(Topic ID: 78709)
Linked Games
Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994-
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RussMyers.
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Linwood, NJ
2 months later
Quoted from mima:Inspired by above, this is how my chair became.
Original lookModifiied look
cheers
/Micael
Nice. More subtle than mine, for sure.
Easy and fun, yes?
RussM
2 weeks later
Quoted from swedishc:I was inspired by the other hand painted electric chairs, so I decided to paint mine. I think it turned out ok.
Wow, that's nice.
Really looks like wood.
Do you model paint as a hobby?
RM
1 week later
Quoted from swedishc:I painted my bookcase to look more like wood and stone.
Blasphemy? Maybe, but I never thought the blue plastic looked very good.
Love it !!!
I painted the edge and part of the top of the blue disc under the decal black on mine because I hated the blue but I didn't think to paint the bookcase part brown. The brown and grey look great.
I also now wish I had painted the inside and outside of the Thing box black before I put on decals.
The red plastic just looks weird.
Next time...
RussMyers
Quoted from swedishc:Totally. I painted it gloss black before putting on the decals. I also repainted Thing to make it look realistic. It's pretty creepy now.
Do you have pics of those too please?
RM
4 weeks later
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:My chair won't hold bulbs in lol -right side pukes 'em out during play
I used a tiny (less than pea-sized) blob of museum putty on the back side of the chair bulbs to hold them in.
Just pressed it in so it contacts the bulb housing and the socket backside and they stay put.
The putty is white so you have to put it on the back side where you can't see it but it sticks well and is 100% removable in 3 seconds with no residue.
RM
Quoted from golfingdad1:What about the gold sound ROM? What is the difference?
This has the differences explained:
http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/21/TAFGOLD.HTM
RM
4 months later
Quoted from accidental:Do you think so? It isn't a line from the film and I always thought it sounded too goofy to be Gomez.
Definitely Raul Julia on that line.
It's too bad, really.
Having callouts from Wednesday, Pugsly, Grandmama, Cousin It, and Lurch would be awesome.
RM
1 week later
Quoted from zucot:I have an LED strip plugged into the same connector as my color DMD. Whenever the game powers up with both plugged in I blow a fuse. Any tips?
Too much added draw on that connector.
Maybe use something like this?
http://www.dkpinball.com/DKWP/
RM
5 months later
1 month later
Quoted from TAFnovice:New to this site/group... need some help. I'm a TAF owner - not great player but hopefully one day... my Thing box broke - I've ordered a new one - how do I change the box out? Thanks in advance.
Remove the glass and remove the back glass channel to give yourself some more room.
Remove the plastics on either side of the THING box.
You will then see the screws that hold the bottom THING box plastic to the top of the playfield
Remove these screws and the box just comes out.
Now would be the time to clean in that area, and install THING box decals if you want to.
I wish now that I had painted the inside and outside of my THING box black before installing my own decals, but that's that.
RussM
Quoted from TAFnovice:Thank you! I will paint black prior to installing my decals - great idea! Anything else, besides cleaning, that I should do while installing this new box? Any mods that I should consider for that area?
No additional suggestion for just that area.
You may want to give the Thing Hand a good cleaning, but you don't have to remove the box to do that.
I like:
Bookcase Decals (several styles to choose from)
Uncle "Lester" for the electric chair
Swamp Lamp (I rolled my own) or from Leesparts
Bookcase Spotlight (I rolled my own) or from Leesparts
Swamp Accelerator from Leesparts
RussM
Quoted from AlexSMendes:The Swamp Accelerator is not a MOD - it's a NECESSITY!
Probably true.
The ball getting stuck in the swamp is grounds for violence.
RM
Quoted from accidental:Yes mine functions 100% correctly and doesn't feel too slow to me at 'processing' a ball. But I know that sometimes you don't know how much better something can get until you experience it — just wondered if the swamp accelerator mod was one of those things
http://www.leesparts.com/products/addams-swamp-accelerator.html
RM
9 months later
I found a much nicer train for only about 20 bucks.
