I don't understand why the secrecy. For anyone interested here's the info.
https://drpinball.co.uk/pages/dmd-extender

Double post

A friend just got a TAF and it had very early software in it, wanting to upgrade it for him, but there are so many versions, hoping to get a consensus opinion on which is the preferred revision. Also curious if you should run the Gold software in a standard game, and if so which version of that is preferred??

What secrecy? There is no secrecy. i disclosed that it was drpinball.co.uk in my post.

Made a custom anti-dust cover for my TOM and Addams. 3D printed magnets holder to fix on the pinball side rails.
Very quick to place and take off. High quality print on PVC banner.

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Some pictures of my modded addams. Added Gomez and 2 spotlights to light cemetery area.

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I was having a few issues with my bookcase optos not registering so I decided to just replace the opto boards because the originals had some hacks on them. Now they don’t work at all. I’ve checked all the other optos in the game and they register good. All the switches in the matrix work too. Swapped out another bookcase asemblu and it worked. Swapped the unworking one into another game and still doesn’t work. I’ve checked continuity and everything is fine. I also swapped out a few 7-opto boards to see if it was a board problem. Still no change. I’m stumped here

I don't have experience with that issue, but it sounds like the hacks on the original opto board were to correspond with some changes on the bookcase optos. Since you have 2 of them, compare the wiring and I expect you will find some differences in the non working bookcase. (or maybe incorrect parts)

After a few nights of work, I finally figure out that it’s a bad replacement bookcase opto board. Put the original back in and it kinda worked. I guess I’ll just get the parts to rebuild it, and see what I need to do with this new one.

I finished the top side cleaning of the game, and now I’ll start on the underside. The only thing I need to figure out now is why the chair and swamp kick out are weak. Hopefully a good cleaning will help

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The only thing I need to figure out now is why the chair and swamp kick out are weak. Hopefully a good cleaning will help

Probably dust in the coil sleeve, worn coil stop or a mushroomed metal plunger...or all three combined Check those things and they should be stronger again.

If your TAF is anything like mine "was" ..... everything was worn out. Weak everything. I rebuilt everything minus thing and it's a snappy guy again.
Make sure you have a pitch of at least 7.2 degrees (it'll help mitigate potential feed issues from Thing to swamp) and ball hang ups behind the book case.
Coil sleeve kit
Coil stops
Plungers
rubber coil stops
Full armatures for sling shots
Pop bumpers - everything minus pop caps. (see manual for parts break down)

What screen did you use?

I can't tell you... it's a secret. JK I am told that the screen is a 4.3 inch mini LCD screen from a car reversing system. The mod creator (drpinball.co.uk) provided everything in the kit.

Hi all.

I am trying to get an understanding of how the chair, vault and swamp holes are lit by LEDs.

Can't imagine an LED bulb is seated inside the scoop as the ball would break it wouldn't it?

Does anyone have a picture of or could explain what these mods look like and how they are fitted as I am interested in building my own

Thanks

The LEDs sit in the corner of the rectangular scoop. Because the ball is round it won‘t touch the LEDs.

LEDs do not have to be in scoop. They are mounted to the bottom of the play field and aimed into an opening in the holes/scoops.

This.

If it’s done properly, at least in the case of the chair and swamp, the metal scoop is removed and a regular bulb holder is screwed onto the bottom of the playfield, pointing towards the hole. When the scoop is refitted the light shines from that area, without you being able to see the bulb.

The wires usually exit to the side of the scoop, well clear of where the ball goes.

On some of the holes - the THING ramp and vault - you can’t easily do this so you have to shine the bulb through the gap in the metal.

I remember the very first LED mod I bought. I remember opening the envelope and shook my head at my self in disgust. Bottom line most LED mods are grossly overpriced and aimed at those too lazy to solder a couple strands of wire onto a 555 pinch lamp (or LED strip) and solder a couple alligator clips on the other end.

I do my lightning mods myself. Mods I've bought had their alligator clips removed instantly, I really don't like/trust clips when it's so easy to just solder the cables instead. Clips might fall off and/or shorting stuff due to being metal.

Thanks guys for the LED advice. Next question I have is about cleaning and removing scratches from playfield.

I only have Novus 3 and I heard it's really too abrasive and can scratch more. I am a keen car detailer and have a lot of Meguirs Ultimate Compound, Swirl Remover or light polishes.

Question - would these be better and safe to use on the playfield to remove scratches or should I only be using Novus 2?

