(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

6 years ago



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  • 3,915 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by OTRChief
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There are 3915 posts in this topic. You are on page 79 of 79.
#3901 5 days ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Hi all, I picked up a TAF a couple weeks ago and I have a question regarding the playfield protector. I ordered one and it came in but as I was examining the playfield I noticed some transparent material (Mylar?) on the playfield in a couple wear spots. Is this an add on to the original, will putting a playfield protector on over this be ok? I am including a couple pictures to show what I mean. It's fairly subtle/low profile so maybe it would be ok but I have never put on a protector before so I just don't know. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

If you are installing a full playfield Makrolon protector you can remove all of the Mylar.
I would just freeze spray the mylar off and clean up the glue residue with rapid-tac adhesive remover.
Wipe down with naptha and apply a coat of wax.
This would be sufficient to protect the playfield from the protector itself.

Yep just like pinballreno said.

Here's a simple video showing the freeze spray method of removing mylar:

Tho you have to be a bit careful which adhesive remover you use (apparently some can remove the coating or paint from the playfield). Personally, I use the flour-and-naphtha method (rub a light dusting of flour over the remaining adhesive, put on some naphtha (IPA apparently also works but I have and use naphtha), and rub. Basically like this video here

but I wear nitrile gloves, and I use tiny bowls with flour and naphtha - use my "dry" hand to grab a little flour and dust/rub it in, use my "wet" hand and dip my fingers in the naphtha bowl and then rub; repeat until it looks clean, let the naphtha dry and dust on a little flour to see if there are any spots where the adhesive wasn't fully removed. Use a small handheld vac with soft brush end to vacuum up the flour).

#3902 4 days ago
Quoted from MintIndeed:

Yep just like pinballreno said.
Here's a simple video showing the freeze spray method of removing mylar:
Tho you have to be a bit careful which adhesive remover you use (apparently some can remove the coating or paint from the playfield). Personally, I use the flour-and-naphtha method (rub a light dusting of flour over the remaining adhesive, put on some naphtha (IPA apparently also works but I have and use naphtha), and rub. Basically like this video here but I wear nitrile gloves, and I use tiny bowls with flour and naphtha - use my "dry" hand to grab a little flour and dust/rub it in, use my "wet" hand and dip my fingers in the naphtha bowl and then rub; repeat until it looks clean, let the naphtha dry and dust on a little flour to see if there are any spots where the adhesive wasn't fully removed. Use a small handheld vac with soft brush end to vacuum up the flour).

Thats a terrible video.

Done properly there is no pulling, no stressing the clear over inserts.

Its all about temperature control.
Light sprits of spray continuously to keep it very cold etc.

I use rapid-tac adhesive remover.

Its non-toxic and removes mylar adhesive in seconds.

Always works perfectly.

No flour, no mess, smells like oranges.

I just used it to remove old tape off a translite.

It didn't remove the white background like almost everything else does.

#3903 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Done properly there is no pulling, no stressing the clear over inserts.

I've removed two mylars in my time.

One was a Funhouse playfield mylar, using various levels of chemicals until found one strong enough to break down the mylar adheasive and not damage the artwork. Slow, but worked, and easy to control the amount and placement solvent.

Second was a Roadshow playfield using freeze spray method. Hard to tell if temperature is correct, to control the spray, and see if its working. Pulled up the clear over large inserts multiple times.

I would never recommend the freeze spray method, because of the very fact it's not an exact science, you don't know if the glue will freeze approriately, and for the same reason I hand polish ramps instead of flame polish them.

Risk vs reward, I would recommend the slower, safer method.

