(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome

By mima

10 years ago


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There are 6,565 posts in this topic. You are on page 97 of 132.
#4801 2 years ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Need replacement sockets for the lights in TAF topper and they look like they are slightly different from the sockets under the playfield. Can someone confirm and if I am right point me to where I can pick up the correct lamp sockets?

Here you go. Have one all torn down. These use 906 wedge sockets.

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#4802 2 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Here you go. Have one all torn down. These use 906 wedge sockets.

Thanks so much!

#4803 2 years ago

For people who have powder coated their armor and/or the wireform, what color did you use? And if you were to do it again, would you choose that color or a different one?

#4804 2 years ago

Anybody know if the Grey topper on Addams Family original from the factory? Or were they clear?

FB_IMG_1646611448401 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1646611448401 (resized).jpg
#4805 2 years ago
Quoted from addams40:

Anybody know if the Grey topper on Addams Family original from the factory? Or were they clear?
[quoted image]

Clear

#4806 2 years ago

Thanks Thoght so. Was clear on their Flyer

#4807 2 years ago
Quoted from addams40:

Thanks Thoght so. Was clear on their Flyer

I think the originals were all “smoke” or gray as you mention. The clear and black toppers were all aftermarket products.

#4808 2 years ago
Quoted from gac:

I think the originals were all “smoke” or gray as you mention. The clear and black toppers were all aftermarket products.

I have had 8 originals, 7 were smoke one was clear.

I think the clear was a replacement.

In my opinion, the smoke shows the lighting better. On the clear the lighting goes unnoticed for the most part.

However if you use colored (purple) LEDs the clear might be a better choice, it looks cool.

#4809 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Here ya go.
[quoted image]

Food for thought:
I put the thing magnet wires in a electrical nylon sleeve.
The sleeve helps keep the wires from getting nicked from the ball drop.
The one on location, the wires got pulverized and broke.

#4810 2 years ago

Maybe I'm wrong. I could have sworn that clear was original. Hard to tell on the flyer.

#4811 2 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Maybe I'm wrong. I could have sworn that clear was original. Hard to tell on the flyer.

Well, mine is smoke. Dunno if its original or not but I suspect it ia.

#4812 2 years ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Well, mine is smoke. Dunno if its original or not but I suspect it ia.

Mine is smoke, and I'm sure no one ever upgraded a single part in the thing

#4813 2 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Maybe I'm wrong. I could have sworn that clear was original. Hard to tell on the flyer.

Yeah I thought Smoke was original the same way the smoke ramps were original.

#4814 2 years ago

I got mine in the late 90s and it is smoked. I dont think it was ever replaced.

#4815 2 years ago

There is usually one of the machine's serial number stickers on the topper as well I believe (like on the cabinet and the boards). I've only seen the stickers on smoked toppers.

IMG_4124 (resized).jpgIMG_4124 (resized).jpg
#4816 2 years ago

Honestly, I prefer the translucent black version.

IMG_4123 (resized).jpgIMG_4123 (resized).jpg
#4817 2 years ago

Have a routed Addams Family that I just started to maintain and discovered light battery acid damage at the bottoms of two batteries. Visually from the front of the board, the damage seems to have been contained to the battery holder terminals themselves. Cleaned the visible acid damage from the battery holder with alcohol and lightly with a picking tool and installed new batteries that I know are good, but the machine reverts to factory settings upon reboot even after new settings are punched in. Otherwise, everything works perfectly in the machine, so I'm puzzled. Is it worth replacing the battery holder? Any other ideas?

Below is a photo of the board AFTER I cleaned off the acid and installed new batteries.

TAF Batteries (resized).JPGTAF Batteries (resized).JPG
#4818 2 years ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Have a routed Addams Family that I just started to maintain and discovered light battery acid damage at the bottoms of two batteries. Visually from the front of the board, the damage seems to have been contained to the battery holder terminals themselves. Cleaned the visible acid damage from the battery holder with alcohol and lightly with a picking tool and installed new batteries that I know are good, but the machine reverts to factory settings upon reboot even after new settings are punched in. Otherwise, everything works perfectly in the machine, so I'm puzzled. Is it worth replacing the battery holder? Any other ideas?
Below is a photo of the board AFTER I cleaned off the acid and installed new batteries.
[quoted image]

Dude. Serious. No Duracell. Anything but. Also, lithium.

#4819 2 years ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Is it worth replacing the battery holder?