Thanks

Novus 3 is helpful on an ill maintained playfields with super ground in dirt/filth. But used on focused spots only like shooter lanes it's helpful to clean up. Novus 2 for removing plastic scratches and/or ball swirls. After that put all Novus products away and use something caranuba wax based.

I just created these Addams Family cards for tommyc 's machine we are working on and thought I'd share. If you'd like me to make you a pair too, they are printed on cardstock, laminated and hand cut. $7.50 including the stamp.

Here's the link to my pinside shop:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1256-upkick-pinball/04008-addams-family-apron-cards-

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Found a few typos. Can I keep them?

Look great just bought a pair!

I’m looking for a full set of plastics, I’ve found them on a few sites but can’t tell if there is any difference in quality. Any positives or critiques about any of the plastics sets?

Help. I took my bookcase off and the plastic shaft that hold the bookcase on. Part number 02-4418, just disintegrated. I am in UK and can't seem to find a replacement. Any ideas where I can find one? Thanks

Hey Carl - have you tried pinball heaven!?
Www.pinball.co.uk- Phil is away until Monday

Or Andy at Pinball Maina
Www.pinpart.co.uk

You mean this

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Thanks for the help bit what I need is the shaft that holds the bookcase onto the mechanism. You screw the bookcase into the shaft and then the shaft goes into this white thing lol

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Sorry..

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Would someone be so kind as to give me the dimension of the start button location. I have a MM cabinet and Im wondering if the button is in the same spot. It looks close.

This work?
Measured from top on the outside edge of plywood since it's angle cut.
Just noticed my start label is crooked.lol

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Perfect. Not good news though, looks like i’ll have to fill the hole and drill a new one.

Macros is out of stock of the 2-4418 shaft for the TAF bookcase. Has anyone got any ideas of a solution to attach the bookcase to the lower assembly that works and provides the stability needed?

Go to the Home depot and buy some rod stock and make one.

Is the 021448-1 longer..? if it is, could cut it to right length

Finally yesterday I toured the mansion twice in one game-reading/understanding the rules makes thing easier

If your primary goal is to tour the mansion the rules arent important. You can shoot the bear ramp and then fester hole. Wash rinse repeat.

yea, you are right. Seems i focused too much on Multiball, finishing the modes and used the small thing flipper too much instead of shooting the bear ramp instead...

Is that the way one would play TAF in a tournament - just keep relighting the next mode to get to "Tour the Mansion" as quickly and as many times as possible ?

If you are installing a full playfield Makrolon protector you can remove all of the Mylar.

I would just freeze spray the mylar off and clean up the glue residue with rapid-tac adhesive remover.

Wipe down with naptha and apply a coat of wax.

This would be sufficient to protect the playfield from the protector itself.

I started to restore all The Addams Family Pinball Artworks. The idea is to do a very exahustive work with all and then do a modification about colours.

I have only a doubt, if pinball plastics can be cut at same time that they are viniled. I have to find out in my country.

I look for a results like original stock and I will rebuild hidden parts of this set.

Let´s go with plastics!

I think I compiled all pinball plastics
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For example: because I want a set like stock, I will do 2 pair of slighshoot plastics.

Greetings!

All "The Addams Family Pinball Plastics" (BALLY) in restoration by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
https://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/The%20Addams%20Family%20Pinball%20Plastics.%20In%20restoration%20Mikonos2.jpg

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Are you making these out of pet-g? Originals are not very durable.

I think the hard part is accurate colors that look right with the lights shining thru.

Original plastics are policarbonates. I will reproduced them in methacrylate. It is a better plastic.

I think I´m working in the best set os plastics: I´m fixing some painted and serigraphic errors, I´m working in bleedings, I´m recentring all die cut shapes, I´m getting an homegeneous colours through all pieces, etc.

I´m working all pinball: Exterior Decals, Topper, Playfield, plastics, and more.

Greetings

I'm wondering about copyright issues here. I like what you're doing, but have you considered making an alternative set? I guess for a lack of better term a more "original" spooky themed set? Everything done in primary black with colored image on top? Like the lower ball guide plastics done in a purple, green and black? And instead of the plain colored plastics doing this in primary black with your own images? I'm just spit balling ideas here but why reinvent the wheel when you can come up with something so much better. The Addams plastic artwork IMHO are really plain.

Cleaning out my vat of extra pin stuff and found a Pin-Mods LED Thing board if anyone is interested. $20 plus shipping first class should be about $3-$4.

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