Thanks all, coil looks right so I will try the sleeve.
Quoted from TronGuy:Forgive a rookie question
What is the difference between TAF, and TAF GOLD? And, how do you tell the difference?
Gold has some art differences, more gold and less blue in the cab art, gold legs, lockdown bar and side rails. Inside are gold pop bumper caps, thing box and bookcase plastics. Game-wise there was also an extra ball button under the shooter rod, and in the bottom right of the front was a plaque. Only 1k we’re made I believe.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Gold has some art differences, more gold and less blue in the cab art, gold legs, lockdown bar and side rails. Inside are gold pop bumper caps, thing box and bookcase plastics. Game-wise there was also an extra ball button under the shooter rod, and in the bottom right of the front was a plaque. Only 1k we’re made I believe.
With the Gold version, there are a couple additional random awards (Cousin It's hideout) and I believe the metal habitrail ramp was gold plated as well. The gold version was done to commemorate the pin being the best selling pin of all time.
IMG_4012 (resized).jpgIMG_4013 (resized).jpgI think I saw the software revision indicate GOLD edition. It's a re-import of some type.
I didn't think it had any of the stuff mentioned above.
Quoted from TronGuy:I think I saw the software revision indicate GOLD edition. It's a re-import of some type.
I didn't think it had any of the stuff mentioned above.
You can put the gold ROMs into the standard Addams Family, just a swap of the chips.
Quoted from thewool:Hi all. I would like to gauge opinion on how strong your chair kick out is?
Mine is about 2/5 strength. The ball rolls quite calmly towards the left flipper, normally with enough bounce to jump over to the right flipper.
In my head it feels like it should be stronger, so just wondering what factory strength is supposed to be like? Cheers.
Check the scoop itself. It may have cracks or broken welds that run down either side of the backside.
Quoted from golfingdad1:Check the scoop itself. It may have cracks or broken welds that run down either side of the backside.
Good shout there. Is it easier to epoxy repair welds or get them welded properly?
20211227_093307 (resized).jpgi would weld, but you cant just let some guy weld it. ITs very thin and to much heat will melt that thin metal away causing more damage than before....maybe just get brand new as suggested.
Hey thanks for that link! Never heard of his stuff before...
From your experience is if worth replacing any of the other metal housings or do the orders tend to last a bit longer.
Quoted from thewool:Hey thanks for that link! Never heard of his stuff before...
From your experience is if worth replacing any of the other metal housings or do the orders tend to last a bit longer.
Mantis parts are 2 or 3 times stronger than factory OEM.
I tend to just buy all tgat i need.
Quoted from EvanDickson:I have a question for anyone who's done a pf swap. Under the ramps I've found some padding. I think it's two sided tape. Is this spec, or is this someone doing a hack, like maybe the ramps were misshapen or something?[quoted image]
It came so from the factory-no hack
Quoted from EvanDickson:I have a question for anyone who's done a pf swap. Under the ramps I've found some padding. I think it's two sided tape. Is this spec, or is this someone doing a hack, like maybe the ramps were misshapen or something?[quoted image]
Amd doing same as you and yes it's on my game too.
Ok thanks all! I'll transfer these, or replace if they get destroyed during removal.
New question:
There's a post to the left of the two bottom pops. Spec days I should use the yellow tapered rubber with a nylon spacer. My Addams had just a black sleeve, and honestly the tapered yellow would get squished and deformed if I installed it. Does anyone know if there's a specific reason the tapered is called for? Sleeve looks to make more sense.
IMG_20211229_203514886~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from EvanDickson:Ok thanks all! I'll transfer these, or replace if they get destroyed during removal.
New question:
There's a post to the left of the two bottom pops. Spec days I should use the yellow tapered rubber with a nylon spacer. My Addams had just a black sleeve, and honestly the tapered yellow would get squished and deformed if I installed it. Does anyone know if there's a specific reason the tapered is called for? Sleeve looks to make more sense.[quoted image]
Thats the right place for it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:thats a location for a black sleeve
The tapered yellow goes under the ramp:
[quoted image]
I couldn't find a similar pic anywhere, that one is perfect, thank you!
Here is mine.
Quoted from TronGuy:Forgive a rookie question
What is the difference between TAF, and TAF GOLD? And, how do you tell the difference?
Joined the club today! Bought from a friend who had owned it for almost 20 years...he started to consider what might happen to it later in his life...then some months later he finally offered to sell it to me. It hadn't seen much play in the past few years, but also needs some love as it is fairly dirty, needs flipper rebuilds, board maintenance, etc. It's got a DP playfield, but I'm not sure if they all were by that time.
Happy to be part of the club!
20211229_175008 (resized).jpg20211229_194406 (resized).jpg20211229_194417 (resized).jpg20211229_194436 (resized).jpgQuoted from DuffysArcade:Joined the club today! Bought from a friend who had owned it for almost 20 years...he started to consider what might happen to it later in his life...then some months later he finally offered to sell it to me. It hadn't seen much play in the past few years, but also needs some love as it is fairly dirty, needs flipper rebuilds, board maintenance, etc. It's got a DP playfield, but I'm not sure if they all were by that time.
