(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome

By mima

10 years ago


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Post #5184 Use bayonet lamp socket for chair bulbs. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #5197 Pictures of using bayonet holders for chair bulbs. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)


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#797 7 years ago

I recently picked up a couple TAF's. One is fairly nice. The other....well....here's the bookcase.

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

2 weeks later
#886 7 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Wow that is crazy how those bulbs got in there! Ok let me ask you this....There are a lot of wires and componets all around the box. Do I have to remove anything around the box to remove the box? Thanks for your help!

Nope. 2 screws and it slips up and out.

#927 7 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok got it. The pivot bushings is the baracket(s) where the PF sits and pivots on correct?

The part of the apron the ball is resting on is separate from the main apron. Remove the apron and you'll see its held in place by two screws. Loosen them and move it as far to the right as you can. There is some play. As others have said, adjust the two fingers on that piece as well, until the ball is centered in the shooter lane.

#938 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The backbox originally had 7 of the 455 blinker bulbs.
The 455 blinker is not a managed flasher and just blinks randomly.
In the link below from the IPDB, the bulbs that are unlit are the 455 blinkers.
Sadly the 455 blinkers are no longer in manufacture. Regular bulbs were put in to replace the blinkers as they wore out.
455 blinkers do exist but the supply is very limited and they can be very expensive.
One can however upgrade the sockets to the wedge style and use the newer 545 blinkers in the same circuit.
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=32946&zoom=1

You can also get them from Terry at Pinball Life.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=30

#950 7 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

My question is: Is a 44 bulb comatible with the 455 socket?

Yes. The 44 won't blink though.

#986 7 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Random question here, guys, and maybe I missed it in the thread here. When it comes time to swap out all 5 pop bumper caps - the white one in particular - where do you get one that specific? Do you just order a regular one and modify it, or is there a place that has it "pre-modded" and ready?
Just curious - thanks!

Most of the usual vendors carry the cut clear one.

1 week later
#1025 7 years ago
Quoted from Bryno:

Oh and I only have a Honda S2000 Roadster so would need to borrow a truck!
He may be able to ship. I reckon £85 quid should cover that, but then I don't get to see it in person.. decisions, decisions.. Ha.

You could do that trip in a day. Take a buddy with and the time will go lots faster. If you don't know the seller, I'd really want to see the game in person.

1 month later
#1122 7 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Could somebody help me out?
I figured out the cause of my lamp matrix problem (single inserts triggering multiple others), it's the red lamp socket (lower one) by the vault. Everything is fine when the bulb is removed.
Problem has been there since I had the game.
Is this guy missing a diode, or perhaps are the wires incorrectly attached? A playfield swap was done so I presume this was a user error. Socket itself is fine and powers a bulb.
Many thanks!

Wiring looks correct, although the bottom sockets appears to have been replaced.

#1125 7 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Fellow Addamses - I just got done cleaning, scrubbing, rerouting wires, dusting, replacing rubbers, cleaning.. more cleaning.. of our TAF.
I also replaced the stock smoked ramp with the gorgeous clear one - everything looks great, but I am having a little trouble getting the 4 screws that hold down the ramp flaps to screw in. Is there some sort of prep work I have to do on the ramp beforehand? I've screwed them in thinking it was going to be an easy last step, and there is at least 1 or 2mm of clearance over the metal, where the screw head is up. I'm afraid to fire the game up for fear of the ball getting chipped! Any suggestions?

You need to ream the holes out so the screws sit lower. Take a drill bit the same size as the head of the screw and drill backwards. Yes, backwards. You'll then want to drill out the small through hole. You might want to take it out to do this.

#1126 7 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Thanks. Definitely appears to be. Any chance the grey one it was replaced with needs a diode? And these suckers appear to be riveted in there. Hmmm... I wonder if the plate that holds the sockets is available to be purchased with new sockets already attached. I can only find the piece without the sockets.

