While purple will give the playfield an interesting hue, you may not want it looking like outer space.

I'd stick with whatever color you have in your GI.

I thoght the same.

But it really doesnt make anything purple, it enhances the existing and adds contrast.

Purple did amazing things to my WOZ as far as highlighting detail.

Adding purple spots blends into the existing without making anything actually purple lol.

Would you please post a photo of where you positioned and aimed them?

Not too certain about the purple as I have never been a fan of color GIs. But in spotlights on TAF that might work. I will try them.

These are what I have used in the past.

https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-accent-spotlight-assembly.html

Not sure what you mean here. Do you have an idea of the length?

https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-hex-spacers-14-78-6-32-thread-femalefemale.html

I volunteer at a pinball museum as a tech. We got in a pin that had star posts lights in them. Kept shorting out and blowing the GI fuse. It took us a while to find them. I am going to try that on TAF, but would like to know if anyone else has had issues?

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=abl_SP

I have used similar star posts on my TZ without any issues. Mine are from PinballCenter here in Germany, but they look very similar to the posts sold by Pinball Life. The small circuit boards can be rotated around to suit your needs, so perhaps in your case one of the boards was oriented in such a way as to allow something to short the two terminals together. On TZ I have them rotated so the wiring is well hidden under the rubber rings and can't be hit by the ball.

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Interesting - I’ve put them in a few games and never had a problem.

For spotlights, I used Warm White I believe. I actually have 2 on the left sling, one pointed towards the center and one pointed up to the pops since I put some grave stones on them. On the right I have it pointed a bit more up the playfield. The spotlight on the upper right flipper is aimed towards the vault and is higher for that whole Thing corner where I have a knight statue. The left spotlight where the left ramp meets the wire form points towards the center more.

Getting a set of these these is what I did and clone them :

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/spotlight-kit

Just FYI, I like using star post LEDs, but I shorted one out once by touching to something metal. Now I always place a thin piece of electrical tape over the exposed area on each LED to protect them.

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I'd consider getting one of Victor Tan's boards. He has a thread under his handle Dumbass. He uses modern components so the 5V to the MPU is much more stable. I think Rottendog's have this improvement too. I used his MPU, WPC-SND, and WPC power driver boards in my TAF build. They work flawlessly.

where should I get an NVram for my friends Addams family?

thank you

Nvram.weebly.com should do the trick, assuming they are available these days

Who is going to install it? Like all WPC games, the RAM in TAF is soldered onto the CPU board. It has to be removed and anyone who does not have extensive board experience will have problems with this. The traces are small and easily damaged.

For WPC games, I just install one of those watch coin batteries. They last about 3 years and rarely leak. Although I usually drill a small hole, you don't have to do that. The watch battery holder will just barely sit on top of one of the components at the top of the battery holder area.

If you decide to go NVRAM, be sure to remove the battery holder. That will give you a chance to check for battery leakage underneath the holder and will prevent any future owners from putting in AA batteries.

https://homepinballrepair.com/how-to-get-rid-of-those-aa-batteries-no-more-ruined-circuit-boards/#watch

Just install lithium batteries in your regular AA battery holder and skip all of this.

I like the "Franks coin battery mod" a lot.

Coin batteries last forever and are super cheap from Amazon, and last years.

I have never seen one leak in 25 years of electronics and computer repair.

Though I guess anything is possible.

That said, NVRAM will truly last forever and you will NEVER think about batteries again.

Coin batteries will leak. I’ve seen it mostly in laptops. With any type of batteries, there are LOTS of counterfeits now, especially on Amazon. These are really risky. I just buy the lithiums from Home Depot and put them in a remote battery holder. Think I learned this from Pin_Guy

NVRAM is great too if you can install it. I’ve never bothered, no particular reason.

My non Bally / Williams pins are on NVRAMs and my Bally / Williams pins are on Frank's Battery Boards. Attached is a link to Frank's Battery Boards: https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

With all the talk of lighting here's my effort. As I said before, I love incandescent bulbs in certain games and Addams is one of them. Used these in the GI and inserts. Added 6 lit star posts. Also added Lee's bookcase light, swamp light and lit scoops. I'm very happy with how it turned out.

Everything was stripped off the playfield and cleaned which has really helped.

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Another photo showing just the GI, star posts, bookcase and swamp mods.

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Would you please post a photo of where you positioned and aimed them?
lhammer610
Here are where I placed mine. I didn't like the brightness of the spots shining off the DMD and THING area, so I gave them little "hoods" of black electrical tape. Another pinsider recommended it to me and works great! I have also reduced the amount of blue LEDs in the strip along the back, but the pic still oversaturates it and makes it look like there is so much blue. lol It's really not like that in real life.
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Howdy Folks. I've been told it's OK to double post in two threads, so here we go .

I'm assembling my first EVER pinball machine, and it's my favorite, Addams family. i'm probably about 75% done.. with a completed and working cabinet. it's the playfield that's slowing things down.

Right now, I'm trying to focus on getting the remaining switches installed..but first the have to be assembled, and with never having seen them completed, it's a tough job figuring out if they are right or not.

The one on now, is the ball gate. I'm assuming this one goes on the ramp by the bear kick. only have a few more after this, and then it's on to the knocker and other equipment for under the playfield...so any help with assembled pictures will speed things along

thanks!

