Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider CoolCatPinball.
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Should be joining the club officially early next week! This has been a grail title for me for many many years. One finally popped up at a good price and close enough driving distance. AND, it didn't get snatched up before I could have a shot at it! Super excited to be joining soon!
Quoted from Pinhead1982:I have that exact thing, I really like it
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I like it! But, is that the black and white version, or the DuoTone gold ish version?
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Exciting. I got one at a good price earlier in the year. Collecting parts for a full restore. Super fun pin.
Nice! I'm sure I'll start collecting parts as well as soon as I pick it up!
Has anyone tried putting slightly stronger coils in the upper right and left flippers? My upper right gets spongy after a few games, and the left mini flipper is about useless at any time. The main flippers feel ok.
Quoted from LTG:Rebuilt, or everything clean and working ?
Your game. Do what you want to make it play the way you want.
Upper left - if you change it you'll need to go into settings and hit New Location, so after ten games or so thing flips relearns the shot.
LTG : )
Just acquired it. I'm going to tear the mechs down and clean them first. I'm just curious if anyone else has actually done it. Good tip about Thing flips! I had no idea it actually learned the shot.
Quoted from LTG:You hit the trifecta. Coil stop worn. Plunger worn. Plastic link between plunger and pawl cracked.
May as well rebuild all four flippers.
When you do be sure and hit new location in settings so thing flips starts learning the shot with new parts.
LTG : )
Already did it. I'm just sharing my jackpot winnings! 
Thanks for the heads up on the menu settings
Quoted from Walamab:Hello everyone.
I'm looking for suggestions for how to keep the yellow lamp from constantly coming out of the electric chair socket. It is a wedge type. I've considered pulling the chair and changing to a bayonet, but I don't think there is room in the chair for a bayonet socket.
I've tried adjusting the metal contacts in the wedge socket to provide more friction but, so far it hasn't helped.
Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
I just enlarged the hole on my chair a bit so it doesn't put pressure on the bulb. It went through a long night of playing w no issues. Now I've removed the chair again for a custom paint job.
Quoted from PolePosition:Next question. I just bought a repro playfield from CPR (current non-silkscreened run), overall its ok, there's a couple dust bunnies in the clear that I'll have to figure out. My bigger concern relates to the shooter lane groove. The repro is much shorter than the original. On my original, the groove goes up almost to where the blue ink begins, whereas the repro groove only extends about 3 inches up from the switch cutout before it becomes completely flat. Is this going to be a problem? I don't want to find out after swapping in the playfield. Regrooving and re-clearing are beyond my skillset or comfort level.
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I've swapped a few playfields from CPR and one from Mirco. A few tiny imperfections are to be expected. I'd just ignore them unless they are bad. Once you get everything re assembled and play a hundred games or so, no one is going to notice anything anyway. Don't sweat the small stuff. Good luck on the swap, and congrats on the Addams. I just got one as well.
Quoted from PolePosition:Most of the dust bunnies are out of the main view, but this one I don't know what I should do about, its front and center in the mansion. You can feel the bump. Is it possible to do a very localized sanding of say 1000 grit, followed by polishing, or would I need to do the whole playfield?
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I'd start as mild as possible. Like Novus 1. Localized, and gentle. See how it works. Only step up to more aggressive polish if needed. Novus 2, 3, etc. I'm not bold enough to try straight up sand paper on a new playfield, but I'm sure it's been done before. I certainly wouldn't mess with the whole playfield unless you're capable of clearing and polishing the whole thing to match. And, obviously I can't see the defect in person, but you might consider just ignoring it altogether. Playing the game will diminish the spot over time.
My original translight looked fine when the game was turned off, but looked awful when lit up due to age and yellowing on the backside. I tried cool white LEDs to no avail. So, I went ahead and ordered a CPR mirrored. It's not my first CPR, but I must share the results. Brighter illumination, and the blinker lights actually show up. Looks awesome. CPR for the win!
20221017_184304 (resized).jpgSo, the area around the upper right flipper, bookcase, and center ramp is unnecessarily dark, especially in a dark room. Good mounting locations for spotlights are scarce. I put my modest brainpower to work and created a simple bracket that holds 2 spotlights. It tucks behind Festers chair so it's not an eyesore and it doesn't shine in the players eyes. Ties into the GI directly below. I'm super happy with the results! Being able to actually see the upper flipper and ball really helps to time those jackpot shots!