So you get a good luck underneath it, yes.

Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Any other ideas?

Grab you meter and see if battery power is getting onto the board. Easy to lose continuity on the pads that grip the battery ends to the board.

LTG : )

#4820 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

So you get a good luck underneath it, yes.

Quoted from JOESCHALL:
Any other ideas?

Grab you meter and see if battery power is getting onto the board. Easy to lose continuity on the pads that grip the battery ends to the board.

Thanks much. Will do.

#4821 2 years ago

I find that the placement of the rivets, screws on polar bear ramp are far enough from the edge of the ramp that the ball could "bump" over them (usually the rivets are close enough to the edge that a ball could never touch them). I'm worried that this will mean scratching of the ball, which will then mean scratching of my new play field. Does anyone know if there's ramp protectors that would keep the ball from hitting the rivets?

IMG_20220314_103226481 (resized).jpgIMG_20220314_103226481 (resized).jpg
#4822 2 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

I find that the placement of the rivets, screws on polar bear ramp are far enough from the edge of the ramp that the ball could "bump" over them (usually the rivets are close enough to the edge that a ball could never touch them). I'm worried that this will mean scratching of the ball, which will then mean scratching of my new play field. Does anyone know if there's ramp protectors that would keep the ball from hitting the rivets?[quoted image]

The rivets should be plated brass. They wont scratch the ball. They will flatten out over time.

#4823 2 years ago

Sorry to interrupt. We have been out of bear rugs for quite a while as our source dried up. We now have a new version available that we have designed. It is more durable and detailed than the previous version. For a limited time, we are running a sale on them for $40 (normally $62) plus $0.99 shipping. These are now available on our website.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/the-addams-family-pinball-illuminated-bear-rug-mod

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#4824 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Sorry to interrupt. We have been out of bear rugs for quite a while as our source dried up. We now have a new version available that we have designed. It is more durable and detailed than the previous version. For a limited time, we are running a sale on them for $40 (normally $62) plus $0.99 shipping. These are now available on our website.
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/the-addams-family-pinball-illuminated-bear-rug-mod
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Looks good. I ordered one.

#4825 2 years ago

Lol… that bear sticker on the target…

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#4826 2 years ago

I found this 906 flasher bulb and socket on the floor of my cabinet... it didn't fall out of the pcb's for the topper flashers and I didn't see anywhere else it could have come from. Any ideas?

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#4827 2 years ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

I found this 906 flasher bulb and socket on the floor of my cabinet... it didn't fall out of the pcb's for the topper flashers and I didn't see anywhere else it could have come from. Any ideas?
[quoted image]

One of the plastics or ramp?

#4828 2 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

One of the plastics or ramp?

The flashers on the ramps and plastics on mine are all grey (I think?) with solder tails. This one looks like a PCB mount socket but I could be wrong.

#4829 2 years ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

The flashers on the ramps and plastics on mine are all grey (I think?) with solder tails. This one looks like a PCB mount socket but I could be wrong.

I hear you but having just done another playfield swap, there’s a handful. Put yours in test and check all lamps and flashers. That’s the best way to know.

#4830 2 years ago

See the three areas it could have come from circled in red. Likely not the wireform as I believe that is a hard mount and not a twist to remove.

TAF flashers (resized).jpgTAF flashers (resized).jpg

#4831 2 years ago

Thanks dmacy it was the train flasher. Didn't realize there was a PCB under the plastic.

#4832 2 years ago

My Addams coin door lamps do not work (2 slots)

Never have now that I think about it

New bulbs and wiring in the head looks fine

In manual shows from coin door board it’s Row 1 but don’t see anything that stands out

Any help is greatly appreciated

No big deal if that stay out as mentioned never really noticed they were not lit until today

#4833 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Any help is greatly appreciated

Get a meter. Check where you have power and where not.

And check continuity of wiring.

Miss a connector on the driver board ?

LTG : )

#4834 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

We have been out of bear rugs for quite a while as our source dried up.

I used to find these all the time on eBay when I was actively looking for them. They're Playmobil Bear Rugs from an Indian set of some sort. People sell them separately all the time. I bought one, cleaned it up and painted it with some Krylon Fusion and it was good to go. Mounted it with some adhesive backed velcro so it could easily be removed for servicing the ramp or whatever and since it's mounted to a piece of stainless steel, cleanup would be a breeze, if the next owner of my TAF didn't want it. I didn't do any LEDs in it as it's just to something I wanted to do at the time. I think I was all in at around 10 bucks, at the time.

