(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome

By mima

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_7632 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5752 (resized).jpeg
wms_wpc_backbox_assembly.jpg
Screenshot 2024-03-24 at 5.00.20 PM (resized).png
IMG_7617 (resized).jpeg
20240323_132510 (resized).jpg
20240323_132525 (resized).jpg
20240323_173327 (resized).jpg
wednesday (resized).jpg
thing (resized).png
morticia (resized).jpg
lurch (resized).jpg
library (resized).jpg
gomez (resized).jpg
cousin itt (resized).jpg
fester (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 6,565 posts in this topic. You are on page 79 of 132.
#3901 3 years ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Hi all, I picked up a TAF a couple weeks ago and I have a question regarding the playfield protector. I ordered one and it came in but as I was examining the playfield I noticed some transparent material (Mylar?) on the playfield in a couple wear spots. Is this an add on to the original, will putting a playfield protector on over this be ok? I am including a couple pictures to show what I mean. It's fairly subtle/low profile so maybe it would be ok but I have never put on a protector before so I just don't know. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

If you are installing a full playfield Makrolon protector you can remove all of the Mylar.
I would just freeze spray the mylar off and clean up the glue residue with rapid-tac adhesive remover.
Wipe down with naptha and apply a coat of wax.
This would be sufficient to protect the playfield from the protector itself.

Yep just like pinballreno said.

Here's a simple video showing the freeze spray method of removing mylar:

Tho you have to be a bit careful which adhesive remover you use (apparently some can remove the coating or paint from the playfield). Personally, I use the flour-and-naphtha method (rub a light dusting of flour over the remaining adhesive, put on some naphtha (IPA apparently also works but I have and use naphtha), and rub. Basically like this video here

but I wear nitrile gloves, and I use tiny bowls with flour and naphtha - use my "dry" hand to grab a little flour and dust/rub it in, use my "wet" hand and dip my fingers in the naphtha bowl and then rub; repeat until it looks clean, let the naphtha dry and dust on a little flour to see if there are any spots where the adhesive wasn't fully removed. Use a small handheld vac with soft brush end to vacuum up the flour).

#3902 3 years ago
Quoted from MintIndeed:

Yep just like pinballreno said.
Here's a simple video showing the freeze spray method of removing mylar:
Tho you have to be a bit careful which adhesive remover you use (apparently some can remove the coating or paint from the playfield). Personally, I use the flour-and-naphtha method (rub a light dusting of flour over the remaining adhesive, put on some naphtha (IPA apparently also works but I have and use naphtha), and rub. Basically like this video here but I wear nitrile gloves, and I use tiny bowls with flour and naphtha - use my "dry" hand to grab a little flour and dust/rub it in, use my "wet" hand and dip my fingers in the naphtha bowl and then rub; repeat until it looks clean, let the naphtha dry and dust on a little flour to see if there are any spots where the adhesive wasn't fully removed. Use a small handheld vac with soft brush end to vacuum up the flour).

Thats a terrible video.

Done properly there is no pulling, no stressing the clear over inserts.

Its all about temperature control.
Light sprits of spray continuously to keep it very cold etc.

I use rapid-tac adhesive remover.

Its non-toxic and removes mylar adhesive in seconds.

Always works perfectly.

No flour, no mess, smells like oranges.

I just used it to remove old tape off a translite.

It didn't remove the white background like almost everything else does.

#3903 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Done properly there is no pulling, no stressing the clear over inserts.

I've removed two mylars in my time.

One was a Funhouse playfield mylar, using various levels of chemicals until found one strong enough to break down the mylar adheasive and not damage the artwork. Slow, but worked, and easy to control the amount and placement solvent.

Second was a Roadshow playfield using freeze spray method. Hard to tell if temperature is correct, to control the spray, and see if its working. Pulled up the clear over large inserts multiple times.

I would never recommend the freeze spray method, because of the very fact it's not an exact science, you don't know if the glue will freeze approriately, and for the same reason I hand polish ramps instead of flame polish them.

Risk vs reward, I would recommend the slower, safer method.

#3904 3 years ago
Quoted from mjenison:

I've removed two mylars in my time.
One was a Funhouse playfield mylar, using various levels of chemicals until found one strong enough to break down the mylar adheasive and not damage the artwork. Slow, but worked, and easy to control the amount and placement solvent.
Second was a Roadshow playfield using freeze spray method. Hard to tell if temperature is correct, to control the spray, and see if its working. Pulled up the clear over large inserts multiple times.
I would never recommend the freeze spray method, because of the very fact it's not an exact science, you don't know if the glue will freeze approriately, and for the same reason I hand polish ramps instead of flame polish them.
Risk vs reward, I would recommend the slower, safer method.