Happy to be part of the club!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Welcome to the club! Enjoy as this title is one of the best.
Really love your shirt! Had to show my wife and told her she should buy one for me as that statement is true to fact for me. Come on sweetheart this will be the last one....he he he.
Quoted from DuffysArcade:Joined the club today!
Happy to be part of the club!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Welcome to the Club.
TAF is my alltime favorite Pin forever.
Greetings from Köln to Gangelt
Thomas
Quoted from DuffysArcade:Joined the club today! Bought from a friend who had owned it for almost 20 years...he started to consider what might happen to it later in his life...then some months later he finally offered to sell it to me. It hadn't seen much play in the past few years, but also needs some love as it is fairly dirty, needs flipper rebuilds, board maintenance, etc. It's got a DP playfield, but I'm not sure if they all were by that time.
Happy to be part of the club!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
My fiance has a video of me saying exactly what your shirt says...she pulls it out every now and then for a laugh...I cringe when I watch it...what was I thinking....
Quoted from Concretehardt:Anybody put a mirrored backglass in their game, if so was it worth the $$$?
100% totally worth it. All six of my Bally/Williams pins have mirrored backglasses however TAF is my favorite.
The detail of the lightning bolt mirrored is everything.
I'm sure you will love it.
IMG_5136 (resized).jpgQuoted from thewool:Good shout there. Is it easier to epoxy repair welds or get them welded properly?
Quoted from dmacy:I would get them welded properly or a better alternative is getting the ones from Kerry.
Quoted from golfingdad1:i would weld, but you cant just let some guy weld it. ITs very thin and to much heat will melt that thin metal away causing more damage than before....maybe just get brand new as suggested.
I had to fix my scoops on my TZ so I took them to an exhaust shop. A lot of those guys do custom exhaust systems that can typically have stainless pipes after the headers, which means TIG welding. TIG welders can handle stuff that thin no problem. I just called and asked a couple shops if they could TIG stainless and found a shop that was close by and had the time that afternoon. I took the pieces out and showed him the broken welds and he had them done in about 10 minutes and for $20. All I had to do was make them pretty again with a little cleaning, sanding, and re-graining and they were good to go. They've lasted about 6 years, five pinball shows, and about 4000 plays so far. I think they'll be fine for a while longer...
Quoted from Miguel351:I had to fix my scoops on my TZ so I took them to an exhaust shop. A lot of those guys do custom exhaust systems that can typically have stainless pipes after the headers, which means TIG welding. TIG welders can handle stuff that thin no problem. I just called and asked a couple shops if they could TIG stainless and found a shop that was close by and had the time that afternoon. I took the pieces out and showed him the broken welds and he had them done in about 10 minutes and for $20. All I had to do was make them pretty again with a little cleaning, sanding, and re-graining and they were good to go. They've lasted about 6 years, five pinball shows, and about 4000 plays so far. I think they'll be fine for a while longer...
That is awesome! With that said, Kerry’s new ones are better in every way.
Quoted from Concretehardt:Anybody put a mirrored backglass in their game, if so was it worth the $$$?
110%.
2736AAAB-734D-4379-BEE2-1B4F55348AC5 (resized).jpegQuoted from SuperMica:100% totally worth it. All six of my Bally/Williams pins have mirrored backglasses however TAF is my favorite.
The detail of the lightning bolt mirrored is everything.
I'm sure you will love it.
[quoted image]
Quoted from dmacy:110%.
[quoted image]
Thanks guys order placed!
FYI Sale ends Monday if anyone is thinking of upgrading.
Is special trim needed to install these CPR backglasses or does the existing trim on the original glass/translite fit/transfer to the backglass?
Quoted from gac:Is special trim needed to install these CPR backglasses or does the existing trim on the original glass/translite fit/transfer to the backglass?
The original translite trim doesnt work very well.
Use williams system 11 trim.
I did a fairly comprehensive write up on this issue, see post #21:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim
Trim:
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=System%2011%20trim
Tape:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-900-0006-00
Quoted from pinballinreno:The original translite trim doesnt work very well.
Use williams system 11 trim.
I did a fairly comprehensive write up on this issue, see post #21:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim
Trim:
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=System%2011%20trim
Tape:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-900-0006-00
Great information. Thanks for posting this.
Are these the correct replacement LED bulbs for behind the backglass? I wasn’t sure if the IJ & TAF took the same bulbs in the back box And I don’t have my TAF yet? Also any recommendations for color to go behind the mirror back glass.. Cool white or warm white?
04A25267-FED0-430A-83BB-D036014A98EB (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Concretehardt:Are these the correct replacement LED bulbs for behind the backglass? I wasn’t sure if the IJ & TAF took the same bulbs in the back box And I don’t have my TAF yet? Also any recommendations for color to go behind the mirror back glass.. Cool white or warm white?
[quoted image]
I used comet 1 or 2 smd sunlight frosted
Quoted from Concretehardt:Are these the correct replacement LED bulbs for behind the backglass? I wasn’t sure if the IJ & TAF took the same bulbs in the back box And I don’t have my TAF yet? Also any recommendations for color to go behind the mirror back glass.. Cool white or warm white?
