I don't have the list of rubbers but an advice: when I change rubbers on a machine I always order a few extra for most sizes. Rubbers doesn't cost that much and it's so annoying to realize you are missing just one or two. Also, if you order more rubbers later on you might get from another batch with a slightly different color.

Thanks, I'll do that, hate to be caught short.

Showtime: I just noticed that the left side slings and out lane lights stay lit and do not do the lightning effect like it is supposed to. The right side is fine. Any suggestions on where to start looking for the problem?

Run through the general illumination test manually. I recently got a Addams Family, and had issues with the right side. Someone had replaced the GI connector, and wired the right side to a unused GI circuit.
Good Luck

Thank you

That’s a good looking Addams. I think you added tasteful mods as well. I let my Addams go a couple years ago and hope to get a remake in the future. I know you guys don’t want to see that being owners but I hope it comes to fruition.

I've had a number of people tell me to download the gold code. Are the animations that different?

Nice. I was wondering what the pieces were then realized they're books. Duh.

You create the piece yourself or download from thingieverse or other site?

I didn’t make the models, just printing.

Sent a couple sets out today and have a couple sets left.

Okay folks

I bought a pin shakers (16 triggers)

Any preferences on the settings ?

Not sure how it really works as it’s just dip switches

Honestly thought it had multiple clips to attach your desired effect

Lmk

Cool

Thought that and for the knocker for Séance
Maybe bookcase

Is there a dip switch chart anyone has created that shows was that switch triggers ?

Joined the club today. Totally stoked to cross this one off the wishlist!!

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Definitely. This playfield is in great shape. I already reached out to a few people. Going to grab a few tasteful mods.

First order of business. I ordered a CPR backglass in December in anticipation, so just threw that on with a chrome lift channel from @gatecrasher.

Translite
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CPR mirrored BG with chrome lift channel installed. Much better!

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Congrats and Welcome. I just joined a few months ago as well. It is a very fun game. I have been ordering parts for a full rebuild and restore.

Thought I'd ask before I start tearing things apart.....

During Multi-ball if I hit 2 balls into the swamp VUK (through the scoop), it takes about 20 tries before the top ball gets kicked out. I'm thinking either alignment or weak coil, but wanted to check if it's common first.

Just made one of my customary bound manuals. It’s been a while since I was this excited about a game! This thing has some meat to it.

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That is a thick manual. Much thicker than mine. What is included in it?

Awesome pickup!! I’m surprised you didn’t have one sooner. Congrats!

TAF was one of those games I thought was WAY overrated for years. It wasn’t until I owned one and really got into the nuance of the game that I came to really appreciate its idiosyncrasies. It’s a masterclass in design.

I hoping for some help, apologies if I'm asking in the wrong thread, or if this question has been answered before. I'm a lurking Addams Family pinball owner from the UK, I've had the machine some 10 years, condition is ok, the playfield has seen better days, wear in all the usual places, and a particularly awful mansion that has seen better days. It was always my intention to have a full restore done at some point, however time and money usually get in the way.

Anyway to my question, the machine no longer holds any settings, if I switch the machine off and back on again i'm back to Factory Settings Restored, the machine used to hold the settings for at least a few weeks, now its hours if not minutes ..

Looking in the backboard components I assumed I'd find some very old AA batteries that would need replacing, except I have a large capacitor and no battery holder ?

Looking online I cant correlate this setup with anything I can find ? Is this something that would have been done at the factory and I just never noticed, the space for the battery holder is there, just looks like it was never fitted ?

Any advice on what I could do to rectify my issue ?

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Looks like a type of coin cell battery pack, not a capacitor. It has certainly saved your MPU board so buy it a beer.

You have a few options. Replace with NVRAM, replace with a remote AA battery holder and use lithium batteries, etc. I would just go with the latter.

Rule Set, Manual, Operator Handbook, IPDB printout, Parts Manual and Parts List, Schematics.

This is what I have replaced all my Bally/Williams machines with. ebay.com link: itm
Easy installation, remove old battery holder (in your case old battery and jumper wire) solder in new board, install battery, set new settings to what you want, done. Enjoy!