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I hope these help.

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I hope you bend the front switch lug with white wire and black end of diode forward. Balls have hit it back into the center lug with the green wire.

LTG : )

Jeeze, I just post a couple pics and Lloyd tells me to get bent.

Nice catch Lloyd, good eye, thanks. I've bent it back now.

that it does! thank you. all except the clip piece. can't tell where it goes, except obviously by the screws.
.

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In other machines that clip is used for holding a rubber cover that goes over the switch. See the TZ mini playfield switches for example. It is attached using the switch mounting screws with the mouth of the clip pointing up.

I don't believe it came stock on any TAFs but some people have added it.

Ahh, THAT is why others have said the cap was missing, but I don' t recall EVER having seen one on the machines in the field. so I was confused by that.
OK, the next step is the Bally Kicker. That's it for switches for now. But focusing on the switches and the remaining 24 or so lower playfield items I'm missing.

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The grey rubber cap is added to protect the diode (as Lloyd suggesred), the black clip secures the cap to keep it from falling off.
You see it on Doctor Who, TZ, Funhouse and several other games.

It also gives it a more finished look.

You don't have to install it if you dont want too.
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The switch actuating lever looks way too long, it will have to trimmed back.

It should end up just before the mounting screw head so that you can install the mounting screws.

See the picture from Evan.
gate switch (resized).jpg

@lhammer610, don't know why the pics didn't load in the last post.

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Hmm, I wasn't sure if I should cut it or not, since it would seem they sent it longer for a reason, but I'll trim it down a bit.
This is how I think the Kicker should go. But not sure and not sure where the rubber goes.

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Lol. No, the long arm is incorrect.
Marco often sends parts that will work but need tweaking.

Your knocker is assembled wrong.

Heres a pic of one on my bench.

Its from a different game, but they are all similar:
20220111_101510 (resized).jpg
The coil itself is backwards.

The sleeve goes thru the bracket and centers the spring, which goes on the other side of it. It touches the big end of the plunger.

The rubber goes on the mounting bracket as a silencer for the big end of the plunger.

Take a look in the manual. See if there's a good picture.

Someone here will post one.

This picture may help. Even though it's an auto launch assembly.

Straight wire switch arms and flat blade switch arms come longer for many applications. Trim as needed so the end doesn't hook on anything.

LTG : )

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that it does. except for the one plunger part on one, and the rubber part on both. still can't quite clearly see where that goes. but it does help
two more almost done!

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Coil sleeve is missing on the one on the left.

Coil sleeve is incorrectly installed on the one on the right. It must go inside the metal bracket to keep it from falling out.

The grommet goes into the hole in the mounting bracket under the big end of the knocker plunger as well as the one on the left.

20220111_115253 (resized).jpg

The rubber piece goes in the hole on the bracket so the plunger hits it instead of the metal.

Screenshot_74.png

Also be mindful of the orientation of the coil. Rotate the coil with your hand, if the lugs can touch the metal bracket, you probably want to change that. I think you want the lugs facing up here in your picture, unless the coil is backwards (I think it is?).

Screenshot_75.png

Shredder565

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A-14107
a-14107.jpg

It looks like you have the wrong coil sleeve in the knocker assembly.

The plastic of the sleeve should stick out from both sides. The metal bracket holds it together.

The short side goes to the spring side.

In the picture here the coil sleeve is black.
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Nice job! Good pic!

Reading the manual is important.

OK, that was where I THOUGHT it should go, but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get it in that s mall hole. I finally found you could squeeze it through without damaging it, so that's what I did.

And I placed them sideways because that's how it sort of looked in the picture on the bag. guess was wrong on that one.

So, apart from that extra tubing, assuming I understood everything properly, does this look correct? I feel like i might still be mis understanding something.
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Those look correct!

You often get extra stuff for different applications from Marco.

Like too long of a switch actuator, etc.

The manual will have the correct orientation.

Yep, and coil should be sandwiched tight against the adjustable plate in the middle so it doesn’t wiggle. This prevents it from rattling around, stops the plunger scraping the sleeve, stops vibration that breaks solder joints, etc.

Those assy are so clean and shiny. I think this counts as pinball pr0n.

If you think that's something, my entire machine is 100% new. no used parts yet .
started two years ago with an office bonus check and a new cabinet buy, and finally getting close to done.

I’m thinking of trying this with whitewater since I already have a playfield and some boards.

the only other machine i'd even come close to consider doing this with is ST:TNG since, like TAF, this was my summer child hood down the jersey shore at barnacle bills every year. but, I neither have the funds, nor the space to do it. probably ever heh. so, this will be my one and done.

THe final set of parts for this round of installing

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how d oes this look? something is undoubtedly wrong

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I would install it. I work on arcade monitors all of the time. I am a competent repair guy.

though after reading the responses, I'll just tell the guy what I told him a couple of weeks ago. Install new batteries during the first week of every year.

The manual specifies A-30-2000 as the coil for both A-15367 and A-15368 (if it is correct).

On A-15367, flip the coil around (so the lugs are in the center). Then turn it so the lugs are facing the side opposite of the bracket with the screw holes. I think this is for the swamp, right?

What is that other assembly for (the top one)?

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