As of today, I’m Creepy and I’m kooky! But actually pick it up tomorrow. This will be my first pin that I actually want to mod up!
(Topic ID: 78709)
Linked Games
Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994-
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider TicTacSeth.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Welcome Honored guests!
Mod away, mines a hot mess of mods!
Thanks man, got it, cleaned it, and haven’t wanted to walk away from it since. Got a good one! There’s one crazy spot on the playfield where the wood looks splintered up, and there’s a second layer of Mylar in it, which is odd, but it’s not killing the gameplay. Whats crazy is I almost can’t angle this thing high enough to get the level right, and the front is to the floor and the back is all the way up!
I’m looking into the ROMs, because I’m running P-2, and it looks like there’s some debate on going with original vs gold due to Cousin It scoring. I won’t open that here as I’m sure it was discussed earlier. I have some reading to do haha.
All these toys and decals for the game is awesome, I’m going to drop so much money on this pin! Haha
872F42AC-5B76-4BEE-A3EE-EC148DA7AAF6 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
So here’s a question, I’ve been playing this Addams a good many times in the week we have had it, and am noticing the shot to the middle ramp seems to always go to the left flipper and never across the wireform to the right flipper. Does the player control this somehow or is it just not working?
Assuming not working haha
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Does the diverter work in tests?
Bear ramp = wire form to right flipper.
Thing flips = to mini flipper.
Figured it out! Luckily it was an easy fix. It was working in the switch test, and hitting the switches myself it would score. Finally when I sent the ball slowly through it I figured out the switch wasn’t getting hit far enough by the ball to trigger!
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Sweet, love an easy fix.
Now the ball occasionally gets trapped up there 
lol
Quoted from snowvictim:You mean by the switch actuator or the diverter?
The switch actuator. If the ball rolls up there too slow, it doesn’t make it through. Finding it hard to get the balance right between the switch getting triggered consistently and the switch being too tight and catches the ball occasionally.
2 weeks later
Just got some mods for my TAF, need some spotlights. I need Black Friday to kick me up some deals! Lol ( I also need to get a Lester)
Question- I got the fuse mod for the magnets, and one of the magnets no longer had the connectors on them. Wires were cut and twisted together, then covered with duct tape. To get them to the fuse wires, does it matter which wire connects to the other? Both magnet wires look black which is why I’m asking. So trying to be sure it was done right.
2 months later
Just put my Black Friday purchases to work and have been putting in the LEDs for inserts, GI and backglass. Have more GI to do, but put in my first set of spotlights too and I feel like it’s TOO bright. Both of these pics are with the LEDs and spots in, but it feels more like the brightest one in person. I just started looking up pinstadium from some suggestions on Facebook, either that or might drop from the 4LED in the spots to 2LED? Anyone else have thoughts from theirs, or have I just been looking at lights too much for one day? Ha
705E0BF9-7A32-417D-B674-864BAB7B6268 (resized).jpegE2D39017-F975-4254-9676-5BCCC3B27D34 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from fatality83:Does anyone else's Addams make a loud crack sound when you turn the game off?
Mine does, from the speakers right?
Quoted from jp1985:Mine is more of a “pop” from the speakers.
Right, that’s what mine does. I had been wondering if that was bad, glad it’s normal haha.
4 months later
Odd question, Uncle Fest...ahem...Lester stopped working. How exactly would I trouble shoot this thing? I tried the clips on another power source and no go. The chair lights still work. Not sure how to tackle this?
Quoted from Durzel:It's possible the LED has just gone bad, it does happen. It's pretty unscientific, if it's connected to a working insert then the wires will be getting voltage. It basically can only be a dead LED or wire come off.
Is it replaceable with a piece I could buy somewhere? Not sure how these get put together.
Quoted from fatality83:More then likely the wire broke off the resistor or a leg broke off the resistor. You can order a replacement LED from Mouser or other electronic supply stores or a replacement resistor. I recently went through a whole Fester issue. My fester fell out of his chair. Apparently mine is a cheaper made one and is made out of plastic instead of rubber. I didn't stop playing and decapitated him with a ball lol. I glued the head back on and from my taking it in an out a couple times, the resistor then broke. I said bahhhh who needs this and hooked it up without it. The LED then burnt (what a surprise right). The LED that came in him was a stupid clear one to make matters worse, most have a red or yellow LED. At this point I was so pissed I had him out for awhile and was just gonna buy a new Fester. One day I decided to try and repair it one last time. I had to order a new resistor and LED from mouser. Pull him out of the game. My resistor was soldered to the end of the wire right at the alligator clip. You may have to remove heat shrink or whatever to get at it. If you have a spare switching power supply, you can hook it up to the 5volts and test it out of the game. If not, a multimeter set to diode test mode should be enough to at least get the LED to illuminate FAINTLY. With the resistor it may not illuminate much at all. LED's typically don't burn out unless your a bonehead like me and try sending 5 volts directly to them without the right resistor.