Thanks for the quick response, I'm after a simple idiot proof replacement, look to me like the battery is soldered in, I did wonder whether it was held in at both ends, but it doesn't move if I exert limited force, I was hoping for a simple swapout.

Next question if I may, if I buy a remote AA battery holder, it comes with 2 wires, black and red, I'm assuming I'd need to cut the existing 'green' battery out, remove the cable at the bottom (covered in an earth sheath) and then wire in the remote holder.

Would I be right in assuming that I can just connect the remote holder to the two connections that the green battery made ?

Also found the battery on aliexpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32786673103.html?dp=www.otmar.boutique&cv=duckduckgo.com&aff_fcid=d641b6f8f0ef47d3af063695689ece6d-1632840663136-00280-_pQrUVln&aff_fsk=_pQrUVln&aff_platform=api-new-link-generate&sk=_pQrUVln&aff_trace_key=d641b6f8f0ef47d3af063695689ece6d-1632840663136-00280-_pQrUVln&terminal_id=9b2ae0fb5c984935bf0057936b56eb57

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I really like the franks coin battety board. Its pretty slick and doesnt do any damage at all. But you have to open tbe backbox to change the battery every 3 years or so.

If you go with the remote battery setup, you can put longer wires and run it all the way up to the front of the game for easy access.

This is a really nice option to do. It also lasts years.

Don't remove the lower wire jumper its supposed to be there for this type of installation.

The black wire goes to the minus of where your battery is soldered.

The red wire goes to the plus side.

You can solder the wires after you remove the battery, or cut the old battery out but leave the tabs of the battery in place. Then alligator clip the new holder in or solder wires to the old tabs.

Personally for durability it should be soldered.

But it will work either way.

In all cases the old battery must be removed.

I am a fan of Franks coin battery board as well. I just installed one in my TAF. Clean installation and works great.

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If you can get the battery and just swap it, great. I thought it was soldered in by leads.

SOLD - I have a set of NOS plastics, complete with that funky NOS smell, if anyone is looking for some.

Thanks for the help with the battery, now up and running and saving High Scores ansd Settings, apologies if I appear to be turning this into a trouble shooting thread, if I should be asking elsewhere or starting a new thread please let me know ?

My next issue is that the game has been working fine and now all of a sudden I have Pinball Missing when I try to start a game, all three balls are in the machine, no less, no more.

Ive tried switching off and on again to no avail, looking under the playfield it looks like there are four micro switches, three for the balls and a forth for the outhole ?

Checking the switches which according to the matrix are 15, 16, 17 and 18 I get nothing when open or closed, as far as I can tell all other switches seem to be working, solenoid test shows all solenoids firing ..

I assume this means I have a cold joint or a loose connection somewhere in the chain ?

Solenoids on the outhole and ball release both work and 'sound' strong ..

I wonder if someone could point me in the right troubleshooting direction ?

One other piece of informaton, when I press the Start button, Pinball Missing pops up and then the machine looks for the balls by firing the solenoids, moving thing hand etc, at this point should I expect one of the balls to be ejected intothe shooter lane ? This doesn't happen ...

Check the trough switches.

Those are the switches that arent working labelled 15, 16 and 17, I cant see an obvious loose connection

Switch 15 - Left Trough
Switch 16 - Center Trough
Switch 17 - Right Trough
Switch 18 - Outhole

All not working

All those switches are on the same switch matrix column, along with Plumb bob tilt and start switch.

Since your start switch appears to be working the matrix transistor is fine.

Look under the playfield, find the Green/Brown wire (common to all 4 switches that are not working) and make sure that it is not disconnected somewhere. If you have a DMM check continuity on the Green/Brown wire as well.

Check your Plumb Bob Tilt #14 to make sure that is either working or not. I would imagine it is working since your start switch is working.

Ok so further intrigue, game came on this afternoon, all working, I played maybe 3 games and then suddenly in the middle of the final game the "pinball missing" message came up, so games works for a short period of time and then message displays, which almost suggests that once warmed up a loose connection appears ?

