I also believe that to be normal. Mine and others I have played that way too.

Not to speak for him, but I’ve had good luck with the CPR TAF swaps I’ve done. Will be doing one soon from Mr. Kruzman.

Making some progress. Man, this thing was dark and drab!! Crappy colored concave LEDs in the GI that barely lit anything.

Here’s what it looked like:

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Comet cool white GI and inserts done, added trough light and serious PF cleaning. Much better now!!

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Shooter was sluggish, some shots barely made it up the ramp to the Thing kickout. Rebuilt that, and added a trans blue shooter rod in place of the black. Upgraded the cab speaker, made a keychain.

On to cleaning the dirty cab...

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Lighted flippers in!

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Those are pretty damn cool.

Anyone want to do me a really annoying favor and take some close ups of basically all the connectors in the back box?

This game was a parts machine when I got it and I’m nearing the end of my restoration and I have no idea where anything goes. Most are keyed uniquely but there’s several keyed alike and I have a couple connectors that a wire or two are pulled out.

I’ll PayPal you some beer money if you can help

My Power driver board is out getting refurbished at the moment otherwise I would be happy to help. I have a video I could email you that I took of all the connectors on the Power Driver board. Would just need you email address.

An alternative is to post some images of what you're having a problem with. Most of the wiring in the backbox is documented in the manual so it should be possible to work out. Doing it this way you have more eyes on your wiring that doing it the other way.

The swap went well. The most critical points were fairly spot-on, except for the the point for this wall I am having an issue with. Of course that just needs a simple tweak so no big deal there. The other not-so-critical holes were mostly good, but some were a bit off but again, no issue there either. As long as you have some experience and common sense, the CPR PF swaps in very nicely. The one thing I wish they would do is make the point "impressions" for the scews just a bit bigger so they are easier to see.

I think I did the total swap in 22 hours using two of my rotisseries.

Great. I have a few touchups to do on my CPR playfield. There are a couple missing lines that were not painted for some reason so I will need to do a little painting then re-clearcoat the PF.

#TAF has some critical alignments from what I have observed. Getting my ducks in a row prior to the teardown. Going to redo the cabinet as well.

The Addams Family Lit Kit flippers mod is now listed at http://www.ArcadeMade.com

Here also is a video of an installation running in the Showtime mode:

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I just did my flippers - went with Purple. Let me know what you think!

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Great color too!

Looks great!

I ran across an Addams Family machine the other day that has been on location for over fifteen years. It has the gold cabinet stickers on the lower cabinet, and standard blue on the top box. Further, the legs, rails, and lockdown bar are stainless.

I read somewhere that this might have been late in the production cycle, and not a true gold edition. Any thoughts or comments on what it might be?

Thanks!

I see. My issue was later down the line. Maybe have somebody 3D print and angle to diverter you can put in the corner.

It's a late model run and they used up the extra cabinets. Somebody here posted all the information a few months back. Mine is the exact same way. Standard game with a gold cabinet.

Okay on a original 1992 TAF, are the flipper EOS switches normally open, or normally closed? I am so it being called both ways during when searching.

This.
Fliptronics games were all normally open EOS switches.

Probably has been discussed here before, somewhere, but how many TAF are out there, in private or public locations. 22,270 TAF were made, but how many went on the scrap heap after they had had made the $$$$

Would you say that 5000, 6000 have been destroyed? Or more..
Pinside shows 2084 pinsiders have TAF in their collections

More like 22000 made, I dont think that many were destroyed...its a very popular machine still till this day

Oops sorry, missed a 2 out of original post. Rectified now..

I would say there are most likely at least 16 or 17,000 left in the world that are either in private collections, on location, stored in a warehouse, playable or sitting in grandma’s basement in need of repair.

The game was extremely popular, so I’m sure some got trashed over time and were discarded, some parted out, some Frankensteined together to make one good machine, etc.

I have always heard that a game’s half life is every 10 years. But with this title I bet more of them survived than normal.

I would imagine since it is a desirable game that many collectors will scoop them up and keep good care of them rather than getting tossed in the trash. So Would be inclined to say most are still around.

Would be interesting to know the actual number that are still working.