I'm a little confused. Both act like insert lamps and should have diodes. Not just the one socket but the other also. Looking at mine, I have no diodes on mine either.

You won't find the plastic for sale with the brackets and sockets attached. If you have the parts and want them replaced, you can send it to me and I'll do it for you, free of charge.

#1129 7 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

DAMN. IT. Obviously my first time doing this. Ok I do this with the drill set backwards, but I place the drill from the front side, yes? I'm not putting the drill on the underside of the ramp, right?

Top side. You want to bevel the hole so the screw sits flush with the top of the ramp. You can run the drill the correct way, but be extremely careful. Push too hard and it catches good, there goes your ramp. Running backwards simply melts in instead with no chance of catching.

2 weeks later
#1166 7 years ago
Quoted from loneacer:

I don't know. I think you're talking about the shims. Mine was missing both of those, but I ordered a couple to put on. The washers are on the third leg where the shims aren't supposed to go and are about twice the thickness of the shims. Seems that would do the exact opposite of what the shims are supposed to do.

The shims go wherever you need the shims to go to get the bookcase base level with the playfield. Sometimes I use one shim, sometimes two. Sometimes the shims are too thick and I'll use a thin washer or two. Sometimes I don't have to use anything.

1 week later
#1186 7 years ago

A simple image search on Google.

You're welcome.

http://pinballmod.com/product-tag/the-addams-family-pinball-mod/

#1188 7 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

LMAO! Thank you Bryan!

That'll be $50 please.

3 months later
#1351 7 years ago
Quoted from MrBellMan:

Hi All,
I'm looking for a $3,500-ish Addams Family.
It's a long shot I know, but this is what I have available to put towards a fixer-upper.
Please let me know if you know of one available. I'm in the SF Bay Area. I'll have shipped for the right deal.
Much appreciated!
Thx,
Rob Bell
CARGPB20
Robsgameroom.com
[email protected]

"Hehehe. You're a funny guy."

10 months later
#1829 6 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Anyone know where I can get the ramp flap metal? Didn’t realize the clear ramp from Mr. Pinball wouldn’t include them...

Pinrestore.com has it.

#1833 6 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

All I see there are rivets. I need the actual metal flaps.

Towards the bottom of the page. You'll have to cut it yourself.

http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

1 week later
#1865 6 years ago
Quoted from Parzival:

Much appreciated!!!

Every switch will be wired the same. Band on diode on the terminal nearest the actuator. Green in the center. Other end of diode along with white and whatever color stripe on the terminal opposite the actuator.

3 weeks later
#1932 6 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I thought it was getting a ball into the vault when the bookcase is closed.

It is. Happens totally by accident.

4 weeks later
#1972 6 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Put the nut on the underside of the playfield and tighten it. It will draw the screw down safely. You don’t need to hammer at all this way.

He's not pulling those down without tapering the top of the hole first. Simplest way is to use a drill bit the size of the head. Be careful.

4 weeks later
#2072 6 years ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

I agree with you %100, mine is not trashed but not good either and with the right skilled restorer would blow any remake away.

Keep in mind, most playfield restorers are so busy, they normally won't do one if a repro is available.

4 weeks later
#2146 5 years ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Can one of you guys take a picture of the wiring on the light back board. Mine is hacked to crap. And I want to rebuild the wire harness. Whoever owned the game before me staples in bayonet sockets and put 455 bulbs in.

020 (resized).JPG020 (resized).JPG

#2150 5 years ago
Quoted from PinZig:

Nope, that's how mine is wired as well. They are controlled lamps, not GI.

They're all GI. The bayonet sockets are meant to take 455 flasher lamps. They only came in that base at the time.

2 months later
#2257 5 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Ok let me get this straight. I complete like all the mansion stuff, I get to the question mark which takes me tour the mansion. I loose one freaking ball and the whole thing restarts all the way from the beginning?? Like ALL the way ??

Yup.