This is the LED I ordered from Mouser, you can order a red, yellow or purple whatever color you want.
Yellow LED
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/755-SLR-332YY3F
Red LED
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/755-SLR-332VRT32
If your resistor leg broke off, here is the replacement you will need. Keep in mind, this resistor pairs along with the LED's linked above. It should probably be fine working with the LED that is already on Fester but just keep that in mind.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/660-MF1-4CCT52R2200F
If you already have a spare LED laying around and don't need to order the above one, you can tell what resistor you will need if you know the specs of the LED. Use this calculator to determine what resistor you need. http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/led-resistor-calculator
If you order the LEDs above the resistor I linked will work and like I said it SHOULD work with the LED that is already on your fester if your LED is still good.
Mine has been working for months now since I repaired him and I fixed him falling out of the chair with some velcro and hot glue.
Interesting, mine must be plastic too because I got him for a deal as his hand was broken off. What color did you end up going with? Yellow? White?
Somehow the instructions above sound hard, yet easy at the same time. I’ve only learned minor solder repairs at this point, haven’t run new wires, so some learning to be done here. How did you get the LED out of Fester? Just push or pull it right out, or is it glued in somewhere?
Quoted from fatality83:If you can solder it isn't hard at all. Just tin whatever you are soldering before hand and solder the new resistor or led on or both. Use heat shrink to protect your solder.
I have went with a red led and hooked it up to the red light on the chair that only flashes when the chair is ready to start multi-ball. Its all up to you though, you can have it come on with the yellow light to indicated it's ready to start a mode at the chair.
I just cut the wires off off the back of his head. Then the LED should pull out of his head. Mine wasn't glued in or anything but did take a little force to pull it. Just be careful you don't snap his head off since yours is plastic too.
I would first start with just looking at the wiring. More then likeley there is a break in the wiring or if you have alligator clips on it, maybe one came loose. Trace the wiring where they go through the playfield. If both aligator clips are attached to whatever they are hooked up for power you know that probably isn't the issue. Then I would start examining the wiring and aligator clips if it has them to make sure they are still attached and nothing came loose. Finally look for the resistor. It should be on the red wire. More then likely under the rubber boot of the alligator clip, peel it back and examine it for broken connection. I doubt your LED went bad but anything is possible, just more likely its a loose wire or connection somewhere imo.
If you want you can post a picture and I can tell you if I see anything off or what to look at.
Do you think this #86 bulb is the right size for Lester? My guess is no, but hey, worth a shot ha.
7489A165-601F-4DBB-A6D0-700D40B65217 (resized).png 3 weeks later
Quoted from harig:print your own:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome! Any of these exist for the sides too? Or even the Thing box?
Quoted from harig:thing box decals:[quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome! Thanks Harig!
1 month later
Quoted from Durzel:There are two things here. Firstly, it has to learn when to flip, and initially it does this by a process of trial and error. Once it has calibrated itself if the machine is moved to a different location, or the levelling changed, or maybe even if it is cleaned or waxed, then it will become unreliable because the conditions have changed.
If the game has been changed in any of these ways Thing flips has to be recalibrated, and this is done by going into the menu and choosing "Reset Thing Flips Data". The game will then start learning the new conditions from scratch.
Secondly, I'm pretty sure it's meant to be fairly unreliable - both because the ball can and will go around the ramp at different speeds, drop down from the ramp slightly differently each time, adding or reducing a delay before it reaches the flipper, and because the game designers didn't want it to always make the shot.
If the flipper itself is strong enough to make the Swamp shot, and is trying to make it, then chances are it simply needs recalibrating or is working as intended.
This is crazy because I jumped on to ask this very question! So here’s my situation. I had the standard ROMs, Thing flipped into the swamp almost 100% of the time correctly. I just installed the Gold ROMs, and now it can’t hit a thing. It flips way too late and misses 100% of the time.
So is it really learning? Or do I have to calibrate some how?
2 weeks later
Quoted from CLEllison:Thought I'd share and pass the savings on to my fellow TAF enthusiasts. I'm notoriously cheap and I absolutely cringe at the prices "some" people are charging for some of the mods. I realize they need to make money but .............
The vault mod typically goes for ~$50. Did you know this is just a 1/24 scale pencil sharpener?
This can be had for under $7 shipped amazon.com link »
Buy yourself a $5 role of outdoor double sided tape to anchor it down
amazon.com link »
You see the lighted vault selling for almost $200? Just wow. Drill a hole in the rear of the vault, put in place a #44 pinch light socket held in place by a generous amount of gorilla glue. Solder on a couple alligator clips and attach to the vault light. Total cost ~$20
The knight mod "I think" is really cool but is it ~$45-$55 cool? No.
