its associated playfield lower playfield part was replaced with all brand new parts and properly adjusted. Original problem still existed.
I just recieved the Rotten Dog fliptronics board. After installation and playing 10 games I'm happy to report the lower right hand flipper is indeed as strong as the rest now.
I hate when people don't report their fix/resolve.

20190907_184031 (resized).jpg
#3317 5 months ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

How easy is it to do all of that ... and mail it to me? Haha

Less than an hour from start to finish. I just tried to idiot proof it

#3318 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Yeah, it's more so whether or not I go with ghosting or non-ghosting... I have an email out to PinballBulbs who provided the kit I'm working off of to find out if they ship ghosting or non-ghosting LEDs. That'll help with my decision making...

With all due respect, the "kind" of bulb you get shouldn't matter. The OCD boards do remove ghosting but the real selling point is getting rid of the sharp on/off nature and allowing natural fade. All I can say is DO NOT buy these boards if you have more than one pin. You'll seriously hate LEDs without it.

#3322 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

According to the manufacturer, it does. They clearly outline on their website the differences in control they have with ghosting vs non-ghosting LEDs. Based on their guidance, while non-ghosting will work, for maximum compatibility and control it's pretty clear I want LEDs that ghost. Is it a huge difference? Probably not. After seeing Seance mode the other night and almost having a seizure I can appreciate the need for the boards but I'm trying to balance it all since I already have this complete kit.

What I meant to convey (and poorly did so apparently) is regardless of bulb type, the board is capable of altering an LEDs inherit sharp nature. Nothing further meant. Herg is a super cool guy. Drop him an email and ask him your questions. Hear it from the horses mouth and then decide.

#3325 5 months ago
Quoted from Bronty:

I'm not much of a player compared to most of you guys but I had my best game ever @ 1.2b Doubled my previous high score!

That's almost 3x my highscore on 3 ball. I'd say that's damn impressive!

1 week later
#3332 5 months ago

I contacted a mod asking about allowing me to attach a document and the answer was no. However he did mention PDF's are OK, I had no idea. So I just printed the DOC as an 8.5 x 11 PDF and "should" be print ready. Feel free to give it a whirl.

1 week later
#3337 4 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

I came up with a "new" Fester mod if you will (granted I haven't seen this before but that doesn't mean someone else hasn't done it)

Nice job, I very much like that more than the EL wire mod. I sincerely wish these mod suppliers of Fester would drop their freaking prices though. My chair sits empty just out of principal

#3338 4 months ago

Searched and came up empty - I'm having a stuck ball issue right behind the vault against the rail. Only happens when a super weak shot occurs but it is a B***H to get it to roll back into play. Anyone else deal with this and is there a fix? I believe I'm running ~ 6.5 degree angle on the pf.

#3345 4 months ago

I'm making a harness for a thing lamp board and I'm severely confused. According to the lamp matrix in the manual, it states the thing lamp board matrix is run off header J133 but every picture I find (back box pictures on the internet) it looks like it's plugged into J134? On my machine J133 is open and J134 has a connector with one wire in it which every picture I've looked at on the internet shows this connector on J133 and not J134?
Can someone please clarify and show a pic if possible?

Second problem. Thing lamp board has a a ground pin and from what I see in pictures it's a yellow and (gray?) stripe. Since I can't tell what color that is does that go to J138 pin 9 or J137 and what pin? Right now my J137 has no connector.


#3346 4 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

I'm making a harness for a thing lamp board and I'm severely confused. According to the lamp matrix in the manual, it states the thing lamp board matrix is run off header J133 but every picture I find (back box pictures on the internet) it looks like it's plugged into J134? On my machine J133 is open and J134 has a connector with one wire in it which every picture I've looked at on the internet shows this connector on J133 and not J134?
Can someone please clarify and show a pic if possible?
Second problem. Thing lamp board has a a ground pin and from what I see in pictures it's a yellow and (gray?) stripe. Since I can't tell what color that is does that go to J138 pin 9 or J137 and what pin? Right now my J137 has no connector.

I finally found a decent pic of a driver board. Aye yai yai. The previous owner really did a number on this machine. Apparently where J138 is currently plugged into is supposed to actually be plugged into J137 (which dumb luck I had ordered 2 9 pin .156 connectors). J138 pin 9 is where the thing lamp board yellow/grey wire is supposed to connect too. Figured I'd post this for the next poor sap who buys an Addams where someone removed the lamp board, lost the cable and plugged things in wrong lol. The thing lamp board is alive!

#3348 4 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

FYI - According to the schematics J133, J134, J135 are identical, so no difference which you use, which explains why those are keyed the same. I have found several adjacent connectors on WPC power driver and CPU boards are like that. (room to grow or alternatives if the pins are bad)
Shown on the 6th page...
Same applies to J138/J138 - identical. (same page)

That's interesting. Thank you for the reply. I wish I wouldve known that before hand and just punched the ground wire into the existing connector on pin 9 on J138 instead of using a separate connector on J137 for one wire. Wonder why they did that? Seems like a toral waste of time and money.

#3351 4 months ago

I would imagine both versions are the same in this regard. Look at the lamp matrix in the manual.

#3364 4 months ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

Any stop sign or tombstone mods out for Addams?