2 months later
#2441 5 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Some updates, making good and steady progress. Was meant to pick up decals on Saturday, get the cabinet done over the weekend and fit the playfield inside, but the bloke from whom I was meant to buy them says he will only do shipping, and is giving me a ridiculous shipping time for a domestic 200 mile journey. Might try a different source for the cabinet decals.

They don't get much better than these.

ebay.com link: ADDAMS FAMILY Screen Printed Cabinet Art Set PERFECT

#2446 5 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Look beautiful, but I'd have to pay customs plus VAT and shipping on top of the price :/ the ones from Ministry of Pinball are not bad, bought a few of them in the past and wasn't disappointed. If I had a magic lamp one of my wishes would probably be a set from Phoenix Arcade, heard they were better than the originals.

The ones on Ebay are Phoenix Arcade. I can't tell you how many sets of their decals I've used over the years.

#2448 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Bryan, what do you think about the mantis amusements replace parts?

I've use the 3 scoops and the hole protector so many times I've lost count. Never an issue whatsoever. I've not used the other TAF parts. If I had an issue with them, I'd contact Kerry and tell him what the issue is, otherwise, they'll never get corrected. Kerry would also not hesitate to refund your money is you wanted to send something back.

#2477 5 years ago
Quoted from fatality83:

Looking for anyone that has lit their swamps, vaults and chairs adding extra GI lighting.... I want to do this to mine and I see there is a mod you can buy that is basically plug and play, however I don't feel like spending $25 for a bulb, socket and two alligator clips. I would like to make my own. Unfortunately I cannot find any pictures of the actual mods that people sell so I can't see exactly how they made theirs.
I am assuming I would need a 44 bulb socket similar to the ones used for the GI in the game. I would need wire of course, and I am assuming a 4004 diode? Hook everything together and solder one wire to a nearby GI lug and solder the other wire to the other? Anyone that has done this mod, care to share any pictures?

That's pretty much it, although being GI, you don't need the diode. You can also use a wedge base socket.

3 months later
#2655 5 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

What can you rest the playfield on though after you've taken it off the hooks? Or are you on about taking it completely out of the cab?

I bought a cheap pillow. I've also seen some use real thick cushions.

I'm going to be shopping out a TAF in a day or two. I'll take pics.

#2657 5 years ago

You need to pull the playfield off the hooks. That allows you to pull it out. Just be careful and don’t pull too far or it’s going to end up in the bottom of your cabinet.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2712 5 years ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Installed the 3D maker thing wagon today! Pretty cool!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Oh my.

1 week later
#2726 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Interestingly, I believe that all of the 4 Cousin IT targets are just wired together and count as a single switch.

They are and they do.

1 week later
#2736 5 years ago
Quoted from Patentlaw:

I guess it could also be some type of misalignment between the pan and where the ball enters the solenoid.

This is normally the issue. The square hole in the pan, as you call it, and the square hole in the thing hand scoop have to align damn near perfectly for the ball to go from the pan to the scoop. I'd check screws and make sure things are tight and haven't gotten out of alignment.

#2738 5 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

How are you supposed to remove the Thing box? Is the hand mechanism atttached to the box, or the playfield?

The hand mech is attached to the playfield, not the box. There's a lip on the box that's held in place by a metal bracket fastened to the back of the playfield back board. Just remove the two screws and move the box up. You may have to use a little force.

#2763 5 years ago
Quoted from fatality83:

Can anyone verify this gate plunger and spring are hooked up right? My ball diverter gate developed some play in it. When the ball would hit it, it would move down some. I noticed there was a spring that was hanging in the end of the coil plunger but not attached to the diverter. I am pretty sure this is right but wanted to make sure
[quoted image]

That is where it goes but the end of your spring that attaches to the diverter appears bent. There also appears to be a large enough gap that it'll fall off again.