20221025_184910 (resized).jpg20221025_184924 (resized).jpg20221025_184938 (resized).jpgQuoted from lhammer610:I just installed a Pinsound card in my TAF and new speakers.
I downloaded all the sound files from Pinsound and my initial feeling is that they are terrible.
I like the Pinsound for LOTR and Tommy, so this is especially disappointing.
Are there any other sound files someplace else that are better?
If not, I guess my next step is to invest tons of hours into going through the movies and making new files - after I figure out how to do it.
My only experience with Pinsound is with BSD, and it is freaking AMAZING!! Game changer, literally. So, when I finally got an Addams Family, I started looking at videos of pinsound for the title. I was underwhelmed to say the least. What a letdown. One video I watched actually had "the monster mash" song playing at certain times........ wtf??? Someone who knows Pinsound programming, and is an Addams fan, really really needs to give this game the Pinsound love it deserves.
Quoted from Asanteiro:Hello people !! I'm inside!! from Argentina I will be with you!!
many things to improve .. but the road must be enjoyed!
greetings to all
Alex !!!
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Awesome, congratulations!!
Quoted from Miguel351:So, does anybody make a thing box accelerator yet? It would definitely help speed that transfer up a bit, especially for people with games set up a bit flatter than average. Seems like it'd be a pretty easy mod to make with an equally easy install. Any takers/makers? Or should I just go ahead and start the process myself?
I might be interested in something like this depending on cost and installation difficulty
Quoted from pinmister:WOW-what a difference. I am leaning this direction but thinking of doing the mirror blades instead. Need to take off my side rails to send to powder coating but worried about gouging the new art on cabinet. Want a friend to help me with trying to protect art with microfiber cloth and then wedging a putty blade in between to break tape. Any other suggestions? Was thinking about a heat gun-but again do not want to mess up new art on cabinet.
Heat makes a world of difference. Maybe just try a hair dryer. It typically can't get hot enough to damage decals, but still use caution. Also, I never put new tape back in. Just in case the rails ever have to come off again.
Quoted from RussMyers:For the last few years, to remove WPC rails I have been using a no-heat method.
Remove the bolts and screws at the ends (if there are any) and the hinges.
Get some fishing line. I have been using braided line, fairly light like 25-lb.
Get the line in between the old metal rail and the plastic channel, starting at the front. This takes some finagling.
Using a sawing motion, move along underneath the metal rail, cutting the tape with the fishing line as you go.
You do not need to pull very hard, the sawing motion does all the work. I was worried I'd have to use leather gloves; not needed.
The angle you hold the fishing line is key - almost straight down on the cabinet side, and almost horizontal on the playfield side.
You are trying to avoid abrading the line on the edge of the metal rail closest to the playfield.
As I go along, I use small pieces of cardboard as wedges to keep the rail off the cabinet as I cut through the tape.
At the far end, the rail just falls off.
No heat, no prying, no cutting the cabinet decal.
The tape residue left on the cabinet I warm up GENTLY with a hair dryer (OK so some heat is used here) and roll the tape residue off with my fingers and/or a PLASTIC razor blade scraper. Not metal.
Final cleanup with some alcohol.
RussM
Great idea!!
Quoted from Playdium:I just disassembled the bookcase assembly. Of course the short plastic arm broke while driving out the roll pin. (Parts already on order) Drilled out the rivets on the motor case, and cleaned and lubed the gear assembly.
So while I have this apart, what decal sets are available? I saw one that had a wooden floor which looked pretty cool, but no longer available. I also liked the bookcase mod someone here made up.
Tilt Graphics has the decals you need. As far as the book case mod, I ordered a very nice set off of Etsy. Came with switch covers, book case, and some LED covers. Really looks sharp.
Quoted from Playdium:Thanks, I just ordered the decals. Was the bookcase from the guy in Europe?
From PPMODS in Belgium. Parts fit well and look excellent. Not cheap, but such a nice improvement.
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Knoxville, TN
