blown motor/gearbox

Thank you for the walk thru. Your Pics were great. Your game looks GREAT!
What material did you us for the flaps, and what did you cut with?

Spring steel rolls from pinrestore. .007" thick. Just google spring steel and find if from other vendors as well. Get more than you need as the first few attempts may not be perfect as you improve your technique.

http://www.pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

Cut with tin snips of many types available at home depot or harbor freight. I usually leave corners more square when I first cut them out then keep going back rounding off pieces to get the desired shape.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wiss-9-3-4-in-Compound-Action-Straight-Cut-Aviation-Snips-M3RS/100060795?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D29A-G-D29A-Multi-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA_LIA-2153902-WF-MinorAppl_Minor_Appliances_Special_Buys&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D29A-G-D29A-Multi-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA_LIA-2153902-WF-MinorAppl_Minor_Appliances_Special_Buys-71700000042813121-58700004539894749-92700067474701002&gclid=CjwKCAiAv_KMBhAzEiwAs-rX1LjXBJgs5sSroYb-OUZfGrdeeOFNR0b5Oc1WIbk8tiDoQ-gRKLUa2hoC0OoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks for all The INFO

I'm in the process of either trading or selling my TAF that I restored and I am interested in some opinions. I am not certain what I should value my game at. I know what I have in it and I see the asking prices of these games on Pinside but not sure what is a fair valuation. To summarize what I believe are the key new parts, it has a new plywood cabinet, CPR Gold playfield clear coated by HEP, an LEDOCD and GI OCD plus a ColorDMD. Every microswitch was replaced with a new Cherry switch. The boardset is matching if that means anything still .

Here is a gallery:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMgmibmijVaZ2MrgQ8ff-LEvHMCwF8g_z6YFEL4VkI9Ozp2EfeZ1c5TxGk4O4q6oQ?key=QUFjOGI3YTU0anRfNDRBZU9RbFdTYm0wb1k5U1RR

The new parts I installed are during the course of the restore were:

1 1-1/16" Pinball (Standard Size)
2 14 Pin 32" Ribbon Cable with Ferrite Core
3 26 Pin 16" Ribbon Cable
4 34 Pin 26" Ribbon Cable
5 34 Pin 3.75" Ribbon Cable
6 AC Line cord cover
7 ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bookcase Blue set
8 ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Bracket chair
9 ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) diverter bracket
10 ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Motor bookcase
11 ADDAMS FAMILY (Bally) Motor Thing
12 Addams Family Apron Decal Set
13 Addams Family Coil wrapper kit 21 Piece Kit - Adhesive backed colored masking tape 
14 CPR Mirrored Backglass
15 Backglass Lift Channel for Williams/Bally Circa 1991-1995
16 Backglass Trim - Side for WMS/BLY
17 Backglass Trim - Top for WMS/BLY
18 Ball guide - long runway
19 Ball Shooter (Plunger) Barrel Spring - 0.75" Long
20 Ball Shooter (Plunger) Housing Mounting Plate
21 Ball Shooter (Plunger) Rod - Clear Translucent Knob
22 Ball Shooter (Plunger) Rod - Clear
23 Bookcase Lens - The Addams Family 03-8624 
24 Bracket - Coil Retainer
25 Plywood Cabinet by VirtuaPin
26 Cabinet Flipper Button (Transparent) - 1-1/8" Shaft - WITH SPRING
27 Chromed Wireforms plus apron chrome ball guard
28 Chute Ramp Assembly A-15070 (Repro) Addams Family 
29 Coil sleeves
30 Color DMD Sigma LED Display
31 Comet LEDs
32 CORRECT Small Yellow Flipper Bat 20-9264-6 (RS, SC, TAF, TZ) with shaft
33 CPR Gold Playfield
34 Custom Oak Backboard
35 Diverter plunger assembly 2-1/16" long
36 DMD Glare Guard
37 "Full Flipper Assembly For Williams/Bally Machines From 02/1992 To 10/1998
38 "Full Flipper Assembly For Williams/Bally Machines From 02/1992 To 10/1998
39 "Full Flipper Assembly For Williams/Bally Machines From 02/1992 To 10/1998
40 "Full Flipper Assembly For Williams/Bally Machines From 02/1992 To 10/1998
41 GI OCD - Williams WPC89/WPC-S (GIOCDWPC89)
42 Glass
43 HEP CC for PF
44 Kicker 43DSC504 D-Series 5.25" 200W 2-Way 4-Ohm Speakers
45 Kicker Subwoofer CWCS84
46 Lamp Sockets
47 LED OCD - Williams WPC (LEDOCDWPC)
48 Leg Bolts Extended
49 Leg Protector Hidden
50 Light Lamp Panel
51 Magnet Control PCB
52 Magnets
53 Metal Hex Spacer Mounting Bracket
54 Microswitches
55 Misc. Wires
56 Mylar Flipper Button Protectors
57 NEW ITEM!! Addams Family Clear Backbox Cloud Topper Dome with NOS Decals
58 Nyliner® 1/4 inch bearing
59 Oak playfield wood rails (Reese Rails)
60 Outhole runway ball guide with baffle
61 Plastic set
62 Plastic Translucent Double Star Posts 1-1/16" Tall
63 Plastic Translucent Star Posts 1-1/16" Tall
64 Playfield Glass Rear Plastic Channel
65 Playfield Glass Side Rail Plastic Channel
66 Playfield Hanger Short
67 Plunger assembly 3.375 inches no hole
68 Pop Bumper Body Color: Blue
69 Pop Bumper Body Color: Frosted - Clear
70 Pop Bumper Body Color: Orange
71 Pop Bumper Body Color: Red
72 Pop Bumper Body Color: Yellow
73 Pop Bumper Bracket & Leaf Switch Assembly B-12030-2
74 Pop bumper cap clear cut off ADDAMS FAMILY
75 Pop Bumper Caps - Not including Clear cutoff cap
76 Pop Bumper Lamp Socket - Flat Wire Leads
77 Pop Bumper Skirt - Yellow, Black, Blue, Orange, Purple, Teal (Black
78 Power Box for WPC-89
79 Power cord receptacle
80 Receiver with Spring
81 Refurb parts for PCBs
82 Pop Bumper Ring And Rod Assemblies
83 Shim - bookcase
84 Stainless Side Rails
85 Phoenix Arcade Screened TAF decals
86 The Addams Family – Chair Hole Protector
87 The Addams Family – Chair Scoop
88 The Addams Family – Knocker
89 The Addams Family – Swamp Bracket
90 The Addams Family – Swamp Scoop
91 The Addams Family – Thing Hand Scoop
92 Williams/Bally 10-Foot Power Cord Replacement
93 Williams/Bally AE-23-800 Coil
94 Williams/Bally AE-26-1200 Coil
95 Williams/Bally AE-26-1500 Coil
96 Williams/Bally AE-27-1200 Coil
97 Williams/Bally AE-30-2000 Coil
98 Williams/Bally Backbox Lock, Keys, & Lock Plate Assembly
99 Williams/Bally Backbox Toggle Latch Bracket
100 Williams/Bally Backbox Toggle Latch Bracket
101 Williams/Bally Ball Shooter Housing
102 Williams/Bally Nylon Flipper Bushing
103 Williams/Bally Pop Bumper Bracket
104 Williams/Bally Ribbed Chrome Legs - Set of 4
105 Williams/Bally Standard Size Stainless Steel Lockdown Bar With Epoxied Under-Carriage - Circa 1990-1998
106 Williams/Bally Start Button 20-9663-1
107 Williams/Bally WPC-Era 25-Cent Chute
108 Williams/Bally WPC-Era Coin Reject Button
109 Williams/Bally/Stern/Gottlieb Pop Bumper Base
110 Reinforced Leg Plates
111 Misc. Screws
112 Yellow Williams Flipper Bats

Spectacular TAF. Whatever yours sells for, it’s the high-end of the market for TAF, whatever that is. I have a super nice one for sale with clear-coated playfield and many new and extra parts, but this one is a critter of another category! Best of luck. Message me to discuss my recent market experience if it’s helpful.