Here's what a new one should look like.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-13278

1 month later
#2911 5 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Is it purely there to stop a stray airball from potentially rolling behind the Thing box?
[quoted image]

It would appear so.

3 months later
#3145 4 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

speaking of which, the adhesive that comes with these seem inadequate at best, what are people using to glue these to whatever they're attached too? I used some 3m spray adhesive, seems to be holding for now...but if there is something better I'd like to know.

Contact cement.

4 months later
#3414 4 years ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

Been workin' on a few TAF assys. Got these Bookcase parts from a TAF that was in a fire. Rebuilt gearbox and other parts cleaned up OK.
Wally[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

YOU....are a rock star, Wally!

4 months later
5 months later
#3911 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The circuit is called general illumination or GI. Are the bulbs blown?

They're actually controlled lights. I forget when they light, though.

1 week later
#3938 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Trying to decide what mods I can do to make her look better.
[quoted image]

Sometimes they look better just left alone. While the rose shooter knob looks cute, it doesn't seem very practical in use.

1 month later
1 month later
#4058 3 years ago
Quoted from St0n3PiraT3:

I'm looking for the Flasher bulb locations for the back box.... Just the ones on the white board.... via a photo please? It appears that normal bulbs are in mine..... Please and thank you in advance!

You mean blinkers. They're the ones with a bayonet base.

1 week later
#4111 3 years ago
Quoted from MintIndeed:

On our game, the ramp coming out of the shooter lane is slightly misaligned or bent. This basically causes the ball to come out of the shooter lane and hit the area near the post by the VUK, leading to a skill shot every time. Not sure how to fix it, tho'.
You can see the misalignment in the first image, and a correctly-aligned game in the second image.
[quoted image][quoted image]

On the end of that ramp is a slotted mounting tab. It allows you to move the ramp left and right. It's underneath the phone plastic.

You may be able to push the plastic over enough to get to the screw. Otherwise, it's a pain to remove the plastic. You'll need a long skinny screwdriver or nut driver.

3 weeks later
#4143 3 years ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Put in a new back glass. What do you think?[quoted image]

I kinda like it.

Don't like the LED's though.

Sorry.

2 weeks later
#4164 3 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Has anyone on this group ordered a replacement cabinet from VIrtuaPin.net
Been toying with it as mine has its share of mileage
Has anyone bought one on here
If so any pics or review
Thanks

The last cabinet I got from them was a TAF. No pics but you will not be disappointed.

Paul makes them as close to original as you can get. No issues whatsoever and great quality!

1 month later
#4224 3 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I’ve read that you have to desolder the optos because the board is too big to fit through a hole?

It is too big. You can either unsolder the wires from the top opto board or you can remove the wires/pins from the connector on the other end.

2 weeks later
#4243 2 years ago
Quoted from cleanandlevel:

$12k for a lightly routed tAFG. what do yall think?

No.

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
7 months later
#4531 2 years ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Hey all
What’s the best source for cabinet decals these days?

https://www.phoenixarcade.com/product-category/the-addams-family

1 month later
#4651 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Use purple LEDs. Its really nice.

While purple will give the playfield an interesting hue, you may not want it looking like outer space.

I'd stick with whatever color you have in your GI.

1 month later
#4783 2 years ago
Quoted from rob3:

Has anyone installed the thing anti-trap and can possibly advise me on where it goes? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10655

Here ya go.

p002 (resized).jpgp002 (resized).jpg
2 months later
#4911 1 year ago

Working on a little experiment.

Top is original. Bottom two have been painted with automotive paint, scuff sanded, artwork printed and now need to be cleared.

TAF aprons (resized).jpegTAF aprons (resized).jpeg
#4914 1 year ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Artwork printed to the metal? Or a printed decal? It looks like printed to the metal, which is awesome.
Mine looks terrible with large, thick printed decals. I'd love to have something that looks more original.

It's direct print to the metal.

We're kicking around the idea of you sending us your apron, we strip it, powder coat it, print it and ship it back.