Is it $24.95 cool? YES! https://www.coinoppartsetc.com/product/parts-sale-pinball-machine-parts/addams-family-pinball-machine-game-modification-silver
USe some of that awesome double sided outdoor tape you purchased earlier to anchor it down.
Candlestick phone mod - typically $~40-$50.
How about typically under $7? amazon.com link »
Don't like the bronze hit it with a light dusting of black rattle can.
I DO want the fester mod ... not the plastic model I see being offered (that breaks quite often from what I've read) but the rubber one. If anyone has a line on one for less than the $80-$120 mark I would love know where from otherwise I'm going to have to bite the bullet.
That’s what I saw too - the knight, phone, train and vault are all die cast pencil sharpeners. eBay all day. I also got a grandfather clock, but ended up sticking with the knight in that spot.
2 weeks later
Quoted from CLEllison:How to make thing your “own” thing. A tut for the cheap folks
I tried printing the thing graphics available in this thread and it simply WILL NOT print to the correct size. Since this site won’t allow anything other than pictures to be posted (you’ll see what I mean later) I am going to tell/show you exactly how to get this done. I also cover where I screwed up so you don’t have to repeat my mistakes. And for those that ask why I don’t offer to email instead – people disappear/die. This way the work lives on forever.
Things used in this project: (See what I did there?)
Color printer, vinyl adhesive paper, exacto blade, Thing box artwork from here, Microsoft snippet, Microsoft Word 2016, household cutting board and a little imagination.
Download the graphic from here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-the-addams-family-club-tafmembers-fans-welcome/page/65?gallery&&&&&&&&&&&&&&galleryp=15
Now open the picture you just downloaded full screen and start Microsoft Snippet. You will want to as accurately as possible trace each individual item and save all 4 pieces as a .PNG file. Try NOT to get any outer “white” when you snip. What you put in is what you get. One at a time open BOTH side pictures and whatever default app they open with should allow you to rotate them 90 degrees. Save the changes.
QUICK NOTE: For the record the attached pictures show my photo customization against a person who sells these decals and the original picture on this site. The colors of mine are much richer, define lines in the leather better and the sheen of the vinyl paper I used is much glossier. Very happy with the end result!
Open Microsoft Word. Instructions provided may have different options/locations due to versions. Start a new blank document. (If you don’t have word then do it at your place of employment.) Open file explorer and browse to where you just saved those 4 photos. Hold down your CTRL key and one by one click each photo. Ensure you choose then in this order (side, side,top,front). Once they are all highlighted, left click one of the photos and keep your clicker down. Move your mouse downward. You’ll see the photos coming with your mouse. Position your mouse over Microsoft Word at the bottom of your screen and let your clicker go. The photos will be imported into your blank document. You’ll likely notice that you now have 2 pages instead of one. It’s OK we’re going to fix that right now. For each photo you are now going to have to set the dimensional parameters.
NOTE: For ALL photos ensure under the scale section that checkmarks are REMOVED from “lock aspect ratio” and “Relative to original picture size”.
Right click side picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 0.78” x Width Absolute 4.45”. Click OK
Right click other side picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 0.78” x Width Absolute 4.45”. Click OK
Right click TOP picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 3.77” x Width Absolute 3.95” – Click OK
Right click FRONT picture – set parameters as Height Absolute 1.27” x Width Absolute 3.95” – Click OK
Now all photos are on one page. To create gaps in between each photo simply click at the bottom right of the photo. You'll see a blinking cursor bar. Just press enter until you have the gap you want. SAVE your document. While the picture sown shows the gaps fairly minimal use as much as you can between the pictures that keeps everything on one page.
It’s time to reap the fruits of your labor! Let’s print this bad boy. The vinyl gloss paper is sticky. REMOVE ALL current paper in printer tray and insert one sheet glossy side down. DO NOT OVERUSE your printer tray alignment tools to “snug up” the paper alignment. Have it sitting flush against the right edge of the tray and gently resting as far forward in the tray as you can. This paper is finicky.
