Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider EvanDickson.
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I'm new to the club! Got it home today. It's a little more of a project than I expected, but nothing I can't deal with I don't think.
I wonder about a could of things... In the following pictures, is it normal for the one Target to be flat vs the round ones around it? Or is this a hack?
Also, it's been a while, but I thought the bookcase was blue. Is orange normal?
IMG_20190127_222508474 (resized).jpgIMG_20190127_222514635 (resized).jpgAwesome thanks! A couple follow-up questions.
ROMs! It seems people don't prefer the gold roms that this machine has installed. There are a lot of versions, what version do people best?
Also, this board has been added, does anyone know what it's for? It looks like it runs to the audio board and to the topper.
IMG_20190128_082552163 (resized).jpgQuoted from fatality83:I was looking to touch up the paint by my flipper buttons, it has worn off slightly on the one side. Does anyone have any ideas what type or exact color of paint to get to match. I am guessing a black gloss, but if someone can point me to the exact paint code I would appreciate it.
I don't know if it exists in the USA, but my local Benjamin Moore store actually has a color called "pinball black". It was a very pleasant and convenient surprise when I found that.
Quoted from Arcade:The gold Roms are awesome. But only for casual play. If you like competition or tournament play then the regular roms are the way to go.
The problems are many with using gold Roms for tournaments but here are a couple:
Cousin it’s hidden items in the rooms are worth a wide range of points and if someone gets the gold watch compared to say a hair dryer then they have a huge scoring advantage.
Also the game randomly gives out Super Seance where all shots are worth a lot more then the regular Seance someone else may get.
But if just playing for fun all the extra voice callouts and modes are fun.
I'd definitely rather competitive ROMs. It seems like L5 would be the way to go, L7 is only for color dmd? Are the differences up to l5 all good bug fixes? I know with getaway every version is buggy and preferences vary a lot.
Either hack, sound vs lights, or pop sounds, is weird hack. Why people? :p
This thing is turning out to be quite a basket case. I can fix it all at this point in life, I have the parts and know enough. But wow, so many things to do on it. :p
Quoted from fatality83:What does advance x do and how do you get it? There is nothing in the manual that explains this. I am assuming you have to make a shot through the pop bumbers and around the back to the back of the bookcase
It is lit by the ball dropping through the right return lane, then you have to make the left loop, in between all the jet bumpers, within a few seconds. It is a bonus multiplier, but I think only on bear kicks etc, not on mamushka or hit cousin it points.
Ok, I have a game play / rules question. Any time I manage to get THING lit, and then get the ball to thing, he picks it up, I get my 5M points, and then Gomez says "no no no" and thing puts the ball back. Is the "no no no" just a quote from the movie? And should it always put the ball back? Or have I done something wrong like not manage to light up both star lights (which seems very hard to do)?
Quoted from floyd1977:Just visiting this thread for the first time in a while. I don't know if you ever resolved this. This may be normal. Keep in mind you can also trigger mansion modes with bear ramp shots (15, 25, etc.).
Swamp will start mansion rooms, same as the chair.
One good thing about TAF is that I never overcook my dinner because I'm in the middle of a good game that goes on forever. A great game lasts 3 minutes. :p
I figure this thing is going to force me to be a better player since EVERYTHING directs the ball STDM. Don't quite get the ball into the vault? It runs back off the side of the bookcase and SDTM. Right loop and forget to nudge? Then right through the middle of the jets it goes and SDTM. Not quite enough power to make the middle ramp, back down and SDTM it goes. Hit the chair but not perfectly centered, slingshots the ball back to SDTM. The design is cruel!
How easy is it for most people to hit the right ramp from the right flipper? I can make it sometimes, but often can't get quite enough power, is much easier done from the left flipper. Not sure if as designed, or if something is off.
Also, does anyone else have an issue with the alignment of plunger tip to ball? To get a solid hit on the ball, I would have to cut the cabinet a bit to better align the plunger to ball. Not sure if that's common, or what people do when they have that.
Last question, when the swamp kicks the ball out, it tends to glance off the right slingshot. Normal behaviour? Or does something need tweaking here?