I just checked eBay and there are a few on there. Apparently prices have gone up a bit on them, but not by much. Kinda proves that for those that want these mods and want them with LEDs, 40 bucks is a pretty good deal considering the time it takes to modify them and parts to add to them.

#4835 2 years ago

So I am working on an Addams right now giving it a tear down shop with new ramps, rubber, and new led lamps as the old ones were all cool white and an older version that didn’t illuminate very well like the current ones. I notice there is a row of lamps out. I pull out the manual, “red yellow wire on j133 driver Q87” I follow this path and wiring test good, move on to the driver board, I found the issue. Not sure why someone would do this and not replace with a new component before reinstalling.

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#4836 2 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

I used to find these all the time on eBay when I was actively looking for them. They're Playmobil Bear Rugs from an Indian set of some sort. People sell them separately all the time. I bought one, cleaned it up and painted it with some Krylon Fusion and it was good to go. Mounted it with some adhesive backed velcro so it could easily be removed for servicing the ramp or whatever and since it's mounted to a piece of stainless steel, cleanup would be a breeze, if the next owner of my TAF didn't want it. I didn't do any LEDs in it as it's just to something I wanted to do at the time. I think I was all in at around 10 bucks, at the time.
I just checked eBay and there are a few on there. Apparently prices have gone up a bit on them, but not by much. Kinda proves that for those that want these mods and want them with LEDs, 40 bucks is a pretty good deal considering the time it takes to modify them and parts to add to them.

Yeah, we used to use those, but they do not take paint well. If you just make it for yourself, it’s probably fine, but when you ship them painted and then have others handling them, the paint tends to crack and peel away, even when primed first. It was a pain to sell so we stopped. This new version is made in white so no painting is needed and it’s more rigid, overall better quality.

#4837 2 years ago

Finishing up my first TAF.

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#4838 2 years ago

My game rattles like crazy when the cabinet speaker gets loud - especially when multiball starts. Any tips to make it quiet? I shimmed the back glass but it’s still really loud… can’t tell exactly where it’s coming from.

#4839 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Now that my restoration is soon to be finished, I figured that I would share what mods I have added to my TAF and what they look like (sorry for somewhat poor image quality).
___________________________________________________

[quoted image]
Due to the darkness of the back of the playfield I added a blue led at the back of the thing-ramp and a GI-LED in the middle of the back-lane.
[quoted image]
https://imgproxy.pinside.com/eF_aFCEZTc876DANzZo_W46TmfMpQ74o3G8ulaYNGFc/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tLzkvZDQvZWEvOWQ0ZWFiMGMwYTc5M2ZhYmU0MjhhYzBjMzNlMjQyMTAyM2VhNWQ2NS5wbmc
Cheers
//Micael

Where did you position the lamp for the LED lighting up the center back lane that feeds to The Thing? Do you have a photo?

I tried to put a lamp on the right side, but it interfered with the ramp.

Right now, I have one hidden under the plastic to the left and it is shooting the light through the narrow gap on that side. It looks OK. That is what is lit up in the photo.

I am finishing up a playfield transfer and want to add colors and light to various places.

I wish that there was someplace to look at DIY mods like this - all in one place with install info. Plus, what colors seem to work best for the swamp and chair?

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png66967487704__DBAFEB93-3982-4FDE-99ED-E15353296139 (resized).jpg66967487704__DBAFEB93-3982-4FDE-99ED-E15353296139 (resized).jpg
#4840 2 years ago

I just posted a TAF/TAFG IGT Topper/Table Stand Light in the Marketplace. I thought some Addams fans might like to see it here!

Would be great if you wanted to lose your broken up cloud. Or just use in your cave next to the machine!

IMG_2802 (resized).jpegIMG_2802 (resized).jpegIMG_2804 (resized).jpegIMG_2804 (resized).jpeg
Added 23 months ago:

Now sold. Thanks for looking!

#4841 2 years ago

1500.00? I think I will pass.

#4842 2 years ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

I just posted a TAF/TAFG IGT Topper/Table Stand Light in the Marketplace. I thought some Addams fans might like to see it here!
Would be great if you wanted to lose your broken up cloud. Or just use in your cave next to the machine!
[quoted image][quoted image]

That’s super cool

#4843 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Get a meter. Check where you have power and where not.
And check continuity of wiring.
Miss a connector on the driver board ?
LTG : )

Your the Best Lloyd

Was a bad wire it was a in the connector but brittle and not making a connection

Let there finally be ‘coin door’ light !!