And unlike the original ink, this stuff will hold up to cleaners.

#4917 1 year ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

Maybe it is just the angle, but the bottom one looks like the font was bolded.
I really like the idea of getting a fresh apron. Roadshow owners will keep you really busy with all the ones that suffered the bubbling/rust.

Not the angle. The bottom one was the first print. The middle one was after adjustments and is about 95% there.

The bottom one was also misaligned.

1 week later
#4946 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Working on a little experiment.
Top is original. Bottom two have been painted with automotive paint, scuff sanded, artwork printed and now need to be cleared.
[quoted image]

Here's the end result after clearing.

They're beautiful but way too costly to do this way.

Lots cheaper to have them powder coated then printed and that's it.

Not sure where all this is going but we'll see.

0679C56B-7B65-4735-B9E7-40B3D4381ECB_1_105_c (resized).jpeg0679C56B-7B65-4735-B9E7-40B3D4381ECB_1_105_c (resized).jpegF25D7495-3C7F-4779-A4F4-2F1F5D7AECBE_1_105_c (resized).jpegF25D7495-3C7F-4779-A4F4-2F1F5D7AECBE_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
#4952 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Just a couple nit-picks... the bottom one looks better overall as it's better sized and centered but it's missing the copyright "C" logo, and they're both missing the dot in the "i" of "Family".
They do look great, though! Is it too expensive to do one at a time like this, is that what you mean? Would it be more feasible to do these in large batches like you were thinking?

Agreed on the nit picks. I didn't do these. The guy I'm doing a couple of TAF's for did them. The off centered one got bumped just before printing and there are still a couple fine adjustments to be made to get them closer to original. Would they have to be perfect? I would love them to be but people would buy them as is all day long.

I have a friend who owns a body shop that does the painting and clearing. He thought he'd need $150 to do just one and maybe closer to $100 if he did 5 or more. The cost of paint and clear has gone through the roof. And this is stripping, priming, painting and clearing. A powder coater will do these for $40 for say 5. Cheaper for more.

Then they need to be printed. Takes about 40 minutes to print one. They need to be printed twice. Not a lot of ink used but there's time involved. Let's say $50 for printing.

I wish I had all the equipment to do these, but I don't. I'm just the middle man. I don't do anything but run around with the parts.

So first they go to the body shop 15 minutes away. Then they get picked up and brought to the printer about 35 minutes away. Then they get picked up at the printer and brought back to the bodyshop for clearing. When done, I pick them up. Then they would have to be packed for shipping and dropped off at USPS, UPS, etc..

What's my time worth? I don't know. $50 per apron? Honestly, that's a ton of bullshit running around I'm not sure I want to do.

Ideally, these need to be made new by a company that can manufacture them, powder coat them (tons cheaper than painting and more durable) and print them. What would that cost? $75? Maybe $50? And don't forget 20% goes to Rick at Planetary Pinball for the license.

It seems Matt (Merfeldma) has the process and manufacturer down except the printing. I'm not quite sure why he's not moved forward with finding a printer. I will say, he has told me in the past, these need to be printed instead of screened. Way too many mistakes and waste made with the screening process.

#4954 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBitLife:

cant find any info on this error im getting. Its telling me to check switch 11 buy in.
When i hit start to buy it, it cancels it

Sounds like you have the gold roms installed in a standard game but no buy in button that came with the gold games.

#4958 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBitLife:

its a gold game collectors edition have the plate and cert

Is there a buy in button on the front right side?

#4962 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBitLife:

yes I am an idiot

I’m not going to argue.

