looking to purchase a tAFG or a collectors quality tAF up in the Michigan area if anyone is trying to sell. thanks =)

I joined the club

I 'm having a Kooky problem with my TAF and am posting to see if any members have had a similar problem and were able to remedy it.
Upon start up the GI bulbs would flicker and dim, no message errors on the DMD, but the start button would not light to be able to start a game.
For about a month that game would work if I simply re-started it . I tried installing a daughter board designed to prevent possible resets due to drops in 5V, to see if that would fix the problem of it needing re-starts each time, and the green LED flashed indicating No Resets, and the problem disappeared completely for about a month of daily play before it returned. Re-starts no longer fix the problem and the game cannot be started. On a fluke it started once in the last week but the book case did not have enough power to finish its rotation and Thing just stopped mid operation. In Test Mode, the flashers and flippers seem to work fine, the solenoids will activate inconsistently but are weak, and neither the Book Case or Thing will activate. All red LEDS on the boards are on, with one flashing just like my other WPC-89 games and the voltage at the 6 TP's read correct except for #6 which reads 73v, again similar to my other games. I'm at a loss as to what to check or try next besides shipping the PDB off to be tested. Any ideas would be much welcomed, Thanks.

Congrats Pump House, hope you enjoy your TAF as much as I do. I play mine almost daily before I play my other games. I like the nostalgic simplicity, feel and game play in a 30 year old game. ENJOY!

Addams Family owners I have a question

Looking to get a new CPR for my Addams

Question

Between: Silver & Gold CPR playfields

Are there any color differences or they strictly differences in the screen process / blemishes

Anyone have side by side comparisons by chance

Thanks for your time

You can read the official difference on the CPR website, classicplayfields.com. I am the only one in the world who still has screen printed playfields for sale.
starship-fantasy.com. You can call me with any other questions, 602-228-7333.

Hi. I have Addams Gold and I can only lower the volume to level 8. I can increase the volume all the way up but can only lower to 8. Any recommendations? I am a newbie in regards to repairs. TIA

There’s a setting that you need to allow to go below minimum volume override. CFTBL but should be same in TAF. Need to change to yes.

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thank you so much! That took care of it. I have another question, hope you don’t mind. I have Twilight zone (I know this is Addams forum but I thought I would ask) and test report shows “clock is broken”. Clock hands move. I changed the board inside to LED from Casper. What do you recommend? TIA

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As a former TZ owner the clock opto Board has issues

Check the clock test feature

I always considered TZ the Sister of TAF

Both amazing PL designs

I have both machines now (TAF/TZ). Clock is broken. Run clock test. Most likely a faulty Opto. I cant remember if the Casper board has socketed optos up front. In the case of my machine, one of the optos was installed backward. The Optos are keyed for orientation.

One could argue that TZ wouldn’t exist were it not for TAF, or at least it wouldn’t be the “blank check” machine it is. Legend had it the success of TAF meant that Pat Lawlor had free reign to do what he wanted on TZ, which resulted in the mech heavy marvel it is.

I dont think you could argue. This is known. TZ for its time, had the most mechs, most patents, and the deepest rule set of any game. It was also the most over budget game for Bally. Due to costs things were removed, like the third magnet. Apparently there were more optos an switches planned, but also got scrapped due to costs. It's an amazing game. Wait, isn't this a TAF thread?

You should have bought mine for that price. I dont think you are going to find a gold CPR at that price anymore.

Does anyone make a really cool TAF pinball cover?

Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to replace the bookcase frame (not the round disc). Just noticed that mine has got a crack in it, presumably from a flying ball. From the looks of it I'm guessing it attaches from underneath?

Thanks in advance.

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From what I remember, you take the whole round part out and the bookcase unscrews from the base.

It is easy to take it out.

You have to pull the whole assy out and desolder some wires if i remember correctly. I believe the wires from the harness to the upper opto board are the one that need desoldered. Everything to pull unit is plugs. Once you do that its just a couple screws to remove. Remember when you pull the unit out make note if there is any shims between the unit and playfield. Need to put those back from where the come from.

Ugh that does not sound remotely simple. Thanks for the info.

It is not simple but it is doable. If you have to order any parts I'd recommend ordering 2 of whatever you need because shipping will cost more than the part. I've tried saving $$$ by super glue or other methods to fix the part on that bookcase. Never holds up.