If your freeze spray method is pulling on the art, then it's not cold enough. I have done about 20 or so via this method and aside for the hassle of removing the leftover adhesive residue, it's a snap and has never once caused damage.

#3905 3 years ago
Quoted from mjenison:

I've removed two mylars in my time.
One was a Funhouse playfield mylar, using various levels of chemicals until found one strong enough to break down the mylar adheasive and not damage the artwork. Slow, but worked, and easy to control the amount and placement solvent.
Second was a Roadshow playfield using freeze spray method. Hard to tell if temperature is correct, to control the spray, and see if its working. Pulled up the clear over large inserts multiple times.
I would never recommend the freeze spray method, because of the very fact it's not an exact science, you don't know if the glue will freeze approriately, and for the same reason I hand polish ramps instead of flame polish them.
Risk vs reward, I would recommend the slower, safer method.

I have done many.

Never pull on the mylar.
It will release if you have the temperature right.

You don't have to pull at all.

The mylar will actually release itself with zero pressure.

I use a plastic razor blade and cut off excess as i go.

Total time, 5 mins.

Done right its a breeze.

But i agree, it does take a "feel" for it.

#3906 3 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

If your freeze spray method is pulling on the art, then it's not cold enough. I have done about 20 or so via this method and aside for the hassle of removing the leftover adhesive residue, it's a snap and has never once caused damage.

For left over adhesive i will only use rapid-tac adhesive remover.

Its glorious.

10 min clean up.

#3907 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

For left over adhesive i will only use rapid-tac adhesive remover.
Its glorious.
10 min clean up.

Good to know, thanks. I've tried various substances with differing results.

#3908 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have done many.
Never pull on the mylar.
It will release if you have the temperature right.
You don't have to pull at all.
The mylar will actually release itself with zero pressure.
I use a plastic razor blade and cut off excess as i go.
Total time, 5 mins.
Done right its a breeze.
But i agree, it does take a "feel" for it.

100%! That's also a good way to tell if you have the right amount of cold or need more. If it doesn't separate with no pressure, needs more cold.

#3909 3 years ago

In TAF what lights the pop bumpers?

#3910 3 years ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

In TAF what lights the pop bumpers?

The circuit is called general illumination or GI. Are the bulbs blown?

#3911 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The circuit is called general illumination or GI. Are the bulbs blown?

They're actually controlled lights. I forget when they light, though.

#3912 3 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

They're actually controlled lights. I forget when they light, though.

Isn't it hitting the GRAVE targets? I can't remember, and it's on the tip of my flipper. Or maybe shots up the ramp?

#3913 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Isn't it hitting the GRAVE targets?

Yup, GRAVE targets, light them solid and then the second time makes them blink. I read that and thought they were asking about the sling lamps. - I need sleep!

#3914 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yup, GRAVE targets, light them solid and then the second time makes them blink.

One of the most fun gameplay strategies too. Rack up the grave score after lighting the pops, and nail the swamp shot either on your own, or with the help of thing. It doesn't take much to nail some 5x swamp shots with a grave bonus of 2,000,000 or more. That's like making a free jackpot shot all while being able to go for other higher scoring potentials at the same time.

#3915 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Isn't it hitting the GRAVE targets?

Ok based upon everyone's answers I took the glass off to check. It is a combination of grave targets and both ramp shots. To light all five pops you have to hit the grave targets several times and both of the ramps. Likewise to make them all flash it takes a combination of the grave targets and the 2 ramps.

#3916 3 years ago

Hi! I haven't found an existing Gomez mod, so i made one for my pinball.
Here a small preview.
I decided to place Gomez in the "train area", because it is the one that characterizes it the most.
If someone interested, its available on my pinside shop.
thanks

IMG_20200919_114431 (resized).jpgIMG_20200919_114431 (resized).jpgIMG_20200919_114420 (resized).jpgIMG_20200919_114420 (resized).jpggomez (resized).jpggomez (resized).jpg
#3917 3 years ago

Printed a library too!
File available for free on thingiverse

librearia1 (resized).jpglibrearia1 (resized).jpglibreria (resized).jpglibreria (resized).jpglibreria2 (resized).jpglibreria2 (resized).jpglibreria3 (resized).jpglibreria3 (resized).jpg
#3918 3 years ago

That looks great.

That said, I think a train is more appropriate for the Gomez location, as that is specifically the train shot.

I wish someone would come up with something for the THING ramp lights. I've got the GREED book mod for the vault shot, but the THING lamps just look.. well, like zero thought was put into them.