1 month later
#5003 1 year ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Is there a good diagram of what posts go where on the playfield? Plastic and metal. I’m not seeing it in the manual. Maybe just have to review some hep builds

Here are a few.

p025 (resized).jpgp025 (resized).jpgp026 (resized).jpgp026 (resized).jpgp027 (resized).jpgp027 (resized).jpgp028 (resized).jpgp028 (resized).jpgp029 (resized).jpgp029 (resized).jpgp030 (resized).jpgp030 (resized).jpgp032 (resized).jpgp032 (resized).jpgp031 (resized).jpgp031 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#5018 1 year ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Leaf switch goes on the same side of the flange as the spoon.[quoted image]

And the coil is upside down.

#5028 1 year ago
Quoted from Shredder565:

Yep, one of the many things to do during cleanup .
first step is to purchase and install everything properly
Step one done, right side now. waiting for my nut bolt screws. and then will put them back with the switches installed. one more thing done. my extra part section is thankfully dwindling [quoted image]

As suggested earlier, you're going to want to cut the diodes off all the coils, except the flipper coils.

#5065 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Joe is right. You want the wire leads clear from other brackets, etc.

And of course there's so much more than that. Here's just one pic giving you the idea of where things need to go.

It's bad enough putting one of these things back together after having taken pictures. I can't imagine doing it without ever seeing the game.

pop010 (resized).jpgpop010 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#5090 1 year ago

I always staple the lamp leads first before everything else gets in the way.

Save things pics. They show your wire connections along with lead locations.

pop001 (resized).jpgpop001 (resized).jpgpop002 (resized).jpgpop002 (resized).jpgpop003 (resized).jpgpop003 (resized).jpgpop004 (resized).jpgpop004 (resized).jpgpop005 (resized).jpgpop005 (resized).jpgpop006 (resized).jpgpop006 (resized).jpgpop007 (resized).jpgpop007 (resized).jpgpop008 (resized).jpgpop008 (resized).jpgpop009 (resized).jpgpop009 (resized).jpgpop010 (resized).jpgpop010 (resized).jpgpop011 (resized).jpgpop011 (resized).jpg
4 months later
#5326 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Is there anyway to realign Thing ?
I just installed a new field and notice now a heavy binding with the hand and the wood of the field
I used the dimpled holes but assume they were not perfect
Any advise is great
Thanks

You also want to make sure you have the opto interrupter located correctly on the shaft or you can get the hand to move too far one way or the other.

#5332 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Anyone know how to shift the metal box over 1/4” clearance
Things binding up a touch
The box perfectly transfers the ball to kicker but not sure now to adjust it
Any guidance is greatly appreciated
[quoted image]

There's only two screws that hold the box in place and it's easy to move a slight bit one way or the other.

You may have to fill the screw holes once you find the correct location.

#5336 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

Sorry for hijacking the Q/A on this issue, but I'll be doing a playfield swap soon, and I noticed on my original playfield, these two screws were replaced at one point by previous owner with oversized wood screws that poked thru the top of playfield. What is the correct screw size/type to use here?
Thanks!

1/2” hex head like the ones that hold everything else in place.

1 week later
#5351 1 year ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

The tools are relative to the connector size which I posted. Marco has them. A quick search should turn them up.

Yup. Search for IDC punch. Pinball Life has them also.

#5367 1 year ago
Quoted from pinmister:

That may be hard trying to avoid scratching up new decals. Usually the process is backwards where you can take off rails before applying new decals. Now here is the deal-I am going to be replacing rails with new ones anyway(have a new set in box). Can I just pry them off from above with a little heat?-Go backwards?

If your game has new decals, you need to be very careful as some of the decal can come up when you remove the side rails. Trust me, the double sided tape is stuck to the decal, not the cabinet. The decal is stuck to the cabinet.

Take a new razor blade and make a cut as far up under the rails as you can. Then apply masking tape to protect the artwork. You can also get this under the rail a bit.

Use a stiff metal sharp putty knife to get under the rail. You'll actually be getting under the decal, not just the tape. When you're done, you'll have removed the side rail, the double sided tape and the decal under it.

I also find it easier to just use a new set of rails. It doesn't take much to bend the old ones.