Quoted from jp1985:On my machine some shots to the right ramp from right flipper have felt like they were lacking power to the point that I rebuilt the right flipper, it’s just as hard to get the shot.
Awesome, thanks, good to know! I was thinking of rebuilding the flippers, but won't go to the trouble if there's no actual issue.
Due to age and wear and such, my plunger didn't line up well enough with the ball to get a full plunge. Sometimes it could make the loop, sometimes it could only make the skill shot, sometimes a full plunge would end up in the swamp.
So I made a thing! I modeled and printed an adapter to protect the launch and raise the ball a bit to meet the plunger. It's not perfect, but now the skill shot is a real skill shot again!
IMG_20190320_123923419 (resized).jpgIMG_20190320_123930176 (resized).jpgIMG_20190320_123954451 (resized).jpgIMG_20190320_124000767 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Coyote:That is neat - especially sicne I could never design anything "3D" like that.
However, I am curious - did you try adjusting your plunger? And even fully adjusted it was off that much? That's surprising..
I adjusted my plunger as much as possible, but I would have to cut into the cabinet to adjust it enough to make a difference.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Sounds like the front playfield hangers are bent or sagging.
Or possibly the lockdown assembly is at the incorrect height?
The hangers can be bent/adjusted to gain quite a bit of height or even lowered.
They don't like it, but I never thought of that. U can probably drill new holes in the apron and hang the whole thing slightly higher. Looks like there's a half inch or so of wiggle room before apron starts to interfere with play field glass.
Quoted from pinballinreno:For the most part you just bend the hangers up or down in a vice or something to get things to match up.
It also possible that they are the wrong ones.
There are a couple different drop lengths. Also might be stern hangers.
Measure yours and maybe get these:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11401
You can also put fender washers between the playfield and the hanger to raise it if its sagging and adjust the upper holes/slots in the hanger for the apron with a dremel if needed.
Wrong hangers makes sense. This TAF is a Frankenstein of parts from TAF and a TAFG. Could be other random parts in here too.
Quoted from metahugh:The short are the ones that match TAF.
[quoted image]
Those are what I got. Something's just out of whack. I removed the overly complicated fix and printed 1/2" spacers to raise the pf on the hanger. Works great, although I can't screw the apron into the hanger now and the apron is practically touching the glass, which looks a little unusual.
IMG_20190325_204113657 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:That looks right.
So, if the lockbar receiver isn't 1/2" lower than the front edge of the cabinet, then the plunger cut-out must have been reworked.
It should be level with the edge.
I have seen a couple games that someone lowered the lockdown receiver due to stripped out mounting screws. Easy to fix with toothpicks or bamboo skewers and glue.
Your spacers seem to do the trick though, just need to drill out holes for the apron screws.
Hmm. I wonder if the lockdown receiver is too high now.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:While renovating my game I checked the flipper coil markings and realize they don't all match the manual:
---------------Manual---------My game
upper right......FL-11630.........FL-11630
upper left........FL-11753.........FL-15411
lower left........FL-15411.........FL-11753
lower right......FL-15411.........no idea - wrapping paper missing
It seems like a previous owner swapped the upper left and lower left coils by mistake, or is there actually a good reason for my current coil configuration?
Also, the lower right coil is missing the paper, can I measure the resistance to find out which type it is?
You'll probably want to swap them back. That coil would be weak for a main flipper. From Marco:
FL-11753 Yellow - Used with short flippers and close shots
FL-11722 Green - Used for close shots near drop targets
FL-11630 Red - The standard, most commonly used coil
FL-15411 Orange - Used for long playfield shots
FL-11629 Blue - Used for long shots and high ramps
Speaking of which, does anyone have 11629 for their flippers? I'm wondering if that would give the game a little extra pep, or if they would be too strong.
Left and Right magnet not firing. It's a board issue, but Q32 and Q44 check out ok. What am I missing?
The magnets are good. I can swap power boards with another machine and they work. So the issue is on the board. But when I test Q32 and Q44, they seem to be ok. Someone talk sense to me, what am I missing?