2AF18EEA-E73D-47E0-84EE-170C8686AC01 (resized).jpeg2AF18EEA-E73D-47E0-84EE-170C8686AC01 (resized).jpeg

#4844 2 years ago

Finally set up my completely trashed TAF.

I got most of the broken stuff fixed.

The flipper switches are so corroded and worn they need to be replaced. They dont even work properly after filing them down.

I decided to just put in the "Gold Edition" electronic switches instead of buying new $20 unreliable "old school" switches.

More info on this upgrade can be found here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/converting-taf-flippers-from-leaf-switch-to-optical-boards

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#4845 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Finally set up my completely trashed TAF.
I got most of the broken stuff fixed.
The flipper switches are so corroded and worn they need to be replaced. They dont even work properly after filing them down.
I decided to just put in the "Gold" electronic switches instead of buying new $20 unreliable "old school" switches:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This solution was fast, easy and incredibly robust.

It took me about 40 mins to install this system.
No real soldering, just a few crimped connectors, and thats it.

However I did have to add an 2 pin header off the coin interface board to power the 12v for the opto boards.
This was not very difficult.

I used "chip quick" to make it very easy to remove the existing solder from the 2 holes.
Its very low temp and keeps you from burning the board.

The flippers are MORE responsive and dont fade as the old contacts oxidize and need cleaning.
This solution will last many years with no need for any adjustment or the filing of the tungsten contacts.

It works so well, I recommend that people do this instead of just putting in new switches.

Its truly like night and day and totally modernizes the system.

#4846 2 years ago

TAF is the first fliptronics game so I assume it is not tungsten contacts but low current (gold?) ones. Filing them might not be a good idea

#4847 2 years ago
Quoted from harig:

TAF is the first fliptronics game so I assume it is not tungsten contacts but low current (gold?) ones. Filing them might not be a good idea

TAF is Fliptronics 1 and has regular "old school" flipper switches, not gold (see the pictures above please).
Although gold switches can probably be used, original games didnt come with them. I think Williams was just using up existing inventory.

All of the regular TAF's I have restored have had beat up tungsten flipper switches. I usually replace them, but they are a pain to adjust. Since this is the last TAF game in my repair queue (and the worst) I decided to upgrade the switches.

TAF "Gold" is fliptronics 2.

The infrastructure is "in-place" for opto switches on a regular TAF.

Its a simple upgrade but plays exceptionally well, and better IMHO.

After doing it, I recommend that all the fliptronic 1 games do the upgrade, (there are only a couple though).

This mostly has to do with eliminating switch adjusting and regular contact cleaning.

Gameplay wise, the flippers are snappier and respond a bit faster.

Perfectly adjusted, brand new "standard" switches also play very well, but this changes as the contacts age and wear.

For the casual "home" player and owner, this upgrade solves tons of issues.

#4848 2 years ago

Here’s a question. I’ve seen convo on LED OCD, but also seeing there’s a GI OCD. I’ve searched through threads on the OCD’s, but can’t parse out if both are really needed as I’m reading some say the GI they didn’t notice a difference except for on certain games.

The LED OCD seems to be the more common one people purchase, though it is out of stock. So want to see what people on here think. Do you have it, which one, and is it a difference maker?

#4849 2 years ago

I'm trying find if anyone has found a good match to the black on the original side art. I have a few minor nicks/scrapes that someone previous attempted to touchup with a flat black, and they really stand out. I'm guessing a satin sheen would be better perhaps? I hear an oil-based paint pen is often used to dress the edge of new decals, so wondering if that would be an option? Any good product recommendations?

I'm also contemplating respraying the inner cab above the playfield line while the playfield is out to dress it up. Which is closer to original, satin or semi-gloss?

Thanks!

#4850 2 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Here’s a question. I’ve seen convo on LED OCD, but also seeing there’s a GI OCD. I’ve searched through threads on the OCD’s, but can’t parse out if both are really needed as I’m reading some say the GI they didn’t notice a difference except for on certain games.
The LED OCD seems to be the more common one people purchase, though it is out of stock. So want to see what people on here think. Do you have it, which one, and is it a difference maker?

Yes you need both if you're going to do it.

Jeff

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