3 weeks later
#5414 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Was doing some cleaning recently and noticed that my Thing hand has a bit of slack in it, meaning that it can move forward and back a bit regardless of position. Feels like it's slack in the gears or something similar.
Is this something that's adjustable?
Is there a screw/bolt loose somewhere that I can tighten?
Removing the Thing motor mech looks to be fairly straight-forward process, are there any hidden tricks or warnings if I need to do it?
Edit: Did just a quick bit of research... Looks like what might be happening is that one or both of the set screws on the rectangular linkage arms just outside the motor box might be loose. That's exactly how the hand is acting, as if there's too much slack between a set screw and the flat edge it's supposed to be locked down on. Should be an easy fix. Would still like any and all tips in regards to removing that motor box, if you've got some, though!

I think there's been play in every one I've ever dealt with. It's never been a big deal.

Removal of thing is simple. Two screws hold the box in place and four screws hold the mech in place.

#5439 1 year ago
Quoted from Williampinball:

Looking for a TAF that needs too be restored

Aren't we all.

1 week later
#5450 1 year ago
Quoted from Williampinball:

Does anyone know why some TAF has two trasformers in the base Cab

Got pics?

I've never seen that.

#5486 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

Can anyone tell me if this green padding under the ramp flaps is original, and where a replacement can be sourced? Thanks!
[quoted image]

It's nothing but double sided tape but if you're using a reproduction ramp, you don't need it.

#5488 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

Thanks! Yes using repro ramp. Assuming its not needed because the repo ramps are thicker?

yes

2 weeks later
#5553 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

I believe these are supposed to be double ring posts.

That would be correct and I've only ever seen clear on a TAF.

1 week later
#5597 1 year ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Any reason why you could think it was thrown in there besides the simple fact that is what whoever owned this game before me had on hand

It’s whatever they happened to have at the time.

Don’t overthink this shit!

#5604 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Shopping out a friends game, found this back by thing and can’t figure out where it goes. Can’t find it in the manual. Thank you!
[quoted image]

It's a protector for the switch on the top of the plastic ramp.

#5606 1 year ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

I posted this in the restoration section but also figured I throw this on here since it’s a TAF dedicated thread
I reached out to kstairmantis about a replacement (underside playfield) thing box for my TAF restoration, to which his response was, this is on his list but he has yet to make any. After brief back and forth I am going to send him mine so he can use as a template and also mentioned that I would throw something up here to see if there is genuine interest. I know its a minor detail but mine looks like crap all old and grey and will look even worse when I put all new stainless scoops into the game. I have seen Bryan_Kelly nickel plate this and the line box for KornFreak28 way back when he did his game for him but with the price of plating these days that's

I'd be all over that depending on price.

#5609 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I don’t think all games had them did they Bryan? May have been a later add to prevent ball hang ups.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10778

I want to say I've read it was added somewhere during production after they found out that switch could get beat up badly, so there may easily be games with out it.

#5617 1 year ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

What does this board do, looks like in the book it says it’s the 5 switch and diode board but what I don’t get is it’s attached to the lighting wire harness not the switch harness.
[quoted image]

I"d say it provides diodes for 3 controlled lamps on the playfield somewhere.

#5620 1 year ago
Quoted from Playdium:

"Thing" lights ??? When I start a game the "T-H-I" always light. Shouldn't this reset after each game?

You can set this in the adjustments.

I believe giving you those three is the factory setting.

1 week later
#5635 1 year ago

I always found them to be too thick.

I like to use smaller washers instead.

2 weeks later
#5649 11 months ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Have any of you used the clear plastic bumper bodies on your games. I am intrigued but wonder if it will spill all the light out instead of concentrating it through the bumper cap. What about the transparent skirts. I usually like to keep my games looking original as possible but not opposed to a slight upgrade here and there.

Whatever you do, don’t fuck it up! You only want to do those 5 pops once!

3 weeks later
#5777 11 months ago

Some of what you guys do to your TAF’s is sacrilegious!