Go ahead and select print. This part is a little grey area as most printer driver options will look different. Some offer certain options that others either don’t or the options are just located/buried some where else. Attempt to replicate my printer settings shown in the pictures. I do suggest you run a test print choosing black ink/gray scale to see if things print correctly. No sense of wasting ink (ask me how I know). When printing is done let her sit for 15 minutes or so. You may choose to use a rattle can clear coat or a self-adhesive laminate sheet. I chose neither originally and found the ink is so easily marred up I'm going to go buy some self-adhesive laminate. Apply it, cut around decals and then apply. Heed my advice
IF you did it right, you should have a beautiful printout laying in front of you. Since most of us don’t have a machine that we can use to scan and cut for us we’ll have to do it by hand. The vinyl material is easily marred, whatever you use for straight edge – ALWAYS lift it up when you move it. Picture showing circled items in blue is showing how I marred the ink and I how also slipped with the knife and scraped the decal. I use a standard plastic household cutting board to cut the decal on. Using any straight edge item you’ll want to align the straight edge to the VERY outer edge of the picture. I suggest you choose a couple spots to test blade depth cut/strength first. You’ll “feel” the blade actually cutting into the paper. The idea is to cut the vinyl and not the paper – which sounds easier than what it really is because the vinyl I used is super thin but did so to ensure no feeding issues through the printer. With your exacto blade (fresh blade of course!) you’ll now cut a line from one side all the way to the other. KEEP THE BLADE STRAIGHT. Cutting at an angle can result in ink damage. Wipe your blade after every cut. A small amount of debris on the blade can cause an ill cut and when you attempt to peel it off it WILL deal you grief. You'll literally feel a difference in blade cutting if you have a chunk of glue get in the way. Cut it again!In the attached photos I show I have cut everything possible so the excess (white unprinted areas) can be peeled off first. Start peeling the excess vinyl off. Peel at an angle where you are pulling the vinyl away from the decal. This is where you find out how badly you suck at cutting things. When you reach the edge of your photo and it appears to be coming up STOP! Put your exacto blade tip in the cut line of the outer cut and follow it back to the graphic pressing down harder. You’re going to likely have to do this more than you care too. The vinyl should easily pull away from the graphic. If it doesn't DO NOT PULL the vinyl. This will distort the graphic piece. (Ask me how I know)
Now it’s not mandatory for you to paint Things box – but c’mon now – you just went through all of this and you’re going to get lazy? Lightly sand the box to rough it up, wipe it down clean so the black rattle can paint has something better to adhere to.
Lastly – to apply the decals. Use the tip of your exacto blade to lift the decal away from the backing so you can get a hold of it. These things are THIN and SUPER sticky. Likely a one chance type of ordeal if you use the dry method. You can shoot Things box with Windex and lay the decal down. When you are satisfied with its location then place a paper towel over the decal and press down gently attempting to squeeze any liquid from underneath and absorb on the paper towel. As a test I sprayed Windex on top of the decal and wiped. Yes, the ink did in fact slightly come off but the effect is was actually kind of cool!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
How easy is it to do all of that ... and mail it to me? Haha
3 months later
Quoted from MintIndeed:I messaged mjenison directly and he said he does still make them, i just received mine yesterday in fact. It’s really well made.
Yup, love that mod, it looks great in mine!
2 weeks later
Quoted from robgo777:Hey Everyone,
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, and it fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. It also fits with a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers, although you will have to remove the right speaker block to install the light board. There is some slight ghosting though, I will see if I can figure out a way to eliminate that but it isn't very bad as it is.
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Count me in for 1!
1 month later
Quoted from MintIndeed:Backbox layered lighting (thanks Comet!):
Layered blinking effects using Comet Pinball LEDs.
Cousin It: 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Slow, Warm White
Fester (lower): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Fester (upper): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Slow, Cool White
Children (lower): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Children (upper): 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Slow, Cool White
Auntie: 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Woman in dirt: 455 Dim Blinking Bulb - Fast, Warm White
Behind Morticia and Gomez: 1SMD Bulb - Cool White
Thing and other lights: 1SMD Bulb - Warm White
I put a flame bulb behind the grandma. Adds to the fire/cauldron image.
1 week later
Quoted from gac:I believe Comet and Cointaker sell them. I'm sure a couple other LED suppliers have them as well.
Right, I believe it was called a flame bulb?
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:It is at cointaker. Its 3 smd rotating colors, looks good, i added a strip of opaque scotch tape to diffuse it better.
That’s a good move, I’m going to do that. Thanks! Mine is a 4smd rotating I believe.
4 weeks later
Hi all, I need help with a setting/feature that I can’t seem to turn off. Something happened that reset the game and erased the high scores about a little over a month ago. It’s been working fine now, thing is dialing himself back in, but when a game ends the game asks if we want to buy an extra ball??? I went into the settings and buy in is turned off, so wondering if it’s a different setting. Anyone know how to turn this feature off?
Quoted from Barr993:I have 3 sets of stickers from Judge Dread Pinball: Thing box, bookcase and shooter lane. The center ramp sticker came as part of the shooter lane stickers here:
ebay.com link
I’m a definite maybe, I need to look up how far from Morristown you are. Mainly in for the Thing Box. As I have the book case, but maybe also the shooter lane.
2 weeks later
Quoted from DystopicPinball:Hi guys! Im on the Club! Just made some custom mods for my favourite pinball!
3D printed (resin + pla ) and airbrushed Fester, Lurch and Bear with lights.
Working now to a new one never seen on TAF, but will require time for design and print.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That fester is legit, I’d consider one if this becomes a thing haha.