Search google for MIB 2000 Hallmark Ornament Lionel General Steam Locomotive # 5 Series
It looks a lot like the one from the movie and is the right size.
The price is all over the place, but if you look around, should be under 25.00
RussM
Quoted from b_vest:Thanks for the tip, RussM! I found one on eBay for $12 and bought it right away. Seems like a better alternative to that pencil sharpener-model. Hope it fits, then!
It definitely fits.
Just clip off the loop on the top the hook would go into to hang it as an ornament.
It's a nice piece.
RussM
Quoted from delt31:guys can someone explain how when the pop bumpers stay lit in this game? Just joined the club and my pops work fine but they stay on during certain times, off others. what's the reason behind this?
Read through the rules; they explain how and why the pop bumpers are lit.
http://www.ipdb.org/rulesheets/20/ADDAMSFA.HTM
RussM
3 weeks later
Quoted from meSz:Thought it would be better to ask this here! Cleaning TAF for a guy and upon putting the playfield (pf) back together I come to realize I am missing a post behind the Vault! I look at my videos of the pf before the tear down and notice it wasn't there to begin with. Found a post on here from a guy asking about this and the variations between TAF games. His pf didn't even have a hole for the post to go into but the one I am working on has the hole with a t-nut but no post.
Can anyone advise as to what the post is for and if it's common that the post was left out or taken out???
Yes, that post is present in early versions of the playfield and they eventually took it out.
Some playfields have a hole that was never filled and some have the art that implies a post hole, but the hole was never drilled.
It's OK for it not to be there; I think it was causing some bounce-backs so it was taken out.
RussM
Quoted from billsfanmd:Finishing up a taf for a friend. Best way to make swamp green? I have some comet led strips but wanted to see how anyone mounted it.
This is what I did:
RM
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Funny to see that picture...... yesterday I noticed that only my SEGA games had these light spots, and I decided to eliminate all of them (which I did today). I'm guessing this spot you got here ain't factory original, right?
Correct. I added it to brighten up the bookcase area.
It's a fairly common mod for TAF.
RM
Quoted from pinballinreno:Is anyone making a revised TAF Tip36/magnet board for under the playfield that addresses the potential for the magnet burn?
That's what the fuse kit is for.
RM
1 month later
Quoted from KornFreak28:Russ,
How did you paint yours? Just trying to compare methods. Thanks!
The Electric Chair?
I used Testor's Model Paints.
Medium Brown for the base color, then black to do the fine lines ("wood grain") and Metallic Silver to do the "metal" parts straps and such.
I'm no artist at all, but I can paint what's there.
Looks loads better than the stock part, IMO.
RussM
Quoted from KornFreak28:Yes, it looks awesome! What other mods did you do to your pin?
OMG, where to start?
Magnet fuse kit
Uncle Fester
Bear Rug to bear ramp (hand-painted Playmobil)
Target Decals (all)
Full Cliffy set
Thing box decals
Bookcase decal
LEDs throughout
Swamp light (green LED)
Bookcase Spotlight
Swamp accelerator (Lee's Parts)
Purple Rose shooter rod
Still to add:
TAF Pinblades
Thing Ramp decals
Black Pinballs
Full set of Titan Ring rubbers
I tinker on my games compulsively. I'm never done.
RM
Quoted from KornFreak28:Wow! I'll get there eventually I guess. How dis you install the Thing Box Decal? Its sooo difficult to get to it. Did you remove the PF? Remove all the plastics? Thanks
Take off the glass, then unscrew the playfield glass channel on the back and remove it. This is essential for the added clearance.
Remove the plastics from either side of the Thing box, and then you can get to the screws holding the box down.
Clean the sh*t out of it, and then spray the entire box inside and outside with a plastic-compatible spray paint. (like Plastikote)
Use black or a lighter color if it matches whatever decals you are using better. This totally gets rid of the red plastic look, esp when the box opens.
Put the decals on and reverse the order.
RussM
Quoted from KornFreak28:Russ,
Regarding the box thing decal...did you have to remove the ramp in order to remove the plastic on the left side of the box? Thanks
No, but I needed a very short nut driver.