They're typically model train items.

#3372 4 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Would i be stupid trading my Addams Gold #924 for a POTC CE? Even trade.

Only time will tell the tale if that game actually holds/ increases in value. IMHO TAFG are a status symbol more than anything. You can literally make a standard TAF (minus engraved plate) look and play like a TAFG. So if that plate means that much to you then dont do it
I'd make damn sure that doesnt have the infamous mirco crap clear coat though. If it does I'd make the seller file a claim and get a new pf.

#3375 4 months ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Went back to the maker station to redo this wagon mod.[quoted image]

There's just something about the angle of this mod I dont like. If you're able to 3d print, I think what would look fantastic is a flat sign with the edges having a protruding frame to be painted purple, the inner frame wood looking like the chair with the word thing cut out and a diffuser shield glued on back. Then doubling up the colors (stacking ontop of each other) so the sign becomes equally lit. If you think you could print one I'd gladly pay ya. Hit me up if youd like me to supply a rough draft of what I'm talking about.

#3376 4 months ago

Btw, life has taken me away from making an aftermarket thing lamp board. I was able to find one overseas that was missing the cable and considering I already had a .100 and .156 punch down tool on hand I was able to complete my machine. I've been focusing on some "me time" actually playing my games. If/when time allows me to get back to finishing up the board I will. I have faced some challenges with the software I use not having the correct templates available for the parts. Originally I planned on using some 5050 LEDs and moving the connector all the way to the right but then on a single layer board there's not enough green space to run all the traces so then you end up with a multi layer board once again driving up prices. Lets face it, people aren't willing to pay a whole lot for em so keeping it cheap, somewhat original and supplied as a kit that you'd assemble is probably the way to go to keep the price down. Maybe even offer assembled if someone is willing to pay me for my time. Also, this way those who have a color display can solder the header wires instead of having to desolder the header first.

1 week later
#3383 4 months ago

Honest opinions/ideas welcome. I've been wanting to come up with a decorative mod for the thing ramp lights. I do like what the wagon represents so I took a still shot of the scene where thing is pulling his wagon, then used some tools to cleanup/delete everything around the wagon and lastly enhanced the colors a tad.
The more I look at this the more I'm not sure if this really fits the overall theme of the pin? All artwork is "cartoony" and this is real life (so to speak).
If I go through with this, I plan on printing this on wet slide material (so the background will be clear) and sticking it to a 3" x 2.5" piece of plex, and then the current piece of plex that holds the bulbs - bending the extra portion protruding in front of the lights down. And then using that flat piece of the piex to mount the new artwork plex to with rivets. Hope that makes sense. Added benefit it'll stabilize the lights and stop em from ever falling out or losing connection

I dunno - how do you guys feel about this? yay or nay?

thingwagon (resized).PNG
#3385 4 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Once you zoom way out, it looks fine. I prefer it to the wagon posted above. One of the cool things about pinball is the uniquie mods we make for ourselves. Go for it!

Thanks. I also like it better than the toy wagon. I'm still in the process of cleaning the image up, but I stopped due to not being sure if this will look right. Keep in mind you're also viewing at at a much lower resolution than what would actually be printed at. It'll definently look cleaner.
I also wonder if the actual wagon could be 3D (or should I day 2D?) printed and then painted.
Other opinions / ideas welcome!

1 week later
#3394 3 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Just curious as I hope I didn't miss it in the thread from my searching but do any of you have any sort of protector on the "Thing hole"? (not sure how to describe it but the place where the ball sits for Thing to pick it up) I don't see a Cliffy for it and mine is showing a very small amount of wear around the hole from general use which seems to be common. Anything I should think about doing there?

Great question and I'd like confirmation on my thoughts as to why there's not a Cliffy.
Most of the time when I shoot the thing ramp the ball gets super slowed down. At first I thought the switch was gummed up and replaced it and that didn't allow the ball to get to the cup any quicker. I would assume this is normal behaviour and if so adding a cliffy would potentially add a "lip" that the ball wouldnt be able to get over therefore being stuck.

1 week later
#3397 3 months ago
Quoted from cconway84:

Excited to finally join the club! Found a local machine in terrific shape. Playfield tear down for cleaning / metal polishing and rebuilt with a color dmd, comet leds, titan rubber, new bookshelf, electric chair and thing kicker scoops. Trim is a beautiful antique gold.
Next up will be a ocd led board.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

First time I've seen a reimported TAFG. Very cool CONGRATS!

1 week later
4 weeks later
#3450 63 days ago
Quoted from MintIndeed:

My wife and I just got a TAF machine, and it's been tons of fun.
The shooter feels a little...soggy, so we're thinking we'll replace the spring. Any suggestions on the spring tension? I'm very new to this.

You'll want to download the manual and everything is displayed there.

Page 60/124

#3470 60 days ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Well my third Addams Family restoration is complete. I’m actually taking this Restored Addams Family to the local brewery for route. I want everyone around here to enjoy as much as I enjoyed putting it together.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How much money do you have into that and how long is it going to take to pay it off? You're awesome for doing this, but no way in hell would I restore a TAF to that degree and put it on route. That title even if in pretty rough shape still commands coin if it plays well.

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