Also, I like Lurch, but also don’t like that it blocks the view of the vault and thing ... but that mini Thing makes me think it could be a cool reveal once you get the book case opened up sitting behind the plastic.
2 months later
Quoted from gac:Installed a dmd extender and screen on the apron of my Addams today. Pretty cool mod. Many thanks to myPinballs Electronics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What the crap? Where do I get more info on this!
4 months later
Quoted from MrCleanHead:Im looking to brighten up the playfield without going the pinstadium route. I was thinking about adding some LED spotlights. Im sure someone has done the leg work on this and was wondering if there was any info/pics that gave good results.
I have 5 or so spotlights in mine to cover the lower and upper playfield, But I want to undo it. I’ve been looking into going the DIY pinstadium route instead.
Quoted from Mikespinball:Here is what I did. I changed out the playfield back board to plexiglass and had the art work done so you could back light it. To me this also helps light up the back of the game, but not too much to take away the rest of the playfield GI lighting.
[quoted image]
That’s a great idea! I want this in all my pins!
2 weeks later
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:To me this game is almost unplayable with stock lighting. PinStadiums fixed that for me, now I can really enjoy it, but you have to wonder, the upper playfield isn’t that pretty, is the dim lighting intentional?
Yes, I have 6 or 7 spotlights going in mine. Letting it ride for now, but now want pin stadiums to clean it up in there. Needs it.
Quoted from fiberdude120:Clear ramp ,pop LEDs and lit back panel did it for me.
[quoted image]
Before I did these things it was very dark now it is a pleasure to play.
Huge fan of the backlit panel back there!
2 weeks later
Quoted from DystopicPinball:Slingshot mod i made for my Addams pinball.
If interested, check my pinside shop.
thanks[quoted image]
That’s pretty cool!
3 weeks later
Quoted from glpinball:Funny story - so I rebuilt the flippers including replacing 3 of the 4 coils since they were very old and at least one had a stuck coil sleeve. First time doing this and soldering on a pinball game so that was interesting. But it worked in the end! Flippers are now amazing and I have hope I can actually hit some scores I see people getting on the game online. Before the flippers were so weak you had to use momentum to hit the bear ramp. But, as I was testing the flippers the ball would barely get out of the shooter lane at a full plunge. What the heck!!! Flippers have nothing to do with ball plunge! I'm looking at it, even removed the gate to eliminate that as being the problem. Checked the plunger, wondering if somehow its misaligned and hitting something as it goes in. Finally, go to set up a video and realize I can see metal on the plunger tip! Turns out at the exact same time I rebuilt the flippers, the tip of the rubber plunger cover broke off during my testing. Replaced it with an old one I had laying around and problem solved! Don't you love unrelated problems that come up during a fix?
Man, I’m getting my butt kicked on unrelated problems with my LOTR right now. Or, probably related I just can’t see how. The game I got the solonoid for the flipper had the wrong screws that you could tel the previous owner jammed in there and wasn’t holding the coil right. So all I did was replace the screws, but I must have bumped something because the next game the flipper was energizing up randomly, later locked on and blew the fuse, and now won’t flip at all even after going through it underneath to be sure the switches didn’t get bent. Now I’m tracing things back to the board ... and I’m not skilled with this level of diagnosis. Why did I have change the screws?!?
Quoted from Neal_W:One lug of the flipper coil may be touching something and getting grounded after you worked on it. (or one of the wires going to the coil lug is loose)
Good tip, I’ll check it out!
2 months later
Quoted from Durzel:Ugh that does not sound remotely simple. Thanks for the info.
Yup, I had to get in there one time and to do that, it all has to come apart.
Quoted from Mikespinball:I did a lighted back board along with spot lights and added LEDs throughout the machine.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The lighted backboard looks so dang good, I might have to do that!
3 months later
Quoted from altan:I just finished removing all leds from the GI of my Addams Family. Just not my thing. Pun intended.
In the back right, near the phone plastic, is a GI light. It’s a 555 socket riveted to the plastic so you need to fuss around with 2 hard to access screws to get the entire plastic piece off.
Here’s my question. What direction should that 555 GI socket face? It rotates because of the river. It appears it should face downward (aka toward the player). I ask because this position has the bulb touching the plastic. Also, it creates a little hot spot.
See picture. [quoted image]
Thanks for your thoughts!
Yeah, I dropped mine lower and used one of the matrix bulbs so a second light would be there to spread the light out. Almost went full strip but the two bulbs do well.
2 months later
Quoted from ArcadeAction:The Addams Family Lit Kit flippers mod is now listed at http://www.ArcadeMade.com
Here also is a video of an installation running in the Showtime mode:
[quoted image]
I just did my flippers - went with Purple. Let me know what you think!