Please help with a Thing Hand issue. The motor works fine. Here’s what happens:

1) After a few games, the Thing Hand starts to respond slower than normal. Example - the ball goes into the Thing hole and the hand comes out like 5 seconds later.
2) After a while, the Thing Hand will not come out when the ball goes in the Thing hole. However, when the machine looks for the missing ball, the Thing Hand does come out.

At this point, I run the Thing Hand test, no movement.

The only thing that seems to fix is to disconnect/reconnect the two pin connector leading to the Thing motor. The fix lasts for 5-10 games.

Weird…. I think I have reseated all of the appropriate connectors. Any ideas?

Check for cracked solder joints on the pins or loose wires on the motor board connector..

Its possible that the gearbox needs to be reconditioned (cleaned and greased) or replaced, as well as the motor.

Is there anyone that can give me a picture of the wiring on the three targets at the swamp. Wanting to make sure my wiring is correct. Picture of the targets I need a wiring picture of. Thanks

16384894885306297395281854211544 (resized).jpg

Trying to locate licensed apron decals for Addams

Thanks

Let me know if these work. Tight area to get good pics

IMG_5510 (resized).jpg

IMG_5512 (resized).JPG

IMG_5515 (resized).jpg

https://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/addams-family/addams-family.htm

Thank you

Appreciate the link

Thank you!

I have decided at this point to keep my game - it would be silly to sell it.

I love mine. Nostalgia.

Not a bad idea at all. You put a lot of work into yours and it shows. I’ve enjoyed adding things to mine and I might keep it and hopefully tour the mansion someday. TAF is surprisingly challenging to finish. Makes me keep hitting start!

Definitely a tough game. But lots of shots and it always keeps you coming back. I have one I recently picked up and will starting a full restore but cannot get myself to start it knowing it will be down for a couple months.

What's the deal with the little bugs plastics? In my case, they're all on the pops, but I've looked at a lot of addams's online dang they seem to always be in different places. Is there a "correct" placement? Or is the idea to just stick them wherever?

IMG_20211203_213302899~2 (resized).jpg

Some are to correct ball hangs, others you can put anywhere you like.

There is some randomness to them.

The time has come

“Click Click”

CPR Gold

BA06AB75-6A57-44AC-AA79-D204E4CD5A3E (resized).jpeg

Looks great, I usually have to reclear the CPR playfields.

If the inserts edges arent shrunken in you should be good to go.

Yea this was in a collectors hands for over a year

Feels very smooth

30A069EF-B399-44D5-8993-7BEB8E0B87E3 (resized).jpeg

32AD6DC4-5F42-4970-84AB-2531286D9F02 (resized).jpeg

41A96F7B-74EA-48D1-90A3-307F6B2EFD63 (resized).jpeg

8F2BF4D4-109F-497C-85AD-1B40880AA879 (resized).jpeg

DA95F585-7EC1-43A8-A13A-8772B8675BC2 (resized).jpeg

Shine a light from underneath to check the keylines. Its easy to touch them up if needed, if you are going to re-clear it.

CPR playfields arent known for their mirror finishes as evident in the pics.

Looks like it could use a couple coats of clear and then a sand/buff it down, paying attention to the insert edges.
The extra clear would also fill in the grain showing.

You can either leave it alone, or fix it before you start the swap.

Its a nice playfield either way.

Just depends on the level of restoration.

Just a very nice looking machine

Definitely will not be a HEP etc

Giving her a new lease on life

Current Field

232D6AA7-3658-417A-A7D6-CE1E1CB4ED18 (resized).jpeg

I have a CPR Silver ready for a PF swap. However I will need to do a little touchup on it before the swap. And definitely will need to be cleared again. Not super smooth and clear has been a little absorbed.