#3920 3 years ago

What were the original color flipper bats, flipper rubbers, and post/slingshot rubbers?

Thanks!!

#3921 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

What were the original color flipper bats, flipper rubbers, and post/slingshot rubbers?

Looking at the original flyer for the game, yellow bats with red rubber. Post and slingshots used white rings.

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=4096&zoom=1

#3923 3 years ago

I have a switch 58 right ramp exit that I can’t seem to fix. I have done the following.
Replaced switch and diode 4004
Voltage when booting up from the connection under the playing field reads around 3.5V
All fuses on the head board were tested working
Reseated J208 and J206 from CPU board
WPC CPU Board is new and from March 2020
Switch on test says open
When checking the switch it works perfectly, but the check switch 58 comes up after an hour of play.

#3924 3 years ago
Quoted from silverbearss:

I have a switch 58 right ramp exit that I can’t seem to fix. I have done the following.
Replaced switch and diode 4004
Voltage when booting up from the connection under the playing field reads around 3.5V
All fuses on the head board were tested working
Reseated J208 and J206 from CPU board
WPC CPU Board is new and from March 2020
Switch on test says open
When checking the switch it works perfectly, but the check switch 58 comes up after an hour of play.

I'll take a shot at this...did you go into switch test mode and use a ball to test the switch? You say it says open, even after actuating the switch (with a ball not your finger)? Measuring voltage doesn't really work to diagnose the switch matrix (logic probe better). did you orient the diode correctly on the switch when you replaced it? correct wires on the correct post? Picture? you say the switch works perfectly, but in what way?

#3925 3 years ago

A few questions/opinions for you fellow Addams Family owners:

Does anyone know the part number for the lamp sockets (#555) that are in the backbox? I cant seem to find these anywhere.

I was thinking about going LED on this one. Has anyone just purchased the standard Comet LED full kit and was happy with it?

I need speakers! Is this game worth the extra cash (sound wise) for the premium stuff or just stock replacements good enough?

Thanks
Rob

#3926 3 years ago
Quoted from MrCleanHead:

A few questions/opinions for you fellow Addams Family owners:
Does anyone know the part number for the lamp sockets (#555) that are in the backbox? I cant seem to find these anywhere.
I was thinking about going LED on this one. Has anyone just purchased the standard Comet LED full kit and was happy with it?
I need speakers! Is this game worth the extra cash (sound wise) for the premium stuff or just stock replacements good enough?
Thanks
Rob

Yes, the comet kit was the right choice on this game. Easy to do, love the additional lighting from the spots. Highly recommend.

#3927 3 years ago
Quoted from MrCleanHead:

A few questions/opinions for you fellow Addams Family owners:
Does anyone know the part number for the lamp sockets (#555) that are in the backbox? I cant seem to find these anywhere.
I was thinking about going LED on this one. Has anyone just purchased the standard Comet LED full kit and was happy with it?
I need speakers! Is this game worth the extra cash (sound wise) for the premium stuff or just stock replacements good enough?
Thanks
Rob

I don’t think those are available anywhere

#3928 3 years ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I don’t think those are available anywhere

Just do the whole thing with sunlight frosted 2smd.

Change a couple here and there if wanted

#3929 3 years ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I don’t think those are available anywhere

That seems to be the case. I asked marco and they said the same thing. Mine work but something must have got in there at one time and several sockets straight down the middle have heavy corrosion on them. I will pull them and try and clean them up before I LED it.

#3930 3 years ago

I added BriteRings to the Pop Bumper Caps. These glue to the bottom of the caps. The bottom LEDs light up that area of the playfield. Since you have to move the ramp to install several of them if you choose to do it make sure you use lots of drops of super glue.

AF Playfield New Popbumper Lights01_2016x3021 (resized).jpgAF Playfield New Popbumper Lights01_2016x3021 (resized).jpgAF Playfield New Popbumper Lights02_2016x3021 (resized).jpgAF Playfield New Popbumper Lights02_2016x3021 (resized).jpg
#3931 3 years ago

Hi all, just got a ColorDMD and had the L5 rom. ColorDMD needs L7 or Gold. I wouldbhave preferred L7, but I had a set of gold roms, put them in, works great. However got a Sound Board U15 CKSUM ERROR in the Test Report. All sounds and music are fine. Any idea what would cause that?

I guess I should add that when I added the Gold roms, it was just U6 and U18. So I didn’t change U15. Maybe it was a match to L5 and that’s causing the issue with the two that I swapped out?