RM
Quoted from KornFreak28:Must have been a veeeerry short driver. Thanks! Great help!
Use something like this:
https://store.acethreefountains.com/products/socket-41pc-1-4-driveace%7C2100147.html
RM
Quoted from NPO:Time to make this thing sing this weekend.
Maybe this weekend I'll actually take some pictures OF the machine....!
Do you mind documenting your speaker upgrade method and how/what speakers you selected?
Thanks,
RussM
6 months later
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Navram....you have to install socket first, or is this plug and play? I really want to get rid of all my batteries. These past posts making me do inspections. It's amazing how fast a couple years fly by without checking batteries.
For WPC boards the RAM is soldered in. It needs to be de-soldered and a socket installed to take the NVRAM chip.
This is a delicate job and not for the casual solderer, IMO.
Lots of techs can do this for you.
RM
2 months later
Quoted from cheshirefilms:I think I just put my finishing touches on my TAF. Considering thing box decal, but that would be it. Not bad for an original?
If you pull the red plastic box to add the decals, consider painting the entire box, especially the inside, black (or brown) before you add the decals.
RussMyers
1 week later
Quoted from mjthompson:The three tiered telephone plastic assembly in the back right corner of the playfield is a PitA. Does anyone have an easy way to remove/attach it? Or, if not, has anyone modified it to make it easier remove/attach it without removing the playfield?
Remove the black plastic glass channel from the back of the cabinet.
This will give you a few more inches of room.
I find that this is enough to get to those plastics and the THING box.
You may have to use a small ratchet with an extension to get into the tight areas but it's better than pulling the playfield.
RussM
Quoted from mjthompson:I'm talking about the plastic that's mounted to the side of the playfield with 2 screws. The glass channel doesn't seem to get in the way. I just can't get a screwdriver to the screws through the notches cut in the plastics without reefing on the assembly.
I have definitely been able to remove and re-mount that assembly without removing the playfield.
I'll agree, it's a very narrow space to work in.
I can't remember what tools I used to do it, but it is possible.
I'm sorry that's not much help.
RM
3 weeks later
Quoted from golfingdad1:Let's try this again,
You may consider painting the blue bookcase pieces before re-assembling them to hide all of the blue, even under the decals.
I painted the edge of the bottom disc black to hide the blue before I put on the decal and I'm glad I did.
I wish maybe I had painted the upper pieces as well (not necessarily black) and I wish I had painted the red plastic Thing Box either black or dark brown before putting the Thing Box decals on.
Just a thought.
RussMyers
Quoted from golfingdad1:Thanks Russ.
Any body have tips on removing these side rails ???
Appears there is only one nut and bolt near the flipper button, and adhesive holding the rail down . But it's on GOOD.
Are you planning on re-decalling the cabinet, or just replacing the side rails?
Getting them off while keeping the decals intact takes great care.
RussM
2 months later
Quoted from mjenison:My Uncle Fester mod keeps wanting to fall out of his chair. Tried double stick tape and hot glue. Any tips?
Earthquake putty.
RussM
2 months later
Quoted from Robl45:I'm sure its a stupid question, but has anyone added a ballsave to this with a custom rom or anything? The kids lose attention quick without a ball save.
Technically there is a ball save if you score 0 points.
RM
6 months later
Quoted from Frax:How the hell do you get to the back edge of the playfield to clean and take the ramps off? It's on a damn pivot nut and it's too close to the top edge to fit any tools back there.. is the only option to remove the damn entire playfield from the game? I'm not sure my wife and I can get it out, it's too bloody heavy.
Take out the black plastic playfield glass channel on the back of the cabinet just above the rear of the playfield.
This does not look like much but it gives you and extra inch or two of space to work on the back third of the playfield.
I have shopped out several TAFs, including my own, and it makes a lot of difference in clearance.