3D8423C1-1375-498C-ABCE-DA95772F5CCD (resized).jpeg65025BCA-A7B4-4778-9F5B-AC4D025FB8E9 (resized).jpeg6701327E-C2C4-440B-80BC-A865B7A33FBD (resized).jpegC90D458F-6330-4C7D-ADF1-0B7F61203B07 (resized).jpeg 2 months later
Quoted from TronGuy:Forgive a rookie question
What is the difference between TAF, and TAF GOLD? And, how do you tell the difference?
Gold has some art differences, more gold and less blue in the cab art, gold legs, lockdown bar and side rails. Inside are gold pop bumper caps, thing box and bookcase plastics. Game-wise there was also an extra ball button under the shooter rod, and in the bottom right of the front was a plaque. Only 1k we’re made I believe.
Quoted from TronGuy:I think I saw the software revision indicate GOLD edition. It's a re-import of some type.
I didn't think it had any of the stuff mentioned above.
You can put the gold ROMs into the standard Addams Family, just a swap of the chips.
1 week later
Quoted from EvanDickson:How do these work? Are they just added inline with existing gi? And where do you place them?
Anyone got a pic of spotlights in their TAF?
If mine weren’t buried due to a basement improvement project I would take one, but I have spotlights in a number of spots. Have them on the right and left slings with the spotlight kits. Then I put one up above the swamp by the upper flipper and another over on the left ramp to light the upper playfield. There’s a lot in the middle of the playfield that blocks the spotlights from the slings, so that’s why I did it.
Spotlight kit or source the parts for the spotlight kit with matrix bulbs to hook into the GI.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:If mine weren’t buried due to a basement improvement project i would take one, but I have spotlights in a number of spots. Have them on the right and left slings with the spotlight kits. Then I put one up above the swamp by the upper flipper and another over on the left ramp to light the upper playfield. There’s a lot in the middle of the playfield that blocks the spotlights from the slings, so that’s why I did it.
Spotlight kit or source the parts for the spotlight kit with matrix bulbs to hook into the GI.
Quoted from thewool:I'm a fan of darker playfields but Addams is very dark especially on the right side. Currently adding some LED star posts to help a bit, will report back on how it goes.
Yup, I also put 3 of these lit star posts in. One on each sling closest to the flipper, and one on the right side by the scoop.
Quoted from lhammer610:I volunteer at a pinball museum as a tech. We got in a pin that had star posts lights in them. Kept shorting out and blowing the GI fuse. It took us a while to find them. I am going to try that on TAF, but would like to know if anyone else has had issues?
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=abl_SP
Interesting - I’ve put them in a few games and never had a problem.
For spotlights, I used Warm White I believe. I actually have 2 on the left sling, one pointed towards the center and one pointed up to the pops since I put some grave stones on them. On the right I have it pointed a bit more up the playfield. The spotlight on the upper right flipper is aimed towards the vault and is higher for that whole Thing corner where I have a knight statue. The left spotlight where the left ramp meets the wire form points towards the center more.
1 month later
Quoted from monkfe:anyone following the three TAF's on ebay...seems like an odd way to list these machines....
Yeah I saw that today too. Not sure what to think about it. New way to run a scam maybe? Risky to do it on eBay I would think.
3 weeks later
Quoted from fossmin:Maybe I'm wrong. I could have sworn that clear was original. Hard to tell on the flyer.
Yeah I thought Smoke was original the same way the smoke ramps were original.
2 weeks later
Quoted from jbovenzi:I just posted a TAF/TAFG IGT Topper/Table Stand Light in the Marketplace. I thought some Addams fans might like to see it here!
Would be great if you wanted to lose your broken up cloud. Or just use in your cave next to the machine!
[quoted image][quoted image]
That’s super cool
Here’s a question. I’ve seen convo on LED OCD, but also seeing there’s a GI OCD. I’ve searched through threads on the OCD’s, but can’t parse out if both are really needed as I’m reading some say the GI they didn’t notice a difference except for on certain games.
The LED OCD seems to be the more common one people purchase, though it is out of stock. So want to see what people on here think. Do you have it, which one, and is it a difference maker?
Quoted from jeffro01:Yes you need both if you're going to do it.
Jeff
Ah cool - I guess I have to wait till the LED OCD is back in stock for that one. The GI is there though.
Quoted from orangegsx:Thank you. Yep scratch build. Its a mirco
I’m eying the Micro - did you say you had to add another layer of clear on it? I thought those were good out of the box?
Quoted from orangegsx:I have been reading a lot about the clear chipping. They use ceramic clear and it seemed super hard (brittle). I gave it a tap on the edge and it chipped too easily in my opinion. So I sanded as much as I could off and put something I’m more familiar with on it. I wanted to flatten out some of the inserts too.
I also didn’t like the fact that they clear these and then route out the holes. Leaving a raw sharp edge. I wanted to get some clear over the edges of all the holes to maybe stop it from chipping in the future.