The Plumb Bob hasnt worked for a while (I assmed it was disconnected, turns out its there but there must have been a loose connection)

I looked through the manual and had found that the 4 trough switches, Start and Plumb Bob Tilt are on the same column they all have a common Green/Brown, so I had a look at the Coin Door Interface Board and looked at J6 Pin 8, Pin 7 and Pin 6, on loosening the connector all three cables came loose from the vampire teeth ... in fact they snapped off, suggesting that there has been an issue for a while.

I've tired reconnecting the wires by pushing them in Green/Brown to Pin 8 and Pin 7, Green/Red to Pin 6, I assume at least one connection is working as the Plumb Bob is now working (it wasnt before), the trough switches still aren't working, I haven't got the correct tool to push the cable in correctly, I need some version of the network Krone tool that I have.

It looks to me this may well be where my issue is, Start and Plumb Bob Tilt now work the other switches in the column dont ..

Further update, cabinet works on first power on, game started ok, I then immediately checked the switches and they all work ok, tilt included, so all switches on the column with Start, Tilit, Troughs etc work fine, I then wait less than 30 minutes and try to start a game and I get "pinball missing" ....

Getting a lot of ball hang ups between the thing box and the thing lockout to the swamp. What have others done to solve this?

Is it getting held up in the swamp area? If so, google "addams family swamp accelerator".

Just fyi, 3d print or make your own to save a few bucks.

Not the swamp. There is a big metal box for the thing hand, the ball drops in. It then rolls to another metal thing VUK up into the swamp.

It’s getting hung up between those two pieces.

I’m familiar with the swamp accelerator and it isn’t that issue.

Mine was stopping in the subway and it's because the lower piece with setting on top of the upper piece. Thus, creating a ledge. I just flipped them around and it's worked perfectly ever since.

Here’s a photo taken from the thing box down inside it. It’s like it’s getting hung up on a weld. Maybe a piece of Mylar would help but wanted to see if there was a better fix.

It looks like there is something behind the ball, but there isn’t that’s a weird shadow from the flash.

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Over time, where the ball drops in, it creates divots in the metal. Take off the box and gently hammer them back.

Need a huge favor from one of you TAF guys. I am having GI issues due to someone having done a crap-tastic hack on the J120 and J121 connectors, on the driver board. I am starting to think there are issues with the triacs.

Will some please, please, please send me nice pics of their J120, J121 wiring on those connectors.

A million thanks in advance.

Do these help at all?
Someone did a crappy job on mine as well. I’ll have to get on that.

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Mike,
Thank you very much. My wiring diagram info was incorrect. Imagine that.

One last request. The connector with two wires for the bulbs in the topper. Can I please get a shot of that connector and where it attaches to the board?

I have red/white going to J107-6 via a splice and a connector, and grey/black going to 125-3. I have no idea if these are factory correct or not, but I have full schematics around here somewhere.

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I have the same at 107 however I believe the topper Red/W wire goes to J106-5 (J125 is the same on my TAF)
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Awesome thanks! I guess whoever hacked mine couldn’t be bothered to put a new connector on J106 and just spliced into the existing connector below. One more fix on the list….

Wrapping up a playfield swap, and I am fine tuning things. Question about how the ball is plunged from the shooter lane , swings around the top and into the 5 bumper area. I think I know the answer but i want to double check.

Currently the ball is sailing through all 5 bumpers without touching a single one and down towarf the flippers. So in this case, the bumpers rarely get touched during play.

Is it safe it safe to assume the ball should be tagging that upper left bumper all the time and then bounced around in there after a hard plunge? Looks like i need to tune that outer metal wall just a bit.

Mine actually tags the top right pop and then bounces around a bit before trickling down. I’ve had a clean plunge all the way around the orbit, but it’s only happened once or twice.

My TAF also catches either the first top bumper or the others on the way down and does bounce around the graveyard 95% of the time. I am usually aiming for the skill shot however.

How did the playfield swap go otherwise? I have a CPR playfield ready to go, I just need to dive into it and get it done. want to first sand and re-clear the CPR playfield first.