This isn’t a my little pony!

LOL

#5782 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

In some cases "Rainbow Bright" !

It’s like fucking with a 69 Camaro!

You just don’t do that!

2 months later
#5939 8 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

What's the concensus on the cpr mirrored backglass.... Anyone have one, have thoughts? I've got a REALLY nice gold and the translite is a bit wavy.....it might flatten out but I figured maybe the move is to switch out to the CPR. Thoughts?

You'll like it.

1 week later
#5977 8 months ago
Quoted from TheBananaPeel69:

What are the chances of grabbing a project Addams cab and where do you think the best place to look for one would be?

Where are you located?

1 month later
#6036 7 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Forgot I had ordered unfinished legs and siderails 3 years ago. Figured now would be the time to maybe get "creative". I think gold should only be on the CE version. I think using a blue or purple to match the side arts colors would look kind of jenky.
Feel free to add suggestions.
1.) Gloss black (finger print hell)
2.) Semi gloss black with gold metal flake (not a CE version btw)
3.) Semi gloss black with purple metal flake
4.) Semi gloss black with silver metal flake
5.) Polished steel
6.) Order Lumalegz LOL

I prefer chrome on black.

687AA95B-C66A-4717-BF70-2727160CB455_1_105_c (resized).jpeg687AA95B-C66A-4717-BF70-2727160CB455_1_105_c (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#6172 6 months ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Sorry I meant is there a difference between the LED OCD boards and Hergs not if they were needed. Boards are a must from what I have been told and read throughout the site.

They're the same thing. They're just sold through Comet now.

1 week later
#6201 6 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

They used to be available everywhere. May have to look outside the country. Does Bryan know?

Alls ya gots to do is ask.

Got mine from Planetary. I prefer the smokey and it's cheaper.

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-03-8643

Also, you may want to trim the new decals before you put them on. They're too large and run into the curved part of the cloud. Look at your existing and you'll see what I mean.

2 weeks later
#6272 5 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Topper?:[quoted image]

No.

1 month later
#6302 4 months ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Bumping this question to try again.

I got mine from Planetary along with the topper and they look fine.

You may want to trim them before applying. They're a bit too large for the flat areas and will extend into the curved areas.

2 weeks later
#6333 4 months ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Pivots Drilled !!
Moving forward
Mounted the Speaker plate
Ground is started
Hope to get humpty back together this week but hoping for the best
[quoted image]

You've got the wrong pivot nuts. They should be 1/2".

2 weeks later
#6363 3 months ago
Quoted from Santis:

Hi. Can someone please post a pic from upper left flipper wires at the coil. Thank you.

057 2 (resized).JPG057 2 (resized).JPG
1 month later
#6434 69 days ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Hairdryer work?

Use compressed air in a can. Turn it upside down and spray one side of the decal. It will pop off. Keep spraying will you gently pull. Remove the glue with whatever you choose. I use Sprayway orange power.

#6452 66 days ago
Quoted from pinij93:

https://www.dystopicpinball.com/
From here the uncle fester is very good. Has other quality mods for addans family too

Any prices by chance?

2 weeks later
#6474 48 days ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Do any of you use the mantis chair hole protector? I recently installed one and it seems to be impacting the ability to eject the ball from the electric chair. Assuming it’s the heads from hex screws causing the issue. Anybody else experience similar issues. I was thinking about using a screw that would go flush with the screw holes in the bracket but worried about blowing through the top of the playfield

I just had a thought. The scoop may be mounted at just enough of an angle that the ball is hitting the edge of the protector when exiting.

Try this. Remove the chair, remove the balls and turn the game on. Now take a slo-mo video of one ball being dropped into the scoop. It will pop back out. When played back, you should be able to see where the ball goes. Adjust the scoop accordingly.

Other than that, it makes no sense. I've installed a couple dozen of these on TAF'a I've restored and never had an issue.

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