[quoted image]
This is before my clear, you can see this clear seems almost like its brushed on and not completely flat. The insert is not completely level with the playfield either.
[quoted image]
And the same insert after clear
[quoted image]
Oh interesting … scares me away from attempting my first playfield swap! Haha
Quoted from DuffysArcade:I can confirm that Mirco playfields will chip easily at those sharp edges. My first PF swap ended up with a 1/4" x 3/8" chip at a saucer where the ball impacted the corner left when they routed the holes. Only took a few games on the new playfield before the damage happened.
So did you sand yours down too? Or put another layer of clear over it?
1 week later
Quoted from dmacy:FYI if anyone needs a new TAF playfield with the volume up to 11, Ron has one about ready for someone. Having seen and swapped one in person, it’s like a Mustang factory paint job vs a show quality one.
[quoted image]
Oh dang, that is pretty tempting …
1 week later
Quoted from lhammer610:I have converted: LOTR, FH, HS2, EBD, S&S, Silverball, Tommy, Gorgar, Hurricane, Junk Yard, Kings of Steel, and Firepower. I have WH2O on my list for a complete overhaul. I have also done a bunch at the Roanoke Pinball Museum.
The guy who runs RPM, pretty much agrees with you. But IMHO, there is nothing 'mandatory' about this option.
The only one I found that was intolerable was LOTR. The flashing was just 'off' and annoying. The OCD board made all the difference. FH would be nice as when the ball runs up the ramp, the lamps flash too harshly.
On the others, it looks fine TO ME - and I realize your opinion is different. I have never had a player complain about any of my other games. And, in no case have I ever noticed a problem with the GI's.
The one exception was Tommy, when leading up to multiball, the relay flickers the lights - it is nauseating. A quick unplug of the connection to that relay fixed that problem.
I did Silverball early on in the LED lamp revolution. Those LEDs are DC only. On the GI's, the flickering was terrible, so I converted that to DC. But on my other pins, including EMs Play Ball and Grand Prix, the 'AC' LEDs are fine.
The OCD boards are great products. But switched lamp boards for WPC pins run at $140, not an insignificant expense. If you want one (they are sold out right now at the OCD website), go for it. For me, to convert my current collection, that would run just short of $3K just for the switched lamp boards.
Thanks, I will pass. I would go for color DMDs or PinSound first. And maybe another playfield swap.
Thanks for the follow up on this! I’ve had an Addams before, and there was some ghosting but overall I didn’t mind the look. I thought it would just make the dimming more subtle to make going into multiball and seance look better, but might not be the case though huh?
And right, to have both it does seem to cost a lot and the boards are OOS anyway. Maybe I just keep rolling without it as I fix up this one.
… I am thinking about putting a new playfield on it. Reading up now on CPR vs the other one.
Quoted from OTRChief:I installed a GI OCD yesterday in my WH2O and it makes a major difference (lots of dimming). I added leds a long time ago and don't remember this amount of dimming with conventional bulbs. It dims between balls and during multi-ball and maybe some other times.
Ah, so maybe that’s what would work, just the GI OCD
2 months later
Anyone know if there’s a way to get a high res of all of the cabinet art? Buddy of mine has a CNC machine and the machinery to direct print onto the wood itself in high quality. We both have an Addams, so figured it would be a good one to try it out on.
1 week later
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think its really a matter of the game theme.
UFO looking pops on AFM or space themed game, or a circus raceway lights concept would work well.
Other games, I like the 7/11 leds disks from comet better.
With these I have wondered if I would like them better with a more opaque pop bumper cap for more uniform lighting. I love the down lighting these provide onto the playfield, but don’t like seeing all the dots up top (unless like you said, it fits the theme)
2 months later
Just got these lights from a seller on eBay. I hated LEDs in there, and I tried a number of them, so stuck with the incandescents with the covers. But I’m digging the look of these when they’re off, and nice and bright with strong color when on!
2DB09DAC-0564-4FA0-8B65-B97FFC45E88E (resized).jpeg60A12D82-F50A-4D6D-A1BB-32CF025C2949 (resized).jpeg61995F67-93C7-47C8-8165-41E5386EB5BC (resized).jpegFA0ABA68-01C4-470E-9D3A-89EA13EBF555 (resized).jpegQuoted from MG7322:Those are from me. Many different colors available in clear or vapor metallic. PM me is you want a kit for your TAF or any pin for that matter. Real glass with LED filament, 6V DC 555 bulb fit and finish.
Been meaning to set up a Pinside shop but just stuck it in my eBay store.
ebay.com link: itm
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome! I had to put some games on them after putting them in. Like them a lot!