Take pictures as you take it apart. Rebuilding is absolutely worth it!!!!

The whole assembly attaches with connectors, no desoldering or soldering needed.

But you’ll definitely want to pull the whole assembly out to replace that piece. It will take time but it isn’t too bad.

I’ve read that you have to desolder the optos because the board is too big to fit through a hole?

It is too big. You can either unsolder the wires from the top opto board or you can remove the wires/pins from the connector on the other end.

Sorry I’m just wrapping up a restore and you guys are absolutely right. I didn’t think about having to remove the opto board. I just cleaned mine, so I didn’t have to do anything other than disconnect.

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Excellent, thanks. I think I have a Molex punch remover somewhere. Those photos make it a lot clearer. I like to know what I'm going to be doing before I start so that's very helpful.

My left ramp diverter motor is making a new loud sound, kind of low tone bear growl when it is moving the diverter. Any common issues with this? Thanks in advance, I not so good at the search function on the board yet, but I tried that first.

Having an issue with the left chair bulb causing bulbs in several other inserts to turn on. Doesn't seem to be a ghosting issue because it is present with an LED or incandescent bulb inserted into the socket. Any help would be much appreciated.

Very Cool restore, I like the lighter green pops that you used and the purple all around. HEP did one with darker green pops that I was considering. Please post pics in machine and lite up when ready.

Need to take better pictures but here is how it turned out. Pics don’t do it justice. It was a really fun project. Time for a break though, three restore projects over the last 6 months is enough!

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What cabinet decals did you use?

I had some strange issues with my right chair led,. Turned out one of the metal legs from it (inside the chair) were touching a leg of the left chair led. Bent the legs apart properly and my issues went away. Maybe you have a similar problem?

I used RADCALs and Mirco playfield as well.

Has anyone found a way to restore the apron aside from the stickers floating around on eBay? I don’t think I like the lighted apron and I figured someone has figured something out by now. This is one of the last things I need to do on my restore.

Anyone have pictures of their Addams Family pinball machine on in a dark room? Mine is pretty dark with LED’s and want to compare. Anyone done any nice mods to brighten up a dark TAF without going the pinstadium route?

...two little measures would be to light up the swamp (e.g. green) and to add a GI lamp under the red plastic in front of the swamp. That leads to a more balanced illumination.

Many (including me) install a couple of spotlights connected to the GI to add some more light to the playfield. I added one on the right slingshot and another to the right of the bookcase. Will check if I have pictures saved somewhere.

This game is way to dark from factory.

I did a lighted back board along with spot lights and added LEDs throughout the machine.

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Yup, I had to get in there one time and to do that, it all has to come apart.

The lighted backboard looks so dang good, I might have to do that!

And I thought TZ had a lot of mods

$12k for a lightly routed tAFG. what do yall think?

No.

Dunno why you’re getting downvoted, but no - $12k for a routed TAFG is excessive.

yeah I passed on it, playfield was alright but the cab had holes in the front and had seen better days. I'd rather have a regular and make the pops green like someone did above.

https://www.pinballlife.com/fluorescent-green-pop-bumper-cap.html

Here is where I got them. So happy with how it turned out.

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Actor Felix Silla, who portrayed Cousin Itt on the 1960s TV series "The Addams Family," died on Friday 16-April-2021. He was 84.

Sorry this is a lazy question.... but if I get the answer it will save more time for playing vs browsing a bit thread/servicing/updating my pins! I did a quick search and most of what I’m finding is not the board replacement but rather the inline fuse kit. I’ve gotten so bad with ordering so many pinball parts I can’t even remember where I ordered them from!

I bought and received the updated slow-burn (I think that’s what it’s called) fuse board for the magnet. It came and doesn’t really have anything with it. I believe it’s a direct board replacement for a board that sits under or around the left flipper. Does this sound about right to get me going prior to raising the playfield?

Thanks!!!

Went to put the new board in and previous owner already installed the same one. That’s always a welcome surprise. . That’s what I get for staying up late on an iPad ordering pinball parts from nowhere near the machines. Lol

Not sure what you got. I have these in my game - https://www.pinballlife.com/fuse-kit-for-the-addams-family-the-power-magnets.html

LTG : )