#3904 4 days ago
Quoted from mjenison:

I've removed two mylars in my time.
One was a Funhouse playfield mylar, using various levels of chemicals until found one strong enough to break down the mylar adheasive and not damage the artwork. Slow, but worked, and easy to control the amount and placement solvent.
Second was a Roadshow playfield using freeze spray method. Hard to tell if temperature is correct, to control the spray, and see if its working. Pulled up the clear over large inserts multiple times.
I would never recommend the freeze spray method, because of the very fact it's not an exact science, you don't know if the glue will freeze approriately, and for the same reason I hand polish ramps instead of flame polish them.
Risk vs reward, I would recommend the slower, safer method.

If your freeze spray method is pulling on the art, then it's not cold enough. I have done about 20 or so via this method and aside for the hassle of removing the leftover adhesive residue, it's a snap and has never once caused damage.

#3905 3 days ago
Quoted from mjenison:

I've removed two mylars in my time.
One was a Funhouse playfield mylar, using various levels of chemicals until found one strong enough to break down the mylar adheasive and not damage the artwork. Slow, but worked, and easy to control the amount and placement solvent.
Second was a Roadshow playfield using freeze spray method. Hard to tell if temperature is correct, to control the spray, and see if its working. Pulled up the clear over large inserts multiple times.
I would never recommend the freeze spray method, because of the very fact it's not an exact science, you don't know if the glue will freeze approriately, and for the same reason I hand polish ramps instead of flame polish them.
Risk vs reward, I would recommend the slower, safer method.

I have done many.

Never pull on the mylar.
It will release if you have the temperature right.

You don't have to pull at all.

The mylar will actually release itself with zero pressure.

I use a plastic razor blade and cut off excess as i go.

Total time, 5 mins.

Done right its a breeze.

But i agree, it does take a "feel" for it.

#3906 3 days ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

If your freeze spray method is pulling on the art, then it's not cold enough. I have done about 20 or so via this method and aside for the hassle of removing the leftover adhesive residue, it's a snap and has never once caused damage.

For left over adhesive i will only use rapid-tac adhesive remover.

Its glorious.

10 min clean up.

#3907 3 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

For left over adhesive i will only use rapid-tac adhesive remover.
Its glorious.
10 min clean up.

Good to know, thanks. I've tried various substances with differing results.

#3908 2 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have done many.
Never pull on the mylar.
It will release if you have the temperature right.
You don't have to pull at all.
The mylar will actually release itself with zero pressure.
I use a plastic razor blade and cut off excess as i go.
Total time, 5 mins.
Done right its a breeze.
But i agree, it does take a "feel" for it.

100%! That's also a good way to tell if you have the right amount of cold or need more. If it doesn't separate with no pressure, needs more cold.

#3909 1 day ago

In TAF what lights the pop bumpers?

#3910 1 day ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

In TAF what lights the pop bumpers?

The circuit is called general illumination or GI. Are the bulbs blown?

#3911 1 day ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The circuit is called general illumination or GI. Are the bulbs blown?

They're actually controlled lights. I forget when they light, though.

#3912 1 day ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

They're actually controlled lights. I forget when they light, though.

Isn't it hitting the GRAVE targets? I can't remember, and it's on the tip of my flipper. Or maybe shots up the ramp?

#3913 1 day ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Isn't it hitting the GRAVE targets?

Yup, GRAVE targets, light them solid and then the second time makes them blink. I read that and thought they were asking about the sling lamps. - I need sleep!

#3914 1 day ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yup, GRAVE targets, light them solid and then the second time makes them blink.

One of the most fun gameplay strategies too. Rack up the grave score after lighting the pops, and nail the swamp shot either on your own, or with the help of thing. It doesn't take much to nail some 5x swamp shots with a grave bonus of 2,000,000 or more. That's like making a free jackpot shot all while being able to go for other higher scoring potentials at the same time.

#3915 1 day ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Isn't it hitting the GRAVE targets?

Ok based upon everyone's answers I took the glass off to check. It is a combination of grave targets and both ramp shots. To light all five pops you have to hit the grave targets several times and both of the ramps. Likewise to make them all flash it takes a combination of the grave targets and the 2 ramps.

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