In my context just to clarify, I meant how many probably went on location and were trashed by lack of maintenance or upkeep, or sustained physical damage, and eventually trashed or parted out.

Ironically, I always remember I was at a bar in downtown Philly when I was younger, and after a fight erupted, a poor TAF was smashed, PF glass shattered and a leg broken off the cab. I would imagine that game wasn't repaired, given how cheap they were back in the early 2000’s.

I didn’t get into pinball until years later, but in hindsight...I should’ve dragged it out to my car.

Oh, that is pretty funny. I am sure the owner would have been happy if you just hauled it away.

So one should trigger a bar fight to get an Addams family game

So my thing flips flipper sticks up every time you flip and is being held up. The coil you can hear is on and it holds it up with some strength. I noticed one of the diodes is gone on that coil, could that be the issue? I can't seem to find it in the bottom of the cab. Also my upper right flipper all of a sudden doesn't do any thing at all. Should I be looking at a driver transistor on the flipper control board?

You definitely need the diode on there. You should also check the corresponding transistor on the FCB, and check the solder joints / possible shorts or arcing on the circuit.

Sounds like your HOLD coil is stuck on. I would focus on that circuit.

Hey folks.
Which of the following fuse lists pertains to TAF

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Mine is a -4

I have a standard TAF

I am guessing the -7 might be for the GOLD Edition

Just an assumption. Maybe someone with a GOLD can chime in.

Crushed my high score tonight. Bil

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Hi Folks

I bought an Coin Taker LED flipper button kit

The directions show the coin door board for my power but my board doesn’t even have the connector pictured

Where else can I hook to 12vdc

Please see pics

Should be pin 1 and 4

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You can add the plug, or solder the wires directly to the pin pads there on the board where the connector should be.

Okay so even though the connectors not present this version Board should still produce the 12vdc

Thank you

I’ll
Test with a meter and give it a try

I honestly thought someone desoldered the connector and dip switches

Should be, yes! The coin interface board was modified (parts populated/depopulated) based on game's market. That specific connector was more used overseas for electronic coin-mechs and all.

Hello,

Appreciate any advice:

My lower flippers are not working. When I cycle flipper coils in test they work.
The flipper buttons work for upper flippers.
When I check switches the lower flipper switch on both sides does not register when pushing flipper buttons.

I cleaned the leaf switches and contacts look good. I can manually close the switch and nothing happens for either lower flipper but both upper flippers work if close those contacts. If push flipper buttons same thing- lower flippers don't fire and switch does not register closed but then upper flipper switch works.

On flipper test although both flippers fire with test with good strength the hold flipper does not work on test.

Any suggestions on troubleshooting? I checked all connections and can't find any poor wires or solder issues.

Thanks

This is normal - and not related to your other issue. Hold coils are sometimes not strong enough to lift the bat. You an test if they're working properly by holding the flipper bat mid-way, and feeling if it tries to move in your grasp when the Hold coil fires.

Thanks, appreciate it.
Any thoughts regarding why lower flippers/switch aren't firing? When the "outer" contact of leaf switch closes the upper flippers fire. But the "inner" contact on both left and right flipper leaf switches don't register. I've cleaned the contacts. Doesn't seem to be a coil issue as they fire on the tests.

Switch wiring, bad switch contacts, or bad Fliptronics board. Can rule all that out with the Flipper Test in the menu and a multimeter.

Let’s play a game

What’s wrong with this display

It’s an issue that developed a few months ago

Already done
- New Ribbon Cable
- Replaced the dmd driver board

The actual display looks great in my opinion

Now even with the replacement dmd driver still produces the issue

Do you think the dmd is ready to say good bye or is there something I’m over looking

Let me know your thoughts

Looks like it's already said goodbye, sadly. Looks outgassed.

It will go from looking perfect to that

After a few minutes

replace it with colorDMD.
get the LED version for the retro look.

What kind of serial number decal comes on the back of 92 TAF?
Gray or white one?
Thanks

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Pretty sure the grey one but the Gold likely got the white. At least my TAF is grey.

Gray on the back.

The white one goes inside on the right side above the power box or under the shooter rod

My Addams Family pinball is done.
All the mods i made are finally installed.

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