Quoted from MG7322:Also can try glass LED in 555 shape. Correct wire loop at the bottom and automotive tolerances for the press dimensions. Fits just like original 555’s but benefits of colored LED. If you want factory look silicon boot fits right over them.[quoted image]
I’ll second this one again - got the darker bulb version of this from MG, and it looks awesome. The color and light really stand out compared to the incandescents, but don’t look as out of place as putting a regular LED in. I’m a fan
Quoted from DumbAss:Some images of the chair assembly. Wedge (original) versus bayonet (modified).[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This kind of confirms to me that if I were a 3D printing guy, I would try to 3D print a chair where the holes are set a bit more forward. It always seems like one or both of the lights isn’t sticking straight out straight.
1 week later
Quoted from cconway84:Joined the club again. Picked up an Addams Gold to put beside my current Addams Gold. This one is #8 and had batteries with 2012 date codes on the board that haven’t leaked.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Oh man - that’s the dream! Two TAF Golds! One day … one day …
3 weeks later
Quoted from cconway84:Installed my Leds in my Addams and they are incredible. Looks like a neon effect. A must have for this game.
Agree, they look phenomenal. I was playing it again last night, and I also really like the look of their ghosting. It’s a faint colored glow behind the dark bulb - looks super good!
2 weeks later
Question for someone smarter than me (which I’m pretty sure is all of you haha):
My Addams resets here and there. I’ve done the googling on it, watched videos on resets, and have some similar symptoms: it only happens on a multiball, which a number of people talk about, when both flippers are flipped. The difference in line though is it doesn’t happen consistently even when trying to recreate it. It doesn’t happen often, but is frustrating when it happens. I tried one of those “no reset” boards and that just made the flippers react wildly, triggering rapidly just from turning the game on.
Any ideas what to do or where to check?
Quoted from glpinball:Does the power cord have a ground?
I’m pretty sure it does, I’ll double check though.
Quoted from pinmister:This series is really great. I was already big into my Adams Family with theme connection, and this series has just added to the connection. If anyone has not checked out Wednesday-highly recommend. The creative writing is over the top and has captured my imagination for this series.
[quoted image]
Agree, it’s been a really good watch so far! Wednesday and things are on point! I’m glad the guy that is playing Gomez isn’t in it past the first episode so far. He was too snively around Tish for my taste.
1 week later
Quoted from Miguel351:So, does anybody make a thing box accelerator yet? It would definitely help speed that transfer up a bit, especially for people with games set up a bit flatter than average. Seems like it'd be a pretty easy mod to make with an equally easy install. Any takers/makers? Or should I just go ahead and start the process myself?
Interesting thought, I’m intrigued
2 months later
Quoted from DystopicPinball:Hi everyone,
I'd like to share with you the gallery of all the mods I've made for my Addams Family pinball!
Thank you
https://www.dystopicpinball.com/my-pinball-gallery/the-addams-family
I’ve got the bookcase, and I love it!
1 month later
Quoted from crussell99:"Does anyone know where to buy this exact polar bear rug figure for less than $114? TIA."
I used one from ebay. Search for "Playmobil Large Dark Brown Bear Skin Rug". I painted mine white and added black for the eyes, ears, and claws. $8
Not exact, but for 1/10th the cost, it's really damn close.
Chris
Ha, that’s what I did too
1 week later
Quoted from DystopicPinball:Looking for Addams Family mods?
Check my website https://www.dystopicpinball.com and send an email if need more info
Thanks
[quoted image]
I think this reminded me I need a Greed book. Well played! Haha
1 month later
Quoted from beltking:Here is my thing. Super lifelike 1 scale from Etsy prop shop.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Link? I like that one more than the one with stitches all over it.
Quoted from LTG:Google - search thing hand etsy prop shop.
Lots come up, some without stitches.
LTG : )
I have done that, this isn’t a LTG situation. Lol
I want to know specifically from which seller he purchased from. That one looks really good, and I’ve seen a lot of crap ones on there, and others it’s hard to tell the quality. This, I want specifics, and a link would help.
9 months later
Finally got my first DMD upgrade, and I love it!
I went the Pin2DMD route. I got them from pinsider Poerber who was awesome to work with, and it was totally plug and play.
By way of review, I’ve seen videos on the ColorDMD colorizations, and I do like some of the choices made on that one vs these Pin2DMD ones, but price was my big driver between the two. Almost half the price.
I had been wanting to do this for a few years and finally pulled the trigger. One down and 2 to go. Next install is for my IJ:TPA, and GB after that.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Finally got my first DMD upgrade, and I love it!
I went the Pin2DMD route. I got them from pinsider Poerber who was awesome to work with, and it was totally plug and play.
By way of review, I’ve seen videos on the ColorDMD colorizations, and I do like some of the choices made on that one vs these Pin2DMD ones, but price was my big driver between the two. Almost half the price.
I had been wanting to do this for a few years and finally pulled the trigger. One down and 2 to go. Next install is for my IJ:TPA, and GB after that.
[quoted image]
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Vernon Hills, IL
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider TicTacSeth.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