Update: me = dumb. I think this was just a loose connector, hence working when I swapped the boards, connectors got put on snugly in place. Swap back and the magnets are all good now.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Some are to correct ball hangs, others you can put anywhere you like.
There is some randomness to them.
Sweet tip, thanks!
Ok thanks all! I'll transfer these, or replace if they get destroyed during removal.
New question:
There's a post to the left of the two bottom pops. Spec days I should use the yellow tapered rubber with a nylon spacer. My Addams had just a black sleeve, and honestly the tapered yellow would get squished and deformed if I installed it. Does anyone know if there's a specific reason the tapered is called for? Sleeve looks to make more sense.
IMG_20211229_203514886~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:thats a location for a black sleeve
The tapered yellow goes under the ramp:
[quoted image]
I couldn't find a similar pic anywhere, that one is perfect, thank you!
I'm restoring my Addams, and have progressed to the last few bits topside, including the thing box. I'm restoring all parts from gold to standard, and noticed with the wear at the joints that the gold is just the red with gold spray. For some reason it entertains me that they put gold paint on the red, and now I'm going to put red paint back over the gold. "Not so fast buster" spritz spritz.
IMG_20220101_195637438~2 (resized).jpgWhile I have this bit wide open, here's another pic. Anyone who has Addams, and has an issue with the ball sometimes getting stuck in the swamp, and also has a 3d printer (or a friend with one) needs to print this mod. It can be found on thingiverse, and it's really handy. Hats off to whoever modeled it.
IMG_20220101_200953384~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Add 4 spotlights.
Use purple LEDs. Its really nice.
How do these work? Are they just added inline with existing gi? And where do you place them?
Anyone got a pic of spotlights in their TAF?
Quoted from TronGuy:where should I get an NVram for my friends Addams family?
thank you
Nvram.weebly.com should do the trick, assuming they are available these days
Quoted from Shredder565:Howdy Folks. I've been told it's OK to double post in two threads, so here we go .
I'm assembling my first EVER pinball machine, and it's my favorite, Addams family. i'm probably about 75% done.. with a completed and working cabinet. it's the playfield that's slowing things down.
Right now, I'm trying to focus on getting the remaining switches installed..but first the have to be assembled, and with never having seen them completed, it's a tough job figuring out if they are right or not.
The one on now, is the ball gate. I'm assuming this one goes on the ramp by the bear kick. only have a few more after this, and then it's on to the knocker and other equipment for under the playfield...so any help with assembled pictures will speed things along
thanks![quoted image]
I hope these help.
IMG_20220110_230729427 (resized).jpgIMG_20220110_230736604 (resized).jpgIMG_20220110_230751948 (resized).jpgIMG_20220110_230759477 (resized).jpgQuoted from LTG:I hope you bend the front switch lug with white wire and black end of diode forward. Balls have hit it back into the center lug with the green wire.
LTG : )
Jeeze, I just post a couple pics and Lloyd tells me to get bent. 
Nice catch Lloyd, good eye, thanks. I've bent it back now.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, that was where I THOUGHT it should go, but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get it in that s mall hole. I finally found you could squeeze it through without damaging it, so that's what I did.
And I placed them sideways because that's how it sort of looked in the picture on the bag. guess was wrong on that one.
So, apart from that extra tubing, assuming I understood everything properly, does this look correct? I feel like i might still be mis understanding something.
[quoted image]
Those assy are so clean and shiny. I think this counts as pinball pr0n.
Quoted from radium:That board goes around here (Circled red), I’ll try to find a photo if someone else doesn’t
[quoted image]
IMG_20220113_213459699 (resized).jpg
There *should* be some dimpling as a location guide. But I dunno that precision location is required, there's no moving parts.
Do I have a crazy Addams pf? In doing my swap, I find that I have a post by the saucer, which is outlined in the artwork, that does not exist on new pf from either CPR or Mirco. But they make their pf work original silk screens, so I'm confused by not just the lack of post hole, but the difference in paint where the post goes.
Does anyone else have this post on their original Addams pf?
IMG_20220126_094820376~2 (resized).jpgIMG_20220126_094954422~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from glpinball:No post.