[quoted image]
I would also go with leds from comet pinball. Also, Addams family uses 555 style bulbs behind the backglass, not the bayonet style you posted.
I'm restoring my Addams, and have progressed to the last few bits topside, including the thing box. I'm restoring all parts from gold to standard, and noticed with the wear at the joints that the gold is just the red with gold spray. For some reason it entertains me that they put gold paint on the red, and now I'm going to put red paint back over the gold. "Not so fast buster" spritz spritz.
IMG_20220101_195637438~2 (resized).jpgWhile I have this bit wide open, here's another pic. Anyone who has Addams, and has an issue with the ball sometimes getting stuck in the swamp, and also has a 3d printer (or a friend with one) needs to print this mod. It can be found on thingiverse, and it's really handy. Hats off to whoever modeled it.
IMG_20220101_200953384~2 (resized).jpgI am sure this is answered elsewhere (I did several searches), but here I go:
I am doing a playfield transfer for TAF. I find the playfield to be dark when playing and I want to brighten it up. I do not want to do the side lighting (PinStadium). I am planning on doing a a LED strip above the playfield in the back of the cabinet.
What are the best ways to brighten it up, tastefully? I don't want a modern Stern look.
I was thinking of wiring in additional flood lamps to the GI and mounting them above the playfield. I only need a post with a screw, plus access to the GI to add those.
As to the GI lights under the playfield at the scoop and the swamp, I have seen many photos above the playfield and they look good. Any particular location to install them?
Quoted from lhammer610:I am sure this is answered elsewhere (I did several searches), but here I go:
I am doing a playfield transfer for TAF. I find the playfield to be dark when playing and I want to brighten it up. I do not want to do the side lighting (PinStadium). I am planning on doing a a LED strip above the playfield in the back of the cabinet.
What are the best ways to brighten it up, tastefully? I don't want a modern Stern look.
I was thinking of wiring in additional flood lamps to the GI and mounting them above the playfield. I only need a post with a screw, plus access to the GI to add those.
As to the GI lights under the playfield at the scoop and the swamp, I have seen many photos above the playfield and they look good. Any particular location to install them?
Add 4 spotlights.
Use purple LEDs. Its really nice.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Add 4 spotlights.
Use purple LEDs. Its really nice.
How do these work? Are they just added inline with existing gi? And where do you place them?
Anyone got a pic of spotlights in their TAF?
Quoted from EvanDickson:How do these work? Are they just added inline with existing gi? And where do you place them?
Anyone got a pic of spotlights in their TAF?
They go on the slings and anwhere you want them.
You need the spotlights and some hex spacers.
Quoted from pinballinreno:They go on the slings and anwhere you want them.
You need the spotlights and some hex spacers.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/spotlight-kit
You can make your own cheaper.
Quoted from EvanDickson:How do these work? Are they just added inline with existing gi? And where do you place them?
Anyone got a pic of spotlights in their TAF?
If mine weren’t buried due to a basement improvement project I would take one, but I have spotlights in a number of spots. Have them on the right and left slings with the spotlight kits. Then I put one up above the swamp by the upper flipper and another over on the left ramp to light the upper playfield. There’s a lot in the middle of the playfield that blocks the spotlights from the slings, so that’s why I did it.
Spotlight kit or source the parts for the spotlight kit with matrix bulbs to hook into the GI.
Quoted from lhammer610:I am sure this is answered elsewhere (I did several searches), but here I go:
I am doing a playfield transfer for TAF. I find the playfield to be dark when playing and I want to brighten it up. I do not want to do the side lighting (PinStadium). I am planning on doing a a LED strip above the playfield in the back of the cabinet.
What are the best ways to brighten it up, tastefully? I don't want a modern Stern look.
I was thinking of wiring in additional flood lamps to the GI and mounting them above the playfield. I only need a post with a screw, plus access to the GI to add those.
As to the GI lights under the playfield at the scoop and the swamp, I have seen many photos above the playfield and they look good. Any particular location to install them?
I've added these spotlights that comet sells (separate reflector)and while they did lighten up the playfield, I found that in short time air balls destroyed them often knocking out the bulbs as well... I had purchased this from marco, but never got around to replacing it.. Them come in black and silver(chrome) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-10094 it has a one piece reflector built into the socket.
I'm a fan of darker playfields but Addams is very dark especially on the right side. Currently adding some LED star posts to help a bit, will report back on how it goes.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:If mine weren’t buried due to a basement improvement project i would take one, but I have spotlights in a number of spots. Have them on the right and left slings with the spotlight kits. Then I put one up above the swamp by the upper flipper and another over on the left ramp to light the upper playfield. There’s a lot in the middle of the playfield that blocks the spotlights from the slings, so that’s why I did it.
Spotlight kit or source the parts for the spotlight kit with matrix bulbs to hook into the GI.
Quoted from thewool:I'm a fan of darker playfields but Addams is very dark especially on the right side. Currently adding some LED star posts to help a bit, will report back on how it goes.
Yup, I also put 3 of these lit star posts in. One on each sling closest to the flipper, and one on the right side by the scoop.
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