RussM
3 years later
I have heard Clay Harrell and others describe what is going on with dirty/marginal flipper opto switches on WPC games: a weak signal means the circuit becomes "confused" as to whether it should be on or off and it will rapidly cycle on and off and the coil flutters. You can sometimes hear it buzz. That gets you a weak flipper response. It's looking for 0v or 12v and you give it 6v. Is that on or off? That's what I heard explained; I'm not an engineer.
RussM
Quoted from lhammer610:Good to know that you can replace the horseshoe optos in those flipper boards. Which part number from where do you use?
"Tungsten switch pads corrode and are a constant maintenance issue."
Given that switches used in computer controlled flippers, like Fliptronics, are low current, tungsten should not be used. They should be gold contacts.
"dont lose power like dirty contacts do"
In theory.... dirty contacts and dirty optos should not lose power. These are digital systems and the flippers should be either on, at full power, or off. So dirty flipper switches, unlike non-computer controlled flipper systems using tungsten full current leaf's, should never ever lose power. They should work, until they do not.
And the same should be true for optos.
But I have had pinball experts who have worked on these for decades swear, and swear at me, saying that they have had a weak flipper and then moved flipper opto boards from left to right, and the weak flipper follows the opto board.
I am not trying to say that this does not happen. I just don't understand it.
My comment is that there is a reason that DE/Sega/Stern, and later, JJP, did not try to copy or come up with a flipper opto board to use on their computer controlled flippers: because they cause as many problems as they solve.
So I was surprised to read that you 'upgrade' TAF flipper switches to optos, considering how many people hate them.
Disclaimer: I harbor no ill feeling towards flipper opto boards other than to feel that they were a solution in search of a problem.
1 month later
Quoted from pghpinfan:I have the gold Roms. Any idea where in the menu?
TAF has no ball save, Gold ROMs or otherwise, UNLESS you score no points at all on a new ball, then you get it back.
It has to hit nothing, or almost nothing, and drain.
RM
6 months later
Quoted from pinmister:That may be hard trying to avoid scratching up new decals. Usually the process is backwards where you can take off rails before applying new decals. Now here is the deal-I am going to be replacing rails with new ones anyway(have a new set in box). Can I just pry them off from above with a little heat?-Go backwards?
For the last few years, to remove WPC rails I have been using a no-heat method.
Remove the bolts and screws at the ends (if there are any) and the hinges.
Get some fishing line. I have been using braided line, fairly light like 25-lb.
Get the line in between the old metal rail and the plastic channel, starting at the front. This takes some finagling.
Using a sawing motion, move along underneath the metal rail, cutting the tape with the fishing line as you go.
You do not need to pull very hard, the sawing motion does all the work. I was worried I'd have to use leather gloves; not needed.
The angle you hold the fishing line is key - almost straight down on the cabinet side, and almost horizontal on the playfield side.
You are trying to avoid abrading the line on the edge of the metal rail closest to the playfield.
As I go along, I use small pieces of cardboard as wedges to keep the rail off the cabinet as I cut through the tape.
At the far end, the rail just falls off.
No heat, no prying, no cutting the cabinet decal.
The tape residue left on the cabinet I warm up GENTLY with a hair dryer (OK so some heat is used here) and roll the tape residue off with my fingers and/or a PLASTIC razor blade scraper. Not metal.
Final cleanup with some alcohol.
RussM
Quoted from monkfe:I guess the filament rides on the plastic glass channel guide?
That's exactly what it does.
Main challenge is getting the fishing line into the space between the rail and the plastic channel.
2 people makes that easier; I use my kid to help with that.
The line will abrade a bit and can snap, so you have to keep changing the exact part of the line you are using but as soon as you get the rail off a bit, it's super easy to slip new line back in and keep going.
It takes a little practice to get the angles right.
RM
Quoted from tdtom:Thanks Russ, great idea. I'll try that this weekend before going the heat route.
I had the first partial failure of the fishing line method today taking rails off a CFTBL - I got 2/3rds down one side and just couldn't get past one area - line snapped over and over. Had to use the sharp putty knife and padding to get past that; some metal burr or break in the plastic channel kept cutting the line.
Oh well; nothing's perfect.
RM
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