#3932 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

I'll take a shot at this...did you go into switch test mode and use a ball to test the switch? You say it says open, even after actuating the switch (with a ball not your finger)? Measuring voltage doesn't really work to diagnose the switch matrix (logic probe better). did you orient the diode correctly on the switch when you replaced it? correct wires on the correct post? Picture? you say the switch works perfectly, but in what way?

Thank you for the reply. Turns out I had the diode upside down Funny thing is I didn't know they had different sides. Also, I realized you need a ball to hit the switch vs using a finger.

20200926_205638 (resized).jpg20200926_205638 (resized).jpg

#3934 3 years ago

Trying to decide what mods I can do to make her look better.

05E2D44D-CD5E-4794-9514-07268CD7E14F (resized).jpeg05E2D44D-CD5E-4794-9514-07268CD7E14F (resized).jpeg
#3935 3 years ago

More of a generic pinball question, but happening on my TAF, so will post here. My right flipper hold test is failing. The EOS switch works just fine, and I’m able to cradle the ball no issue on this flipper.

The flipper hold test works fine on all other flippers. The flipper power test works on the right flipper, just not flipper hold. Is that a bad coil?

If the EOS switch works fine, wouldn’t the machine logic be telling the right flipper to use the low power mode?

Thanks for any help!

Thanks!

#3936 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

My right flipper hold test is failing.

It is not unusual that flipper will not move during hold test and maybe just slightly wiggle. I imagine if you gave it a nudge with your finger, it would move.

#3937 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Trying to decide what mods I can do to make her look better.
[quoted image]

Give the front edge of your backbox a new coat of black paint. Not a mod, but will make it look better.

#3938 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Trying to decide what mods I can do to make her look better.
[quoted image]

Sometimes they look better just left alone. While the rose shooter knob looks cute, it doesn't seem very practical in use.

#3939 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Trying to decide what mods I can do to make her look better.
[quoted image]

LEDOCD?
GIOCD?

Enable dimming in the service menu?

#3940 3 years ago

Question. I am replacing the ramp and there seems to be a mix of machine screws with self locking nuts and sheet metal(pointed) screws. Mostly sheet metal screws. But there is no rhyme or reason that I can see. For example there will be two screws directly next to or across from each other holding the same thing, and they will be different. Can anyone tell me what the proper screws are? I thought maybe the switches and protectors should have machine screws with nuts? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

#3941 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Trying to decide what mods I can do to make her look better.
[quoted image]

Check my shop on pinside. You can improve adding Fester, Gomez, Lurch/Library, Bear, Thing's sticker

#3942 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

It is not unusual that flipper will not move during hold test and maybe just slightly wiggle. I imagine if you gave it a nudge with your finger, it would move.

This was the issue, thanks you!,

#3943 3 years ago

Several pages back I covered how to make graphics and provided a PDF for thing decals. I decided after many months to finally give thing a new house. My oem thing box is pretty rough shape so I bought one off the dude here on pinside who makes them. It comes in red and I wanted to black it out. I learned a lesson. This material cannot withstand heat for very long and it starts to melt and distort. Imagine to my horror going out to rattle can another coat and find this occurred. After many dates with the hair dryer and the edge of the wall I got it back to square. I attempted to install my graphics and as an FYI to those who might use them the top decal and side decals are a little less than 1/16" too long. Anyway the new box being made out of printed platsic is rough. Consider sanding down smooth (I didn't).
After the decals are installed use a hair dryer to make em really stick. Keep the heat moving it doesn't take much to screw em up. And use a cloth to press into with your finger and press down and rub. Finally, take a permanent black marker and go around the edges of the decals.

20201003_142932 (resized).jpg20201003_142932 (resized).jpg20201003_142952 (resized).jpg20201003_142952 (resized).jpg20201003_145824 (resized).jpg20201003_145824 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#3945 3 years ago

Is there an easy way to remove the Thing box from the top of the playfield? Wanting to add new graphics. Looks like there are two tabs to screw down, but wondering if they are easy to reach.

Thanks!