[quoted image]
Sweet, thanks for the confirmation. I don't really want to drill into the new pf if not necessary.
What's that saucer protector, is it 3d printed?
Quoted from Barr993:That goes on the top right pop next to the ramp, it's cut so it doesn't overhang the ramp
Aha, I see where you mean. Probably didn't affect performance, but a cleaner sight line is nice. Great design! Thanks for the answer!
IMG_20211230_090609027~2 (resized).jpgFor people who have powder coated their armor and/or the wireform, what color did you use? And if you were to do it again, would you choose that color or a different one?
Quoted from glpinball:Well, mine is smoke. Dunno if its original or not but I suspect it ia.
Mine is smoke, and I'm sure no one ever upgraded a single part in the thing
I find that the placement of the rivets, screws on polar bear ramp are far enough from the edge of the ramp that the ball could "bump" over them (usually the rivets are close enough to the edge that a ball could never touch them). I'm worried that this will mean scratching of the ball, which will then mean scratching of my new play field. Does anyone know if there's ramp protectors that would keep the ball from hitting the rivets?
IMG_20220314_103226481 (resized).jpgQuoted from orangegsx:I wanted to get some clear over the edges of all the holes to maybe stop it from chipping in the future.
That's the opposite of what you want. Check out the VID thread on playfield restoration. You'll want to remove clear at the edge of holes, certainly any that screws go in to, or wire guides, otherwise the pressure from the hardware will cause chips and lifting of the clear. Other holes with clearance, like posts that go through and are held in by a nut under the playfield, should be ok.
Quoted from DuffysArcade:Is a countersink drill the best way to do this? I experienced damage on a Mirco playfield by the sharp edges left when he routed the PF after clearcoating, and now I'm just starting the topside populating on a CPR pf. Should I pre-drill and then countersink all holes?
With my restore, I've first been using brad-tipped drill bits to cut the clear around holes. I select one that's just larger than the the hole size I need or if a screw is going in the hole then just larger than the screw's thread diameter, and slowly run in reverse to cut away the clear. Brad tipped bits have a center point, which keeps things centered around the hole, and outer points, which cut away the clear for me. My PF is CPR and with a few exceptions, most holes are pilot holes rather than finished size. So once I've cut the clear with the brad tip, I'm comfortable pre-drilling screw holes to the spec for screw sizes. I did do a small counter sink on holes for screws, but not for through holes for posts. The exception to this process was for the spiral-fin screw things for pops, which live in counter sunk holes. Brad tip was no use here, so I used a regular drill bit in reverse, very slowly, to grind away the clear.
Quoted from DuffysArcade:Great info. Thanks! Glad I haven't progressed too far on my ES topside build so I'll implement these processes as I'm reassembling.
I just reread and editted my post slightly. For holes that a screw is going in to, I actually select the brad tip to be slightly larger than the screw thread outer diameter, not the hole. Otherwise the threads will be pushing against the edges of the clear as the screw is driven in, risking chipping.
Quoted from Shredder565:still a little confused on the pops. didn't see it in the manual I have, just how to build the main unit.
I know this looks wrong.[quoted image]
Leaf switch goes on the same side of the flange as the spoon.
IMG_20220706_182827381 (resized).jpgQuoted from Playdium:The manual shows 2 purple plastic posts, (#03-8319). Where were these originally placed?
PXL_20230223_222202460~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from gac:I believe these are supposed to be double ring posts.
Huh. You're right. I based mine on someone else's restore notes somewhere, because the manual doesn't list post locations, only part numbers. I went to look at reference pics from IPDB after you posted this and yeah, clear double ring posts.
Playdium I gave you bad advice!
I can't even find pictures on google that show where they're used. Maybe use them somewhere, if you feel like, but no one ever does?
About a year ago, I could have sworn I saw a "Bear kick champion" on an Addams in the wild, and thought it was pretty good that someone got 40+ bear kicks with the weak flippers on the thing. Except my Addams doesn't record initials for Bear Kick Champion. Am I crazy, and remembering a thing that doesn't exist? Or does it actually exist, maybe on the gold roms, or some hacked roms?
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