In a pinch the sprayMax 2k is excellent for a quick 2 or 3 coats after light touchups.

It works really good and yields a professional result.

I have used Spraymax in the past. Not for Pinball though. Painted a Jet Ski. I will most likely use Automotive Clearcoat. I used Automotive Clearcoat to paint my #HS cabinet.

I get the cracked solder joints or loose wires as an issue. The motor runs fine when it has a solid connection - why suggest the gearbox or motor?

Sweet tip, thanks!

Its because its 30 years old and depending on the use, could need maintenance.

Have you checked the switch where the ball comes to rest prior to it being picked up in switch test? Maybe its just not "seeing" the ball....

How high will it go ? ( not mine )

ebay.com link: itm

Whoa! A used TAF complete with credit dot and mysterious uncertain condition! $15k at least.

39 years after playing this game every lunchtime in the pub next to my college... I've joined the bloody club!!!

Game is in decent nick, needs a damn good clean. Playfield is probably the worst thing with some planking around the magnets and wear spots, but she will be a great player's machine and take me right back to the pub days

Do you have a timemachine-this game did not exist 39 years ago

Excitement got the better of me (and I feel old!)

29

I dont know but am watching. I am thinking of selling mine and this may be a good idea of asking price.

Difficult not to think about it when prices are what they are

Looking for advice on replacing my wpc89 power driver board in TAF. It’s had a rough life and needs repairs every year or two. Thinking of a new aftermarket board. Is rottendog pretty much the go to option or is there anything else to consider? I’ve always had original boards so this this new territory for me. Also which distributor is good to work with? I see it's available at Games We Play, Pinball Life, and The Pinball Wizard out of Utah. Thanks in advance for advice/opinions.

I would stick with the original and just send it out for repair and bullet proofing.

Chris Hibler is who I send my boards to.

PM him or email him.

http://chrishiblerpinball.com/

I appreciate the advice, can you elaborate on your rationale? Just curious. I've been doing that and about every 1-2 years need to send it for repairs, I've done than probably 6 times and it's getting tiresome. I'm thinking of a new board to have more reliability and I will repair and keep the original as a backup probably.

Have Chris "bullet proof" it. Tell him your concerns and he will do a stress test on it.

Hello Addams family owners. Unfortunately I am not one.

Anyway a friend of mine is an owner and doesn't work on machines at all.

I went over to check out a kickout problem earlier today. I think we actually fixed it by just leveling the machine, but.........there is at least 1 coil that could be replaced. (the one below the flippers)

He wants me to get some coils and have them on hand , he would like to have them in hand in 4 or 5 days. Where do you guys recommend me buying up a handful of coils that has a history of shipping quickly? (if anyone)

edit: I would appreciate any links or part numbers, that someone thinks is appropriate. I assume he will want at a minimum the coil that sits below the 2 flippers. And probably a couple of flipper coils to have as backups, and maybe the other coils.

thank you
tron guy

I would read the manual for part numbers. Having someone read them off a game can be a gamble, lol.

Get it here:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Manual.pdf

As far as shipping you can get overnight from marcospecialties.com or pinballlife.com, if you want to pay for it.

Thanks for the help.

Hi all. I would like to gauge opinion on how strong your chair kick out is?

Mine is about 2/5 strength. The ball rolls quite calmly towards the left flipper, normally with enough bounce to jump over to the right flipper.

In my head it feels like it should be stronger, so just wondering what factory strength is supposed to be like? Cheers.

Check to make sure you have the correct coil installed. It should be AE-26-1200. When I bought my TAF the Swamp kickout coil was the wrong one and you could barely catch the ball it came out SOOO FAST. I changed it to the correct coil and all is good.

If your coil is correct check for binding or alignment on the kickout mechanism.

Thanks mate will check those things tomorrow

If its the correct coil try putting in a new coil sleeve.