#3946 3 years ago

Okay Addams Group

Need your help

This is my 5th Addams I’ve owned since 2004 and it’s a childhood favorite of mine

Now with that there comes that moment when I walk away from it and sell it .. move to the next pin .. you know that moment

THEN months - years later I “re discover” the wow factor of The Addams Family from either a show game played or a buddy has one Etc

and I’m reborn hunting down yet another Addams and again the price value has again gone up

There getting harder to find as your all aware and don’t want to hunt another down next year at yet again a price increase

Any ideas to help it’s keeper appeal ??
Already have her pretty cut throat on the settings and what not

Being honest and want to keep her bolted down but fear I’ll stop wanting the play

I have seen new options out there

Shaker Motor and a new sound board

Are these really worthy or just a small notch in the belt of wow appeal

Color Dmd in Addams really doesn’t seem needed to me anyways, as it was the beginning of that Pixel technology and the clips are nothing compared to today

And yes that shooter rod I have owned over the years and reinstall on every joining Addams

Any advice from owners and fans of a true Pat Lawlor Classic
04BD2E1F-B4E9-4C1C-851D-65202A689AEA (resized).jpeg04BD2E1F-B4E9-4C1C-851D-65202A689AEA (resized).jpegEC86F547-393C-40BF-976D-35EE49B487A8 (resized).jpegEC86F547-393C-40BF-976D-35EE49B487A8 (resized).jpeg

#3948 3 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Okay Addams Group
Need your help
This is my 5th Addams I’ve owned since 2004 and it’s a childhood favorite of mine
Now with that there comes that moment when I walk away from it and sell it .. move to the next pin .. you know that moment
THEN months - years later I “re discover” the wow factor of The Addams Family from either a show game played or a buddy has one Etc
and I’m reborn hunting down yet another Addams and again the price value has again gone up
There getting harder to find as your all aware and don’t want to hunt another down next year at yet again a price increase
Any ideas to help it’s keeper appeal ??
Already have her pretty cut throat on the settings and what not
Being honest and want to keep her bolted down but fear I’ll stop wanting the play
I have seen new options out there
Shaker Motor and a new sound board
Are these really worthy or just a small notch in the belt of wow appeal
Color Dmd in Addams really doesn’t seem needed to me anyways, as it was the beginning of that Pixel technology and the clips are nothing compared to today
And yes that shooter rod I have owned over the years and reinstall on every joining Addams
Any advice from owners and fans of a true Pat Lawlor Classic
[quoted image][quoted image]

Haha - If this is your FIFTH Addams, I don't think anyone else can tell you what is necessary to keep it "bolted down". I think the answer is it isn't a keeper for you. However, if you do keep it, get the colordmd. JMHO

#3949 3 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Okay Addams Group
Need your help
This is my 5th Addams I’ve owned since 2004 and it’s a childhood favorite of mine
Now with that there comes that moment when I walk away from it and sell it .. move to the next pin .. you know that moment
THEN months - years later I “re discover” the wow factor of The Addams Family from either a show game played or a buddy has one Etc
and I’m reborn hunting down yet another Addams and again the price value has again gone up
There getting harder to find as your all aware and don’t want to hunt another down next year at yet again a price increase
Any ideas to help it’s keeper appeal ??
Already have her pretty cut throat on the settings and what not
Being honest and want to keep her bolted down but fear I’ll stop wanting the play
I have seen new options out there
Shaker Motor and a new sound board
Are these really worthy or just a small notch in the belt of wow appeal
Color Dmd in Addams really doesn’t seem needed to me anyways, as it was the beginning of that Pixel technology and the clips are nothing compared to today
And yes that shooter rod I have owned over the years and reinstall on every joining Addams
Any advice from owners and fans of a true Pat Lawlor Classic
[quoted image][quoted image]

Put condoms over those bare LEDS.

Get the colorDMD LED version.

Get the pinsound and the motion control shaker. Get a few different sound mixes going to change it up once in awhile, or make a custom mix.

Replace the speakers with better ones, its a slightly better sound.

#3950 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Haha - If this is your FIFTH Addams, I don't think anyone else can tell you what is necessary to keep it "bolted down". I think the answer is it isn't a keeper for you. However, if you do keep it, get the colordmd. JMHO

It was usually the case if want something newer what can I replace in the lineup easily enough and Addams was always that game

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 15.00
Pinball Machine
Uberlaser
Pinball Machine
$ 24.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
Various novelties
$ 79.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Arcade Upkeep
Under cabinet
$ 24.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
Various novelties
$ 27.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 31.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
From: $ 1.00
Boards
Slap Save Creations
Boards
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 109.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
$ 58.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 29.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
Decorations
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
Other
$ 16.00
Boards
Lermods
Boards
$ 25.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Decals
$ 39.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
Protection
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Red Oak, TX
16,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Dawsonville, GA
$ 10.00
Playfield - Other
Loop Combo Pinball
Other
11,695
Machine - For Sale
Livermore, CA
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 199.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
$ 41.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
From: $ 159.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
There are 6,565 posts in this topic. You are on page 79 of 132.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-the-addams-family-club-tafmembers-fans-welcome/page/79?hl=ktuhde and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.