Hello everyone!

I'm not a member yet but hope to be soon. I am gathering parts and pieces in anticipation of restoring a project machine (That I do not yet own).

Does anyone have a source for the 2 5/8" switch bracket (01-9476-4) that is part of the ramp assembly? Marco has a listing but it has been out of stock for a long time https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9476-4 . Is there a way to modify/use the 2 1/4" switch bracket (01-9476-2) that is also a part of the ramp assembly? (Since it is shorter I would think not).

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide!

Im building the entire ramp assembly in anticipation of using it for a future restoration project. I am guessing that the type of machine I can afford (or one wife will let me afford) will likely be completely roached and need a new one. Plus it gives me something to tinker with

Thanks for the push in the right direction. I can definitely make this work

wallybgood Do you happen to have the crossover wire form/ramp that you might be willing to sell (any condition is fine)?

wallybgood or even the main ball guide? again...any condition...Thanks!

or any of the other NLA metal parts ...

I need to purchase a new topper. What does the group recommend Smoke or Clear and why? All opinions are appreciated!

I'm in the club. Had to build my own but that's ok .

Addams Family (resized).PNG

Making wiring harnesses one wire at a time on the playfield with no example to follow was the most tedious but not necessarily difficult. This is followed by debugging the connections to the 7-opto board. I still have an issue with Bookcase Opto 4. But, it works .

fixed the problem with Bookcase Opto 4. It helps to have the return for the LED connected to the correct connector location ...

I'd like to but right now I have no $$ to do it .

I'd consider getting one of Victor Tan's boards. He has a thread under his handle Dumbass. He uses modern components so the 5V to the MPU is much more stable. I think Rottendog's have this improvement too. I used his MPU, WPC-SND, and WPC power driver boards in my TAF build. They work flawlessly.

Hello everyone.

I'm looking for suggestions for how to keep the yellow lamp from constantly coming out of the electric chair socket. It is a wedge type. I've considered pulling the chair and changing to a bayonet, but I don't think there is room in the chair for a bayonet socket.

I've tried adjusting the metal contacts in the wedge socket to provide more friction but, so far it hasn't helped.

Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!

Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

@Dumbass, I think I'm going to go with the bayonet sockets. Fortunately, when I made this assembly, I put the diodes in line with the wiring harness, so they won't be in the way if I change the sockets. Hopefully I can hollow out the chair a bit to make things fit more easily.

Since this machine was a scratch build, I have no plans to sell it

Thanks again!

You won't be dissappointed! He does great work. I have used his cabinets for 2 scratch builds and both turned out really nice.